XTOL in smaller batches
christine
I have a question regarding XTOL developer. The package I purchased is
to mix 5 litres of chemistry. I do not have a large enough container,
nor do I really want to make that much developer at once. I was
considering splitting it in half, but a friend told me sometimes the
powdered chemicals are not mixed sufficiently, and if I try to cut it in
half, I'll get uneven amounts of the ingredients in each batch. Does
anyone know if this is true or can I split it without worry?
Thanks much,
Christine
Michael A. Covington
Powdered chemicals are not intended to be split; they are not necessarily
evenly mixed because the particles are different sizes. Also, there is
probably no air in the packets.
If you want to try splitting the powder up, mix it thoroughly first and
divide by weighing.
Ian Grant
However I make up the full 5 litres, then I have2.5 litres of working
solution in a black plactic chemical bottle. The rest is stored in two 1
litre + a 500ml container.
I replenish the 2.5litre as I use it as per Kodak's recommendations. My
5"x4" tank takes 2 litres so this works very well. The same technique has
worked with first Microphen then later Adox-Borax MQ until I switched to
Rodinal for about 12 years.
Back to the old techniques with Xtol
Ian
"christine" <chri...@napc.com> wrote in message
news:3B1BF270...@napc.com...
filmrescue
running a control strip I needed only to increase my developer temperature by .3 degrees C to match the results of when the mix was fresh. Don't worry this developer
will not crystallize or separate when refrigerated. It is a good idea to have a refrigerator that is designated as a darkroom fridge as I don't think that this is a
cocktail that you or your family would wish to indulge in on anything but a very special occasion. Jonestown comes to mind.
Greg Miller
Film Rescue International
Processors of old film
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CWal871581
freeze it. Is it possible to freeze developer (Xtol or any other type) if you
have more than you can consume before it goes bad?
Curtis
<< Subject: XTOL in smaller batches
From: christine chri...@napc.com
Date: Mon, Jun 4, 2001 8:41 PM
Message-id: <3B1BF270...@napc.com>
Michael A. Covington
"CWal871581" <cwal8...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010605024646...@ng-fr1.aol.com...
> When I have more paper or film than I can use in a reasonable amount of
time I
> freeze it. Is it possible to freeze developer (Xtol or any other type) if
you
> have more than you can consume before it goes bad?
Not recommended because things will crystallize out of solution.
Ian Grant
Ian
"CWal871581" <cwal8...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20010605024646...@ng-fr1.aol.com...
filmrescue
Greg Miller
Mark Rabiner
>
> It will keep even longer in the refrigerator though I would not recommend freezing it.
>
> Greg Miller
>
> --
I just labeled 5 half liter bottles and 10 quarter liter bottles and poured my 5
liters of Xtol into them. They are ready for Action.
I use the half liter bottles as one shots for 2 liter tanks and quarter litter
bottles for one liter tanks. I do 1:3 so that's why that works.
They look great on the shelf. Brown glass.
Less measuring
lets see five liters for $8.80 cents.
1.76 a liter
.44 a tank
.11 a roll for 35mm
.003 a pic so a penny give me 3.3 shots!
better remortgage the house
Mark Rabiner
Portland, Oregon
USA
christine
experience people have have with different dilutions. Do you prefer 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3?
I've heard you can get sharper images with more dilution because it becomes less of a
solvent developer...
Also someone was asking for an alternative to XTOL a while back. I found this recipe in
the "Film Developing Cookbook" based on its patent if you want to mix your own:
Part A:
Sodium Sulfite Anhydrous
10
Diethylene-triamine-pentaacetic acid, pentasodium salt (40%) 1
Sodium metaborate (8 mole) 4
4-Hydroxymethyl-4-methyl-1-phenyl-3-pyrazolidone 0.2
Part B:
Sodium sulfite anhydrous
75
Sodium
metabisulfite
3.5
Soium
isoascorbate
12
Add part A to 750 ml of water at room temperature; follow with Part B and water to make one
liter.
I'm assuming these amounts are in grams. I have no ides what the "8 mole" means next to
the sodium metaborate. This will remedy the problem with Kodak's xtol failing, though.
-christine
christine
Joe Foto
> While we're still on the subject of XTOL, I'd like to tale a poll and find out what
> experience people have have with different dilutions. Do you prefer 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3?
> I've heard you can get sharper images with more dilution because it becomes less of a
> solvent developer...
I use it for Tri-X, straight (no dilution), and as a 1-shot developer
only.
For me, this gives the best highlights and finest grain. When I've
tried Xtol with any of the other films I use (especially Ilford), it
just looks bad.
My $0.02
Joe
Ian Grant
once the solution has reached "maturity". Used like this its very economic.
However I first used it at 1:2 and it was really nice quality, but very
uneconomic with 5"x4".
It is normal to use full strenght & replenished in commercial use, where
speed & consistency is important.
Ian
"christine" <chri...@napc.com> wrote in message
news:3B1E3987...@napc.com...
Lloyd Erlick
>While we're still on the subject of XTOL, I'd like to tale a poll and find out what
>experience people have have with different dilutions. Do you prefer 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3?
jun701 from Lloyd Erlick,
I use Kodak TMY in 120 format most often. I expose it
at EI 200. I develop it in Xtol diluted 1+2 in
distilled water. I presoak the film in plain tap water
at 21C for two to three minutes, develop for twelve
minutes at 21C, and agitate once per minute for about
ten seconds (I think of this as 'normal' agitation).
I've experimented with other films handled exactly the
same way. I have used the above development specs for a
mix of three film types (all 120 format) in the same
tank: Kodak TMY (exposed at EI 200), Kodak TX (exposed
at EI 200), and Ilford D3200 (exposed at EI 800).
I've done Kodak TXP (120 format) this way too, at EI
200, and I think they are fine, but I've only used it a
little. My feeling is that setting the light meter at
200 is appropriate for TXP (120 format), but for TX
(120 format), 250 might be better.
It's possible the TX should be exposed at EI 250, but
basically the pictures I get from any of these films
developed this way seem quite good. I use daylight
almost exclusively, and I find that a lot bigger
variable than anything about my development setup.
regards,
--le
-------------------------------------
Lloyd Erlick,
357 Richmond Street West,
Toronto M5V 1X3 Canada.
---
voice 416-596-8751
ll...@the-wire.com
http://www.heylloyd.com
-------------------------------------
Mark Rabiner
>
> christine <chri...@napc.com> wrote:
>
> >While we're still on the subject of XTOL, I'd like to tale a poll and find out what
> >experience people have have with different dilutions. Do you prefer 1:1, 1:2, or 1:3?
>
I go 1:1 with Delta 3200 which i think is really 1200 with Xtol.
I got fog at 1:3 with that film in both 120 and 35mm.
A higher dilution will give you better Acutance and edge effects which
translates to a sharper looking print. I will dilute until grain becomes an
issue or uneven development or fog.
You could a some point at extreme high dilutions start looses film speed but
generally a higher dilution will give you a better compensating neg which means
better film speed.
1:3 was the highest recommended. Steve Anchell mentioned going higher i think.
I'm fine at 1:3. The logistics of it work out well.
This will put you past the 100mls per roll BS they put out by the way.
If you negs come out a bit thin give it more time.
But if you are used to filling a one liter tank with 4 rolls of film and then
you run one with only one roll. It's going to be over developed. I can deal with
that quirk.