Tmax B&W reversal process...
James E Kropp
I purchased the Kodak reversal process for the Tmax 100 B&W film, followed
the directions for mixing to a tee and completed two rolls of film with lousy
results in my jobo processor. The transparencies are "somewhat" reversed but
with mackie lines all over the place. They almost resemble solorized slides.
Im very disapointed with this chemistry. Has anyone any ideas on what is going
wrong? I followed the directions closely but gave up after the second roll of
film.
Any help is appreciated, and thanks to all who respond
James Kropp
Richard Poole
(James E Kropp) wrote:
Hi James,
My limited experience with this process (one kit to prduce a b/w audio
visual presentation) was a reduction in film speed and bad air bells in
black areas.
After testing the film was rated at a much lower speed and the air bell
problem overcome by placing the developer in the tank and then the loaded
spool into it. Rather than pour the solution into the tank.
After this the results were quite pleasing.
Which has nothing to do with your problem but I would check the density of
the reversed image and the strength of the reversal bath. In fact what
strength and amount did you mix the chemistry for using the Jobo.
Instead of the reduced amount of chemistry suggested for use in the Jobo it
may pay to incrtease this amount.
I'm guessing but this is what I would do.
My first couple of rolls were hopeless as well.
kind regards,
Richard Poole.
Tim Mathers
say you followed the instructions. Possibly some
residual chemicals were on the tank/reel(s)?
Timmy
"James E Kropp" <jimk...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20001231201846...@ng-md1.aol.com...
JW
for satisfactory results, however.
As I've mentioned several times before -- instead of reversing TMax, shoot it
normally and then make a positive (either with a duper or by contact printing)
with Technical Pan shot at ASA 200, developed about 9 minutes in HC110B. Much
easier, much more controllable and you have both negs and pos.
Jack
mrbe...@my-deja.com
Ron Speirs
: In article <20001231201846...@ng-md1.aol.com>,
seems unlikely considering a new kit. I have not used the "new" Kodak
kit; my experience was with the "old" kit back in the 1980's, and since
then I have mixed my own chemistry.
The old kit used a potassium dichromate bleach (yellow in color). The
new kit uses potassium permanganate bleach (purple in color) which I have
heard is not as effective; but the old bleach had some environmental
concerns.
If you have the willingness to experiment, you could find out what is
wrong with your process. After the bleach, the film is no longer
sensitive to light, and so you could observe the film through the
remaining steps. After the bleach (and rinses), the image should be
visible on the film, but the parts of the film that would be a black
image will be milky opaque white. But the image should be clearly
discernable. Exposing it to light at this point is actually an alternate
in some processes to the chemical reversal step. The second developer
then turns that milky opaque white image into a black image. You
should be able to observe all of this.
If you do this experiment, write back with your results, and I'll see
if I can help you.
Ron Speirs
rsp...@xmission.com
Richard Knoppow
You might check with Jobo about using this process with their
equipment.
Air bells are from bubbles forming on the surface of the film. That
is usually the result of inadequate agitation. The Mackie lines and
partial reversal also sound like inadequate agitation causing
incomplete bleaching of the image. Speed loss is common when reversing
material not specifically designed for it.
Jobo systems are used all the time for color reversal material so,
one would think they would work for B&W also, although the bleaches
are somewhat different.
---
Richard Knoppow
Los Angeles, Ca.
dick...@ix.netcom.com
Paul Moshay
-- I have not used the Kodak kit in years as it is very expensive and I can
mix the chemistry for a much lower price and the film is used at it's rated
speed resulting in excellent slides. If you want I will email the formulas
and all the additional data for you to use. Best to you, Paul Moshay
p1...@aol.com
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