Rodinal 1:25 vs 1:50 ??
LAWRENCE AKUTAGAWA
Kathy Hand wrote in message <354b65af...@news.earthlink.net>...
>
>what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
>of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ??
As I understand, 1:50 yields more compensating action on the part of the
developer. The developer next to the highlights exhaust quickly while the
developer next to the shadows keep working.
The downside is longer developing times. On the other hand, a miscue of 10 sec
is a whole less significant when your development time is something like 11 min
than when it is around 5 min.
Kathy Hand
forgive me if this has been asked a million times already.
what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it
matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a
Holga.)
thanks in advance.
Kathy Hand
[do not use REPLY TO - my email address is my name, all one word, all
lowercase, followed by @ and then earthlink.net.]
steven T koontz
> >of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ??
>
> developer. The developer next to the highlights exhaust quickly while the
> developer next to the shadows keep working.
>
>
the highlights?
--
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sko...@mindspring.com
John Rogers
Kathy Hand asks:
> forgive me if this has been asked a million times already.
>
> what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
> of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it
> matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a
> Holga.)
>
> thanks in advance.
>
> Kathy Hand
>
Hi Kathy,
For the record, both Agfa and Ilford recommend against using Rodinal 50:1
with Ilford HP5+ -- esssentially the same film sold by Freestyle as
Arista Pro 400 -- so you might take that into account in making your
decision.
On the other hand, You may wish to experiment. As often is said in this
news group, YMMV --your mileage may vary.
Dilutions tend to give, in addition to longer development times, higher
acutance, the appearance of sharpness, and bring outshadow detail while
suppressing blocked highlights from overexposure.
It works this way.
Using high diluted developer in combination with little agitation means
that where the developer is in contact with heavily exposed areas of the
negative (highlights), it exhausts itself quickly and underdevelops those
areas. In less exposed areas of the negative (shadows), it keeps on
working. This means highlights get less development while shadow areas
get more. The compensation effect.
Along borders between lighter and more heavily exposured areas of the
negative, the some of the less exhausted developer in contact with more
lightly exposed portions of the negative tends to work along the edges of
the adjacent more heavily exposed areas, creating a slightly more
developed border around. The edge effect. To the eye this creates the
impression of stronger separations between dark and light areas in the
final print, almost like pencil outlines in a drawing.
Highly diluted development can be tricky. There is a fine line between
too much and too little agitation. With too little you end up with flat
negatives. With too much you lose the compensation and edge effects.
For the record I have had super results with Rodinal 100:1 and Kodak
Tri-X, another 400 film.
I have not had such outstanding results using Rodinal 100:1 and Ilford
FP4+, and have not tried with Rodinal 100:1 or 50:1 with HP5+.
John Rogers
-- Always carry a loaded camera
Michael Liczbanski
John Rogers wrote in message ...
>
>>For the record I have had super results with Rodinal 100:1 and Kodak
>>Tri-X, another 400 film.
Could you share your experiences (times, temperatures...?)
I did some tests with Rodinal (actually, the East German version of it
called R09) 1:200 on old Agfa film (ISOPAN F) a long time ago. This
dilution is not practical (developing times are loooong, and the working
solution oxidizes of course) and the results weren't spectacular in terms of
high accutance, but this process produced a very (and I mean VERY...) flat
negative which was the objective of this exercise. (Actually, I was trying
to recreate a technique used by someone else in photographing diffusion of
fluids: a drop of a very dark ink in a glass tank filled with slightly
milky water, photographed with a 13x18cm view camera.)
Michael
John Rogers
Michael Liczbanski <removethis....@email.msn.com> wrote:
> John Rogers wrote in message ...
> >
>
> >>For the record I have had super results with Rodinal 100:1 and Kodak
> >>Tri-X, another 400 film.
>
>
> Could you share your experiences (times, temperatures...?)
>
My first experiment was just to dump a roll of 35mm Tri-X in a small tank
of Rodinal 100:1 and let it sit virtually without agitation for 65
minutes. The negatives were way overdeveloped and more than a tad on the
contrasty side. But after adjusting for contrast and exposure, they
printed beautifully. Gorgeous tones and detail, almost a luminous
quality.
I continued to experiment and have now prtty much standardized on 35
minutes in a small tank with two inversions every five minutes. These
negatives are less dense and less contrasty and thus easier to print and
have almost but not quite the same luminous quality that the earlier
negs.
I know some other folks who prefer a shorter development around 20
minutes with agitationevery two or three minutes and they get good
results too. But I believe there is less edge effect. With 100:1
dilution there is a lot of latitude for experimentation.
I now Tri-X and Rodinal is supposed to be a poor combination, because of
grain, I have not found in so, perhaps because most of my shooting is for
newspapers and magazines and I seldom make prints larger than 8x10.
I also have tried FP4+ extensively in 100:1 Rodinal, but even when I let
it cook for 45 to 60 minutes the negatives are flatter and do not have
the sparkle and tonal range of Tri-X. I like FP4+ a lot and shoot it a
lot as an all around film. I am beginning to suspect it may work better
with a 75:1 or 50:1 dilution rather than a more extreme 100:1.
All tempertures at 68-70 degrees, BTW.
> I did some tests with Rodinal (actually, the East German version of it
> called R09) 1:200 on old Agfa film (ISOPAN F) a long time ago. This
> dilution is not practical (developing times are loooong, and the
working
> solution oxidizes of course) and the results weren't spectacular in
terms of
> high accutance, but this process produced a very (and I mean VERY...)
flat
> negative which was the objective of this exercise. (Actually, I was
trying
> to recreate a technique used by someone else in photographing diffusion
of
> fluids: a drop of a very dark ink in a glass tank filled with slightly
> milky water, photographed with a 13x18cm view camera.)
>
> Michael
>
>
John Rogers
-----------------------------------------------------------------
John N. Rogers Columbia Communications
Message sent: 04/22/98 Time: 19:35:12 EDT
Email: jnro...@erols.com Phone: 410--997-5859
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David Foy
If it was shot with a Holga, you might as well send it to the drugstore to
be developed and printed.
--
Hitting "reply-to" won't get a reply past the spam blocker, so please
reply to: davi...@shaw.wave.ca
David Foy, 1431 6th St NW, Calgary AB T2M 3E7 (403)282-0512
Kathy Hand wrote in message <354b65af...@news.earthlink.net>...
>forgive me if this has been asked a million times already.
>
>what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
>of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it
>matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a
>Holga.)
>
>thanks in advance.
>
>Kathy Hand
>
daw...@hotmail.com
Using more diluted developer
'softens' the tonal range, making for
generally lower-contrast negatives.
Also improves acutance (edge
sharpness) of the negative, which
(appears to) give more detail.
Downside is increased developing
time which you may not want if in a
hurry.
whom...@wherever.com wrote:
> forgive me if this has been asked a million times already.
> what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a Holga.)
> thanks in advance.
> Kathy Hand
> [do not use REPLY TO - my email address is my name, all one word, all
> lowercase, followed by @ and then earthlink.net.]
>
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Richard Graff
In article <6hrlj5$3ik$1...@nnrp1.dejanews.com>, wrote:
> Using more diluted developer
> 'softens' the tonal range, making for
> generally lower-contrast negatives.
> Also improves acutance (edge
> sharpness) of the negative, which
> (appears to) give more detail.
>
Does this hold true with rotary processing like in a JOBO?
-Rick
--
Using Virtual Access
http://www.vamail.com
smi...@goodnet.com
Another question about Rodinal. should it be a ruddy color when the
bottle is first opened? I've purchase it twice now and this has
occurred both times. I usually assume that developers and dark colors
are not a good combination.
David Holley
On Wed, 22 Apr 1998 03:36:49 GMT, (Kathy Hand) whom...@wherever.com
wrote:
>what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
>of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it
>matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a
I recently asked the same question and with the help of a previous
photo instructor I will pass along what I believe to be a
comprehensive answer to you question.
"The advantage of greater dilution ratios is longer developement
times. This advantage mostly applies to people using the zone system
N+1, N-1 etc... Also using greater dilutions uses less chemistry so
cost per roll goes down. (not including time)
Lower dilution ratios give shorter developement times which means
less wet time. This means less swelling of the gelatin emulsion which
means less clumping of the grain structure."
I have not completed my tests with Rodinal PAN-F, PLUS-X, and TRI-X
but if your intrested I will share what results I found bes for these
films.
davidholley
Richard Knoppow
smi...@goodnet.com wrote:
>Another question about Rodinal. should it be a ruddy color when the
>bottle is first opened? I've purchase it twice now and this has
>occurred both times. I usually assume that developers and dark colors
>are not a good combination.
>\\
Rodinal has a sort of red wine color when it is new which darkens to
a port wine red after its been opened a while. Rodinal concentrate
seems to have a very long life.
>(Kathy Hand) whom...@wherever.com wrote:
>
>>forgive me if this has been asked a million times already.
>
>>what is the benefit or the downside of using Rodinal at 1:50 instead
>>of 1:25, other than saving develop (and a few cents) ?? (if it
>>matters, i'm planning to develop some 120 Arista Pro 400 shot with a
>>Holga.)
>
>>thanks in advance.
>
>>Kathy Hand
>
>>[do not use REPLY TO - my email address is my name, all one word, all
>>lowercase, followed by @ and then earthlink.net.]
>
>
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Richard Ross
smi...@goodnet.com wrote:
>Another question about Rodinal. should it be a ruddy color when the
>bottle is first opened? I've purchase it twice now and this has
>occurred both times. I usually assume that developers and dark colors
>are not a good combination.
It doesn't seem to be a problem with Rodinal. I've used it when it's
dark brown, from a bottle that's been open a year or more, and it's
fine. Agfa b/w chemicals in general seem to keep very well - Neutol
keeps for weeks even as working solution....
Richard
**------------------------------------------------------
* Richard Ross
* RH Designs rhde...@nildram.co.uk
* England
*
** RH Designs - home of the StopClock f-stop enlarger timer
** and many other innovative darkroom products
** http://www.nildram.co.uk/rhdesign
**------------------------------------------------------
Charles E. Albertson
Ignore it. In the best of worlds, Rodinal comes out a pale wheat color
when you first open the bottle, then darkens over time. Doesn't affect
development characteristics.