Brittany Spaniel: eating everything in sight
Baldy Cotton
>Yesterday I took the dog for a walk around the neighborhood and noticed that the dog has a very
>stubborn habit of gulping down almost anything along the way that he can find.
I own a Brit, (Petey, aka Jean Pierre Chien) and that was normal behavior with Petey also.
But I trained him out of it.
>He walks with his nose nearly touching the ground and gulps
>down things before anyone can stop him.
Only "before" if you're not paying attention.
>The dog is both fast and sneaky and will also growl if we try to
>pull his head up and away from something he is trying to gobble down.
He's a Brit, and he's doing what he was bred to do. Hunt with his nose.
BUT BUT BUT BUT BUT!!!
I see that he has YOU trained so that you believe his rules are:
"I, as Alpha Dog, am allowed to eat anything I want off the ground. No one can stop me as I am fast
and sneaky and growl and threaten if you try to stop me".
The growling IS a threat and is the FIRST thing that has to stop. Only one person can be top dog.
You or him. He's already decided he wants the job. You need to change his mind. Dogs don't mind
being second or third or last in command, but it's very very hard for them if they don't know the
rules. Think of it like a child who wants to play with the stove. You MUST make him stop and learn,
and it can be done without pain.
The eating from the street will keep happening until one of three things happens.
One: He will eat something poisonous and die.
Two: You become so miserable, that you just stop taking him for walks.
Three: You train him to stop it.
The first two will happen automatically.
Here's how to do the third one: First, teach him to heel. VERY hard with a Brit because he was
born to be in front of you hunting for quail. But you can do it with extra persistence. Always
make him heel.
Does he sit when told? If not, you have a dog that will always be a problem,
and it is NOT the dogs fault. Take him to a class or hire a trainer to help or at least get a good
training book. Ask local friends who have trained dogs.
Walk him on a short leash. Every time he goes to grab something, snap back at the leash. Don't try
to break his neck, but let him know that it's very uncomfortable to reach for garbage on the ground.
Don't let him get it. And keep walking. Always make him heel.
If he still picks something up off the ground, whether it's a stick or a candy wrapper or a piece of
poop, grab his mouth and hold it shut until he cries. No pain needed. The message you want to
teach him is that anything on the ground he picks up stays in his mouth until he can stand it no
longer. When he puts it down, praise him for doing so and walk away. Always make him heel.
I live in a safe neighborhood, but my Brit ALWAYS heels. It's all he knows by now. I can just
drape the leash (and we ALWAYS use a leash) over my shoulder, and he won't walk away from me.
Imagine how nice walks will be for you and him when he's trained. You won't have a dog with poop on
his lips and he won't have an owner yanking and pulling and yelling and being miserable.
Another thing that's very cool is that Brits are so smart that after a while, I realized he would
happily respond to hand signals to sit, lay down, gimme paw, and heel. When we play in the yard, I
can get him to go in one direction or the other just by pointing.
I hope I've emphasized how very very important it is to train your dog. You'll both be so much
happier.
Jerry Howe
"Baldy Cotton" <baldyc...@mchsi.takethespamout.com> wrote in message
news:71s7gu8qdmknq20kr...@4ax.com...
<snip tripe>
> I see that he has YOU trained so that you believe his rules are:
> "I, as Alpha Dog, am allowed to eat anything I want off the ground.
> No onecan stop me as I am fast
> and sneaky and growl and threaten if you try to stop me".
And I see you're stupid enough to take a challenge between
a dog and what's he got his nose into. Good way to get hurt
and end up killin your dog cause you're scared if IT.
> The growling IS a threat
You're a idiot. The growling is FEAR. YOU are the threat.
> and is the FIRST thing that has to stop.
That's rigth. But it won't. You can't stop intimidating and
fighting and alienating and killing dogs that offend your
superior alpha mentality and trains you to roll on the
floor fighting and growling into its throat and biting it
on its ears till it pisses itself, to prove you are the
intelligent human being.
Don't worry, it's not your fault, you've been misled
by our Nazi Contingent of dog lovers like our professor
SCRUFF SHAKE dermer and lying frosty dahl and
and rescuers like janet bosses john richardsons and
mikey balls..
HOWE'S my punctuation and wordiness, professor scruff shake?
> Only one person can be top dog.
Yeah, that's Jerry... but that's no accident, Jerry's EARNED
the position and shares the power freely... Welcome student!
> You or him.
That's exactly correct. And that's HOWE COME I learned HOWE
to make it both of us or not at all, cause HURTING dogs is a
crimnial behavior, not training..
> He's already decided he wants the job.
You're gettin the pink slip right now...come back when
you understand human nature better and are able to
use the human mind you was issued prematurely
and operate without training.
> You need to change his mind.
NO. The dog's mind is only doin what Mother Nature tells
IT to do when threatened...by YOU.
> Dogs don't mind being second or third or last in command,
Right. Dogs don't ever think of such nonsense, HOWE COME
you do? That's YOUR HUMAN NATURE provoking you to fear
the dog and all you do not understand, most expecially yourself,
as I expose you to your SELF, here. Wish it was EZ but it's a
tough pill to swallow. Take big gulps and try to relax. It'll be over
EZ if you let it, or it may choke you to death if you try to spit it
out...
> but it's very very hard for them if they don't know the rules.
The rules that they're to be molested for doing natual normal
instinctive reflexive behaviors that you take offense to because
of your superior HUMAN NATURE that provokes you to compete
with the dog or child who'll pull your chain and waltz you by your
willie to their tune??? Hmm?
> Think of it like a child who wants to play with the stove.
Think of it as a goddamned animal and use your human mind
to freakin OUTWIT IT instead of justfying HURTING it cause
you're too scared and too stupid to get outta your own way.
> You MUST make him stop and learn,
> and it can be done without pain.
Well, that's a switch! Ooops! I forgot where we are.
> The eating from the street will keep happening until
> one of three things happens.
> One: He will eat something poisonous and die.
Like stan the man did to his dog, but they operated and
she pulled through and diddler, who locked her dog in
a box in an outbuilding for three nights to muffle her
cries for help with a twisted gut. She started SHITTIN
BLOOD before our expert trainer diddler notice her
dog was freakin SHITTIN THE BED on her from destructive
anxiety chewing...an ocd behavior cause by mishandling
call abuse, or traditional training methods.
> Two: You become so miserable, that you just stop taking him for walks.
> Three: You train him to stop it.
> The first two will happen automatically.
Indeed. Works both ways.
> Here's how to do the third one: First, teach him to heel.
> VERY hard with a Brit because
Because you don't know HOWE to train a dog. A dog is a dog.
> he was born to be in front of you hunting for quail.
> But you can do it with extra persistence. Always
> make him heel.
Driven not to heel? Yeah? Persistence? Make him heel?
> Does he sit when told?
My dogs get a little testy when folks TELL them stuff, like me.
> If not, you have a dog that will always be a problem,
Cause it won't sit when you're trying to make it heel to
get its nose off the ground cause he's supposed to be
in front but he's at your side and eatin stuff off the ground
because of stress? O.K. Thank you for the lesson on theory.
Where's the method for training this unusual pattern?
> and it is NOT the dogs fault.
Right. We're gonna blame us instead of the dog...for
following the instructions our experts from the universities
tell us?
> Take him to a class
Well, we got marie who just finished over a year in
training and the dog assaulted a skateboarder a
couple days after class, cause she's outta control.
Nessa is about to start "training" with janet boss,
that ought to prove very entertaining. I'd be lookin
for Nessa to get hurt behind her dog biting her like
leah's dog or Cubbe snapping a child because they
walked into her shock zone...
> or hire a trainer to help
Oh? I guarantee all my FREE training from sittin right here
stark ravin nekkid.
> or at least get a good training book.
Our dog lovers recommend koehler, at least ed w of
petloss dot CON and professor scruff shake and well,
our entire Gang Of Thugs, as stated. Look for our
professors sig file of the CIVIL posters from whom he's
learned much, and I'll show you each one is a proven
liar and dog abuser.
> Ask local friends who have trained dogs.
This is a very difficult behavior to break. My methods will
break it in a couple days... GUARANTEED.
> Walk him on a short leash.
That's sheer idiocy. The dog will becme moore excited
and moore out of control.
>Every time he goes to grab something, snap back at the leash.
I thought you said you was gonna do this without hurtin the dog.
Are you a liar or am I expecting too much in terms of freakin
HONESTY? No wonder you folks get The SYNDROME so fast
as you do... some of ya already got it on your first post just
knowin HOWE freakin stupid you're gonna sound.
I swear, our dog lovers gravitate here just because stupidity
and dishonesty is a rpdb CONVENTION, not that they're
gonna ever try to actually train their dogs... just look at our
experts callin my students liars cause they cure their
behaivor problems almost instantly.
> Don't try to break his neck, but let him know that it's
> very uncomfortable to reach for garbage on the ground.
To make IT want to pay attention and love you and always
follow you to the ends of the earth and beyond, to enhance
the bond between trainer and dog, as sindy "don't let the dog
SCREAM, cover its muzzle and tell it not to be such a moaner,"
as she pinches its ears is fond of saying.
Now if you want real training advice for this problem, I
recommend you simply reverse lying frosty dahl's
STICK FETCH WITHOUT THE SHOCK COLLAR.
That'll make IT "really dig OUT" as you fire his ass up a bit.
> Don't let him get it.
Yeah, that'll turn into a game of keep away.
> And keep walking.
The dog will need to be dragged...
> Always make him heel.
By giving it a sharp jerk?
> If he still picks something up off the ground, whether
> it's a stick or a candy wrapper or a piece of
> poop, grab his mouth and hold it shut until he cries.
To teach it to trust your hands and not growl at you?
> No pain needed.
Oh? I disagree. YOU NEED PAIN, and I'm here to HURT
you like NOBODY ON EARTH CAN, not even your daddy.
> The message you want to teach him is that anything on
> the ground he picks up stays in his mouth until he can
> stand it no longer.
That's outta your koehler book, isn't it? You got the method
but no follow through. You'r supposed to tape ITS mouth
shut for a day, let the dog scratch his face off trying to
get the stuff outta its mouth.
> When he puts it down,
He'll pick up another, this dog has ocd... you can't force
control cause the dog will only get worse.
> praise him for doing so and
> walk away. Always make him heel.
Yeah... HOWE??? You gonna encourage IT with a little
moore jerking and choking?
> I live in a safe neighborhood,
Nothing around the likes of you is safe...
> but my Brit ALWAYS heels. It's all he knows by now. I can just
> drape the leash (and we ALWAYS use a leash) over my shoulder, and he
> won't walk away from me.
AMAZING! You can train your dog to walk!
> Imagine how nice walks will be for you and him
> when he's trained. You won't have a dog with poop on
> his lips and he won't have an owner yanking and pulling
> and yelling and being miserable.
You mean after you've hurt IT enough.
> Another thing that's very cool is that Brits are so smart that
> after a while, I realized he would
> happily respond to hand signals to sit, lay down, gimme paw,
> and heel.
Yeah. But this problem is a little deeper than walking...
> When we play in the yard, I
> can get him to go in one direction or the other just by pointing.
Or you'll jerk and choke IT.
> I hope I've emphasized how very very important it
> is to train your dog.
No, but you certainly did that for humans. Thanks!
> You'll both be so much happier.
INDEED! Unless you get scared embarrassed or guilty
and come down with The SYNDROME, then you could
have a lot of pain...forever. Jerry.
HOWEDY John,
"John Shultz" <jandm...@netspring.com.uk> wrote in message
news:3d0342b7...@news1.lig.bellsouth.net...
> My uncle has a year old Brittany Spaniel. Yesterday I took the dog for
> a walk around the neighborhood and noticed that the dog has a very
> stubborn habit of gulping down almost anything along the way that he
> can find.
Sounds like a case of Pica. There's a bit of info on the net, seems
it's a common side effect of pregnancy or something. I wouldn't
bother chasing after any dietary cures, although it's possible there
may be some relief in mineral supplements, I've never seen any
remedy in them, but I'd be willing to try, were my behavioral
conditioning techniques not to be effective... which cannot be
the case if we apply the METHODS properly.
> He walks with his nose nearly touching the ground and gulps
> down things before anyone can stop him.
BECAUSE you TRY to stop him. Your efforts to control his
behavior teaches him to get the stuff faster than you can
catch him. That's HOWE COME marybeth's dogs eat poo
right outta each other's butts, so she can't stop them from
getting it when her untrained dogs crap the floor, and she
punishes them for doing so.
> The things I saw him eat were: poop, paper, leaves, small bits
> of wood, a gum wrapper, more poop, even more poop and countless
> other things. My uncle says he does this all the time, especially
> with dog/cat poop and he can't get the dog to stop.
Poo eatin is a bit different than pica... but the treatment is the same.
> The dog is both fast and sneaky and will also growl if we try to
> pull his head up and away from something he is trying to gobble down.
Right... don't do that. There's moore going on here than just the
issue of pica or whatever eatin he's got. This is an OCD, a
behavior problem caused by stress, a habit the dog has developed,
moore likely than a 'straight case' of "pica."
> This dog gets plenty of good quality dog food, is not underweight and
> the vet said he is is good health at his last checkup a few weeks ago.
Right, we got a behavioral problem that may have some dietary
deficiencies related to it. Let's work the problem as a behavior
quirk, and then if we don't get it under control we'll look for a
dietary cause.
> Is this just a Brittany thing
No. A dog is a dog. Anybody tellin you any different is doin
so cause they don't know behavior and blame the breed.
> or any ideas how to stop gobbling down
> things he should not be eating?
Yeah... BWWWWAWAAAHAHAHAHAAA!!! GOOD LUCK!
Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and can't break their
own dogs of eatin poo, or they wouldn't have told my students
Paul and Marty they'd NEED to HURT their dogs MOORE than
they'd LIKE to break coprophagia (poo eatin).
Paul says:
No one understands how Wits End training really works, they assume it's all
nicey nicey and don't realise it's a very disciplined method that deals with
any situation and the foundation is built on trust and understanding
---------------------
HOWEDY Paul,
Might seem like that, but it's really MAGICK. VooDoo, actually. j;~)
Here's my Disciple Paul on eating garbage, but you can substitute
any behavior problem from eatin poo to stealing off the counter
or sleeping on the sofa, barking, digging holes, jumping fences, anything:
From: Paul B (NOSPAMpa...@clear.net.nz)
Subject: Re: Dog vs cat food (stealing cat food)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
View: Complete Thread (16 articles) | Original Format
Date: 2001-03-03 22:18:03 PST
It's possible to teach a dog not to eat out of a cat bowl without too much
difficulty.
My dogs don't touch the food in the cat bowls although Roz licks up any bits
that have been dropped around the bowls :-)
I used a can with stones in it to create a distraction anytime the dogs
tried to eat the cats food, followed with immediate praise. It worked a
treat. The cats bowls are down all the time, usually there is food left
over but the dogs don't eat it, even if we go out and leave the dogs with
access inside through a dog door.
Paul
--
Obedience and affection are not related, if they were everyone would have
obedient dogs.
See the dogs, cats, us and pics of NZ etc at my homepage.....
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/paulbousie/index.html
Updated regularly (last time 23 Jan 01) so keep coming back!!!
"Paul B" <pan...@zfree.co.nz> wrote in message
news:3c2a...@clear.net.nz...
> Bollocks, the manual has no dangerous suggestions at
> all, people who find the manual useful are those that
> don't need to control a dog to satisfy their own ego
> but simply want a well behaved dog that is easy to
> live with. I would suggest the people who follow the
> advice in his manual are people who have already
> tried other inefficient methods and are fed up with
> the poor results.
> The more I think about the methods he suggests the
> more sense it makes, the biggest problem is people
> believe they have to be in control of the dog, tell it
> whats right and wrong, dogs don't understand
> our values and I don't believe they are capable of
> understanding them either, so to train them we use
> methods they understand. That means abstract
> training, doing sometimes what appears to
> almost be the opposite of what makes sense to us.
> If you are purely result orientated then you will not
> find Jerry's manual much use, if you love your dogs
> and love to work WITH them then his manual is
> your dream come true. Distraction and praise works
> with any dog, when you sit back and really think about
> it, it's very obvious why.
> When a dog is properly distracted (and praised) of a
> particular behaviour then that behaviour very quickly
> becomes unfulfilling so the dog will no longer have any
> interest in pursuing it, whether we are about or not,
> thats the key to stopping garbage can raids and food
> stealing etc etc, no force, no bad dog, just distracting it
> in an appropriate manner that it no longer wishes to
> pursue that behaviour.
> Better than hiding the garbage can eh?
> Paul
All the comments below were posted publicly and are verifiable...
and I got hundreds moore just like em... and you know it. Jerry.
Chris Williams writes:
"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual I do find valuable.
Much of it I recognize as what I've always done without thinking of it
as "training". New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased
the last of Mac's fireworks trauma."
Dave Cohen <coh...@total.net writes:
Re: Barking Deterrants Needed...
Hi. Please understand that I do not know Jerry and have spoken with
him briefly once by email.
I have no stake or interest in the success of his business. I simply
want to thank him publicly for one of his tips, with regards to
separation anxiety. I thought it seemed far fetched to praise a
stuffed animal and then say good bye to my own dog, but I am
usually a very open minded person, so I tried it. Well, lo and behold-
the damn trick worked!
I think Jerry has some intriguing techniques, and personally I think
everyone who constantly criticizes him is not understanding his
logic. Thank you Jerry!
"misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:6786-3C0...@storefull-231.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> Thanks Tricia9999, that was an interesting read! Course my little
> gray box seems to be working... Buddy stopped biting the baby! No
> negative side-effects seen occurring...not to the bird, the other bird
or
> Zelda. ~misty
> "Charlie Wilkes" <charlie...@easynews.com> wrote in message
> news:pjaootcg8dgrptuu9...@4ax.com...
> I read up on rotties, pitbulls, etc., and quite a bit of the
> literature suggested I needed to assert my dominance and "make
> the dog earn everything it gets." I tried this once or twice, just
by
> taking a stern tone of voice, and the results were terrible. The pup
> got scared and just wanted to stay away from me.
> That's why I support Jerry Howe and his FREE Wits' End Dog
> Training
> manual -- that and the fact that Jerry is an all-around great guy.
> The core takeaway I got from Jerry's manual is this: make yourself
> the center of your puppy's world -- his personal Lord Jesus. Never
> give him a reason to fear you or think you're angry. Love the heck
> out of him, and you'll end up with a great dog.
> This has truly worked with my puppy. She'll do anything I want
> > her to, if she understands, because she trusts me 100 percent,
> and nothing is more important in her world than her relationship
> with me. http://www.geocities.com/viscouspuppy
> Charlie
> misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
> news:6946-3B6...@storefull-233.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> We just installed a PetSafe brand fence this Spring. Two dogs,
> two collars We now have one dog and no collars.
> Peach and Zelda would run thru the fence, not want to come back
> in the yard and would run for days. The last time, Peach didn't
> come back home.
. I used the Wit's End Training Manual to learn how to train my dog.
> She is now border trained. A few minutes each day reinforces
> her desire to stay in the yard. She no longer runs out into the
> road, I can stop her from chasing cats and she no longer cringes
> when we walk around the yard.
> I can not say loud or long enough how much I hate the e-fence
> and its collars. If you can't get a regular fence then you need to
> train your dog. I will never rely on an electronic collar to keep my
> dog in our yard again. The price was too high:-(
> > ~misty
> "Jerome Bigge" <jbi...@novagate.net> wrote in message
> news:v3ba0ucam1kr4moca...@4ax.com...
> I've read over Jerry Howe's "Wit's End
> Dog Training Manual" now several times.
> And while everyone will get something a
> bit different from it, I found that his "hot &
> cold" exercise (first part of manual) is in
> my opinion the "key" to the entire thing.
> Once you have taught your dog (puppy)
> to keep an "eye on you", then the rest of
> its training (come, etc) becomes much
> easier. Additionally Jerry does point
> out "why" dogs do the things that they
> do. So even if you don't like Jerry's
> posts, you might like to download his
> manual (it's free, after all!) and give it
> a look over. You might learn something.
> > It's at "http://www.doggydoright.com"
> My Boston Terrier puppy would chew up the newspaper
> until I used the techniques in Jerry Howe's manual to
> train her not to do it. Simple distraction and praise.
> You may not agree with all he says, but the manual
> is well worth reading even if you don't use all of it.
> Jerome Bigge
> NRA Life Member
> Supporter of National Health Insurance
> CompTIA A+ Certified Computer Technician
> Author of the "Warlady" & "Wartime" series.
> Download at "http://members.tripod.com/~jbigge"
"misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:1199-3BD...@storefull-235.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> Jerry has taken the time to help me out off the NG. I have a very
> loud cockatoo who has been having problems adjusting to my 8
> month old son.
> Joey is learning to walk. He likes to use Buddy's cage as a hold on
> for dear life object.
> Buddy wasn't exposed to toddlers prior to Joey.. my older two boys
went
> through this stage in a different house where Buddy had his own room
> and the boys had only visits, not daily contact 24/7.
> Buddy has always been spooked by "tiny" humans. Joey has been driving
> him nuts! He showed his disapproval by non-stop screaming. A
> cockatoo scream can be heard a block away with all the widows
> shut <g> being in the house it makes your ears pop and your nerves
> crawl.
> Jerry sent me Free his DDR. He sent instructions on how to use it.
> He answered my questions quite politely.
> I have been using the DDR in my kitchen ( where Buddy is located~
> teensy 4 room house) for 3 weeks.
> At first I noticed no difference in Buddy's behavior. Then I realized
> after a week that he no longer screamed for hours on end. This isn't
> to say he stopped completely <bg> he still demands his share of all
> meals. But he doesn't start screaming at 10 pm when he wants
> _everyone_ to go to bed.
> Last week he had a day where he screamed all day. My nerves were
> frazzled. I went to turn the DDR up a notch per Jerry's instructions.
> I discovered the DDR was shut off! I turned it back on and left it on
> the lowest setting. Buddy calmed back down and quit screaming.
> In the time that I've had the DDR on I've had a lot of c*ts come to my
> house. One I adopted and he's quite the sweetie. He's a yellow tiger
> named Gatomon ( means c*t monster) who is very friendly with my kids
> and Zelda.
> I may not like how Jerry treats other posters but I do like the
> methods he shares. Being on a limited budget I like things that are
> free. I also like the fact that I can e-mail him and get advice
whenever
> I need it.
> Even my DH who is a technical minded kind of guy thinks the DDR is
> working. ( He went to Devry and has a degree in electronics, knows
> alot about radios and anything mechanical... he's a jack of all trades
> around the house <g>). He does NDT for a living.
> We don't expect to need the DDR forever.. As soon as Joey is walking,
> Buddy will realize that he's not a strange animal.. some kind of
> furless dog or c*t <bg>.
> So, yes, there are some of us out here who do appreciate Jerry's
> methods if not his condemnation of other "regulars". Honey, flies
> that sort of thing....
> ~misty
Dear Jerry-
I just wanted to let you know how wonderful your Doggy Do
Right product is. I was skeptical at first, but have been
tremendously pleased.
As you know, we had a neighbor's dog that was extremely
bothersome, at times barking loudly for 3 hours straight.
Within a few days, the barking decreased, and now it is just
the occasional bark. this dog lives approximately 500 feet
away, and even at that distance, the machine has done wonders.
You were always available and patient to answer my
questions, and now I can be in my own home without going
nuts from the barking. As an added pleasure, all the other
minor barking nuisances in the neighborhood have stopped
as well.
Quiet is wonderful! Thank you.
Pam Graves
Hi Jerry,
I received email from Mark Shaw on 10/6 which I just read today.
Sorry I didn't have time to get to it sooner. We have had a lot
going on in our area concerning animals. We formed a new Task
Force to address spay/neuter, pet overpopulation and animal
abuse. I needed to do a lot of research before the first meeting and
time was just not available for anything else.
Anyway the letter went on to say that we are in collusion, I tried
to defraud him, and have sent none of the materials that he has
asked for although he has yet to furnish the P.O. Box number that
he wanted them sent to in the first place. He goes on to state that
I am no longer eligible for the "fictions reward." All of this is in
answer to postings that prove I was "sharing" his email with you
which in his opinion was a breach of good manners. His email only
had terms and conditions of the reward which I would consider
"public information."
Be that as it may, I would like to state that you had my permission
to post any email I have sent you regarding DDR including this
email.
I'm very sorry that you have to put up with this type of situation
from someone that obviously never intended to make good on his
reward offer in the first place.
I had a call from a friend of mine with a very aggressive cat. I
have loaned her my DDR for a few weeks to see if it will calm JR
down. I will let you know the results. She goes to the same holistic
vet that I go to and he is also interested.
In case Mark does post to the list again I would like to say that I
do very much believe that DDR will help JR as I know it has helped
my dogs and cats. I have entirely too much to do, to worry about his
opinions or reward.
The only reason I was willing to apply for the reward was on your
behalf as I do think your product is a valuable tool in helping with
aggression and other behavior problems.
I am in Feral Cat Network (we spay and neuter approximately 100
feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC dog
obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club, president of
Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for Care and Welfare of
Animals (on the board are: county commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from
AKC dog club, CFA cat club, assistant County manager, head of
animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.).
I listed these not to be on an ego trip but to let Mark know that I
am involved with animals and have very little time to play games
with him also I would not recommend your product if I did not
believe in it.
Please feel free to post this email as it has no copyright on it as
did Mark Shaw's last email to me.
Take care Jerry and don't let the Mark's of the world get you down.
Elaine
Thank you, Elaine. I have been trying to educate the mark's of this
world, with some occasional successes. I guess that's variable
reinforcement?
Yours, Jerry.
Hi Jerry,
I wrote to you a week or so ago about the unit. I have since
borrowed one from Elaine Mc Clung. She speaks very
highly of it.
So, I brought it home and plugged it in. Of course, I
wanted it to come on, all the barking stop, and have every
one immediately fall to the floor in little comas for a few
hours. Well, after I got all 27 of them to be quiet, still no
comas. But, it had only been 36 seconds at that point. So,
I gave it a little longer. Still no comas. Was this really
going to work? I mean, I do have an unusual situation.
So, by bedtime, a few hours later. I started to notice just
how many were asleep already - with their feet in the air! I
started to have hope. During the night, all was calm. In the
morning when I got up, only a few of them WALKED quietly
to the door to go out. Not the usual evacuation.
I had the unit from Sunday afternoon until Tuesday
Morning. I was certainly pleased with the night effect. I
wasn't so sure about the amount of the day time effect.
Until I took it back. Within half an hour, the monsters had
resurfaced. I wondered if I could break into Elaine's house
and if she would notice :)
I know another person who does dog rescue. She rescues
Beagles. She has 23 in an 1100 square foot house. God
bless her. She is interested to see if it will work for her. I
also spoke to someone else who does cat rescue, and
she is interested. The cat rescue people have monthly
meetings. Maybe Elaine could give a word or two about it.
So, if there are any words of advice you can send my way
about the best way to use it in my case, I would appreciate
it. I of course wanted to keep it on the highest setting, but
don't know if that is advised, even with my situation of so
many new ones coming and (too few) going.
Also, how I and others can go about getting one, etc. I
think the vets should have the info in their offices. It must
help dogs with separation anxiety. My vet practices
homeopathic as well as traditional medicine, so I
would think it would be right up her alley.
Thank you.
Desiree M Webber
A New Leash On Life
Elaine McClung, President of Pet Rescue, Animal Commissioner Brevard
Co., FL writes: Sep 9, 2000
"I ordered from Jerry a long time ago.. He was helpful and
the order was filled promptly. Yes, Doggie Do Right does
indeed exist.
I "had" a very aggressive female Pit.. She was showing
aggression not only towards Dok, Rhodesian Ridgeback,
but our cats and even us.
She now plays with Dok, even to the point of allowing him
to take a toy or bone from her. She no longer shows any
aggression towards us. She is showing some aggression
towards the cats but that is down to a warning growl.
It is not just my opinion that all this aggression existed
before Doggie Do Right as we were advised by three vets
to euthanize her.
I do very much believe that DDR will help JR as I know it
has helped my dogs and cats. I do think your product is a
valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior
problems.
I am in Feral CatNetwork (we spay and neuter approximately
100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC
dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club,
president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for
Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county
commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat
club, assistant County manager, head of animal control,
director of two different shelters, etc.).
Thanks, Elaine,
From: 2tails (waggi...@hotmail.com)
Subject: My Experience with the Doggy Do Right (And Kitty Will Too)
Newsgroups: rec.pets.dogs.behavior
View: Complete Thread (271 articles) | Original Format
Date: 2001-07-04 20:45:19 PST
After using Jerry's training manual, I became curious about the
Doggy Do Right (DDR) machine, and a few weeks ago I received one.
I thought the group might be interested in some things I've noticed
since using it. (This is a bit of an understatement as I certainly
expect a flurry of responses... most of them will probably be nasty.
But we'll see.)
Anyway, at first I would leave it on only when I left the house, but
one day I forgot and left it on all night. My dogs used to wake me up
between 8 and 8:30 a.m. The morning after I left it on all night, they
slept until 9:30 a.m. At first I wondered why they had slept in so
late, and then I noticed that the DDR was on.
(And no, I'm not an early riser.) :-)
Now they consistently sleep until 9:30 or 10:00 a.m., unless I wake
them up earlier. One night the power went out, and the DDR was
switched off. They woke me around 8:30 that day.
The second thing was something my husband noticed. If the light on
the DDR is flashing, it is in "rest" mode... when it's solid, it is
playing the program. He came home, the dogs were doing their usual
growl and "bitey face" rowdiness... when the machine's light became
solid (program on), they laid down in the same room with the machine.
Pepper even laid on her side and started taking a little nap.
Often, I will see the dogs in the room with the DDR when the program
is playing, usually around their nap time. That is, they will nap in the
same room as the machine and not in other areas of the house... even
though their "preferred" sleeping spot at other times seems to be my
bed.
The last two things I've noticed have been with my 7 yr old Dalmatian,
Beau. He is normally terrified of thunderstorms, so much that he will
try to crawl into my lap, or he will shake and shed hair everywhere.
(Shedding hair is a symptom of stress I suppose... he does the same
thing at the vet's.) On Sunday, we had a really severe thunderstorm,
with hail, etc. When the storm began, I turned the machine to play
mode. He laid on the floor next to where I was sitting. He still
didn't want to let me get out of his sight, but his behavior was much
improved from earlier episodes.
The last thing has to do with Beau and the vacuum cleaner. The
surest way for me to clear him out of a room used to be for me to start
vacuuming. He'd race into another room and hide. Now, he will stay
in the same room. He's still wary of it, and leaves his "escape route"
open, but he will stay in the same room while I'm using it,
something he's never done before.
I've done no training to address these issues, but since using the
DDR for approximately three weeks, these are some of the calmer
behaviors that I've noticed.
As I said, I'm sure this will create a storm. May I say in advance,
that only polite posts will be considered for a response by me.
Regards,
Lisa
Subj: Re: attack dog blues
Date: 12/18/01 4:42:05 PM Eastern Standard Time
From: To: Witse...@aol.com
Sent from the Internet (Details)
> Hello D.,
> Thanks for using my manual. Do all the exercises and
> get the come command
> installed properly as a conditioned reflex. Ask me
> for help if you need any.
> When you've developed the leash handling skills so
> that you're not restraining him on the lead, you should
> be able to break all his aggression using the distraction
> and praise techniques, and rely on the come command
> if he fails to distract.
> It's kinda like being a one armed paper hanger, but
> you should be able to do it. Perhaps you've got a
> family member who'll help.
> Ask me when you've got the basics down pat, and then
> we can look at some specific exercises to
> finish him up if necessary. Jerry.
> You'll probably reach me faster sending email to
> jho...@bellsouth.net
Hey Jerry-
Thanks for the tips. The constant praise is quite effective.
Jose does well on the leash and will seem fine upon approach
of another dog but still wants to seemingly kill other dogs when
within biting range. Do you feel that a muzzle would be
counter productive during this training?
I'll keep on it! Thanks again for the response to my
first mail. Take it easy- D.
================
> <"Terri"@cyberhighway
> > Hey, do like me, and killfile Jerry.
> > He has millions of people aleady reading his posts and
> > watching him extract his soggy foot out of his mouth!
> > Out of these MILLIONS, I've only seen 2 naive childs
> > come forward and actually believe in his training manual.
> Robert Crim writes:
> I assume that I and my wife are those two naive childs since
> I freely admit to having read and, I hope, understood enough
> of the manual and it's counterparts by John Fisher and the
> posts of Marilyn Rammell to believe and use it. This naive
> child would like to say thank you to both Jerry and Marilyn for
> putting up with a constant barrage of really infantile crap at
> the hands of supposedly adult dog lovers.
> The other naive child (LSW) has to put up with the nagging
> idea that if people like them had been posting earlier, maybe
> we would not have had to hold the head of a really
> magnificent animal in our arms while he was given the
> needle and having to hug him and wait until he gasped
> his last gasp.
> To my mind, "naive" is believing you can terrorize a dog into
> good behavior. Naive is believing that people that hide
> behind fake names are more honest than people that use
> their real names. Naive is thinking that dilettante dog
> breeders and amateur "trainers" like Joey (lyingdogDUMMY,
> j.h.) are the equal or better than those that have studied and
> lived by their craft for decades.
> "Stupid" is believing that people do not see kindergarten
> level insults for what they are. Really stupid is believing that
> people like Jerry Howe and Marilyn Rammell are going to
> just go away because you people act like fools. Why do you
> act like fools? I really have no idea, and I don't really care.
> > And, to date: I've not seen ONE come forward and actually
> > admit to buying and having success with his little black
> > box.
> I think I'm going to get one myself for Father's day and take
> it down to the Animal Shelter for their use and testing. You
> would never believe the results, so you'll never know.
> > Anyone by now that doesn't see a scam man coming by
> > Jerry's posts deserves to get what is sure to be coming to
> > him! LOL!
> I don't see a "scam man", so I guess I and Longsuffering
> Wife and Rollei will just have to get what we deserve, eh?
> As Joey (Dogman) says, "poor Rollei.".......right.
> >Terri
> Yes it was, and that is sad.
> Robert, Longsuffering Wife and Rollei (do I get to listen to the box
> first?)
To BIOSOUND,
4/13/01
Any chance on more rapid shipping? Neighbors have filed
complaints and bark collar not working. Desperate, and I have heard
this product works well. Please advise. Judy
Hello Judy,
The training methods in the free manual available on my site are
fast and effective. If you still have the dog you're planning on
giving up, you might want to reconsider and try the handling and
training techniques I teach. I'll give you additional help teaching
them on the phone if you need it. Jerry.
4/14/01
Thank you for your response to my inquiry. With your assurance that
shipping will be immediate, I have just now placed my online order,
invoice #. Today, I had to get rid of one dog due to barking and
signs of aggression and am hopeful Doggy Do Right will eliminate
the need to get rid of my son's dog. Thank you, again. I am
anxiously awaiting delivery. Thank you so much for your offer.
4/15/01
I returned "Hunter" to the humane society yesterday. BUT, I am
considering getting him back due to your encouragement. They will
keep him for three business days, (Tuesday), and if he is not
adopted, it will be day by day after that. I will call them Monday.
I don't want him destroyed and if the Doggy-Do-Right and the
manual work as well as you say, there may be hope for him.
He is a 16 month old Husky.Shepherd cross and my son is really
down that we had to take him back. My problems is that our Aussie
cross thinks she is the alpha dog and so does Hunter, so they
sometimes get into it between themselves. I have the rest of the
weekend to ponder a decision. Thanks again. Judy
4/15/01
Hello Judy,
The problem between the two dogs should be easy to address. If
that's your biggest concern, I'm certain you won't have any
difficulty with just a few changes in the way you address their
behaviors. Just ask if you need help with the manual. You'll see
immediate improvements from just doing the preliminary exercises.
Jerry.
4/25/01 4:04:59 PM
> I have seen some good progress, and I have been consistent
> with "good boy" whenever he takes any notice at all.
Good. Got to praise him before he pays attention. In the same breath
as you might say "no" or sound a can or clap or snap the fingers,
the praise must follow instantly, regardless of his behavior and
continue for five to fifteen seconds or till the behavior resumes.
Call me if you'd like, I can go over the timing, tone, and tempo and
any other problems you might have.
> things are definitely looking up.
> Thanks again, Judy
Good, I've been thinking of you today. Here's some housebreaking
advice and don't forget the attachment. j;~}
5/01/01
Hi Jerry: When I said the dogs go running, I probably should have
said the halos pop out. They don't act afraid and I try to praise
them whenever I am silently moving the cans so they don't become
afraid.
Tippy is afraid of loud noises anyway, so I try to minimize the
sound. I do back up or walk away when Hunter stares at me and then
he USUALLY comes. Can't thank you enough for your input and
help. Judy
There. One happy family. j;~)
> Doggy Do Right and Jerry Howe
> I just recently looked at this newsgroup and I found it
> incredible. I do have a Doggy Do Right and have had it for
> about one year. It truly does work - at least on my Dobe,
> Chelsea. Chelsea was the unhappy recipient of several failed
> attempts at obedience training, both in a "class" environment
> and with a personal trainer. She is very high spirited and
> strong and, unfortunately, spoiled, since we are an older
> couple who doted on our dog. We were lucky enough to find Jerry
> Howe and to not only buy a Doggy Do Right, but to also have him
> personally work with Chelsea.
> His methods are wonderful and effective. Chelsea is not a dog
> that you will bully, and I wouldn't dream of hurting her. After
> Jerry spent time with her, she no longer jumped on furniture,
> ate food off the counter, pulled me incessantly on the leash.
> She is calmer and we are all happier. Well, it is a very long
> story and I won't bore you with all the details, but suffice it
> to say that Jerry Howe saved the day for our dog and for us.
> Marge Hoffman. (REWARD PAID BY DW.)
> P.S. You can send me the reward money, but I won't sell you my DDR!
Jerry Howe
You think hurtin the dog is training?
"John Shultz" <jandm...@netspring.com.uk> wrote in message
news:3d03dbae....@news1.lig.bellsouth.net...
> Baldy Cotton <baldyc...@mchsi.takethespamout.com> wrote:
> >Someone famous whose name I don't recall wrote:
> >>Yesterday I took the dog for a walk around the neighborhood and noticed
that the dog has a very
> >>stubborn habit of gulping down almost anything along the way that he can
find.
> >
> >I own a Brit, (Petey, aka Jean Pierre Chien) and that was normal behavior
with Petey also.
> >But I trained him out of it.
> >
> >>He walks with his nose nearly touching the ground and gulps
> >>down things before anyone can stop him.
> >
> >Only "before" if you're not paying attention.
>
> Thanks, like I said this is my uncle's dog. This is the first time
> I've ever walked him. I'll be here another week, will be walking
> Rikko again tomorrow. I can go to a pet store tonight, should I get
> any special collar or leash or anything to help with the training?
>
TO...@dog-play.com
> Thanks, like I said this is my uncle's dog. This is the first time
> I've ever walked him. I'll be here another week, will be walking
> Rikko again tomorrow. I can go to a pet store tonight, should I get
> any special collar or leash or anything to help with the training?
A head halter will give you control over his head with no jerking or
direct confrontation. You can prevent, distract and redirect more easily.
Don't just stop the dog, redirect it to something else desireable, ask for
a behavior e.g. sit and reward with anything the dog finds rewarding -
food treats, toss a ball, play a quick game of tug. There is nothing
wrong with NOT tugging on the dog but instead loosening the leash (I like
a 15 foot cotton webbing lead for such training) and walking rapidly
backwards calling the dog in a happy and excited voice, then asking for a
behavior (could even be a trick like roll over or shake hands) then reward
reward reward. The critical thing is to keep an eagle eye and distract
*just* as the dog notices but before the dog makes any second move to it.
Tough, I know, but the better you are at timing the more likly you are to
be successful. Everytime the dog succeeds he is re3warded even if you
aren't the provider of the reward do it is a tough one to break. The only
hope is to be consistent and observant early on.
Diane Blackman
http://www.dog-play.com
Jerry Howe
<TO...@dog-play.com> wrote in message
news:XtVM8.9499$T_.2...@iad-read.news.verio.net...
> In rec.pets.dogs.behavior John Shultz <jandm...@netspring.com.uk>
wrote:
> > Thanks, like I said this is my uncle's dog. This is the first time
> > I've ever walked him. I'll be here another week, will be walking
> > Rikko again tomorrow. I can go to a pet store tonight, should I get
> > any special collar or leash or anything to help with the training?
> A head halter will give you control over his head with no jerking or
> direct confrontation.
Mind explaining SCIENTIFICALLY HOWE restraining a dog
from his OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE BEHAVIOR DISORDER
is going to CURE the cause of this behavior?
> You can prevent, distract and redirect more easily.
No, you incite further ANXIETY and DETERMINATION to
accomplish the the OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE DISORDER.
> Don't just stop the dog, redirect it to something else desireable,
Like his OBSESSION?
> ask for a behavior e.g. sit and reward with anything the dog finds
> rewarding -
His obsession would be the ONLY thing MOORE rewarding, as
THAT is his OBSESSION, the PROBLEM you're "dealing" with
by REPRESSION, which exacerbates and overstimulates the
ORIGINAL CAUSE.
It's not much different than you tellin us to cut poo in half
lengthwise and fill it with hot sauce, Master Of Deception
blankman...
> food treats, toss a ball, play a quick game of tug.
Or you could just beat the dog in the face with your shepherd's
crook, couldn't you, Master Of Deception, blankman?
> There is nothing wrong with NOT tugging on the dog
You mean in preference for beatin the dog in the face
with your stick, like as if you was trying to stop your dog
from attacking the innocent sheep you loose him on to
molest?
> but instead loosening the leash (I like a 15 foot cotton
> webbing lead for such training) and walking rapidly
> backwards calling the dog in a happy and excited voice,
To break IT from his OBSESSION?
> then asking for a behavior (could even be a trick
It'd have to be one heel of at TRICK, blankman...to cure
an OBSESSIVE COMPULSIVE DISORDER without
addressing THE CAUSE of the behavior, Master Of
Deception, blankman.
> like roll over or shake hands) then reward reward reward.
Quite a trick. Evidently you've never seen a dog with OCD?
Except your own, of course who are out of control and
THAT'S HOWE COME YOU SHOCK CHOKE AND BEAT THEM.
Isn't it, blankman?
> The critical thing is to keep an eagle eye
The critical thing is to recognize a liar and dog abuser
tellin us to do wrong, knowing your suggestions will
provoke moore anxiety and cause the OP to NEED
to HURT his dog when the frustration of "doin everythin
right" as you recommend FAILS, because you are
a LIAR and a dog abuser, not because you don't know
any effective methods, because you do, because I've
PROVEN the EFFECTIVE METHODS which you LIE
about because they tie your hands as you try to beat
and choke and shock your dogs... and teach us to do
liewise, so YOU will not look like the evil doer you are.
> and distract *just* as the dog notices but before the dog
> makes any second move to it.
That's ALMOST correct, Master Of Deception blankman.
HOWE COME you only give HALF MEASURES here,
Master Of Deception blankman?
That's The SYNDROME, blankman. You're a LIAR and
you WANT our people to have these problems to JUSTIFY
YOUR OWN ABUSES.
> Tough, I know,
You ain't seen TOUGH, blankman. You're finished misadvising
our posters here so you won't face ridicule for being a dog abuser.
> but the better you are at timing the more likly you are to
> be successful.
Doin what? Distracting the dog from his obsession using
FORCE??? You're a liar and a dog abuser, blankman.
> Everytime the dog succeeds he is re3warded even if you
> aren't the provider of the reward do it is a tough one to break.
Naaaah, that MOORE BULLSIT! The problem is not that some
behaviors are self rewarding, the problem is that you do not
have EFFECTIVE METHODS to TRAIN the dog. You are
MOORE afraid of the behavior becoming ingrained than
training the behavior not to happen, cause you HURT the
dog on his first instance of the behaviors you fear because
you do not have any METHOD. You're full of crap and you're
INTENTIONALLY LYING TO US to defend your METHOD of
shocking and choking and beating dogs to train them.
> The only hope
HOPE? LUCK? CHANCE?
> is to be consistent and observant early on.
No, that's your LIE. The only hope is to NOT CAUSE
stress and anxiety which produces OCD behaviors
as was recently proven at Purdue.
> Diane Blackman
> http://www.dog-play.com
Now get the heel outta here you lying dog abusing Thug. Jerry Howe.j;~)
You're a proven liar and dog abuser... you got a lot of nerve posting to our
dog lovers news groups:
"Many People Have Problems Getting The Pinch Right, Either
They Do Not Pinch Enough, Or They Have A Very Stoic Dog.
Some Dogs Will Collapse Into A Heap. About The Ear Pinch:
You Must Keep The Pressure Up" sindy "don't let the dog
SCREAM" mooreon.
"Warning: Sometimes The Corrections Will Seem Quite Harsh And
Cause You To Cringe. This Is A Normal Reaction The First Few
Times It Happens, But You'll Get Over It." mike duforth, author:
"Courteous Canine."
"I have heard advice stating that you should pre-load your dog for Bitter
Apple for it to work as efficiently as possible. What does this mean?
When you bring home the Bitter Apple for the first time, spray one
squirt directly into the dog's mouth and walk away. The dog
won't be too thrilled with this but just ignore him and continue
your normal behavior."
--Mike Dufort
author of the zero selling book
"Courteous Canines"
Yeah. When I preload my dog's mouth with bitter apple,
suppose I don't get used to being stupid and cruel, mikey?
Then HOWE do I train my dog if I can't HURT it?
And from terri willis, Psychoclown wrote:
"Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is
something you twisted out of context, because you
are full of bizarro manure."
> > > Jerome Bigge writes:
> > > I do know that hitting, hurting your dog will often make the
> > > dog either aggressive or a fear biter, neither of which we
> > > want to do.
> > And neither does anyone else, Jerome. No matter what Jerry Howe
> > states.
> > --Matt. Rocky's a Dog.
> > You're scary Marilyn.
> > Marilyn must be quite a disturbed individual. I feel very sorry
> > for her and her family.
> > BUT, giving you the benefit of the doubt, please provide a quote
> > (an original quote, not from one of Jerry Howe's heavily edited
> > diatribes) that shows a regular poster promoting
> > or using an abusive form of training.
> --Matt. Rocky's a Dog.
"Marshall Dermer" <der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu> wrote in message
news:a3h5qn$mra$1...@uwm.edu...
> >Di,
> I don't believe you mentioned a particular kind of training. If you
> are interested in training retrieval behavior than do consider
> our own Amy Dahl's:
> The 10-Minute Retriever : How to Make a Well-Mannered, Obedient and
> Enthusiastic Gun Dog in 10 Minutes a Day
> by John I. Dahl, Amy Dahl
You failed to mention your pals the dahls are proven liars and dog
abusers, professor "SCRUFF SHAKE:"
"I Would Never Advise Anyone To Slap A Dog I Do Not Believe There
Is A Single Circumstance Ever, Where Slapping A Dog Is Anything
But Destructive," "I don't see why anyone would want to choke or
beat a dog, or how any trainer could possibly get a good working dog by
making them unhapper, fearful, cowering, etc." sez amy lying frosty dahl
who continues:
> just $17.95 at Amazon.com.
> (Also, it is best to killfile posts from the few regulars here who
> are either ill-tempered, ill-mannered, or just plain ill.)
> --Marshall
amy lying frosty dahl continues:
"On the other extreme, the really hard dogs we have trained
require much more frequent and heavy application of
pressure (PAIN j.h.) to get the job done,
This is continued resistance to your increasing authority, and the
job is not done until it is overcome
Get A 30"- 40" Stick.You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it
yourself. Tougher, less tractable dogs may require you to progress to
striking them more sharply
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar, even the
buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will give in
but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to escaping the
ear pinch
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your thumb
even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against that
Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that resisting
your will fades in importance.
CHUCK IT Under ITS Chin With That Ever Ready Right Hand,
As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch. When the
dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally reliable without
any ear pinch, you are finished
This is continued resistance to your increasing authority,
and the job is not done until it is overcome" If the dog drops it, chuck
it solidly under the chin, say "No! Hold!"
(stay on the ear until it does) (perhaps because the ear is getting
tender, or the dog has decided it isn't worth it)" lying frosty dahl.
"Chin cuff absolutely does not mean slap," professora gingold.
From: Marshall Dermer (der...@alpha1.csd.uwm.edu)
In article <38CC0C43...@earthlink.net> rhur...@earthlink.net
writes:
>> -snip headers etc.
>> Yes. you're right, I really should find the book.. they don't have these
>> books in the local pet stores I frequent, where do you find Koehler?
>I got a nice large print copy from Amazon.com
>Richard
Please try Powell's Books in Portland Oregon. Their URL is:
Unlike Amazon.com, Powell's keeps both new and used books on
its shelves. You can order books via e-email.
Koehler Method Of Dog Training
by Koehler, W R
Published by HOWELL BOOK HOUSE (0876056575,
========================================================
Here's some quotes and some methods right outta your koehler book professor
"SCRUFF SHAKE:"
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book House," 1996
William Koehler
BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING
The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain
you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were
against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet
them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in
his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more
emphatic.
We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one
that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at
familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from
a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of
temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his
mouth.
But you won't make the permanent impression unless you
supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he
thus acquires. Make sure these opportunities don't always come at
the same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet
hour" and pursue his old routines at other times.
With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs
with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As
was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not
lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more
discriminating, increase it.
The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because
you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical
for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater
to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed
the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little
ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.
Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort
doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a
stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will
also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog
drags it around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a
man's leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular
dog a good tanning.
Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember,
you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and
neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does.
Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going.
When you've walked to a point where he'll think you're gone but
where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If
you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful
not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog's hearing to be many times as
sharp as yours.
When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so
you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally
impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of
"out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area.
Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've
conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to
dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are
raised off the floor or, if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him
up with a hitch on something. While he's held in close, lay the
strap vigorously against his thighs.
Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real
whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat
performances that will be necessary.
When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on
a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After
fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the
area again.
So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great
percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end
up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've
always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they
"cry out," than to "put them to sleep."
You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your
dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range
bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat
the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.
It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that
you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a
full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he
gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble
on your inconsistency.
After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will
be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him
without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just
a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling.
Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you're hiding
nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you
have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe
his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be
watching and listening for the signs of your actual going.
Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing
clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the
family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a
block or two from your house so you can come back and park within
earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you've
returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool
the most alert dog.
Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the
house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving
off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has
reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when
you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before
you presume your dog requires a more severe correction.
O.K. marie. After perfecting the above, you'll need this:
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training (1962). New York: Howell Book
Book House(p. 52-53)."
Hanging
"First, the trainer makes certain that the collar and leash are more
than adequate for any jerk or strain that the dog's most frantic
actions could cause. Then he starts to work the dog deliberately and
fairly to the point where the dog makes his grab. Before the teeth
have reached their target, the dog, weight permitting, is jerked from
the ground. As in coping with some of the afore-mentioned problems
the dog is suspended in mid-air.
However, to let the biting dog recover his footing while he still had
the strength to renew the attack would be cruelty. The only justifiable
course is to hold him suspended until he has neither the strength nor
inclination to renew the fight. When finally it is obvious that he is
physically incapable of expressing his resentment and is lowered to
the ground, he will probably stagger loop-legged for a few steps,
vomit once or twice, and roll over on his side. The sight of a dog
lying, thick-tongued, on his side, is not pleasant, but do not let it
alarm you
THE REAL "HOOD"
"If your dog is a real "hood" who would regard the foregoing types of
protest as "kid stuff" and would express his resentment of your
efforts by biting, your problem is difficult -- and pressing.
"Professional trainers often get these extreme problems. Nearly
always the "protest biter" is the handiwork of a person who, by
avoiding situations that the dog might resent, has nurtured the seeds
of rebellion and then cultivated the resultant growth with under
correction.
When these people reap their inevitable and oftentimes
painful harvest, they are ready to avail themselves of "the cruel
trainer" whose advice they may have once rejected because it was
incompatible with the sugary droolings of mealy-mouthed columnists,
breed-ring biddies, and dog psychologists who, by the broken skins
and broken hearts their misinformation causes, can be proven guilty of the
greatest act of cruelty to animals since the dawn of time.
"With more genuine compassion for the biting dog than would ever be
demonstrated by those who are "too kind" to make a correction and
certainly with more disregard for his safety, the professional trainer
morally feels obligated to perform a "major operation."
"Since we are presently concerned with the dog that bites in
resentment of the demands of training, we will set our example in that
situation. (In a later chapter we will deal with the with the much
easier problem of the dog that bites someone other than his master."
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" Howell Book
House, 1996 William Koehler
"Housebreaking problems":
Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to
relieve himself inside the house, regardless of how
often he has the opportunity to go outside. This dog
may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can't avoid correction.
When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to
the place of his error, and hold his head close enough
so that he associates his error with the punishment.
Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.
It is important to your future relationship that you do
not rush at him and start swinging before you get hold of him.
When he's been spanked, take him outside. Chances
are, if you are careful in your feeding and close
observation, you will not have to do much punishing.
Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
house-broken and then force him to commit an error by
not providing an opportunity to go outside is very
unfair. Careful planning will make your job easier.
The same general techniques of housebreaking apply
to grown dogs that are inexperienced in the house.
For the grown dog who was reliable in the house and
then backslides, the method of correction differs
somewhat. In this group of "backsliders" we have the
"revenge piddler." This dog protests being alone by
messing on the floor and often in the middle of a bed.
The first step of correction is to confine the dog
closely in a part of the house when you go away, so
that he is constantly reminded of his obligation. The
fact that he once was reliable in the house is proof
that the dog knows right from wrong, and it leaves you
no other course than to punish him sufficiently to
convince him that the satisfaction of his wrongdoing is
not worth the consequences.
If the punishment is not severe enough, some of these
"backsliders" will think they're winning and will
continue to mess in the house. An indelible impression
can sometimes be made by giving the dog a hard
spanking of long duration, then leaving him tied by the
mess he's made so you can come back at twenty
minute intervals and punish him again for the same
thing.
In most cases, the dog that deliberately does
this disagreeable thing cannot be made reliable by the
light spanking that some owners seem to think is
adequate punishment. It will be better for your dog, as
well as the house, if you really pour it on him.
Some of the new "breaking scents" on the market can
aid in your house-breaking program. One type
discourages the dog from even visiting an
area. Another encourages him to relieve himself in the
area where it is sprinkled. Your pet shop should be
able to supply further information on the brands available in your
district.
Be fair to your dog in what and when you feed him and
be consistent in your efforts to housebreak him, and
you'll soon accomplish the job."
"A word to the wise, is sufficient," Jerry's Nana. j;~)
dirtybird
it goes around the nose connects at the bottom and another strap wraps
behind the head and acts like a collar. you hook up under the head. its a
LOT easier to use than the dog pulling on the leash, at first the dog will
probably hate it and roll on the ground trying to scratch or rub it off...
(if only we could do that for bras every once in a while..>*G)
don't let them do that, pull it up gently, you'll find really quickly how
much easier it is to use and how little pulling or 'leading' it takes to
keep the dogs nose up. and keep the dogs nose up, that nose should not dip
down to the ground to sniff... you want the dog to go where you want to go,
not him. and he'll follow any ol smelly track. keep the head up and leash
firm. At first you walk for about 10 minutes with the halter, then the rest
without, and on the way home put it back on. use it longer and longer, til
the dog is use to it. eventually *hopefully but not always* the dog will
react better to walking.
now number two of what you can do instead of a halter...
1. when you walk the dog, drop treats by your feet before he gets a chance
to wander off and before the walk really begins, in teh driveway front
sidewalk etc...
when he walks off to pull just stand there pull back gently on the leash
when the leash is loose drop a treat by your feet... keep doing this till
hes paying attention to you and not pulling...
2. leave it command... when he sniffs something say leave it and walk in the
opposite direction... (this may get you dizzy as they always seem to find
something else to sniff on the opposite side and don't seem to tire of it)
but say leave it again, and walk in the opposite direction. eventually the
dog should start going, "hey what are you so interested in!" and start
following what you are doing... after all its more important than that thing
he was smelling... and you can drop a treat by your feet or give him one
when hes' successfully 'left it' alone...
hope that helps with a few pointers...
"John Shultz" <jandm...@netspring.com.uk> wrote in message
news:3d0342b7...@news1.lig.bellsouth.net...
> My uncle has a year old Brittany Spaniel. Yesterday I took the dog for
> a walk around the neighborhood and noticed that the dog has a very
> stubborn habit of gulping down almost anything along the way that he
> can find. He walks with his nose nearly touching the ground and gulps
> down things before anyone can stop him. The things I saw him eat were:
> poop, paper, leaves, small bits of wood, a gum wrapper, more poop,
> even more poop and countless other things. My uncle says he does this
> all the time, especially with dog/cat poop and he can't get the dog to
> stop. The dog is both fast and sneaky and will also growl if we try to
> pull his head up and away from something he is trying to gobble down.
>
> This dog gets plenty of good quality dog food, is not underweight and
> the vet said he is is good health at his last checkup a few weeks ago.
> Is this just a Brittany thing or any ideas how to stop gobbling down
Baldy Cotton
Atten: Lt. Cmdr. Howe, Space Cadet First Class,
I have been in touch with the nice folks over at the National Aeronautics and Space Administration.
As you suggested, they have refused to confirm your assertion that we are being spied upon by cats
from Pluto in outer space who are reading your mind and controlling your thoughts. They refuse to
comment without orders until the new escape blimp has been trialed.
I asked them about your "problems", and they told me all you need to do is to wrap the top of your
head with foil-backed duct tape before you step outdoors and the x-rays from Pluto will be stopped
cold. You must be feeling very relieved to know that! (This was also the method proposed by
Sergeant-at-Arms Grace Kelly in 1951!)
Incidently, they confirmed that your dog Reep-bop-a-loola may indeed have invented the cordless
mouse, but since you don't seem to be able to find the blueprints, they cannot help you prosecute.
They insist, however, that if you want to remain a Cadet in good standing, you stop eating horsemeat
that has not been tested by the FDA.
Please try try try to answer in less than 50,000 words. I understand that this takes an enormous
amount of control, but go ahead and give her the old Space Cadet try.
Hope this helps,
Supremo Generalisimo Zirkon the Magnificent,
p.s. We cannot process your secret decoder ring order without a fingerprint sample and a permission
slip from your mommy
Jerry Howe
"Baldy Cotton" <baldyc...@mchsi.takethespamout.com> wrote in message
news:pejagucr65s7hcf0n...@4ax.com...
Jerry Howe
"Baldy Cotton" <baldyc...@mchsi.takethespamout.com> wrote in message
news:pejagucr65s7hcf0n...@4ax.com...
> >HOWEDY Master Of Deception blankman,
Mommy sez no so I asked daddy and he said I can
play with you and your friends as long as I don't
pick up any bad habits. Daddy trusts me, so don't
let me get into trouble playin with you and your pals.
I can't stay long cause there's gonna be a fight over
this and I want to get home so I can listen and giggle.
Parents sure are stupid. Somebody's gettin shut off,
and that's gonna make the fun last all week so I won't
be out much to play cause I got to stay in my room
when they're talking about me. But I just giggle.
Don't you like to giggle?
Here's some of my pals who ain't gigglin:
Our dog lovers are liars and dog abusers and can't break their
own dogs of eatin poo, or they wouldn't have told my students
Paul and Marty they'd NEED to HURT their dogs MOORE than
they'd LIKE to break coprophagia (poo eatin).
Here's my Disciple Paul on eating garbage, but you can substitute
Paul
http://home.clear.net.nz/pages/paulbousie/index.html
> Paul
Paul says:
No one understands how Wits End training really works
they assume it's all nicey nicey and don't realise it's a
very disciplined method that deals with any situation and
the foundation is built on trust and understanding
---------------------
HOWEDY Paul,
Might seem like that, but it's really MAGICK. VooDoo, actually. j;~)
==================
"misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:16990-3C...@storefull-2293.public.lawson.webtv.net...
> I don'tk now whether Peach is dead or alive. I do know she's not here
> with us. I really can't blame anyone here for her loss. I'm the one
> who ignored your advice. I did it because of how you write/wrote. I
> was unwilling to accept the idea that my using a shock collar could have
> any bearing on Peach not wanting to stay home. Up until I started using
> it my main concern had been keeping my dogs in their own yard. Once I
> started using the e-fence...well, then my concern became how to keep
> them from running off for days on end.
> I lost valuable training time becoming embroiled in the anti-shock
> debate and the "Jerry sux" tirades.
> I lost one dog but I have the bestest dog in the world now <g> A Wits
> End Trained dog, one who is completely housetrained, doesn't chew up
> stuff, stays in the yard, and doesn't bark all the time. IOW a great
> companion and friend.
> Thanks Jerry!
=====================
You might be interested in Misty's unF'neducated field observation of
her Cockatoo, Buddy?:
"misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:6786-3C0...@storefull-231.iap.bryant.webtv.net...
> Thanks Tricia9999, that was an interesting read! Course my little
> gray box seems to be working... Buddy stopped biting the baby! No
> negative side-effects seen occurring...not to the bird, the other bird or
> Zelda. ~misty
Or her observation after taking your pals advice:
misty" <Mom...@webtv.net> wrote in message
news:6946-3B6...@storefull-233.iap.bryant.webtv.ne
> We just installed a PetSafe brand fence this Spring.
> Two dogs, two collars We now have one dog and no
> collars.
> Peach and Zelda would run thru the fence, not want to
> come back in the yard and would run for days. The
> last time, Peach didn't come back home.
> I used the Wit's End Training Manual to learn how to
> train my dog. She is now border trained. A few
> minutes each day reinforces her desire to stay in the
> yard.
> She no longer runs out into the road, I can stop her
> from chasing cats and she no longer cringes when we
> walk around the yard.
> I can not say loud or long enough how much I hate the
> e-fence and its collars. If you can't get a regular fence
> then you need to train your dog. I will never rely on an
> electronic collar to keep my dog in our yard again.
> The price was too high:-(
> ~misty
=================
Chris Williams writes:
"The FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual I do find valuable.
Much of it I recognize as what I've always done without thinking of it
as "training". New stuff, I've used. His anchoring technique erased
the last of Mac's fireworks trauma."
=================
Dave Cohen <coh...@total.net writes:
Re: Barking Deterrants Needed...
Hi. Please understand that I do not know Jerry and have spoken with
him briefly once by email.
I have no stake or interest in the success of his business. I simply
want to thank him publicly for one of his tips, with regards to
separation anxiety. I thought it seemed far fetched to praise a
stuffed animal and then say good bye to my own dog, but I am
usually a very open minded person, so I tried it. Well, lo and behold-
the damn trick worked!
I think Jerry has some intriguing techniques, and personally I think
everyone who constantly criticizes him is not understanding his
logic. Thank you Jerry!
======================
Nevyn writes:
Jerry I cannot even begin to tell you the success Ive had with your training
manual! My two mutts have gone from out-of-control psychos to obedient well
behaved companions within a matter of weeks! AND My friends have seen the
success and have asked me to work on their dogs! I was working with a 5
month old Ridgeback female today and she was being an angel after like an
hour of working with her! it is AMAZING!! I pity those fools who take their
dogs to classes where the "Trainers" abuse their dogs! (do they have a
degree? A masters? a Phd? by the way? NO they are average joes off the
street who think they know how to train dogs!)
Once again, Jerry, you are a genius!
NEVYN and my Dogs, Rizzo and Midget, My Grandparents
dogs, Dusty and Snoopy, and my friends pup, Jazz.
================
Elaine McClung, President of Pet Rescue, Animal Commissioner
Brevard Co FL, writes:
Hi Jerry,
I received email from Mark Shaw on 10/6 which I just read today.
Sorry I didn't have time to get to it sooner. We have had a lot
going on in our area concerning animals. We formed a new Task
Force to address spay/neuter, pet overpopulation and animal
abuse. I needed to do a lot of research before the first meeting and
time was just not available for anything else.
Anyway the letter went on to say that we are in collusion, I tried
to defraud him, and have sent none of the materials that he has
asked for although he has yet to furnish the P. O. Box number that
animal control, director of two different shelters, etc.) and Space
Coast Feline Network http://www.spacecoastfelinenetwork.com
I listed these not to be on an ego trip but to let Mark know that I
am involved with animals and have very little time to play games
with him also I would not recommend your product if I did not
believe in it.
Please feel free to post this email as it has no copyright on it as
did Mark Shaw's last email to me.
Take care Jerry and don't let the Mark's of the world get you down.
Elaine
Thank you, Elaine. I have been trying to educate the mark's of this
world, with some occasional successes. I guess that's variable
reinforcement?
Yours, Jerry.
===================
A non dog owner writes:
Dear Jerry-
I just wanted to let you know how wonderful your Doggy Do
Right product is. I was skeptical at first, but have been
tremendously pleased.
As you know, we had a neighbor's dog that was extremely
bothersome, at times barking loudly for 3 hours straight.
Within a few days, the barking decreased, and now it is just
the occasional bark. this dog lives approximately 500 feet
away, and even at that distance, the machine has done wonders.
You were always available and patient to answer my
questions, and now I can be in my own home without going
nuts from the barking. As an added pleasure, all the other
minor barking nuisances in the neighborhood have stopped
as well.
Quiet is wonderful! Thank you.
Pam Graves
===========================
jerry
first i want to thank you for the BIOSOUND Scientific Integrator
and also for your training manual i first got the Biosound when
maggie was a puppy and it was great help in getting to relieve
stress or to relieve stress in her when we added riley to our family
we had some tense times as you know rily was 15 months old and
had had extensive training ,but was very set in his ways
biosound relieved his stress from the change that took place in his
life mixing with maggie has been a wonderful experience for us
watching them play and react together is a real pleasure they are
both very good therapy dogs and Biosound helped us get them
started and to stay on the right track
thanks for everything
john j mamaux
carlsbad ca
=========================
"Anthony Testa" <testa...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:c603fe9c.02032...@posting.google.com...
> I moved to Jacksonville, Florida about a year ago with my lovely wife
< snip horror story >
> Listen to this...My wife wrote one of the so called know it all of
> pets. His response to the exact letter we initially wrote to
> Jerry..."Get rid of the dog, bring her back" I'll save this person
> embarrassment by not saying the name. However, you know who you are
> and I have this to say to you. Go pump gas or bus tables because you
> sir, do not belong working with animals!
> Jerry, after reading some of the threads in the news group, I can't
> for the life of me understand why this many people are so dang blind
> or ignorant.
> You just keep plugging away at what you do, because you my friend are
> a life saver!!!
> Anytime you need someone to speak about the results of your product,
> you have my number. We would gladly talk to them.
> Thank you very much for all your help. God bless you...
> Anthony & Linda Testa
> Jacksonville, Florida
==============
Elaine McClung, President of Pet Rescue, Animal Comissioner
Brevard Co FL, writes: Sep 9, 2000
"I ordered from Jerry a long time ago.. He was helpful and
the order was filled promptly. Yes, Doggie Do Right does
indeed exist.
I "had" a very aggressive female Pit.. She was showing
aggression not only towards Dok, Rhodesian Ridgeback,
but our cats and even us.
She now plays with Dok, even to the point of allowing him
to take a toy or bone from her. She no longer shows any
aggression towards us. She is showing some aggression
towards the cats but that is down to a warning growl.
It is not just my opinion that all this aggression existed
before Doggie Do Right as we were advised by three vets
to euthanize her.
I do very much believe that DDR will help JR as I know it
has helped my dogs and cats. I do think your product is a
valuable tool in helping with aggression and other behavior
problems.
I am in Feral CatNetwork (we spay and neuter approximately
100 feral cats a month), I am also a member of a local AKC
dog obedience club, member of a local AKC agility club,
president of Pet Rescue, board member of the Alliance for
Care and Welfare of Animals (on the board are: county
commissioner, vet. rep., rep. from AKC dog club, CFA cat
club, assistant County manager, head of animal control,
director of two different shelters, etc.) and Space
Coast Feline Network http://www.spacecoastfelinenetwork.com
Thanks, Elaine,
===================
Hi Jerry,
================
From: "Regina Guerrero" <>
To: <jho...@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Friday, December 14, 2001 11:42 AM
Subject: Thank You!
> I just wanted to take a bit of time
> to tell you how much I appreciate your product and
> your training methods as well.
> When my little Chihuahua first arrived
> I was overwhelmed with her anxiety and
> her ability to just Bark endlessly.
> I received your product and at first I thought
> I was using it wrong, because my puppy just seemed to ignore it.
> But after a week or two, she began to calm down considerably
> as well as act more friendly towards people on the street.
> I can't believe the difference I see in my little puppy. Your product
> is a life saver! Thanks again for everything.
> Sincerely,
> Regina Guerrero
==================
"melisande" <melis...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:rLo08.751$0H.5...@paloalto-snr1.gtei.net...
> I haven't quite finished reading the FREE Wits' End
> Dog Training Method manual, but it already worked
> miracles with our three dogs
> The barking at the door has diminished so much that,
> well, frankly, we're stunned.
> Anyway, your approach is amazing.
> Melisand
============================
Robert Crim writes:
>Terri
===========
Thank you,
Jerry Howe,
Director of Research,
BIOSOUND Scientific
Director of Training,
Wits' End Dog Training
1611 24th St
Orlando, FL 32805
Phone: 1-407-425-5092
Phone: 1-888-BIOSOUND (1-888-246-7686)
http://www.doggydoright.com
And here's just a ordinary man who knows...
----- Original Message -----
From: George von Hilsheimer, Ph.D.
Sent: Tuesday, May 07, 2002 3:21 PM
Subject: [GVS]doggiedoright
I just had a nice talk with the man who invented the "doggiedoright" device;
he told me that if you tell him that I sent you he'll knock $25 off the
$99.95 price.
If you know someone working at a shelter etc who wants to quieten the dogs
in the neighborhood then this is an ideal present for them - and he will
sell
it at a discount. He sounds like someone we all know who has no sense
at all about money. Nice, nice man.
"doggiedoright" may be obtained from jho...@bellsouth.net I now have
four locations at which the thing has worked, so I recommend it.
Yap yap yap no more! I have zero financial interest in this.
George
============
Jerry Howe
"dirtybird" <ihatemy...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:%G7N8.215386$xS2.16...@news1.calgary.shaw.ca...
Bonnie Jean
"Baldy Cotton" <baldyc...@mchsi.takethespamout.com> wrote in message
news:pejagucr65s7hcf0n...@4ax.com...
swee...@gmail.com
I love my dog so much but it constantly did the things that irked me most. It would chew on things that it shouldn’t or jump up and down out of the blue.
Whenever I put on the leash, it would pull on it. Whenever it was out of the house, it would continue digging on the ground - I wish I could tell what it was looking for down there. The same goes for all the nasty urine.
All the things it did left me feeling depressed as if I failed it monumentally.
But since I discovered Brain Training for Dogs and applied the system offered, it now behaves the way a beautiful dog I always expect of 🐶
Here's a link to their site: http://hiddendogintelligence.club/
Good luck!