Paint, stain, and snakes
sj...@lehigh.edu
I have recently built an enclosure out of douglas fir plywood and I was
planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
python. Anyway, the guy at the store recommended that I leave the wood
untreated because of the paint/stain fumes. I was thinking that those
fumes wouldn't be too bad since I was planning on using a low-solvent, low
odor stain-sealant. I had also wanted to have at least a relatively
water-resistant surface. Can anyone steer me in the right direction on
this?
TIA
Scott Goldman
sca...@amoco.com
cheep. You can get it at K-Mart, Wal-Mart. When I lay it, I have the cage in pieces,
its easier that way. I also do the sides and back and seal the joints with silicone sealer.
Its great stuff, I have done about 20 cages. It also comes in a lot of colors. I have used
varnish before and it took forever to air out.......Steve...
Rebecca Sobol
Hi,
I have recently built an enclosure out of douglas fir plywood and I was
planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
python. Anyway, the guy at the store recommended that I leave the wood
untreated because of the paint/stain fumes. I was thinking that those
fumes wouldn't be too bad since I was planning on using a low-solvent, low
odor stain-sealant. I had also wanted to have at least a relatively
water-resistant surface. Can anyone steer me in the right direction on
this?
TIA
Scott Goldman
SJ...@LEHIGH.EDU
http://www.lehigh.edu/~sjg4/sjg4.html
I like formica over the plywood, sealed with aquarium sealant. Some other
non-toxic paint or sealant may be used though. Untreated wood will be a problem
so you should do something with it. Even with the non-toxic aquarium sealant
I let the cage "cure" for about a month before housing the snake in there.
Rebecca Sobol
so...@ofps.ucar.edu
http://www.atd.ucar.edu/rdp/ris/ris_herp.html
Barry Roomberg
>
>Hi,
>
> I have recently built an enclosure out of douglas fir plywood and I was
> planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
> python. Anyway, the guy at the store recommended that I leave the wood
> untreated because of the paint/stain fumes. I was thinking that those
The guy is a bozo. It'll be impossible to keep untreated
wood clean, parasite free, mold free, etc. Also, sealant will make sure
that there are no toxic fumes coming from the wood (more of a problem with
ceder).
It'll take a couple of days for the sealer to dry, and then you are
left with a plastic coating and absolutely NO fumes.
Tien-Yee Chiu
> I have recently built an enclosure out of douglas fir plywood and I was
> planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
> python. Anyway, the guy at the store recommended that I leave the wood
> untreated because of the paint/stain fumes. I was thinking that those
> fumes wouldn't be too bad since I was planning on using a low-solvent, low
> odor stain-sealant. I had also wanted to have at least a relatively
> water-resistant surface. Can anyone steer me in the right direction on
> this?
You *definitely* want to seal the wood one way or another as otherwise
you're going to have serious problems with cleaning and/or disinfecting
the cage afterwards. (There are also arguments back and forth over whether
pine plywood gives off anything that's harmful to reptiles, especially when
heated continuously by a heating pad.) I use Varathane and epoxy paint
(and let it dry a few days) myself, but contact paper...that's an idea...
might be hard to apply if the wood weren't perfectly smooth, though.
I *like* the idea of sealing the edges. Maybe I'll have to try that
next round...
Tien Chiu
ch...@ugcs.caltech.edu
Tony Berke
: > sj...@Lehigh.EDU writes:
: > Hi,
: >
: > I have recently built an enclosure out of douglas fir plywood and I was
: > planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
Linoleum and silicon sealant works well. I've also used contact
paper and silicon sealant as already suggested, and that seems to do a
good job also.
Best,
Tony
Dawn Elaine Lausa
I know one person who sealed a home-made wood enclosure with polyurethane
marine varnish. He has been using it for years to house snakes and
semi-wet species of lizards and salamanders (not at the same time). It is
still waterproof
(except where something actually chewed on it once). Just let it air well
after applying the sealer.
Jennifer E. Swofford
by sj...@Lehigh.EDU
> planning on sealing it. This enclosure will be used to house a ball
> untreated because of the paint/stain fumes. I was thinking that those
> fumes wouldn't be too bad since I was planning on using a
low-solvent, low
> odor stain-sealant. I had also wanted to have at least a relatively
> water-resistant surface. Can anyone steer me in the right direction on
> this?
I highly recommend polyurethane varnish. (Although I have just survived
Day Four [of eight] of the New Iguana Cage Varnishing Ritual, so I'd
rather not see it ever again after it's done....) Anyway, use 3 or 4
coats of polyurethane varnish. It's the stuff that's used on floors.
There are several brands - I happen to like Sears Best clear satin
finish. I've also used Minwax polyurethanes - Minwax makes both regular
clear polyurethane and a stain/varnish mix. It's a little stickier than
the Sears Best clear satin, but it's pretty easy to use. (Satin = the
least shiny varnish.) After it's dry, there isn't any problem with
fumes. I mean, as I said, it's the stuff that's used on wood floors.
You can let it sit for days or weeks if you really want to be sure. ;)
But I plan on getting my $%@*(@ iguana cage put together and iguanas
inside as soon as I get the last coat on. :)
By the way, here are some finishing tips for the woodworking impaired:
thoroughly sand the wood surface with at least 150 grit sandpaper (be
careful with veneered plywood, as that veneer ain't thick!). Remove
dust, apply a coat of varnish with a natural bristle brush. Gently sand
by hand with at least 220 grit sandpaper, just to get the bumps off.
Apply another coat or two, hand sand again, and then apply the final
coat. You now have a smooth, beautiful, safe cage surface. :) (Clean
natural bristle brush with turpentine.)
Good luck!
Jen Swofford---...@cmu.edu--------iguanidae@aol.com
To access my green iguana FAQ, try:
http://gto.ncsa.uiuc.edu/pingleto/herps/iguanacare.html