Color Print Processors
Michael Mandiberg
Does anyone have any advice on which of the various print processors on
the market are more worth buying(durst printo/fujimoto) Has anyone used a
DoMac processor (written up in ShutterBug a while back.)? I appreciate
the help
Michael
Andy Hughes
Michael, you need to be more specific, are you talking about small
darkroom use or large darkroom use, commercial or personal?
For a small personal darkroom I recommend Jobo, I've had one for years
and love it.
I have a page dedicated to building darkrooms and accessories
http://www.open.org/hughesa/w3-01.htm
I hope this information helps
Andy
Emyr Rhys Williams
In article <Michael_Mandiberg...@gradab-bootp-50.gradcenter.brown.edu>,
Michael Mandiberg <URL:mailto:Michael_...@brown.edu> wrote:
> Does anyone have any advice on which of the various print processors on
> the market are more worth buying(durst printo/fujimoto) Has anyone used a
> DoMac processor (written up in ShutterBug a while back.)? I appreciate
> the help
>
I've been using a Metoform 2040 made by Meteor Siegen in Germany for the last six years and find it excellent for black and white and colour. Its a dry to dry roller transport unit and can do prints up to 16 inches wide.
--
Emyr Williams, em...@aberporth.demon.co.uk,
mcreem
Michael Mandiberg wrote:
>
> Does anyone have any advice on which of the various print processors on
> the market are more worth buying(durst printo/fujimoto) Has anyone used a
> DoMac processor (written up in ShutterBug a while back.)? I appreciate
> the help
>
> Michael
I was in the same position that you are several years ago. Two of the
things that I would recommend that you keep in mind are the maximum
width that the machine will take and the amount of chemicals needed to
charge the machine. I settled on an Ilford ICP-42, which has 16"
capacity and only uses two liters of chemicals. It has variable
temperature and variable speed and thus can do almost any process.
I also have a Jobo and am delighted with it. I use it for processing all
of my film. I found cleaning and drying the tubes between each print
very trying.
I have owned the Ilford for 4 years and don't know what I would do
without it. I don't know whether the machines are still available from
Ilford. They never seemed to market them very much. You can find them
used in ShutterBug. Good luck, Michael
KHOwen
>Subject: Re: Color Print Processors
>From: Andy Hughes <hug...@open.org>
>Date: Sat, 06 Sep 1997 23:49:58 -0700
>Message-id: <34124E...@open.org>
>
>Michael Mandiberg wrote:
>>
>> Does anyone have any advice on which of the various print processors on
>> the market are more worth buying(durst printo/fujimoto) Has anyone used a
>> DoMac processor (written up in ShutterBug a while back.)? I appreciate
>> the help
>>
>> Michael
>
>darkroom use or large darkroom use, commercial or personal?
>
>For a small personal darkroom I recommend Jobo, I've had one for years
>and love it.
>
>I have a page dedicated to building darkrooms and accessories
>http://www.open.org/hughesa/w3-01.htm
>I hope this information helps
>
>Andy
>
>
so please consider my comments accordingly.
In addition to roller transport paper processors you might consider a
slot processor, like a Nova Clubmate. If you are not processing large
quantities of prints, a roller transport can become hard to justify. They
are great for large volumes, and incredibly convenient since they are
dry-to-dry. But they can require a lot of maintenance compared to simpler
rotary or slot processors, and they are relatively expensive.
The advantage of slot processors, is no drums to dry. As soon as you are
finished with one print, you can start on the next, almost the same as a
roller transport paper processor, like our Fujimotos. Also, the footprint
of a Nova processor is very small for its capability. An entire 20x24
print processor takes up less space than a single 20x24 tray.
The disadvantage of the slot processors is that they are manual. You need
to agitate the print manually almost continually while it is in the
developer. Less so in later baths, just like you would need to do in trays.
Rotary is convenient because you can use it daylight, and you can run
virtually ANY process on it. But you do need to dry the tanks and drums
between runs. Many of our customers will buy multiple sets of tanks or
drums so they can process in one while drying another.
I hope this information helps. Please feel free to call our Customer
Service Dept at 1-800-664-0344 if you have any questions. Or check our web
site at www.jobo-usa.com.
Ken -- Jobo USA
ke...@jobo-usa.com
Jobo web site: www.jobo-usa.com
Harry P Bloomberg
In article <19970908021...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
KHOwen <kho...@aol.com> wrote:
>
>Rotary is convenient because you can use it daylight, and you can run
>virtually ANY process on it. But you do need to dry the tanks and drums
>between runs. Many of our customers will buy multiple sets of tanks or
>drums so they can process in one while drying another.
>
step of the process is a pre-wet during which the paper is immersed in
tempered water...
What's the point of drying the drum between runs since it's going to
get wet again during the pre-wet anyway?
So, as long as one is consistant about pre-wetting and draining
procedures so that the same amount of water will remain behind every time,
why start with a perfectly dry drum?
Harry Bloomberg
hp...@pitt.edu
Bob Spencer
Because that drop of water sliding across the paper or film before the
prewet CAN (not will) cause a streak.
Harry P Bloomberg <hp...@pitt.edu> wrote in article
<5v0v23$p...@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu>...
KHOwen
>Subject: Re: Color Print Processors
>Date: 8 Sep 1997 13:37:07 GMT
>Message-id: <5v0v23$p...@usenet.srv.cis.pitt.edu>
>
>In article <19970908021...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
>KHOwen <kho...@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>Rotary is convenient because you can use it daylight, and you can run
>>virtually ANY process on it. But you do need to dry the tanks and drums
>>between runs. Many of our customers will buy multiple sets of tanks or
>>drums so they can process in one while drying another.
>>
> Assuming that one is making color prints in a drum, and that the first
>step of the process is a pre-wet during which the paper is immersed in
>tempered water...
>
>get wet again during the pre-wet anyway?
>
> So, as long as one is consistant about pre-wetting and draining
>procedures so that the same amount of water will remain behind every time,
>why start with a perfectly dry drum?
>
>Harry Bloomberg
>hp...@pitt.edu
>
>
pre-wetting". This is not a bladder control problem, but the remarkable
occurence of droplets of water or any liquid reaching the print emulsion
before the rest of the pre-rinse. I'm not sure if there is a time factor
which can be overcome, but it has been our experience here at JOBO, that if
droplets of water rest on the surface of a print for even a few seconds,
that a pre-rinse up to 5 minutes will not "erase" the trace of the droplet
running down the emulsion.
Therefore, if you cannot make the effects of the droplet go away, it
becomes essential to make the drum "perfectly dry" to avoid droplets in the
first place.
There IS one other alternative, but one which I find inconvenient in the
darkroom. Fill the drum completely with water, and submerge the dry print
into the filled drum quickly. I just believe that an open, water-filled
drum is a potential for some sort of disaster in a darkroom.
Bob Spencer
Hair dryer also works pretty well.
...
PeckSales
Michael-
In the August issue of the PMA Magazine, they did a article on most all of
the processors currently available.
Gene
Jim Hein
hp...@pitt.edu (Harry P Bloomberg) wrote:
>In article <19970908021...@ladder02.news.aol.com>,
>KHOwen <kho...@aol.com> wrote:
>>
>>Rotary is convenient because you can use it daylight, and you can run
>>virtually ANY process on it. But you do need to dry the tanks and drums
>>between runs. Many of our customers will buy multiple sets of tanks or
>>drums so they can process in one while drying another.
>>
> Assuming that one is making color prints in a drum, and that the first
>step of the process is a pre-wet during which the paper is immersed in
>tempered water...
>
> What's the point of drying the drum between runs since it's going to
>get wet again during the pre-wet anyway?
>
> So, as long as one is consistant about pre-wetting and draining
>procedures so that the same amount of water will remain behind every time,
>why start with a perfectly dry drum?
>
>Harry Bloomberg
>hp...@pitt.edu
Harry,
I thought the same way you did until I learned the hard way. What
happens if you don't thoroughly dry the tubes is you get pink stains
on the print. What happens is the gelatin in the print emulsion will
swell when a drop of water hits it. This swelling prevents the
developer from properly developing all three layers. This is not a
problem when you do a normal pre-wet because the entire print gets wet
at practically the same time.
hope this helps,
Jim
Harry P Bloomberg
In article <01bcbcb3$06a3d7a0$787663ce@tomcat>,
Bob Spencer <b...@psln.com> wrote:
>
>Because that drop of water sliding across the paper or film before the
>prewet CAN (not will) cause a streak.
>
I may have actually seen this and misattributed it to 1) insufficient
chemistry or 2) processing drum not level. Of course, I can't be sure,
but I can see where this is plausable.
It's not *that* much trouble to wipe out the inside of the drum with a
clean towel between prints, so I think I will start doing this.
At the price of Ilfochrome Classic paper and the time to make a
reprint, it's certainly worth giving a try!
Harry Bloomberg
hp...@pitt.edu