HELP!-Omega Super Chromega D Dichroic II

[shrink]

Hope someone can help. I recently purchased a used Omega D-2 with a
Omega Super Chromega D Dichroic II head. I can't get the enlarging
lamp to light.

I know the fan and the front panel light use 120 volts, whereas the
lamp uses 24 volts. The fan and light work fine. Using a volt meter,
I can find the 120 going to these, but cannot get a reading on
anything else. So, as I see it, I either have a bad "power unit", or
I have something hooked up wrong (like the timer). I don't have any
instructions, so I just used common sense (which could be wrong) in
plugging in the timer. Here is what I have done: I plugged the cord
from the timer into the power unit where it says "to timer". I then
plugged the "out" chord from the timer into the power unit where it
says "from timer". The multi-pronged chord in the middle of the power
unit is plugged in the back of the unit and goes to the head. I plug
the power unit in, turn it on, the fan starts and the front of the
head illuminates. I then hit expose (or focus) on the timer and
nothing happens. I have replaced the enlarging lamp, so that's not
it. Any ideas????????

If this is a bad power unit, any low cost "work-arounds" or anyone
know where to get a new power unit?

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance,

Shrink

[RWatson767]

Shrink
>HELP!-Omega Super Chromega D Dichroic II
Not all power units are created equal. Some have a fuse inside. Be sure to find
out why the fuse blew if it did. And are you using the correct power unit?
Bob AZ

[Andrew Strangward]

It sounds like the power unit is fine if the fan is coming on. Possibly
the timer isn't working.

Andrew

[Robert E. Smith]

I hope you have found the trouble by now, but if not:
In the dim past, I have had to "service" all sorts of
electronic/electric devices on various instrumentation packages used on
the Navy's submarines. In nine out of ten cases (literally) the cause
of power losses turned out to be bad connections; sometimes in
mechanical (good ol' Mil. Spec.) connectors, sometimes poor solder
joints. Circuite board multi-wire connectors were notorious for
becoming corroded and failing. Sometimes just "cycling" the connectors
would restore operation. Look for in-line fuses. Manufacturers
sometime place these in inconspicuous and hard to locate places.
Switches and relays are also candidates for failure especially if the
load is capacitive/inductive.
The best proceedure to find the fault is to trace out the circuit
with a voltmeter being very careful where you place the leads. Get a
schematic diagram of the wiring or make one up as you go. If you have
doubts as to your expertice, I'll bet there are many good home-brew
technitions in your neighborhood able to help. Look for gray hair :-)

Good luck, dr bob.

P.S. Off topic note: last week the light in my closet failed.
Investigation found no power at the feed. Very puzzling. A visual
trace of the feeder revealed that the builder, or more possibly a
previous owner, had wired this feeder from the _bathroom_outlet_ which
had a ground fault protect. Resetting this restored power to the
closet. I hope no official home inspectors read this.

[bsa...@ix.netcom.com]

Or look for great big antennas mounted on towers that looks like overgrown TV
antennas. And long inverted V wires hanging from the tower. Just don't call
the guy "good buddy".

The local ham radio club should have someone willing to help. If you don't
find one on the yellow pages find a local emergency group and ask if there is
an ARES (Amateur Radio Emergency Serice) group.

Bert (formerly KA4BBS)

[Tom Laffey]

Hi,

Maybe you've found a way to fix this by now, but if not, take a look at the
lamp socket. These things get real hot and eventually the contact to the
lamp just goes away. Just a thought....

Regards,

Tom

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