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Jobo C-41 Press Kit question

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Ron Purdue

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Dec 30, 2005, 8:32:34 PM12/30/05
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Here is a question on the JOBO C-41 Press Kit. The directions say to use a
water presoak before the developer, would that ruin the film? The Tetenal
C-41 Press Kit states that the developer does not recommend a water presoak,
what is the difference between Jobo and Tetenal developers? Thanks.


Ken Hart

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Dec 31, 2005, 7:31:27 PM12/31/05
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"Ron Purdue" <RONALD...@prodigy.net> wrote in message
news:Scltf.541$801...@newssvr30.news.prodigy.com...
I've never used the Press Kit...
When I first started doing C-41, I was getting uneven developement. That
ended when I started using a water pre-soak of at least 2 minutes at the
developer temperature (100F). I've found that over 2- 2.5 minutes is a waste
of time with no advantage, less than 2 minutes gives the risk of uneven
developement.

(Giving credit where due, it was someone here who advised me to use the
presoak!)

Don't be freaked when you pour the water out and it has a color to it! With
Kodak Portra film, it's a deep green. Don't know about other films-- that's
all I process.


--
Ken Hart
kwh...@aec.nu

Dr. Dagor

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Jan 2, 2006, 1:49:20 PM1/2/06
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I recommend using the full suite of C-41 chemicals and not the quick
ones like Tetenal. You have more control and the final dunk in the
nasty stuff seems to do a better job of preserving the neg.

By the way... Tetenal is JOBO. If there were a JOBO kit it would be
exactly the same as Tetenal with a different name on the boxes.

If you are doing the processing in tanks or drums, be sure not to put
the final rinse chemistry into the drum, but drop the developed film
into some other container used only for the final rinse. Apparently
some of the chemicals in the final rinse brew can poison the plastic in
the drum. This was more true of the fold formaldihyde rinses, but it's
still worth being careful about.

Ralf R. Radermacher

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Jan 2, 2006, 2:29:58 PM1/2/06
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Dr. Dagor <drd...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> By the way... Tetenal is JOBO.

Not all of it. Most of the chemicals sold by Jobo come from Fuji-Hunt.

Ralf

--
Ralf R. Radermacher - DL9KCG - Köln/Cologne, Germany
private homepage: http://www.fotoralf.de
manual cameras and photo galleries - updated Jan. 10, 2005
Contarex - Kiev 60 - Horizon 202 - P6 mount lenses

Rob Novak

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Jan 3, 2006, 4:02:53 PM1/3/06
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On 2 Jan 2006 10:49:20 -0800, "Dr. Dagor" <drd...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I recommend using the full suite of C-41 chemicals and not the quick
>ones like Tetenal. You have more control and the final dunk in the
>nasty stuff seems to do a better job of preserving the neg.

Are you thinking of E-6? The only real difference between the liquid
Rapid Kit and the Press Kit is that the PK has the chemicals in powder
form for easy transport. Both include stabilizer.

As far as the Kodak four-bath C-41 (as opposed to the three-bath
method that the rest use), there's no "extra control" there, since the
difference is a separate bleach and fix stage instead of a single
blix, and those reactions are taken to completion.

--
Strange, Geometrical Hinges: http://rob.rnovak.net

Dr. Dagor

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Jan 3, 2006, 10:07:22 PM1/3/06
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Hmmm... Went back to my notes and couldn't find what I thought I
remembered about issues with the three step processes, so you are
probably right. I just know that the time I tried a product with BLIX
it worked really poorly in a JOBO processor (ATL-2200). But of course
there are other things that go bump in the night.

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