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Gralab 300 repair: DIY?

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Philip Hiscock

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Jun 23, 2001, 5:29:20 PM6/23/01
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My not-very-old Gralab 300 recently started sizzling when in use and finally
gave up the ghost. It won't do anything... It's no longer under warranty,
so I'd like to fix it myself (its problem is likely a dirty switch that
might be cleaned quickly and free). But I cannot figure out how to get
inside the box! It appears to be rivetted shut.

Has anyone had any luck taking one of these apart (and putting it back
together again)? Any tips on how to open it without destroying the box?

Failing that, does anyone know of a Canadian repair place for these?

Philip Hiscock
hisc...@roadrunner.nf.net


Michael A. Covington

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Jun 25, 2001, 3:21:15 PM6/25/01
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"Philip Hiscock" <hisc...@roadrunner.nf.ca> wrote in message
news:9h31mb$rhn$1...@horsefly.nf.net...

> My not-very-old Gralab 300 recently started sizzling when in use and
finally
> gave up the ghost. It won't do anything... It's no longer under warranty,
> so I'd like to fix it myself (its problem is likely a dirty switch that
> might be cleaned quickly and free). But I cannot figure out how to get
> inside the box! It appears to be rivetted shut.
>
> Has anyone had any luck taking one of these apart (and putting it back
> together again)? Any tips on how to open it without destroying the box?
>

I wanted to modify the buzzer on mine and couldn't figure out how to open
the box either. If you discover anything, let me know!

FOR7

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Jun 25, 2001, 3:24:39 PM6/25/01
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Didn't also someone mention to you to drill out the rivets and then use sheet
metal screws to put it back together? That is your only alternative for your
riveted model.


E.T.
fo...@aol.com


Michael A. Covington

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Jun 25, 2001, 4:05:53 PM6/25/01
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> Didn't also someone mention to you to drill out the rivets and then use
sheet
> metal screws to put it back together? That is your only alternative for
your
> riveted model.

Ah. Thanks. My newsfeed was down for a few days and I missed part of the
conversation.

Sandor Mathe

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Jul 5, 2001, 10:09:05 AM7/5/01
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I opened my gralab to try and fix it once. I'm not sure of the model but it
was riveted shut with horrible plastic rivets. I managed to pry them off with
a screw driver, and they mostly survived to be put back in on re-assembly.

They have a spring flap of plastic that expands outwards after the rivet is
pushed through the hole. If you can catch that flap and compress it they
will slide out.

--
Sandor Mathe
san...@ca.ibm.com

Richard Knoppow

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Jul 5, 2001, 3:37:22 PM7/5/01
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Sandor Mathe <san...@enzyme.torolab.ibm.com> wrote:

These horrible plastic rivits are used in all sorts of electronic
equipment. Usually, by the time one needs to get to whatever they hold
they have dried out and become brittle. I don't think they are really
reusable. For some purposes, probably the Gra-Lab timer, sheet metal
screws are a better replacement. I think you may be able to get the
rivets at electronic parts or larger computer parts stores.
Both of my Gra-Lab timers have sheet metal screws holding the case
on. I guess they must be pretty old.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com

David Hall

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Jul 14, 2001, 3:38:34 PM7/14/01
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It's not really a big deal to service the Graylab-300 timers. The
timer is simply a small clock motor driving the pointer hands.
However, (yes, there is a downside) the exact motor may be difficult
to locate and buy at a good price. Try the surplus houses...do a web
search for that.

Some years ago, I modified one of my Graylabs so I could preset the
time I wanted to measure [developing time, for example] and start the
timer by just pressing a momentary switch. [When I was in a hurry, it
was more of a slap at the switch, but it has worked well for years.]
The timer starts and when the elapsed time expires, the timer simply
shut off as normal.

If you're interested, I'll open the thing up and make a drawing of the
exact modification [it's very simple]. I'm sure all the parts could be
bought at Radio Shack or similar store.

Don't worry about those verschluggener rivets, metal or plastic. Just
drill them out and replace them with stainless-steel sheet-metal
screws [about 3/8-inch, pan-head screws should do it. You won't hurt a
thing!

DaveinFLL

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