1:7 & 1:9 dilution times for TMAX
David Doern
I've lost the thread now, but somebody was interested in the development
times with TMAX developer diluted more than 1:4. At 75F/24C, here's what
Kodak says:
TMAX 100 TMAX 400
T-MAX (1:7): 11.5 min. 10 min.
T-MAX (1:9): 15.0 min. 14 min.
I use the 1:7 dilution all the time and like the results.
If you're interested in TMAX films, I highly recommend calling up Kodak
(1-800-GO-KODAK (i.e. 1-800-465-6325) in Canada at least) and asking for
publication F-32, a 28-page brochure which, as well as listing the above
times, gives piles of other useful information on TMAX 100, 400, and
P3200: adjusting film contrast, push-processing times, etc.. Well worth
picking up.
Dave.
David Brenner
David Doern wrote:
>
> I've lost the thread now, but somebody was interested in the development
> times with TMAX developer diluted more than 1:4.
That was me! Thanks! :)
I am a little confused about this, though. Normally, one mixes 1 part
of pure T-MAX with 4 parts of water to make a stock solution. Later on,
that same stock solution is mixed 1:1 with water to develop film. So,
is it that I make up a solution of 1:7 initially and then 1:1 later on
or is it just 1:7 and then no further dilution?
db
David Doern
d...@kalama.com wrote:
> I am a little confused about this, though. Normally, one mixes 1 part
> of pure T-MAX with 4 parts of water to make a stock solution. Later on,
> that same stock solution is mixed 1:1 with water to develop film. So,
> is it that I make up a solution of 1:7 initially and then 1:1 later on
> or is it just 1:7 and then no further dilution?
>
>
> db
It's just 1:7 initially, and then no further dilution. All the ratios
given are for pure concentrate to water.
However, if you want to dilute 1:4 for an intermediate concentration
and then this by 1:1, your final concentration will be 1:9 -- your
intermediate concentration is 1 part developer to four parts water, for a
total of five parts, and then you're adding another five parts water. So
should this is what you're doing, you're already getting maximum economy
by using the minimum dilution listed.
Cheers,
David
Logicon RDA
David Brenner (d...@kalama.com) wrote:
: David Doern wrote:
: >
: > I've lost the thread now, but somebody was interested in the development
: > times with TMAX developer diluted more than 1:4.
: That was me! Thanks! :)
: I am a little confused about this, though. Normally, one mixes 1 part
: of pure T-MAX with 4 parts of water to make a stock solution. Later on,
: that same stock solution is mixed 1:1 with water to develop film. So,
: is it that I make up a solution of 1:7 initially and then 1:1 later on
: or is it just 1:7 and then no further dilution?
Where have you seen instructions from Kodak telling you to first mix a
stock solution of TMAX developer then further dilute it? All dilutions
are made by mixing the pure TMAX out of the grey bottle with water.
"Stock" solutions of TMAX have a short self life. 1:7 is just that.
One part TMAX to seven part water.
You _should_ in theroy get finer grain with the 1:4 mix as grain size
get bigger with longer delvelopment times. I think this is why Kodak
recomends 1:4 at such a high (for B & W) process temp. Problem is
this is hard to control. You need to be a human robot if you use
TMAX 1:4 at 75F. In Kodak's tech. data sheet for TMX they show
Contrast Index (CI) as a function of dev. time. For TMAX developer
it is almost a vertical line. Dilute it 1:7 or use D76 and it becomes
a bit flatter. But I think you trade away grain and shadow detail for
the flatter curve.
Personally, I've taken to using Edwal TG-7 with TMX. It is a compensating
developer then gets the contrast down to where I want it. I shoot
TMX at 80ASA with TG7 a bit lower with TMAX but that is my meter,
lens, thermometer, shutters, enlarger type, tase and so on...
-- Chris Albertson
: db
MarBau
Chris writes:
<<<<Where have you seen instructions from Kodak telling you to first mix a
stock solution of TMAX developer then further dilute it? All dilutions
are made by mixing the pure TMAX out of the grey bottle with water.>>>>
I blame Kodak for calling two completly different developers very similar
names, (*TMax* and *TMax RS*)
With RS you are directed to mix the entire bottle to what is a 1:4
dilution. I have not used TMax for a long time but I believe you just mix
it to various dilutions out of the bottle. Maybe people are getting the 2
develops mixed up!
TriX is another example. Why did Kodak call 2 VERY different fims TriX and
TriX prof.???
Mark.
The above thoughts are opinions, flame me for errors in fact but do not
flame me for having an opinion.
Keith Kreeger
Mark,
> TriX is another example. Why did Kodak call 2 VERY different fims TriX
and
> TriX prof.???
The primary differences between the standard and "pro" versions of the B&W
films from Kodak was to indicate a retouching base on the pro.
Unfortunately, the emulsions were entirely different in the 120 format! I
always used the straight Tri-X in 120.
Lots of people think Verichrome Pan is an amateur film. In fact, Tri-X is
based on VP and the tonal responses are very close, yet VP is cheaper and
has a wonderful grain structure. I'm hoping Kodak doesn't bail out on
it!
Keith
David Brenner
David Doern wrote:
> It's just 1:7 initially, and then no further dilution. All the ratios
> given are for pure concentrate to water.
> However, if you want to dilute 1:4 for an intermediate concentration
> and then this by 1:1, your final concentration will be 1:9 -- your
> intermediate concentration is 1 part developer to four parts water, for a
> total of five parts, and then you're adding another five parts water. So
> should this is what you're doing, you're already getting maximum economy
> by using the minimum dilution listed.
Well, both T-MAX film and T-MAX developer are new to me, so I
mistakingly worked with it the same way I was working with D-76.
Rather, I didn't see anything indicating that an additional 1:1 dilution
*wasn't* needed. However, this might explain why negatives that I
developed with this concentration (1:9) were dark along the edges. :)
db
Pat Fahey
TMAX films and developer CAN work real well but you have to remember that they
are much more sensitive to development times and temperatures than most other
films. Once you get control over development parameters they can preform
pretty well.
As far as mixing goes - I have read a lot of confusing formulas here and
other places too. Using liquid developers are designed to be easy and TMAX
developer is no exception.
I use TMAX Developer RS (the RS is important - it means it's suitable to be
used as a developer and a replenisher , but don't worry about that - just use
it, not TMAX Developer). The developer comes with a small package (part B).
When I get the developer, I immediately pour part B into the larger bottle,
part A, put the cap back on and put it on the shelf. This is what I call
"stock". I have had stock on the shelf for more than 6 months with no change
in strength. (I measure ZIII and ZVIII negatives for density to check)
For use, I mix stock with 7 or 9 parts water as necessary to make the working
solution. Works great and it's simple.
-psf