Darkroom construction question(s)
Craig Walters
and cold water, drain, space. I have provided for plenty of electrical,
stereo, phone. Custom cabinetry will include shelves, drawers, and
other storage space. Sink is single sink, deep, with a tall faucet to
allow large drums underneath.
What am I missing? Is a temp controlled faucet a mandatory? Forced
exhaust fans? A small frig?
Comments welcome.
Craig
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==================================
Craig Walters
mailto:cr...@hypercon.com
MacbethDiv
If you're building the house, do it right, all in all how much more will
it cost?
DEFINATELY have an exhaust fan. This is for your own health and also it
keeps fumes off of your equipment (leave the door open when you are not in
it if it is fairly air tight).
The small fridge is not necessary. Buy a freezer and keep a shelf for
yourself and the the rest leave for the family.
Macbe...@AOL.com
:-)
Tim Daneliuk
Craig Walters <cr...@hypercon.com> wrote:
>I am building a house with, of all things, a darkroom it it. AC, hot
>and cold water, drain, space. I have provided for plenty of electrical,
>stereo, phone. Custom cabinetry will include shelves, drawers, and
>other storage space. Sink is single sink, deep, with a tall faucet to
>allow large drums underneath.
>
>What am I missing? Is a temp controlled faucet a mandatory? Forced
>exhaust fans? A small frig?
>
I just finished a custom darkroom in my new house. Here is my 2 cents worth:
- If you're doing B&W I don't think you need a const-temp faucet.
- Seriously consider ceramic tile floors in your darkroom. They clean up
in a flash. You'll need a carpet runner or something on the tile
while working to reduce back fatigue, though.
- Make sure you provide for an outside exhaust vent (a dryer vent works
well) so you can install a light-tight exhaust fan in the darkroom.
- In addition to your deep sink, I would consider installing a long shallow
stainless steel sink. Mine is 7' x 30" x 6" and is really effective
in keeping the wet side organized and not slopping liquid all over the
floor.
--
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Tim Daneliuk / tun...@industry.net
Voicemail/FAX 847.827.1706
TW55
comments now, mostly relating to minimising contamination, but feel free
to E-Mail me with any questions as you go along:
*Stick an in-line water filter up stream of your main water input
*Cross ventilate, have a filtered input, low on the dry side, and exhaust
high over your sink(s).
*You can also place print drying racks under your sink with a rear vent
that helps pull air across as a drying assist
*Recommend a tall enclosed cabinet if you are going to be drying strip
film
*Have all electrical outlets put on GFI protection
*Decide which wall will be adjacent to your enlarger and build in
additional cross bracing for anchoring and stabilization
Tad Wesson
TW...@aol.com
Gumprint
Put a dead bolt on the door and another lock in the door knob (I have 4
kids).
Have a separate switch at normal height for a ceiling outlet. Use it for
your safelight(s).
Install the white light switch at seven feet so that no one (including
you) mistakenly turns it on at the wrong time.
Install your exhaust fan at the "end" of your sink on the wall so that the
fumes are drawn away from your face rather than up. Be certain the
electrician uses a side mount fan or the bearings will go on the ceiling
type mounted wrong. Vent it outside.
Allow for outlets over the sink so adding timers and electric wet
equipment won't be a problem.
Don't paint the room black. I've had black, grey and white walls and
counters; the later being the best for me. I test each paper for problems
with reflective light and adjust my sodium safelight accordingly. It's a
much cheerier place to work. Use gloss paint.
Install outlets every 3 feet over the counters. All the timers, radio,
light box plugs pile up and up; usually at one end.
Plan for a light box; built into the counter, hanging on the wall ala
dentist or where to stow it if you don't think you'll use it much.
Document the room before the drywall is hung so you can install shelves
and the like in the studs with some accuracy. Shelves have a way of
announcing where they need to be placed months after you think you're done
planning.
I had diffuculty finding the right temperature controlled faucet and used
a kitchen faucet. I wish I had explored further. The constant checking
during extreme weather makes washing annoying.
Since you are building from the ground up add a floor drain just in case.
Install a double length sprayer hose in the center of the sink ledge
rather than at one end so everything can be reached. I put the faucet at
the "end" (I work left to right) because that's where my washing takes
place.
Do have an in-line water filter.
If you think you may get into alternative processes [which use a bank of
uv lights] you can (later on) built it into a lower cupboard and run the
plug up through the counter top.
It's a good thread so far; glad you got it started :-)
C. Hollander
Fine Art Non-Silver Photography
Maryland, USA
email:GUMP...@AOL.COM
Joe Morris
>Put a dead bolt on the door and another lock in the door knob (I have 4
>kids).
(Safety Officer hat ON)
Are you recommending that the deadbolt be on the outside (to keep the
kids out when you aren't there) or on the inside (to make sure that
they don't open the door and let all the dark out while you've got
that box of 16x30 color paper out)? I'm worried about either idea.
If the idea is to put the deadbolt on the inside, there is the possibility
that it could cause problems in an emergency if you have to get out in
a hurry (fire) or someone has to get in (you're injured).
If it's on the outside, one of the kids could be playing with it and
lock you inside unless it's also got a knob on the inside of the darkroom.
You might want to consider using lock hardware intended for external
doors, which include both night latch and deadbolt mechanisms, and
which are designed so that rotating the interior knob automatically
retracts the deadbolt. For the interior knob, install an L-shaped
handle so that you don't have to grasp anything when it's time to
bail out in a hurry.
(Safety Officer hat OFF)
And along the line of reducing the chance that someone might open
the door at an inopportune time, install a warning light on the
outside of the darkroom, close to the door, and put a switch inside
that you can turn on to tell everyone that opening the door will
not be appreciated. A simple red lamp should be sufficient if
everybody is briefed about its purpose.
>Install the white light switch at seven feet so that no one (including
>you) mistakenly turns it on at the wrong time.
And consider adding a guard to the switch, even if it's well above
normal height. It doesn't have to be fancy; all that's needed is
to require that you take some additional step before you can move
the switch handle.
>Allow for outlets over the sink so adding timers and electric wet
>equipment won't be a problem.
(Safety Officer hat back on)
Be sure that *all* outlets that are anywhere near the wet side are
GFI outlets. The circuit breakers that feed this area (which should
be dedicated to the darkroom anyway) should also be GFI; this
requirement is written into many local electrical codes but should
be followed even if not required.
(Safety Officer hat back off)
Some other ideas...
I don't think it's been mentioned upthread, but don't forget the
problem of air *supply*. You'll need to get air into the room
to replace the air that's ejected through the exhaust; wherever
it comes from you should ensure that a filter is present to catch
airborne particles (especially from a central A/C plenum).
Run wires to connect speakers in the darkroom to a radio or other
audio source...and if the source is in the darkroom make sure that
it has no illumination in it. If the source is outside the
darkroom, put a volume control inside so that you can turn it
down.
Don't forget a telephone (preferably speakerphone) and/or intercom.
If you live in a hot climate and plan to do B&W work (or anything
that uses bath temperatures below ambient) you might want to consider
making space for an ice tub, either to serve directly as a cooling
bath or as a way to chill the water being delivered to the mixing
faucet.
Joe Morris
Keith Dowsett
> and anyone else outthere for that matter does anyone happen
> to have any darkroom blue print plans as a guide to look at.
> Our university plans on building a student union building and
> without any input they won't put even put a darkroom concept
> on the design table.
> I'm good friends with the Master Architect of the University and have
> told him that the University needs a darkroom, which by the way it
> doesn't have at this present time. So, I need some preliminary
> design layouts for a rather large darkroom in the next year or so
> and I want to scope out a few design concepts. I'm talk large
> as in a 10 to 15 enlarger station darkroom with the works for
> both color and B&W.
> Any input will be helpful.
>
> Thanks
> University of Northern B.C.
> PHOTOSOC President
> Arron Oberman
Hi,
I don't have any concrete plans for a large darkroom, just a few
suggestions from ones I have used/shared.
Firstly, unless you are very short of space use a 'light trap' instead of
a rotating door for the entry. When several people are printing and need
to take (wet) prints out to evaluate the doorway becomes quite congested.
Secondly, allow space outside for preparation and mounting. (It tends to
be where everyone congregates to chat and compare results). Build in some
stout lockers where people can store their materials. There's nothing
more annoying than returning to find your developer used up and your
paper gone.
Thirdly, install a chemical resistant floor with a drain which allows it
to be hosed down in the event of a major spill, and don't forget to make
provision for an eye-wash station.
Fourthly, install conventional lighting but place the switches somewhere
really inconvenient. The man who turns the lights on accidentally and
ruins everyone else's prints will be lucky to escape with his life ;-)
Finally, include plenty of air extract. Sooner or later someone will pour
sulphide toner down the same sink as acid (stop-bath). You'll soon know
if the extract doesn't come up to scratch then ｦ-[
Just a few suggestions, I hope they help.
Keith.
==========================================================
Keith Dowsett "Variables won't; constants aren't."
E-mail: kdow...@rpms.ac.uk
Phone: 0181-740-3162
Fax: 0181-743-3987
Snail mail: MRC Clinical Sciences Centre, Cyclotron Unit.
Hammersmith Hospital. London W12 0NN.
DKeysser
switch at the main entrance, to kill all power in the room.
Brian Lewis
seal out light and dust.
If you have concrete floors, paint them with that special floor paint. Anything
that is spilled will not penetrate, as it would with unpainted concrete. Also,
the painting prevents the concrete dust problem you otherwise will encounter.
I like the other poster's idea of ceramic tile; however, if budget is a
consideration, floor paint is a lot cheaper.
Make sure you have a coaxial connection for an antenna for your stereo.
Consider having the room plumbed for compressed air. It's nice for dusting off
negatives, and for airbrushing. It's even nicer when the compressor is in
another room -- they tend to be noisy.
Make sure the room has a floor drain. Although it may be too late for this.
If you're tray-processing prints, have a fixture installed above what will be
the fixer tray, for an inspection light.
Label each switch plate and outlet plate with the number of the circuit breaker
which controls it.
Use a water-resistant paint for the walls -- a semi-gloss works well.
Flat paint is to be avoided -- splashes will soak in.
Consider having a wall switch to turn on and off the *outlet* into which your
enlarger is plugged. Nothing screws up your day faster than bumping into the
"expose" button on your timer while you are loading film. It's a miserable
time to find out that your enlarger was left on.
Have your main room lights in sconces which bounce off the ceiling. It's a lot
easier on your eyes when you turn them on. Also, have them on a dimmer switch.
Have your safelights on their own circuit, so if a piece of equipment causes a
breaker to pop, you won't be left in the dark. For safelights, consider the
fluorescent bulbs with the filter. A couple of those can light up a fairly large
darkroom.
Definitely consider the temperature-control for water. It's a nuisance for
everyone else in the house when I tell them not to take a shower, start the laundry
or dishwasher, or even flush the toilet for the next hour until I've finished
processing film. I'm going to get the Hass Company's D-250 soon; stay tuned for
a user report.
For your enlarging table (if you don't have one already), make the top of it
the same color as the safelights. (Mine is "stopsign red" formica, and I use the
"cherry red" fluorescent bulb safe-filters.) This way, any reflected stray
light from the enlarger bouncing off the table top won't fog paper; and the
enlarger table top appears white under the safelights.
Brian
Barry Fikes
worth.
Around your wet areas, paint the walls and any cabinets for a few feet
above the splash area with clear polyurethane to help waterproof.
Thomas sodium vapor safelights are so nice & bright, one of those is
all you'll buy for all your safelight needs.
I have my enlargers mounted on a very short (12") and heavily braced
counter. In front of that I have a real heavy roll around counter
with shelves. My paper goes on the shelves and acts as a good weight
to an already robust piece of furniture. If I need to make large
prints all I have to do is roll it out of the way.
Rotatrim paper cutters do such a slick job of cutting finished prints
for a real professional presentation.
I have the output of my temperature controled water going out to
probably 6 different outlets with short hoses for individual needs.
On most of my larger darkrooms that I have built, I have always put
the sink in the middle of the room so it is easily assessable by all
printing stations.
Don't use cordless phones in a lab...they're way to easy to have
tucked between your ear & shoulder and slip into the fixer...and they
die when that happens.
Here's a hot tip on temperature control...aquarium heaters. These
little 120VAC glass heaters work for anything that you want to keep
either at working temperature or just below for quick warm-ups.
Clean-up stuff...I've found that Clorox and Whitewall cleaner
(Wesley's Bleche White) are great for the really hard to clean up
darkroom stains and color developers when the garden variety
recommended cleaners just won't cut the mustard.
I may think of more later, but these may help you.
Barry
Steve Alley
>- In addition to your deep sink, I would consider installing a long shallow
> stainless steel sink. Mine is 7' x 30" x 6" and is really effective
> in keeping the wet side organized and not slopping liquid all over the
> floor.
>
>
OK, Tim mentions the long stainless sink. Spendy, huh? Actually, if you're
looking for a superb sink, start checking with the local hospitals, county
morgue, etc. I bought an 8 foot long, 12" deep stainless autopsy table cheap
this way, and it comes with a supprt rack, completely plumbed for three
faucets, (included), these neat moveable/removable cross-sink supports (which
were actually the table top in its former life), and an instrument tray which
rises above the top of the sink about 18" and holds another tray, or whatever,
very nicely. OK, it's huge, but it is entirely stainless! It's about the
ultimate darkroom sink. The best part of all is that whoever eesigned this
thing planned on folks working long hours at it, so it's set up at a really
good height.
And we bought it for less than scrap value.
Now all I need is a palce to put it...
Steve
Gumprint
I'll pay retail for a plastic one.(Calumet UPS sink is under $200 I
believe)
But the autopsy table is a great idea for the strong of stomach.
Also try butchers, fish mongers and produce departments. Dead carrots I
can handle
,:- ) CH
Michael O'Henly
> In article <4jgs95$8...@Mercury.mcs.com>, tun...@MCS.COM says...
> >- In addition to your deep sink, I would consider installing a long shallow
> > stainless steel sink. Mine is 7' x 30" x 6" and is really effective
> > in keeping the wet side organized and not slopping liquid all over the
> > floor.
> OK, Tim mentions the long stainless sink. Spendy, huh? Actually, if you're
> looking for a superb sink, start checking with the local hospitals, county
> morgue, etc. I bought an 8 foot long, 12" deep stainless autopsy table cheap
> this way...
[...]
I've used stainless steel sinks and liked them but for one thing: they
can be noisy! I'm sure there are ways of dealing with that (maybe
mounting them on some kind of vibration-absorbing material) but I just
never got around to it.
The sink I'm using now is matte grey fibreglass and L-shaped: 10 feet on
the long side by 4 on the short, 30" wide and 10" deep. I had it made
locally by a fellow who builds sea kayaks. It was very inexpensive and
after a few years of no stains or leaks I'm still delighted with it.
Sea kayak manufacturing is pretty regional industry, but I think that
anyone uses fibreglass for marine applications could build one of these
to spec.
Michael O'Henly
-- o
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