B&W from color negs
Jim Muehlberg
enlarger.
Could someone tell me where to start? I presume the filters should be
set at some starting point, then go form there. BTW, these are shots of
comet Hale-Bopp that turned out great in color!
Thanks for the help!
--
Jim Muehlberg
mueh...@plains.nodak.edu
Paul Friedman
You want Kodak's panalure paper. This is made for creating b&w prints
from color negs.
cure
<mueh...@plains.nodak.edu> wrote:
>I'd like to print some color negs in on B&W RC paper. I have a color
>enlarger.
>
>Could someone tell me where to start? I presume the filters should be
>set at some starting point, then go form there. BTW, these are shots of
>comet Hale-Bopp that turned out great in color!
>
>Thanks for the help!
>
>--
>Jim Muehlberg
>mueh...@plains.nodak.edu
Kodak makes a paper for this puropose. It's called Panalure and it's
available in (if I remember correctly) a low, normal, and high contrast
grade. You'll have to work under either total darkness or a #13 safelight
since this paper is panchromatic. Expect results similar to having shot
the scene on unfiltered b/w film to begin with. You may, if desired, use
filters under the enlarger lens (I'm talking about the filters you would
use when exposing the negative..ie..wratten #8, #12, #15 etc...) to obtain
effects that would be similar to the results had you used the same filter
on b/w film originally.
--
Michael Rubinsky rubi...@voicenet.com
Sewell, NJ http://www.voicenet.com/~rubinsky
"Dodging and burning are steps to take care of mistakes God made in
establishing tonal relationships!" -Ansel Adams
Paul Friedman
>
> In article <363CB6...@plains.nodak.edu>, Jim Muehlberg
> <mueh...@plains.nodak.edu> wrote:
>
> >I'd like to print some color negs in on B&W RC paper. I have a color
> >enlarger.
> >
> >Could someone tell me where to start? I presume the filters should be
> >set at some starting point, then go form there. BTW, these are shots of
> >comet Hale-Bopp that turned out great in color!
> >
> >Thanks for the help!
> >
> >--
> >Jim Muehlberg
> >mueh...@plains.nodak.edu
>
> Kodak makes a paper for this puropose. It's called Panalure and it's
> available in (if I remember correctly) a low, normal, and high contrast
> grade. You'll have to work under either total darkness or a #13 safelight
> since this paper is panchromatic. Expect results similar to having shot
> the scene on unfiltered b/w film to begin with. You may, if desired, use
> filters under the enlarger lens (I'm talking about the filters you would
> use when exposing the negative..ie..wratten #8, #12, #15 etc...) to obtain
> effects that would be similar to the results had you used the same filter
> on b/w film originally.
>
Hmmm, maybe I am wrong (yet again) but won't ne want to use the INVERSE
filter since
one is filtering a negative not a positive image?
Bruce McLaughlin
considerable longevity, perhaps the Kodak B&W paper that processes in
R-4 (I've forgotten the exact name of it) would work. It uses the same
filtration needed to make a good RA-4 color print and, of course, is
processed in the same chemicals but is a B&W print.
If a longer life span is desired, perhaps Kodak Panalure is the best
bet. It is pancromatic and must be handled in total darkness. But it
is the only way of getting good tonality from a color negative. You can
try to print the color neg on regular B&W paper but generally the
results are inferior. Of course, I'm assuming your originals are
negatives. If they are slides, then you should make a B&W copy negative
and use regular B&W printing paper.
Richard Knoppow
Actually not. Since _both_ the colors and brightness are reversed
camera filters will have exactly the same effect they would have on
the camera. e.g. a red filter will make blue skys dark. Since the
complement of blue is yellow a red or yellow filter will increase the
amount of light striking the print and darken that part of the image.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Outó
> You can
> try to print the color neg on regular B&W paper but generally the
> results are inferior. Of course, I'm assuming your originals are
> negatives. If they are slides, then you should make a B&W copy negative
> and use regular B&W printing paper.
I made some B/W prints from color negs,
on normal B/W paper, and they're very good,
some of them are with less contrast, but it fits.
And for making B/W prints from color slides;
there is no need to make negative copy,
refering to post:
Jeffrey Novick <jno...@sirius.com> wrote:
>I am told this works. I tried this technique using Potassium
dichromate +
>HCL as the bleach bath in the following procedure. It didn't work. I
am
>told the correct bleach to use is either Kodak Direct Positive Bleach
or
>Potassium dichromate with sulphuric acid. If anyone can corroborate
this,
>please do so.
>
>Print on bxw paper. Develop, stop, wash. Bleach, wash, re-expose
paper to
>light (flash), redevelop, stop, fix, wash.
>
>Let me know if you get it.
>
>Jeff
>
>Jeff Westhead wrote:
>
>> I would like to make black and white prints from colour slides. Any
>> thoughts? I'd like to avoid using film if possible. My only idea has
>> been to print the slide on paper and then contact print the paper
onto
>> another sheet, but obviously paper-to-paper printing is going to give
me
>> lousy quality. Is there a better way?
>>
>> --
>> Jeff Westhead -- Zoomit Corporation -- Toronto, Ontario, Canada
>> mailto:jwes...@zoomit.com -- http://www.zoomit.com
>> mailto:jeff.w...@pobox.com -- http://www.pobox.com/~jeffwe
>
>
>
I have some very old Kodak formulae for dirct postive development of
paper. I am posting them in case they are of interest. I have not
tried these and have no idea if they will work on modern paper. If
they do reversal processing of Kodak Panalure would provide a way of
printing directly from color transparencies.
Direct Positive Paper developer Kodak D-88
Water at 125F
750.0 ml
Sodium Sulfite, dessicated 48.8 gm
Hydroquinone
24.4 gm
Boric Acid, crystals (don't use powder) 5.6 gm
Potassium Bromide 2.6 gm
Sodium Hydroxide 24.4 gm
Water to make
1.0 liter
The Sodium Hydroxide should be dissolved separately in a small
amount of water and the result added to the mixture.
Caution, Sodium Hydroxide evolves considerable heat on solution.
Bleaching Bath Kodak R-9
Water
1.0 liter
Potassium Dichromate 9.4 gm
Sulfuric Acid 12.0
ml
Caution: Add the Sulfuric Acid slowly to the water. It evolves
considerable heat and can boil and splatter.
Caution: Potassium Dichromate can cause severe burns and ulsers which
are slow to heal. Handle with care using protective gloves and
clothing. Dicromates are carcinogens.
Clearing Bath Kodak CB-1
Water
1.0 liter
Sodium sulfite 90.0
gm
Note: Full strength Kodak Hypo Clearing Agent may work for this.
For use.
1, Expose the print.
2, Develop in the D-88 for about one minute.
3, Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
4, Bleach, will take about 30 seconds depending on the paper.
5, Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
6, Clear in clearing bath. Takes about 30 seconds
7, Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
8, Re-expose to fairly bright light.
9, Re-develop in the same developer used for first development.
10, Rinse in running water for at least 15 seconds.
11, Fix, in normal fixer for about 30 seconds (improves highlight
brilliance).
12, Wash. Fiber prints should be washed for at least 30 minutes.
Kodak also gives an alternative first and second developer when
Sepia prints are desired.
The alternative first developer is:
Kodak SD-2
Water at 125F
750.0 ml
Metol
7.5 gm
Sodium Sulfite, dessicated
56.3 gm
Hydroquinone
18.8 gm
Potassium Bromide
2.6 gm
Sodium Hydroxide
26.3 gm
Cold water to make
1.0 gm
Second developer for Sepia prints:
Kodak T-19
Water
1.0 liter
Sodium Sulfide (not sulfite) 20.0
gm
Re-development will take about 30 seconds.
The fixing step is not required when the sulfide redeveloper is used.
All solutions are to be used _full strength_.
Good luck, if you actually try this stuff please post the results to
the group and to me via e-mail.
It is possible that satisfactory results could be gotten by using
Dektol for both developing steps but D-88 appears to be a much higher
contrast developer than most standard paper developers.
Another possiblility is Ektonal, which is a carbonate-free developer
using Hydroxide (as these are) in combination with a Borax-Boric acid
buffer system.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Hope it helps
Robert
--
Blessed is the man who expects nothing,
for he shall never be dissapointed.
tun...@my-dejanews.com
Jim Muehlberg <mueh...@plains.nodak.edu> wrote:
> I'd like to print some color negs in on B&W RC paper. I have a color
> enlarger.
>
> Could someone tell me where to start? I presume the filters should be
> set at some starting point, then go form there. BTW, these are shots of
> comet Hale-Bopp that turned out great in color!
>
> Thanks for the help!
Kodak makes or at least made a paper called Panalure which is meant for this
purpose, but since it has to be handled like color paper (i.e. in total
darkness or under a special safelight that's practically invisible), I've
never considered using it.
Multi-contrast paper (Ilford Multigrade III or Freestyle Sales' Arista's
older version of their VC-which is the same thing) seems to work best, though
the results seem to vary from one neg to the next and often achieving D-Max
is problematic. Toying with filtration towards the magenta side might help
with this problem. Hope this helps.
(Freestyle sales: http://www.freestylesalesco.com. Source for specials and
cheap but good house brand film and paper.)
-----------== Posted via Deja News, The Discussion Network ==----------
http://www.dejanews.com/ Search, Read, Discuss, or Start Your Own
DLa7174711
(panchromatic) such as Kodak Panalure but I have made some good pix with
ordinary variable contrast paper. I usually need more contrast and longer
exposure than with regular negs.
Stuart E. Hirsch
Jim Muehlberg wrote:
> I'd like to print some color negs in on B&W RC paper. I have a color
> enlarger.
>
> Could someone tell me where to start? I presume the filters should be
> set at some starting point, then go form there. BTW, these are shots of
> comet Hale-Bopp that turned out great in color!
>
> Thanks for the help!
>
> --
> Jim Muehlberg
> mueh...@plains.nodak.edu
MEX1POL
5 or 7 years ago . wht i did was put a blank develop b & w negative on top of
the color neg. that u want to print, but u ll need tp print it on a b & w paper
not color paper ok ?? just some ideas that might help uu if not sorry.........
rick.