Looking for "fine-line developer" or recipe
Jim Hehmeyer
A friend of mine asked me if I know of a fine line developer. These are
a little before my time, and I can't find anything in my library. What
is a fine line developer? Does andyone have a recipe or one?
Thanks,
Jim
FotoRR
Kodak sold this product for Kodalith film. Produces a textured image with
careful use. Short tray life. I used it for negatives that were printed using
cyanotype, vandyke brown and gum printing methods. While I still have a few
packages- I haven't seen it for sale for quite a while. I would "love" to have
a formula to mix from raw chemicals--anyone have one?
Scott Dorsey
This is a litho developer that is intended for strong adjacency effect.
Kodalith Fine-Line is available as a graphics or a pro photo product from
Kodak and any professional dealer can order it.
--scott
--
"C'est un Nagra. C'est suisse, et tres, tres precis."
Jim Hehmeyer
Scott Dorsey wrote:
Thanks Scott,
I found the developer by searchig Kodak's web site for "Kodalith". I'll
go to a graphic printing supply store today. I'm still interested
finding a formula, as a small quantity is all that is going to be needed
and any one time.
Thank,
Jim
Frank Calidonna
Try this:
Water @ 90 degrees 500cc 16 oz
Sodium Sulphite, dessicated 30 grams 1 oz
paraformeldehyde 7.5 grams 1/4 oz
Soduim bisulfite 2.2 grams 32 grains
Boric Acid-Crystalline 7.5 grams 1/4 oz
Hydroquinone 22.5 grams 3/4 oz
Potassium Bromide 1.5 grams 22 grains
Water to make 1 liter 1 quart
Develop @ 68 degrees for approx. 2 minutes. I normally develop until I
see an image (most line film is ortho and you use a red safelight) then
let it sit undisturbed for 45 seconds then just enough agaitaion to
finish. This lets the fine detail come up, but does not overdevelop the
image.
You can also buy Kodalith developer in powder form in 1 gallon packages.
This comes in two bags to mix a part A and Part B. These are stirred
together in equal parts right before use. The A and B stock solutions
will last well over a year if kept stoppered and in the dark.
When development is finished quickly put the film into a lith stop bath.
That means a stop bath about twice as strong as usual - for instance 4
oz indicator stop to 1 gallon of water instead of 2 oz. Then fix until
the image clears then double that time. If it clears in 45 seconds leave
it in the fix for 1 1/2 minutes. Wash and dry. Take care.
Frank Rome, NY
SPECTRUM
I can't speak for Scott, but my interest in Fine line
developer has been for the enhanced edges that it produces. I.E. ,
mackie lines. Does this mix develop the same edge ?
Regards,
John S. Douglas
Spectrum Photographic Inc.
SPEC...@spectrumphoto.com http://www.spectrumphoto.com
William Laut
SPECTRUM (SPEC...@spectrumphoto.com) wrote:
: On Sat, 03 Jan 1998 11:06:14 -0500, Frank Calidonna: >>
: >> > [snipped to conserve bandwidth]
: >
:
: I can't speak for Scott, but my interest in Fine line
: developer has been for the enhanced edges that it produces. I.E. ,
: mackie lines. Does this mix develop the same edge ?
John,
I don't know if I'm confusing "fine line" with "high acutance," but if
not, a high-acutance developer I once experimented with was Crawley's
FX-1. It's rather highly energized for a negative developer, and as such
you have to be careful not to overdevelop. It's use of anhydrous Sodium
Carbonate tends to darken the film I use, and I eventually switched to
PMK.
Its ability to preserve minute detail impressed me. For example, I once
photographed some large sailboats that were drydocked for the winter. It
was late at night, I was across the street with a 35mm camera on a tripod,
and the only illumination was a single overhead streetlight.
There was a chain-link fence between the street and the boats. On extreme
magnification, you can clearly see the individual wires in the fence, and
the fabric pattern of the curtains in the boats.
: Regards,
:
: John S. Douglas
: Spectrum Photographic Inc.
: SPEC...@spectrumphoto.com http://www.spectrumphoto.com
:
Bill Laut