My developed film is PURPLE! Why?
Patrick Pritchard - FMPS/F95
Hi.
For the past while I've had the following problem when developing film AT
HOME. (At other places, either labs, or other darkrooms I work in
(different chemicals though), I don't have this problem).
My film turns PURPLE!
I'm using the following (For Ilford HP5+)
Ilford HC (1+31) @ 6.5 Minutes
Ilford IN-1 Stop Bath (1+31) @ 1 Minute
Ilford Universal Rapid Fixer (1+3) @ 5 Minutes
Wash @ 10 Minutes
Kodak PhotoFlo (Recommedned Dilution)
Development is as follows:
For Developer: 6 Inversions for the first 10 seconds, 6 inversions every
minute thereafter
For Stopper: 6 Inversions for the first 10 seconds, and at 30 seconds
For the Fixer: 6 Inversions for the first 10 seconds, 6 inversions every
minute thereafter
After the film is dried, I end up with "purple and white" as opposed to
"black and white" negatives.
EMAIL REPLIES PLEASE. Any help, appreciated!
mike zalanka
My Tmax 100 *always* turns some shade of purple when developed. It's
normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
just as well as any other. --Mike
Dana Myers
In article <323A17...@ix.netcom.com>,
mike zalanka <jzal...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
>My Tmax 100 *always* turns some shade of purple when developed. It's
>normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
>just as well as any other. --Mike
My TMX isn't purple. It isn't really normal, but a slight stain isn't
serious. I use hypo and there is no trace of purple when I'm done
washing.
--
* Dana H. Myers KK6JQ, DoD#: j | Views expressed here are mine and should *
* (310) 348-6043 | not be interpreted or represented as *
* Dana....@West.Sun.Com | those of Sun Microsystems, Inc. *
George L Smyth
You need to use new fixer. TMax is a bit more obstinant with this. My
procedure is fresh fixer for four minutes, wash one, wash aid one, wash
one, allow to sit in still water ten, Photoflo. Never have a purple
problem.
george
--
Handmade Photographic Images
http://www2.ari.net/glsmyth
Georgios Giannopoulos
mike zalanka wrote:
> My Tmax 100 *always* turns some shade of purple when developed. It's
> normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
> just as well as any other. --Mike
No it is not true.. This means that you didn't leave the film enough time to the fixing.
You must know that the T-MAX series films need the double time for fixing that the other
films.
Try to leave the film more time to the fixing and you will see that it does not comes
purple.. (don't hesitate to do this since it is not problem if you leave the film more
time to the fixing).
--
Georgios P. Giannopoulos
gg...@cc.ece.ntua.gr
http://www.cc.ece.ntua.gr/~ggia
Ben Weiner
my...@West.Sun.COM (Dana Myers) writes:
>mike zalanka <jzal...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>My Tmax 100 *always* turns some shade of purple when developed. It's
>>normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
>>just as well as any other. --Mike
>My TMX isn't purple. It isn't really normal, but a slight stain isn't
>serious. I use hypo and there is no trace of purple when I'm done
>washing.
The purple tint in Tmax is from a sensitizing dye in the emulsion. If
it's really bad it can be a sign of underfixing. However, even with
proper fixing - note Tmax requires about twice the usual time - you
can still have a purple tint to the film. It comes out if you use a
wash aid such as Perma Wash. Use of a washing aid is highly
recommended anyway, as it improves archival stability of your
negatives, and cuts washing time.
Incidentally, I've seen purple tint in other films before the wash-aid
stage, notably Tri-X.
g-ko
When I've used TMax, I find a 6 minute fix and a 3-5 minute hypo bath
clears the film. I've only had problems when I cut the hypo short, not
the fix.
Greg Coan
gmc...@charm.net
E. Lemar
g-ko (gmc...@charm.net) wrote:
: When I've used TMax, I find a 6 minute fix and a 3-5 minute hypo bath
I have noticed over the last week or so that people have been
refering to Hypo Clearing Agent as Hypo. It is not HYPO. Hypo
is Fixer -- thus the name Hypo Clearing Agent. Hypo Clearing
Agent aids in the removal of Hypo (Fixer).
Ray
Paul van Walree
>Patrick Pritchard - FMPS/F95 wrote:
>>
>> My film turns PURPLE!
>>
>> For the Fixer: 6 Inversions for the first 10 seconds, 6 inversions every
>> minute thereafter
>My Tmax 100 *always* turns some shade of purple when developed. It's
>normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
>just as well as any other. --Mike
My first TMX film came out the fixer almost deep purple. Ever since
I have used the double fixer time (say six minutes) with *continuous*
inversions and fresh fixer. Fixing thoroughly is of the utmost importance
for all TMax films, and probably for a couple of others. Occasionally I
still get a vague pink shade over the negatives, but usually I get
a true black and white result.
It is not true that a purple film prints just as well as
any other. With multicontrast paper, the purple colour falls in the high
end of the filter range and one loses control in selecting the contrast.
Walrus
Ron Frank
UnderFixing TMAX is DEFINATELY the cause of purple TMAX negs. However
doubling the fix time is not necessary, or using fresh fixer. Just use
Kodaks recommended fix time (which is greater that 6 minutes), and use a
hypo check to make sure the fixer is NOT expired before fixing film.
I often let my TMAX sit in fix for 20 minutes while I do other things just
to be safe, but that's not necessary. Also, the purple color may result in
very SLIGHTLY higher contrast. But I have to disagree with Walrus in that I
have very good control using multicontrast paper, and adding or reducing
contrast with an underfixed negative (which I have a few from over the
years).
--
Ron Frank
Mirror Image Photography
Ron Frank
Which is why the fixer is checked using HYPO check! But I think we all knew
what they ment!
Mike McDonald
In article <323EB6...@mci.com>,
Ron Frank <ronald...@mci.com> writes:
> UnderFixing TMAX is DEFINATELY the cause of purple TMAX negs. However
> doubling the fix time is not necessary, or using fresh fixer. Just use
> Kodaks recommended fix time (which is greater that 6 minutes), and use a
> hypo check to make sure the fixer is NOT expired before fixing film.
>
> I often let my TMAX sit in fix for 20 minutes while I do other things just
> to be safe, but that's not necessary. Also, the purple color may result in
> very SLIGHTLY higher contrast. But I have to disagree with Walrus in that I
> have very good control using multicontrast paper, and adding or reducing
> contrast with an underfixed negative (which I have a few from over the
> years).
>
> --
> Ron Frank
> Mirror Image Photography
A uniform pink/purple for TMAX is NOT an indication of incomplete
fixing. It's a sign of incomplete washing. At least according to
Kodak. They say that blotchy pink/purple is an indication of improper
fixing. Now, whether you spend your time washing the antihalation
layer (the cause of the pink/purple) off with fixer or water, that's
up to you. I personally find water cheaper.
Mike McDonald
mik...@engr.sgi.com
E. Lemar
Ron Frank (ronald...@mci.com) wrote:
: E. Lemar wrote:
: >
: > I have noticed over the last week or so that people have been
: > refering to Hypo Clearing Agent as Hypo. It is not HYPO. Hypo
: > is Fixer -- thus the name Hypo Clearing Agent. Hypo Clearing
: > Agent aids in the removal of Hypo (Fixer).
: >
: > Ray
:
: Which is why the fixer is checked using HYPO check! But I think we all knew
: what they ment!
: Ron Frank
: Mirror Image Photography
I'm sure that all of us who have been doing photography for years
(30 + in my case) knew, but I'm not so sure those just starting
realize it.
Ray
Michael Covington
I think both answers are partly right. The purple dye is supposed to
wash out, partly in the fixer and partly in the wash water.
Fixing for 20 minutes will partly bleach the image, at least in an
ammonium thiosulfate fixer. (There was an article demonstrating this
in AAS Photo-Bulletin about 15 years ago... I once wrote down the
reference but don't have it handy.)
On the other hand, T-Max films do require somewhat more fixing time
than other films, and if underfixed, they will have a blue haze on them.
--
Michael A. Covington http://www.ai.uga.edu/faculty/covington/
Artificial Intelligence Center <><
The University of Georgia Unless specifically indicated, I am
Athens, GA 30602-7415 U.S.A. not speaking for the University.
Richard Knoppow
mcov...@ai.uga.edu (Michael Covington) wrote:
I measured the clearing time of T-Max 100 and 400 in fresh Kodak
standard fixer. They took about 3 min. Most other films (i.e.FP-4)
take 2 to 2.5 min. Fixing should be complete in about twice the
clearing time. I use the two bath method of fixing for both film and
paper. I use a total time longer than the time for fresh fixer since
the fixer usually isn't un-used. I use 4 min. in each of the two
baths for all film except Tech Pan for which much shorter times are
rcommended. My T-Max comes out with a slight purple stain which will
wash out with 1/2 hour of normal wash. However, I use a wash aid
(Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent) and that takes the stain out immediately.
After a 5 to 10 min wash the negatives are clear.
According to Kodak the stain is from residual sensitizing dye.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Stefan Kahlert
In article <51dcdp$5...@abyss.West.Sun.COM>
my...@West.Sun.COM (Dana Myers) writes:
>In article <323A17...@ix.netcom.com>,
>mike zalanka <jzal...@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>>
>>normal! After it dries, the film turns more gray, but purple film prints
>>just as well as any other. --Mike
>
>serious. I use hypo and there is no trace of purple when I'm done
>washing.
TMX is known to have a purple
anti-halation layer but with HP5 this is absolutely new to me.
My stock is about one year old, maybe they changed the anti-halation
chemicals. In this case I would recommend to prolongue fixing as
for the delta films. Maybe HP5 has the same anti-halation formula now
or have a look at www.Ilford.com, maybe they can tell if something changed
with HP5.
regards
--
Stefan Kahlert, Medizinische Universitaets-Poliklinik Bonn
UZS...@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de or UZS...@dbnrhrz1.bitnet
Richard Knoppow
UZS...@ibm.rhrz.uni-bonn.de (Stefan Kahlert) wrote:
According to Kodak the residue in T-Max is sensitizing dye not
anti-halation dye and the Ilford film may have the same problem. Try
using a wash aid like Kodak Hypo Clearing agent or Perma-Wash and see
if it works.
Jan-Peter Meyn
A fast and economical way to avoid purple (underfixed) Tmax negatives it
the use of two fixing baths:
1. bath: twice the time it takes to clear the film from opaque to deep purple.
water rinse (keep temperature!)
2. bath same time as first bath.
The second bath is almost fresh and will be capable of taking the purple
color away. The first bath is discarded when the clearing time is 50%
longer than with a fresh bath. Then it is replaced by the second bath and
a fresh second bath is made. It is evident that this method saves fixer
though you use two baths.
bTW, I got this recommendation from this newsgroup about a year ago and I
use it for all my films.
Jan-Peter
Budi Tahir
mik...@engr.sgi.com (Mike McDonald) wrote:
>In article <323EB6...@mci.com>,
> Ron Frank <ronald...@mci.com> writes:
>
>> UnderFixing TMAX is DEFINATELY the cause of purple TMAX negs. However
>> doubling the fix time is not necessary, or using fresh fixer. Just use
>> Kodaks recommended fix time (which is greater that 6 minutes), and use a
>> hypo check to make sure the fixer is NOT expired before fixing film.
>>
>> I often let my TMAX sit in fix for 20 minutes while I do other things just
>> to be safe, but that's not necessary. Also, the purple color may result in
>> very SLIGHTLY higher contrast. But I have to disagree with Walrus in that I
>> have very good control using multicontrast paper, and adding or reducing
>> contrast with an underfixed negative (which I have a few from over the
>> years).
>>
>> Ron Frank
>> Mirror Image Photography
>
>fixing. It's a sign of incomplete washing. At least according to
>Kodak. They say that blotchy pink/purple is an indication of improper
>fixing. Now, whether you spend your time washing the antihalation
>layer (the cause of the pink/purple) off with fixer or water, that's
>up to you. I personally find water cheaper.
>
> Mike McDonald
> mik...@engr.sgi.com
My experience with pink/purple negative (TMY):
Some time last month I posted in this newsgourp about the problem I was
having with 'pinkish negative (TMY)'; many kind people had responded and
basically suggested 3 things to solved it, i.e.:
1. refix the pinkish negative
2. use HYPO Clearing Agent
3. print as it is, should be no problem.
I have acted on all three suggestions, In the mean time I have cut the
TMY roll into 5 strips of 7 frames, and my experience is as follows:
1. I refixed one strip in an open tray, with agitation, at 21C.
The negative became clear within 3 minutes. I might add that the
pink colour was uniform, not blotchy.
2. I put another strip in HYPO Clearing Agent, again open tray, agitation
and at 21C. After 8 minutes the negative remained pink, I did not
notice any change.
3. I made a 8x10 print from a pink negative. Turned out good, used about
the same time as ussual (12 secs at f.8); maybe a little more contrast.
I do not have a clear and a pink negative of exactly the same exposure
to experiment further with the contrast effect the pink negative may
have introduced.
Well, that is my $0.03 worth of experience that I like to share with all
the kind people in this news group. Thanks again.
Budi Tahir
ta...@nortel.ca