thanks
eichler
APX 100: 8min at 1+25 dil., 17 min at 1+50 dil
APX 25: 10min at 1+50 dil.
Kodak TMZ: 8min at 1+25 dil (not real fine grain, but worth to try at 1000
ASA ;-)
all in a small tank, agitation the first minute continuous and then every 30s,
and, of course, at 20 deg C = 68F
The Agfa APX 100 is not a real fine grain film, if you use 35mm negatives,
but the tonal range is great. APX 25 is fine grain, but needs very
accurate exposure to reproduce enough details.
Rodinal does not work with Kodak TMX (Tmax 100), because you loose all
your shadow details. The grain is dominated by the developer anyway, so
using a T-grain emulsion is not a big advantage.
If you buy a bottle of Rodinal, you will get times for all common films.
Nevertheless you should at least try once to use the Agfa films, since
they work very well with this developer. Their high green sensitivity is a
big advantage for outdoor photography. APX 100 is great for Zone System.
JAn-Peter
>I am looking to start using rodinal again. the last time i used it was
>with panatonic-x, if that is of any help.
>does anyone have any current temp / times combinations that i can start with?
>i am still looking to use it with slower, fine grain films.
Eichler -
I have a chart of film/developer combination on my Web page. You
might check http://www2.ari.net/glsmyth.
george
The times for most films are printed on the side of the bottle.
Leigh Bassett - author of MayaDate, the Ultimate Mayan Calendric Calculator
version 2.10 now in Beta release
>Rodinal does not work with Kodak TMX (Tmax 100), because you loose all
>your shadow details. The grain is dominated by the developer anyway, so
>using a T-grain emulsion is not a big advantage.
OK, I'm sure you knew you'd get this, so here goes: I love the T-Max-100-
Rodinal combination. I use it 1 to 25 and haven't had a problem with lost
shadow detail. It's fine for 35mm but REAL nice with 2 1/4 negatives.
To each, his own.
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Kansas City History http://www.sky.net/~bfinch
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>>Rodinal does not work with Kodak TMX (Tmax 100), because you loose all
>>your shadow details. The grain is dominated by the developer anyway, so
>>using a T-grain emulsion is not a big advantage.
>OK, I'm sure you knew you'd get this, so here goes: I love the T-Max-100-
>Rodinal combination. I use it 1 to 25 and haven't had a problem with lost
>shadow detail. It's fine for 35mm but REAL nice with 2 1/4 negatives.
If you are loosing shadow detail, the easy solution is to reduce your ASA
setting. I've used TMX sheet films with Rodinal 1:50 and didn't have
shadow detail problems. I think I used a speed of 50 or 64 and tend to
use rather generous exposures anyway (determined with a spot meter
which forces lots of decisions on the user and make speed settings rather
arbitrary).
John Sparks
>OK, I'm sure you knew you'd get this, so here goes: I love the T-Max-100-
>Rodinal combination. I use it 1 to 25 and haven't had a problem with lost
>shadow detail. It's fine for 35mm but REAL nice with 2 1/4 negatives.
OK, I'm sure you knew you'd get this, so here goes: :-)
What's your EI? Did you run tests to determine EI?
I'm interested in trying it.
Thanks.
>I am looking to start using rodinal again. the last time i used it was
>with panatonic-x, if that is of any help.
>does anyone have any current temp / times combinations that i can start with?
>i am still looking to use it with slower, fine grain films.
>thanks
>eichler
At least 10 years ago, a Rodinal nut wrote an article for Modern
Photography. He threw away Rodinal's directions, which don't appear
reasonable anyway. I have tried what he came up with, and I think the
guy really came up with something. (Hey, Guy, if you're out there,
Hope you don't mind if I share this) And, dear reader, you might want
to save this, cause you won't find it anywhere else. And Agfa, why
don't you change your label to give workable times!
Film type 1:50 dilution 1:75 1:100
(for "brilliance") (for gradation) (for sharpness)
Tri X 8-10 min* 12-14min NR
HP5 9-11 min 13-15* NR
Agfa400 9-11 13-15 14-16*
Adox KB100 12 min
Plus X 9-11 min 10-13* 14-16
Agfa 100 7-9 8-11 10-13*
Panatomic X NR 5-7 min 8-10*
Ilford Pan F 5-6 7-9 9-11*
* = author's preferred development
NR= Not recommended
Data is for 35mm film developed at 68 degrees F with gentle and
continuous agitation during the first minute and 10 seconds every
minute on the minute thereafter. Use longer times for low contrast
subjects and for diffusion enlargers, shorter times for high contrast
subjects and condenser enlargers. Data with asterisk indicats
author's preferred development for the specified film. It is assumed
that all filsms are exposed at or near the suggested ASSA ratings.
Data should provide reasonably close starting times for 120 rollfilms.
I regret that I do not have the author's name. I recommend Rodinal
very highly following these recommendations. My preference is the Pan
F film with Rodinal. Oooooohhweeeee!!!]
bob (James' Dad)
the list below is definitly not true. A 1+50 dilution for 9min with Agfapan 100
gives a severely underdeveloped negative, even if one shakes very hard
continuously. Even 30 min at 1+100 with APX 100 makes very soft negatives
showeing a lot of highlight details in extreme high contrast situations.
The recommended 13min cannot be true.
I admit that the data might be useful for a point source enlarger. But
most of us use diffuse light sources (like color or VC head, coldlight, or
even some kind of condensors like Leica Focomat). For diffuse light the
below data will lead to useless results and for contrasty condensor
sources like Beseler one would have to use very hard paper grades.
Part of the problem could be that Agfa introduced different emulsions many
years ago, APX instead of AP. For a while, the package of the APX 25 had a
warning that the film has been changed to match the higher speed sisters
properties more closely. I do not know the old emulsion, but they could
have worked with the data below (at least 10 years old).
I found in at least five cases (APX 25, APX 100, TMY, TMZ, different
dilut.)that the rodinal instructions give a normal contrast for a diffuse
light source and that is exactly what the instruction claims.
The technical data sheet gives effective speed for different films and
Rodinal dilutions. Many films gain a third stop with 1+50, and that
coincides with the observations of many users. The speeds are usually one
stop above the Zone System type (fog+D=0.10)=Zone I definition, which
corresponds well to the literature (e.g. Adams, The Negative).
In conclusion, the Agfa recommendations are very useful and reliable in
the cases I tried them. Development times change over the years as the
film manufacturers change the emulsions, and at least Agfa has told the
users about the changes.
Jan-Peter Meyn
>At least 10 years ago, a Rodinal nut wrote an article for Modern
>Photography. He threw away Rodinal's directions, which don't appear
>reasonable anyway. I have tried what he came up with, and I think the
>guy really came up with something. (Hey, Guy, if you're out there,
>Hope you don't mind if I share this) And, dear reader, you might want
>to save this, cause you won't find it anywhere else. And Agfa, why
>don't you change your label to give workable times!
>Film type 1:50 dilution 1:75 1:100
> (for "brilliance") (for gradation) (for sharpness)
>Tri X 8-10 min* 12-14min NR
Interesting how all of our mileages vary. This last weekend my
SO and I developed in Rodinal 1:50 some Tri-X that she'd exposed.
Exposed at an EI of 250, btw, at my suggestion since I don't place
too much faith in manufacturor's film speed ratings.
We read on the bottle that they recommended 16 minutes at 68F. Since I
always seem to be fighting to get enough contrast in my negatives, I
suggested that she add 10% so she developed for 18 minutes. The
negatives look really nice. Those done in soft light (shadow) look to
require about grade 3 paper while those done in sunlight look to require
grade 2. This longish development time seemed to work quite nicely.
All of our mileages always vary.
Barry
--
Barry Sherman, Amdahl Corp. | Art does not reproduce what we see.
b...@oes.amdahl.com | It makes us see. -- Paul Klee
My opinions, not Amdahl's |
Yes I did. I found that I get a fuller range of tones at EI 50, but that overall
contrast is slightly better at 100. Depending on what I'm shooting, I switch
between the two. Your milage may vary.
>Yes I did. I found that I get a fuller range of tones at EI 50, but that overall
>contrast is slightly better at 100. Depending on what I'm shooting, I switch
>between the two. Your milage may vary.
Do you process in a small tank, rotary tube?
Some suggested dilutions and times would be real nice, too.
Or do you use what's on the bottle?
Thanks.
Well, I use a small, two reel stainless steel tank with good-'ol
manual agitation. I'm kind of a contrast nut, so I let the
developer work for an extra minute over the recommended
time on the bottle, so 5.5 minutes becomes 6.5 minutes
at 1-25 dilution. This extra contrast may become less
necessary now that I've got a better enlarging lense.
>What's your EI?
TMX w/Rodinal 1:50 is pretty popular.
I don't use TMX myself, but I'd expect it to be around EI 50 with
Rodinal 1:50 and probably around EI 80 with Rodinal 1:25.
John's Camera Shop
http://www.users.dircon.co.uk/~migol/photo/photosource.html
--Jon Mided
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