Kodalith Super RT developer??? More info.
e realisatie vzw
But they were related to development of lith film. So I should have been
more specific!
I'm looking for the Kodalith Super RT developer to make lith prints on
PAPER, not on
lith film. This process is described in the book "Master Printing
Course". In this process
heavily overexposed prints are processed in highly diluted lith
developer by "infectious
development" and the print is pulled out of the developer prematurely to
produce warm
coloured tones. The coexistence of soft warm tones and hard black tones
in the same
print is characteristic of lith printing.
Following the advice of the author, the Kodalith Super RT seems to be
the preferred
developer to achieve a successful lith print.
My question to the group is:
I need this KODAK Kodalith Super RT developer. However this developer is
not imported by KODAK Belgium! Does anyone know where I can get this
developer? If possible somewhere in Europe since I'm from Belgium. Other
suppliers who can mail me this developer are fine.
Thanks in advance!
Guy Van den Bril
e realisatie vzw - Belgium
http://www.poboxes.com/artgallery
Tim Rudman
interested to hear that I have just completed a new book entirely on lith
printing. It will be out in November. I hope it will take you painlessly
from beginner to expert! I will be happy to give you (or others) more info
if you want it, so I will try and keep an eye on this list for a while.
I can't give you a supplier of Super RT in Belgium, But I can give you
alternatives.
Fotospeed export a lot to Belgium - try their lith dev. LD20. It comes in
small quantities (500ml of A & B) and also contains instructions for lith
printing and more importantly it comes with additives to prevent pepper
fogging. This is a new problem affecting Sterling lith paper (Process Lith
in my book - there was no Sterling UK at that time) Pepper fogging first
appeared a year or so after my book came out, But is easy to deal with when
you know how.
You may also try Novolith from Champion. It comes in ! litre of A & B. and
there is a new lith dev just coming onto the market - MACOlith, from Hans O
Mahn in Hamburg. They are distributing throughout Europe.
Let me know if this helps. I have contacts in Belgium who may otherwise be
able to help.
Tim Rudman.
e realisatie vzw wrote in message <35C473DA...@poboxes.com>...
Richard Knoppow
Have you checked to see of Agfa makes a similar developer. Agfa is
heavily into the graphic arts field so must have a lith developer. I
suspect Agfa products should be easier to find in Belgium.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
e realisatie vzw
Thank you so much for your reply. This really helps!
May I also congratulate you with your book "Master Printing Course". Not many
darkroom books describe so many different toning and printing techniques in a
clear way like you do! I would recommend this book to any serious darkroom
worker. And I can't wait to read your next book on lith printing.
In the meantime I received an address from a company in London (Silverprint
Ltd.) that seems to have all the stuff I need. (Thanks Mr. Richard Ross!)
Could you perhaps explain in short what this "pepper fogging" is that you
mention in your previous message?
Thanks again.
Guy.
Jeffrey Novick
paper when it is developed in very dilute or old lith developer. It takes the
form of tiny black grain that appears all over the print, usually evenly. This
can be an added bonus or scourge, depending upon your point of view. The remedy
for this seems to be to add sodium sulphite to the developer. Tim has a lot more
experience than I as to amounts, etc., but I've found taking 25grams and adding
this to 250ml of water, and, then taking 25-50ml of this solution and adding to
about 1000ml of developer does the trick in removing the pepper fogging. If you
add too much sodium sulphite, it tends to produce flatter prints with a different
tonal structure. You must experiment with all of this as it is highly subjective
as to what looks good.
Hope this helps and good luck. This is a process that is not for everyone.
Jeff
Tim Rudman
Silverprint should be able to help you (you should have found their address
in the back of my book). You will have to pay postage though and I'm sure
you can get Fotospeed locally. You can mail them on
Fotosp...@compuserve.com if you have probs.
You will find an explanation (brief) of pepper fogging in their
instructions. It is random chaotic infectious development caused by lowering
sulphite levels below a certain threshold by diluting the developer. It is
virtually confined to Sterling Lith paper, although you can get a similar
effect on Kodagraph Transtar TP5 if you abuse the dev badly enough! All the
factors which contribute to best lith effects - high dilution, old dev etc -
also do the same for pep. fog. - Sod's law!
It takes the form of little black dots 'sprinkled' over the print
The cure is to add 10% sod. sulphite to your dev. i.e. say 50gm anhydrous
to 500ml water. It keeps poorly but is cheap and also a good 'hypo clear'
agent, so worth having around. Add equivalent vol as part A or B (except
MACOlith, in which case part A) or a bit less.
It may help to add a similar vol of 10% pot. bromide. This enhances the anti
PF effect but shifts the colour a bit away from pink towards yellow. It may
also double your dev time!
Doing this also greatly reduces highlight and border fog on Kentona, Art
Classic and Tapestry.
There's a lot more detail in the next book but this should help for now.
Tim
e realisatie vzw wrote in message <35C60783...@poboxes.com>...
Tim Rudman
Tim Rudman
and it's half a page long!
You must realise the difference between lith neg. work and lith printing.
They are 'chalk and cheese'. The only connection is that they both use lith
dev for its property of infectious development.
Lith neg. work is for the most part graphic high contrast work.
Lith printing is a flexible process using normal (or ESPECIALLY infra red)
negatives to give either dark moody prints or more commonly light delicate
prints that print soft in the highlights and hard in the shadows. They have
wonderful smooth creamy grainless light tones that are quite beautiful and
ultra warm tone with an astonishing response to toners.
It's one of my favourite processes, and sooo expressive. Everyone ought to
try it - but beware, it is addictive!
( I have to mention that I have a book on it coming out in November! If any
body interested, let me know.
Tim Rudman.
e realisatie vzw wrote in message <35C473DA...@poboxes.com>...
Jeffrey Novick
However, after doing numerous lith prints, I have a new found love for
cold toned, black and white printing. Change is good. Very good!!
Jeff
