Developing chemicals and hints
William Laut
Carl (xc...@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: I'm interested in beginning color developing at home - amateur photographer,
: just for fun and better image control.
:
: 1. Any good Net references on color developing?
:
Yes, this ng. You'll find no better collection of information concerning
color processing, ranging from beginning amateur up to professional
techie, as well as the "lab rats" who brew their own color chemistries
from bulk chemicals (that's me, BTW).
So, feel free to ask specific questions and you'll get lots of answers.
:
: 2. Is there any problem with my septic system rinsing chemicals down the
: drain? Well water is free here, so no prob with water suppply
:
As regards dumping into a septic tank, there will not be a problem for the
quantities that you as an amateur will likely produce.
As regards to using tap water, let alone "well water," that has been a
subject of more than one debate in this ng. IMO, I would suggest you use
distilled water for mixing the developer until you gain the knowledge of
how to produce good color prints, and then try mixing your developer from
well water and see if there is a change and/or degradation in your prints.
The debate over tap vs. well vs. filtered vs. deionized vs. destilled is
quite a lively one around here.
:
: 3. Any thoughts on switching from print film to slide film, then just
: printing the ones I like? I have no desire to show slides, but I'm
: interested in the better format, and perhaps selling an image or two. I
: thoughtI'd still take pics of the kids, vacation, etc on print and have
: commercial lab do these for the albums, then use slide when I'm serious
: about practicing technique, etc.
:
IMAO, you are far better off sticking with negative film than going to
slide film, because to get really great color enlargements from slides
will entail some amount of masking in order to control the contrast, which
generally is not the problem with negative film. Additionally, negative
film tends to have a wider exposure latitude than slide film. Finally,
the materials for color printing from negs is considerably cheaper than
printing from slides.
Personally, I would recommend that you standardize on a given color film
and paper stock, and then as you gain experience, you can branch out into
esoteria as desired.
Therefore, my recommendation is that you start with Kodak Vericolor III
Professional film, a/k/a "VPS." For paper, my personal preference is
been Fujicolor Super-FA, as it's dyes are claimed to last much longer than
Kodak's, and the paper (where I live, at least) is cheaper than Kodak.
I would also recommend that you consider using a room-temperature RA-4
chemistry, as you'll have enough to learn in terms of controlling color
balances without having to deal with temperature control.
I suggest you purchase a used Beseler print drum to get started with, as
opposed to using open trays, and that you only use the developer once.
IE, "one-shot" processing. The reason is that there would otherwise be a
buildup of byproducts that will affect the color quality of the next
print, and you'll have a discouraging difficulty in achieving good
results.
As for developing your own color negative film, there is regretably no
inexpensive way of doing it at home. The problems, as I see it, are
two-fold. First, you have to be able to maintain a 100F temperature to
within +/- 0.5F during the developer step, and that frankly is difficult
to do without a good rotary processor. The second problem is that the
C-41 chemistries are simply too expensive for the average home enthusiast.
At present, the only cost-effective means of developing your own color
negatives is to mix your photochemistry from bulk chemicals, but that will
require a fair investment ($300 minimum between scale and chems), and
might be unreasonable to consider if you are just starting out in color
and especially if you are presumably just getting started in a home
darkroom.
I would suggest that you start out fairly inexpensively at first, to see
how seriously you wish to pursue color printing. If you get really hooked
on it, then I would suggest you consider purchasing a Jobo CPE-2 Plus
Starter Kit. This is a rotary processor that will handle both 35mm film
and prints, and should you decide to try color negative processing, it can
resolve the elevated temperature for you. Besides, a rotary processor
makes processing more enjoyable. IMO, of course. :-)
Finally, something else you'll will _definitely_ need is a Kodak "Color
Print Filter Viewing Pack." This is a packet of color viewing filters
that you can use to evaluate your prints with, in order to accurately
adjust your filterpack.
Bill Laut
Ron Speirs
William Laut <wl...@alpha.delta.edu> wrote
: Carl (xc...@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: : I'm interested in beginning color developing at home - amateur photographer,
: : just for fun and better image control.
: :
: : 1. Any good Net references on color developing?
William: I heartily concur with your other comments [stuff deleted here]
with the exception of your comments on developing color negative film:
: As for developing your own color negative film, there is regretably no
: inexpensive way of doing it at home. The problems, as I see it, are
: two-fold. First, you have to be able to maintain a 100F temperature to
: within +/- 0.5F during the developer step, and that frankly is difficult
: to do without a good rotary processor. The second problem is that the
: C-41 chemistries are simply too expensive for the average home enthusiast.
: At present, the only cost-effective means of developing your own color
: negatives is to mix your photochemistry from bulk chemicals, but that will
: require a fair investment ($300 minimum between scale and chems), and
: might be unreasonable to consider if you are just starting out in color
: and especially if you are presumably just getting started in a home
: darkroom.
After having developed hundreds of rolls of C-41 film in a simple
stainless steel tank and reels, I would describe the procedure as
"No big deal". Maintaining the temperature of a ~gallon of water in a
dishpan is relatively easy with a light dimmer and a coffee-cup immersion
heater. The chemicals aren't that costly either. A 3.5-gallon kit of
Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Developer is about $20; add to that some acetic
acid for stop bath, some potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide
for bleach, Kodak Flexicolor Fixer, and some Photo Flo for final rinse,
and that's about it. You don't need a scale for the bleach chemicals;
the accuracy for the bleach isn't that important. Considering the
questionable C-41 processing results that I've seen from commercial
photofinishers, I trust my process more. (For details, reply by E-mail.)
Finally, something else you'll will _definitely_ need is a Kodak "Color
: Print Filter Viewing Pack." This is a packet of color viewing filters
: that you can use to evaluate your prints with, in order to accurately
: adjust your filterpack.
I used one of these filter kits when I was taking a class to learn
color printing. I never did find them particularly useful. To me, a
home-made color ringaround series of a good negative was more helpful.
: Bill Laut
Ron Speirs
William Laut
Ron Speirs (rsp...@xmission.xmission.com) wrote:
: William Laut <wl...@alpha.delta.edu> wrote
: : Carl (xc...@ix.netcom.com) wrote:
: : : I'm interested in beginning color developing at home - amateur photographer,
: : : just for fun and better image control.
: : :
: : : 1. Any good Net references on color developing?
:
: William: I heartily concur with your other comments [stuff deleted here]
: with the exception of your comments on developing color negative film:
:
: : As for developing your own color negative film, there is regretably no
: : inexpensive way of doing it at home. The problems, as I see it, are
: : two-fold. First, you have to be able to maintain a 100F temperature to
: : within +/- 0.5F during the developer step, and that frankly is difficult
: : to do without a good rotary processor. The second problem is that the
: : C-41 chemistries are simply too expensive for the average home enthusiast.
:
: stainless steel tank and reels, I would describe the procedure as
: "No big deal". Maintaining the temperature of a ~gallon of water in a
: dishpan is relatively easy with a light dimmer and a coffee-cup immersion
: heater.
Ron: You're right. After re-reading my paragraph, I must have been up
too late that night and/or had my mind distracted on something else when I
proffered that opinion.
:
: : At present, the only cost-effective means of developing your own color
: : negatives is to mix your photochemistry from bulk chemicals, but that will
: : require a fair investment ($300 minimum between scale and chems), and
: : might be unreasonable to consider if you are just starting out in color
: : and especially if you are presumably just getting started in a home
: : darkroom.
:
: The chemicals aren't that costly either. A 3.5-gallon kit of
: Kodak Flexicolor C-41 Developer is about $20; add to that some acetic
: acid for stop bath, some potassium ferricyanide and potassium bromide
: for bleach, Kodak Flexicolor Fixer, and some Photo Flo for final rinse,
: and that's about it. You don't need a scale for the bleach chemicals;
: the accuracy for the bleach isn't that important. Considering the
: questionable C-41 processing results that I've seen from commercial
: photofinishers, I trust my process more. (For details, reply by E-mail.)
:
This is good information. I had based my opinion on non-Kodak offerings
by Beseler, Unicolor, etc., without bothering to check the pricing on
Kodak's. Apparently, that's where the brass ring was hiding.
The only point I might raise about buying a 3.5-gallon kit of Flexicolor
C-41 Developer is being able to use it up before the stuff oxidized on me.
However, at only $20 it's not a point worth arguing.
Anyway, what you pointed out here is worth reading. Once I can return to
finish the refining of my RA-4 formula, it'll then be interesting to do a
cost analysis of C-41 from bulk vs. Kodak Flexicolor. From what you've
listed here, the Flexicolor will likely win hands down, and that will be
the first time I've ever seen a prepackaged kit be more economical than
mixing from bulk.
:
: Finally, something else you'll will _definitely_ need is a Kodak "Color
: : Print Filter Viewing Pack." This is a packet of color viewing filters
: : that you can use to evaluate your prints with, in order to accurately
: : adjust your filterpack.
:
: I used one of these filter kits when I was taking a class to learn
: color printing. I never did find them particularly useful. To me, a
: home-made color ringaround series of a good negative was more helpful.
:
In this case, I would argue that it's perhaps "to each their own tools."
My technique has been to produce an accurate color print based upon VPS
and under the different lighting scenarios I'll find myself. I then start
off with the appropriate filterpack for that lighting scenario (which gets
me about 95% of the way there) and then make any minor adjustments as
needed using the Viewing Filters. I then finish off if need be by
burning/dodging with appropriate CC filters.
In any case, I would suggest to beginning color printers to try both the
Viewing Filters and your suggestion of a color ringaround series, and then
settle on a method that works best for the individual printer.
:
: : Bill Laut
:
: Ron Speirs
:
Bill