Rhodesian Ridgeback.
UCS308
a mellow temperament. So far things have been fairly easy with regard
to training him, Sit, Down, Stay - provided there are no leaves, or
people close enough - are all understood, though he sometimes
considers his options before carrying out my command. Crate training
was also no problem. And he will now sleep in the crate with the door
open, and not come out until about 7am.
However, there is a trend beginning to show that I wanted some
perspective on. Whilst he will listen to me, he generally ignores my
wife. Even worse, he lunges at her and bites her arm and her butt
constantly. He acts almost as if she is one of his littermates. When
we go for a walk on the leash it is difficult because every now and
then he stops and lunges at her. The only time I have this trouble is
when I am running on the beach, he will bite my ankles, but after a
stern 'no' he gets back to running himself, and chasing seaweed.
It is worse when we are in our back yard. He tends to "play" by
baying, and running around in circles, almost charging me. He does
this with other dogs too. It seems like normal play. Occasionally he
will jump up and mouth me, but he will not bite me. My wife though
gets slightly harsher treatment. And it is getting to the point where
she does not like to be alone with him. No amount of correction from
her will stop it.If I come out and clear it up, the moment, literally
that I turn my back he will be at her again.
So that is the background now my questions.
The general consensus seems to be that Ridgebacks are smart, and
independent, and will do what you ask provided they see the sense in
it, or you really, really, want them to do it. What is more there
seems to be a view that training a Ridgeback to respond instantly on
command is somehow breaking their spirit. What is the reality here?
My dog at 4.5 months weighs 52 lbs. I cannot afford to have a mature
dog that weighs 100lbs not doing as say, when I say. Am I planning for
too much?
As I said earlier, in the back yard he runs, and charges and tries to
nip at you. He would rather do this than chase a ball, or a Frisbee.
He will also do this to people he meets on the beach. When does this
stop being play, and start being aggressive behavior?
In the past few days, he has started growling when you try and get him
to do things. Sometimes the simple act of trying to get him up will
set him growling. My response so far has been to give him a stern
'no'. But I am not sure this is getting the message across. I am
interested in people's experiences with Ridgebacks, and how they
managed this aspect of their personalities.
That is it for now.. Thanks in advance.
Alison
The best thing you can do is go to puppy training classes . Make sure your
wife goes too as she needs to be shown how to handle the pup and gain more
confidence. Your pup is acting like a pup but he needs to be taught how to
behave .
With the problem of him growling , you could emphasise the no by
pointing at him as you say it. Then make sure he does get up. . Try holding
a treat in front of him and giving the command *up*.or what ever words you
use. When he does stand up give him the treat and praise him.
Alison
UCS308 <ucs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pnkakt83gjrg2eove...@4ax.com...
Amy Dahl
UCS308 wrote:
>
> I have a male Ridgeback that is 4.5 months old. He is a great dog with
> a mellow temperament. So far things have been fairly easy with regard
> to training him, Sit, Down, Stay - provided there are no leaves, or
> people close enough - are all understood, though he sometimes
> considers his options before carrying out my command. Crate training
> was also no problem. And he will now sleep in the crate with the door
> open, and not come out until about 7am.
>
> However, there is a trend beginning to show that I wanted some
> perspective on. Whilst he will listen to me, he generally ignores my
> wife. Even worse, he lunges at her and bites her arm and her butt
> constantly.
[snip]
I believe you need help in person, not from strangers who cannot
watch you and your wife interact with your dog. If you feel that
you need help from people with Ridgeback experience, I suggest
you also contact your breeder. Is he or she local? Good breeders
are concerned that puppy placements are successful and will usually
be willing to spend some time helping to ensure that they are.
If your breeder is not one of these or is inexperienced, you
might try contacting the secretary of the national breed club
for information about experienced Ridgeback people near you,
particularly those with training experience. There is a list
of breed club secretaries of AKC breeds on the AKC website,
http://www.akc.org . I think there is a link to "breeds" and
you can follow it from there.
If that doesn't help, see if the AKC site has information on a
rescue organization for Ridgebacks. Experienced rescue people
are very familiar with the adjustment issues typical of their
breed and their care/training needs and can be excellent resources.
In-person help from a knowledgeable all-breed obedience
instructor (describe your problems over the phone ahead of
time) plus guidance from someone experienced with your breed
should provide valuable help in understanding how to handle
your dog appropriately.
Amy Dahl
who has seen exactly two Ridgebacks in her entire life...
Tricia9999
have an escalating problem.
UCS308
this note was to find out if puppy class and obedience training is
going to work with this dog or frustrate it. The dog is not dumb. For
example he understands heel. But on occasions chooses not to listen.
You can see him think about it, he will start to, but then he thinks
nah!.. This i know is puppydom. But is it with this breed?
I have spoken to a number of breeders, locally and over the phone. The
breeder we got the dog from is great. But the main point to posting
here was to get anecdotal comments. I wanted to know if people had
similar "problems" and how they worked through them.
Thanks for the pointers to other sources of information, I will see if
there is a rescue locally.
On Fri, 06 Jul 2001 14:25:07 GMT, Amy Dahl <a...@oakhillkennel.com>
wrote:
FurPaw
been describing Dylan when she was a pup. She is highly
intelligent and very dominant. She accepted my husband as
leader, but seemed to be trying to climb up my back in the pack
"hierarchy."
We trained and trained and trained. At the classes I handled
her, because I was the one having the most problems with her. We
finally put her into puppy "boot camp" - two weeks with a highly
recommended trainer. That - and the followup sessions we had
with him - helped a lot.
Re the lunging - I wonder if that is prey-catching behavior for a
Ridgeback. Dylan's favorite was nipping at ankles - herding.
She tried to herd me everywhere, and I had the torn pants to
prove it.
Re growling - Dylan was - and still is - a growler. That really
worried us. Corrections (NO!) didn't work, she just growled
more. In desperation, I tried a different tactic - petting her
and stroking her. You'd think that would have rewarded the
behavior, but I think it communicated a different message -
"Growl all you want, but you can't make me go away and you can't
make me stop petting you." (At first, there were a few times when
I wondered if I was in danger of having my face ripped off!) My
intent was to try to replace the growling behavior with an
incompatible behavior - I don't think it worked quite that way,
but it did reduce the aggression.
Over time (seven years), the growling has evolved into a more
playful behavior. When I ask for a kissie, I often get a
growl-kissie - she growls while licking my cheek. She will,
deliberately it seems, lie down in front of my chair when she
knows it's my destination. She complies with my request for her
to move with a growl. She curls up under my desk and growls when
I nudge her with my feet. But the growls have lost their threat
and are more ritualistic. And I've had no difficulty handling
her since she was between two and three.
She's a great dog now and we love her to bits. She's never been
aggressive towards anyone else or any dog, (except the little
Bichon who ran loose and taunted her through the fence), and
she's very patient with children.
Point of the rambling, I guess, is work with a trainer or two,
with your wife handling him; be creative when one method of
training doesn't work; and don't worry about breaking his spirit
if you use positive training methods. He's still a pup, and
above all, remember, pups just like to have fun!
FurPaw
Ludwig Smith
>Thanks Amy. We are starting puppy class next week but part of sending
>this note was to find out if puppy class and obedience training is
>going to work with this dog or frustrate it. The dog is not dumb. For
>example he understands heel. But on occasions chooses not to listen.
>You can see him think about it, he will start to, but then he thinks
>nah!.. This i know is puppydom. But is it with this breed?
It's not so specifically the breed. You see that kind of behavior in
a lot of dogs. Basically it's a kind of bratty puppyhood.
>The general consensus seems to be that Ridgebacks are smart, and
>independent, and will do what you ask provided they see the sense in
>it, or you really, really, want them to do it. What is more there
>seems to be a view that training a Ridgeback to respond instantly on
>command is somehow breaking their spirit. What is the reality here?
I do have to say that the idea of training a dog is going to break
their spirit is nonsense. There is absolutely no reason you can't
have an obedient Ridgeback with 'spirit'. However - heavy handed,
confrontational methods do not work very well with Ridgebacks. Some
breeds are 'forgiving of handler error'. Generally speaking,
Rhodesian Ridgebacks are not very forgiving of handler error.
Whatever training you do must be consistent with consistent rules.
>I have spoken to a number of breeders, locally and over the phone. The
>breeder we got the dog from is great. But the main point to posting
>here was to get anecdotal comments. I wanted to know if people had
>similar "problems" and how they worked through them.
Training is the thing that will get you through this phase without any
serious problems. Your wife is not only going to have to participate,
but take a major role in the training. Your puppy is only four and
half months old, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem to get
things back in line, but you do need to get a handle on it.
The specifics of the training should be left to the trainer, but the
general idea would be classes to teach obedience along with some
in-home session to show you how to apply the obedience towards
household manners. The training should not just consist of dog
training, but also showing both you and your wife proper ways to
interact with the puppy and how to physically control the puppy when
necessary.
Rhodesians generally tend to be laid back dogs, but they can tend to
have a somewhat dominant streak in them and can and will learn to take
advantage of a situation by bullying.
Ludwig Smith
Dog FAQS
http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/
Jerry Howe
You got big trouble, and more to come. The reality is, everything
you've been taught about your dogs' behavior is DEAD WRONG.
You'll need to do somthing entirely different. That's why I've made
the FREE Wits' End Dog Training Method manual available. Read it and
ask me questions if you have any. Jerry.
"UCS308" <ucs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pnkakt83gjrg2eove...@4ax.com...
Jerry Howe
"Alison" <alis...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:9i4824$gf17c$1...@ID-80210.news.dfncis.de...
> Hi,
> The best thing you can do is go to puppy training classes .
Sorry Alison, most of our puppy classes are run by incompetent blow
hards like janet boss and our Thugs.
> Make sure your wife goes too as she needs to be shown how to
> handle the pup and gain more confidence.
Maybe things are different in your country, but the chances are
unlikely they'll be taught proper handling and training methods.
They'll probably be taught to jerk and choke or just bribe the dog,
and in a few months they'll be fed up with him and take him to the
pound if they don't kill him for biting.
>Your pup is acting like a pup but he needs to be taught how to
> behave .
What our traditional "trainers" will teach them is to jerk and choke
their dog.
> With the problem of him growling ,
That means HANG the dog, to the majority of "trainers" in this
country. Ask janet boss or john richardson.
> you could emphasise the no by pointing at him as you say it.
You mean confront and challenge this dog? NOT A WISE MOVE, Alison.
> Then make sure he does get up.
That's bound to provoke the dog, and get them bit, and then they'll
kill him.
> Try holding a treat in front of him
Bribery with this dog will reinforce his misbehaviors...
> and giving the command *up*.or what ever words you
> use. When he does stand up give him the treat and praise him.
Yeah. Then the pup is going to want more treats, and he ain't gonna
take NO for an answer...
> Alison
There is ONE place they'll get the information they need to know to
rehabilitate their behavior problems.... for FREE. And you know
where that is, Alison, don't you? j;~}
Jerry Howe
"Amy Dahl" <a...@oakhillkennel.com> wrote in message
news:3B45CA6A...@oakhillkennel.com...
<snip your snip>
> I believe you need help in person, not from strangers who cannot
> watch you and your wife interact with your dog.
Yeah? I believe you are a lying, dog abusing Thug, dahl.
> If you feel that you need help from people with Ridgeback
> experience, I suggest you also contact your breeder.
They need training advice, not breed advice, dahl.
> Is he or she local? Good breeders are concerned that puppy
> placements are successful and will usually be willing to spend
> some time helping to ensure that they are.
As you would? What would you tell these folks if this was a pup you
bred??? You'd tell them to HURT their dog, dahl. That's all you know
HOWE to do.
> If your breeder is not one of these or is inexperienced, you
> might try contacting the secretary of the national breed club
> for information about experienced Ridgeback people near you,
> particularly those with training experience.
This is where they should be able to get all the training advice
they need, dahl. Breeders like you don't know squat about training.
<snip>
> If that doesn't help, see if the AKC site has information on a
> rescue organization for Ridgebacks. Experienced rescue people
> are very familiar with the adjustment issues typical of their
> breed and their care/training needs and can be excellent
> resources.
Not they're not, dahl. They're just as freaking ignorant and
incapable as you, you lying, dog absing Thug.
> In-person help from a knowledgeable all-breed obedience
> instructor
Someone like janet boss or lying"I LOVE KOEHLER" lynn?
> (describe your problems over the phone ahead of
> time) plus guidance from someone experienced with your breed
> should provide valuable help in understanding how to handle
> your dog appropriately.
Doubtful, very doubtful.
> Amy Dahl who has seen exactly two Ridgebacks in her entire life...
That's fortunate. Ridgebacks would tear you to ribbons for choking
and shocking them the way you handle and train your dogs.
Sorry dahl, you're a Thug. j;~}
Jerry Howe
"UCS308" <ucs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:jkmbkt48empfcjjsv...@4ax.com...
Jerry Howe
"Ludwig Smith" <top...@erols.com> wrote in message
news:3kockto12el5vucns...@4ax.com...
> I do have to say that the idea of training a dog is going to break
> their spirit is nonsense.
Sorry ludwig, you're a koehler trainer.
>There is absolutely no reason you can't have an obedient
> Ridgeback with 'spirit'.
Right. Unless you mishandle him by jerking and choking.
> However - heavy handed, confrontational methods do not work very
> well with Ridgebacks.
Or any dog, ludwig. But you don't care, you only know HOWE to hurt
and kill dogs you can't intimidate enough to respect your
"authority."
> Some breeds are 'forgiving of handler error'.
Yeah? Sorry ludwig, I ain't buying your crap.
> Generally speaking,
> Rhodesian Ridgebacks are not very forgiving of handler error.
> Whatever training you do must be consistent with consistent rules.
As in the koehler book you swear by?
> Training is the thing that will get you through this phase without
> any serious problems. Your wife is not only going to have to
> participate, but take a major role in the training. Your puppy is
only
> four and half months old, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem
> to get things back in line, but you do need to get a handle on it.
Yeah. And jerking and choking and bribing this dog won't work.
> The specifics of the training should be left to the trainer, but
the
> general idea would be
The EXACT idea would be DON'T BELIEVE OUR LYING, DOG ABUSING THUGS.
> classes to teach obedience along with some
> in-home session to show you how to apply the obedience towards
> household manners.
Sorry ludwig. There's no need for them to spend any of their hard
earned dough on training their dog, everything they need to know is
available for FREE in the Wits' End Dog Training Method manual.
> The training should not just consist of dog training, but also
> showing both you and your wife proper ways to interact with the
> puppy and how to physically control the puppy when necessary.
Sure. That's not dog training? Hmm.
> Rhodesians generally tend to be laid back dogs,
Is that so, ludwig? That's not been my experience with the several
dozen I've trained.
> but they can tend to have a somewhat dominant streak in them
No ludwig. Forget your "dominance" crap, ludwig. That's what makes
dogs like this do the things he's doing, ludwig. You can't see the
forrest for all the trees, ludwig. That's why I make swiss cheese
outta every post of yours.
> and can and will learn to take advantage of a situation by
bullying.
Only when we teach them by being bullies.
> Ludwig Smith
> Dog FAQS
> http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/
Good for you, ludwig. I see you're still recommending your sadist
pal cindy mooreon's vicious web site. Do you know she's been banned
from two obedience clubs for brutality. j;~}
Kathy Monroe
> and kill dogs you can't intimidate enough to respect your
> "authority."
Liar.
> Good for you, ludwig. I see you're still recommending your sadist
> pal cindy mooreon's vicious web site. Do you know she's been banned
> from two obedience clubs for brutality. j;~}
Liar.
KAT
UCS308
group well, I guess others do and are used to you..
I know that pieces of information I've been given so far contradicts
other information I have, and my experiences so far. I sense that some
of the responses are dogmatic. That is why I am asking for information
from people who have owned and trained Ridgebacks.
I will add two observations here that support somewhat a couple of
your comments, without endorsing your way of saying it.
1.) Ridgebacks are often described as laid back. I guess because they
don't bark that much, and take a lot of things in their stride that
others dogs get quite excited about. But, I have also found the
Ridgeback to be very sensitive dog. And exceptionally stubborn.
2.) Feeding the dog treats, which we have tried only twice as
enticements to do something, are ineffective. Whilst he likes treats
he senses very quickly that he is being duped, and will not budge.
I will read your manual, in the meantime elaborate on "big trouble",
and tell me what you know about Ridgebacks.
On Sun, 8 Jul 2001 13:39:19 -0400, "Jerry Howe" <jho...@bellsouth.net>
wrote:
Chuck
<pnkakt83gjrg2eove...@4ax.com>:
I'm a proud owner of a 8 month old Thai Ridgeback, your Rhodesian's cousin.
Our dog, Fa Dang, has a similar temperment, and my wife and I both assumed
the Alpha role right away and avoided many problems of this breed. He is
not as big as a Rhodesian, and is 47 lbs at 8 months.
I found that my wife had to spend more time alone with him when he started
the nipping or lunging with her. In his mind it was fun, but he had to
learn that she was his Alpha too. With me there, I was the Alpha of the
pack and my wife was one of his pals that he could freely mess with.
Fa Dang started the nipping behavior when I was running with him. He
started to nip at my shorts and butt, not my ankles. A stern no,
immediately stopping all play, and ignoring him stopped this behavior after
a couple of times. No jerking of the leash or punishment is required. He
quickly learned that biting stopped all playtime.
We also started the game of chasing him, and we would not respond when he
wanted to chase us. He learned that it is nice to be caught, roll over, and
get a belly rub.
Chuck
---Spam block---
Remove the x's to reply
chuck...@xpeoplepcx.com
Jerry Howe
"UCS308" <ucs...@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:pnalkto3llfoks0o0...@4ax.com...
> Hmmm, you have an interesting communication style.
Thank you.
> I don't know this group well,
You're fortunate. I suggest you keep it like that.
> I guess others do and are used to you..
I guess you haven't been reading our regular posters.
> I know that pieces of information I've been given so far
contradicts
> other information I have, and my experiences so far.
Right. It only takes one inconsistancy to blow the whole concept of
what we're trying to accomplish.
> I sense that some of the responses are dogmatic.
Well, let's put it like this. Most of the responses are AUTOMATIC.
The though of an aggressive dog scares our experts because they do
not understand dog behavior and Natural Law.
> That is why I am asking for information
> from people who have owned and trained Ridgebacks.
I grew up in a Dane kennel. They're a bit like RR's. And I've
trained a couple dozen of them.
> I will add two observations here that support somewhat a couple of
> your comments, without endorsing your way of saying it.
Well, if you'd been around our "experts" as long as I have, and if
you'd seen as many wonderful dogs get jerked and choked and shocked
and killed as our Thugs did to that little dog in "intereseted in
hearing," you'd despise these vicious cretins as I do... It'll just
take you a little time to figure it out. Let's hope you do before
you train your dog.
> 1.) Ridgebacks are often described as laid back.
I'd hardly say that.
> I guess because they don't bark that much, and take a lot of
things
> in their stride that others dogs get quite excited about.
Yeah, they're not flighty like my Elves.
> But, I have also found the Ridgeback to be very sensitive dog. And
> exceptionally stubborn.
There ya go! That's my kind of dog.
> 2.) Feeding the dog treats, which we have tried only twice as
> enticements to do something, are ineffective. Whilst he likes
treats
> he senses very quickly that he is being duped, and will not budge.
Smart. I don't use treats.
> I will read your manual,
Smart. My students don't fail.
> in the meantime elaborate on "big trouble",
> and tell me what you know about Ridgebacks.
Well, they're a lot like a little Great Dane, they're both hound
dogs and they tend to be persistent, stubborn, and object to being
forced with aggression. Your pup is going on five months old and is
acting out of control. That's probably because there's
inconsistancies in handling techniques you and your wife are using.
They're a big dog and won't accept "corrections" easily, and if they
think you're afraid of them, they turn on like you was a bunny
rabbit.
That's about where it's at for your wife now, I think. He's acting
up and she's trying to control him and everybody is getting out of
control fighting for their own way... The way to get this matter
straightened out is to set everything up so nobody makes anybody
upset, and then you'll have a successful, cohesive pack with you and
the Mrs. as the leader.
Read my manual, do all of the exercises, ask questions if you have
any difficulty, and you'll be in good shape in just a couple of
days. Jerry.
HarCo Industries
> Hmmm, you have an interesting communication style. I don't know this
> group well, I guess others do and are used to you..
Well, most of us have kill-filed Jerry. Does that count as being used
to him?
<snip>
> I will read your manual, in the meantime elaborate on "big trouble",
> and tell me what you know about Ridgebacks.
My opinion is that Jerry is a lunatic. He's just one of our resident
kooks. Usenet's full of 'em.
He doesn't seem to know a lot about dogs. He's fond of saying "a dog
is a dog". Personally, I think this is obviously ridiculous, and
suspect you will to, as you are asking for people with experience with
RR's. Which suggests to me that you are aware that there are breed
differences among dogs, not to mention a lot of individual
personality.
Here's a link you might find more helpful:
http://www.k9web.com/dog-faqs/
This web site is a huge resource of faq's compiled from the Usenet dog
groups, and elsewhere. Unfortunately, the RR breed link doesn't appear
to work anymore, but there are a lot of other pages about behavior and
training that you may find helpful.
FWIW: I read Jerry's manual, and thought it was a waste of time.
Poorly written and poorly reasoned. Maybe you'll like the manual, but
I honestly think there are better sources of information. If you find
it useful, more power to you. If you find it confusing and weird,
well, it's not just you.
I think you are on the right track with signing up for puppy classes.
Having a an experienced person watch you train your dog is a big help.
Don't worry about Jerry. He can't help himself.
--Terri & Harlan
Jerry Howe
"HarCo Industries" <tdwi...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:bc8b499f.01071...@posting.google.com...
Jerry Howe
"HarCo Industries" <tdwi...@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:bc8b499f.01071...@posting.google.com...
Psychoclown wrote:
Nope. That "beating dogs with sticks" things is
something you twisted out of context, because you
are full of bizarro manure.
Amy lyingfrosty dahl LIES with a straight face and
says:
"I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes. For the
benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses
not to read the article (SHE'D REALLY LIKE IT IF
YOU DON'T READ IT!), there is NO mention in it of
"twisting ears (INDEED, SHE PINCHES THEM WITH
SPIKES).
I would never slap a dog (SHE TEACHES PEOPLE TO
BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS TO MOTIVATE THEM).
I would never advise anyone to slap a dog
(SHE'S A PROVEN LIAR AND DOG ABUSER, do you
expect her to ADMIT THE TRUTH???).
I do not believe there is a single circumstance, ever,
where slapping a dog is anything but destructive."
RIGHT. She PINCHES, not twists... and chin cuff
doesn't mean hit, according to lyinglynn and avrama....
amy lyingfrosty dahl continues:
"Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long. You can have a
helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher, less
tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them
more sharply.
REPEAT, VARYING HOW HARD YOU HIT THE DOG.
Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of as
force-fetching: the ear pinch.
Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent
that resisting your will fades in importance.
but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their
efforts to escaping the ear pinch
even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against
that
if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and
the collar, even the buckle on the collar. Persist!
Eventually, the dog will give in"
With your hand on the collar and ear, say, 'fetch.'
Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the stick.
Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead
of your thumb;
Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips
and pinching its ear.
Gotta LOVE koehler. dahl makes koheler look like St. Francis.
"The Koehler Method of Dog Training" , Howell Book House, 1996
William Koehler
BARKING, WHINING, HOWLING, YODELING, SCREAMING, AND WAILING
The fact that you realize you have such a problem makes it certain
you have "reproved" the dog often enough to let him know you were
against his sound effects, even though your reproving didn't quiet
them, so we'll bypass the loudly clapped hands, the cup of water in
his face, and the "shame-shames" and start with something more
emphatic.
We'll begin with the easiest kind of vocalist to correct: the one
that charges gates, fences, doors, and windows, barking furiously at
familiar or imaginary people and objects. A few clusters of BBs from
a good slingshot, in conjunction with the light line and plenty of
temptations, will cause such a dog to use his mind rather than his
mouth.
But you won't make the permanent impression unless you
supply dozens of opportunities for him to exercise the control he
thus
acquires. Make sure these opportunities don't always come at the
same time of the day, else he may learn to observe the "quiet hour"
and pursue his old routines at other times.
With the help of the light line, it will be easy to follow the BBs
with a long down to make sure he gets the most from his lesson. As
was mentioned before, eliminating the senseless barking will not
lessen the dog's value as a watchdog but rather, as he grows more
discriminating, increase it.
The dog who vocalizes in bratty protest or lonesomeness because
you're gone constitutes a different problem. If it is impractical
for someone to stay with him constantly (there are owners who cater
to neurosis by employing dog sitters), you'll have to heed
the neighbors and the law and quiet the dog. This calls for a little
ingenuity as well as a heavy hand.
Attach a line to your dog's collar, so your corrective effort
doesn't turn into a footrace around the house until you reach a
stalemate under the bed. This use of the line in the correction will
also serve to establish it as a reminder to be quiet as the dog
drags it
around when you're not present. Next, equip yourself with a man's
leather belt or a strap heavy enough to give your particular dog a
good tanning. Yup-we're going to strike him. Real hard. Remember,
you're dealing with a dog who knows he should be quiet and
neighbors who have legal rights to see that he does.
Now leave, and let your fading footsteps tell the dog of your going.
When you've walked to a point where he'll think you're gone but
where you could hear any noises he might make, stop and listen. If
you find a comfortable waiting place on a nearby porch, be careful
not to talk or laugh. Tests show a dog's hearing to be many times as
sharp as yours.
When the noise comes, instead of trying to sneak up to the door so
you can barge in while he's still barking, which is generally
impossible, respond to his first sound with an emphatic bellow of
"out," and keep on bellowing as you charge back to his area.
Thunder through the door or gate, snatch up the belt that you've
conveniently placed, and descend on him. He'll have no chance to
dodge if you grab the line and reel him in until his front feet are
raised off the floor or,
if he's a big dog, until you've snubbed him up with a hitch on
something. While he's held in close, lay the strap vigorously
against his thighs.
Keep pouring it on him until he thinks it's the bitter end. A real
whaling now may cut down somewhat on the number of repeat
performances that will be necessary.
When you're finished and the dog is convinced that he is, put him on
a long down to think things over while you catch your breath. After
fifteen or twenty minutes, release him from the stay and leave the
area again.
So that you won't feel remorseful, reflect on the truth that a great
percentage of the barkers who are given away to "good homes" end
up in the kindly black box with the sweet smell. Personally, I've
always felt that it's even better to spank children, even if they
"cry
out," than to "put them to sleep."
You might have a long wait on that comfortable porch before your
dog starts broadcasting again. When he does, let your long range
bellow tie the consequent correction to his first sound and repeat
the spanking, if anything emphasizing it a bit more.
It might be necessary to spend a Saturday or another day off so that
you'll have time to follow through sufficiently. When you have a
full day, you will be able to convince him each yelp will have a bad
consequence, and the consistency will make your job easier. If he
gets away with his concert part of the time, he'll be apt to gamble
on your inconsistency.
After a half dozen corrections, "the reason and the correction" will
be tied in close enough association so that you can move in on him
without the preliminary bellowing of "out." From then on, it's just
a case of laying for the dog and supplying enough bad
consequences of his noise so he'll no longer feel like gambling.
Occasionally, there is a dog who seems to sense that you're hiding
nearby and will utter no sound. He also seems to sense when you
have really gone away, at least according to the neighbors. Maybe
his sensing actually amounts to close observation. He could be
watching and listening for the signs of your actual going.
Make a convincing operation of leaving, even if it requires changing
clothes and being unusually noisy as you slam the doors on the
family car and drive away. Arrange with a friend to trade cars a
block or two from your house so you can come back and park within
earshot without a single familiar sound to tell the dog you've
returned. A few of these car changes are generally enough to fool
the most alert dog.
Whether your dog believes you are gone anytime you step out of the
house or requires the production of changing clothes and driving
off, keep working until even your neighbors admit the dog has
reformed. If there has been a long history of barking and whining,
it sometimes requires a lot of work to make a dog be quiet when
you're not around, so give the above method an honest try before
you presume your dog requires a more severe correction.
Our professor of behavior Wisc. U., lyingdoc dermer endorses
koehler. (He said: "I punish dog's behavior, NOT the dog." You
gonna believe THAT CRAP, PEOPLE???)
"Read koehler for content" Mark Shaw, Sadist, rpdb regular.
"I LOVE KOHELER" lyinglynn, pathological liar, noted dog abuser.
"There's much wisdom in koehler," deana pace. (Her dogs run away
from home.)
"Read koehler," lyingdogDUMMY. (koehler is all he understands.)
"Read koehler, cindymorons k-9 web faq's page," ludwig smith.
"I'm not a koehler trainer," cindymoron, lying "I LOVE KOEHLER"
lynn, lyingfrosty dahl. But they spout koehler's methods. They don't
consider themselves koehler trainers because they shock dogs, twist
and pinch ears and toes, and BEAT DOGS WITH STICKS to MOTIVATE them
"I know that most men, including those at ease with
problems of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept
even the simplest and most obvious truth if it would
oblige them to admit the falsity of conclusions which they
have delighted in explaining to colleagues, proudly
taught to others, and which they have woven, thread by
thread, into the fabric of their lives."
-Leo Tolstoy-
Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated
more complaints to my personal email than any other
controversial post I have made to date, bar none?:
CAVEAT
If you have to do things to your dog to train him that you
would rather not have to do, then you shouldn't be doing
them. If you have a dog trainer who tells you to jerk your
dog around, choke him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes,
shock, shake, slap, scold, hit, chin cuff, scruff shake or
punish your dog in any manner, that corrections
are appropriate, that the dog won't think of you as the
punisher, or that corrections are not harmful, or if they
can't train your dog to do what you want, look for a
trainer that knows HOWE.
Sincerely,
Jerry Howe,
Wits' End Dog Training
Witse...@aol.com
http://www.doggydoright.com
Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.
-Francis Bacon-
There are terrible people who, instead of solving a
problem, bungle it and make it more difficult for all who
come after. Who ever can't hit the nail on the head
should, please, not hit at all.
-Nietzsche-
The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are
learned qualities.
The Wits' End Dog Training Method challenges the learning
centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged,
develop and continue to grow to make him smarter.
The Wits' End Dog Training method capitalizes on
praising split seconds of canine thought, strategy, and
timing, not mindless hours of forced repetition, constant
corrections, and scolding.
-Jerry Howe-
Jerry Howe
"Chuck" <chuck...@xpeoplepcx.com> wrote in message
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