lakeland terrier & cats
Paul Broussard
settling on the breed for companionship for my wife. The wife has
bonded big time with the puppy. He is a really great dog with a
wonderful but stubborn personality. We have an older (15) yellow lab
mix, who is ok with the puppy. The problem is the puppy won't get along
with our two cats. Both are used to our other dog. Our yellow Morris
cat is willing to be friends with the puppy, the other
(siamese/himalayan) howls and turns into a bundle of claws. The puppy
will chase after the yellow cat, and nips at it. If we leave them both
in the house, the yellow will jump up somewhere high while the puppy
barks for hours at him.
We love our cats, and getting rid of the puppy is not an option. He is
real company for my stay at home wife, who also has a chronic illness
that sometimes leaves her housebound. I've searched deja, came up with a
few tips, but need more. Is there some procedure or tips any one can
offer? Website, perhaps?
TIA,
--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
"careful, we might learn from this"- Calvin
family pics from Paul & Laurie-
http://members.home.net/pbroussard/index.html
J1Boss
>We have recently acquired a lakeland terrier 8 month old puppy after
>settling on the breed for companionship for my wife. The wife has
>bonded big time with the puppy. He is a really great dog with a
>wonderful but stubborn personality. We have an older (15) yellow lab
>mix, who is ok with the puppy. The problem is the puppy won't get along
>with our two cats.
********* You need to realize that you've acquired a TERRIER. Dogs that are
meant to dig and kill vermin. Cats seem an awful lot like vermin to terriers,
especially those who didn't encoutner them as very young puppies. Can I ask
how you came to the decision on a Lakeland, and why an 8 month old vs an 8 WEEK
old?
>> Both are used to our other dog. Our yellow Morris
>cat is willing to be friends with the puppy, the other
>(siamese/himalayan) howls and turns into a bundle of claws. The puppy
>will chase after the yellow cat, and nips at it. If we leave them both
>in the house, the yellow will jump up somewhere high while the puppy
>barks for hours at him.
*********** You're leaving a new 8 month old terrier with full run of your
home, with an elderly dog and 2 cats? ACK! You seriously need to look into
appropriate and safe confinement, before you wind up with some very injured and
upset pets.
> We love our cats, and getting rid of the puppy is not an option. He is
>real company for my stay at home wife, who also has a chronic illness
>that sometimes leaves her housebound.
********** Not to be nosy, but you brought up the illness... :-) - is your
wife able tyo physically control/discipline/guide the puppy?
>>I've searched deja, came up with a
>few tips, but need more. Is there some procedure or tips any one can
>offer? Website, perhaps?
>
>TIA,
>--
>Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
******* you have a potentially highly volatile situation on your hands.
Terriers are not known to be among the "easy" breeds, and you've brought one
into the lives of two felines and an elderly canine. Life is going to be
challenging. IS this pup neutered (Please say YES!). Why was he available at
8 months of age? Why did you select this breed? What are your expectations?
These are all questions I would ask of clients (I'd ask a lot more as well).
Who did you buy this pup from? Did they know the circumstance clearly? What
has THEIR recommendation been?
Choosing the "right" dog isn't as simple as it often seems, particularly when
their are existing pets in the home. Compatability is pretty important - not
just with the PEOPLE, but with the other pets. Some things are inate for the
breed - they aren't going to change easily or at all. I think you should
examine all of your choices and make the best decisions for the whole group -
some lives could depend on it.
Without knowing every detail of the situation, a more accurate advisement isn't
possible. Call in a trainer/behaviorist/behavior counselor, who can see your
crew "in action" and determine the best case approach.
Best of luck.
Janet Boss
Best Friends Dog Obedience
"Nice Manners for the Family Pet"
"Second-hand dogs AREN'T second-rate"
see Lucy at: http://www.flyball.com/nsl/
Paul Broussard
>
> >From: Paul Broussard
>
> >We have recently acquired a lakeland terrier 8 month old puppy after
> >settling on the breed for companionship for my wife. The wife has
> >bonded big time with the puppy. He is a really great dog with a
> >wonderful but stubborn personality. We have an older (15) yellow lab
> >mix, who is ok with the puppy. The problem is the puppy won't get along
> >with our two cats.
>
> ********* You need to realize that you've acquired a TERRIER. Dogs that are
> meant to dig and kill vermin. Cats seem an awful lot like vermin to terriers,
> especially those who didn't encoutner them as very young puppies. Can I ask
> how you came to the decision on a Lakeland, and why an 8 month old vs an 8 WEEK
> old?
It was the wife's choice. I believe she acted hastily with the choice.
But she had been trying to get one for months, and finally got one from
a breeder in Houston. I believe most of the questions you ask were asked
by the breeder. I was told that the breeder had held on to this one
until it became apparent that it wasn't top show quality.
> >> Both are used to our other dog. Our yellow Morris
> >cat is willing to be friends with the puppy, the other
> >(siamese/himalayan) howls and turns into a bundle of claws. The puppy
> >will chase after the yellow cat, and nips at it. If we leave them both
> >in the house, the yellow will jump up somewhere high while the puppy
> >barks for hours at him.
>
> *********** You're leaving a new 8 month old terrier with full run of your
> home, with an elderly dog and 2 cats? ACK! You seriously need to look into
> appropriate and safe confinement, before you wind up with some very injured and
> upset pets.
Sorry, after reading my post, it reads like we leave them ALONE
together. That's not the case at all. We have them separated, and try to
get them together whenever we can stand it. :)
> > We love our cats, and getting rid of the puppy is not an option. He is
> >real company for my stay at home wife, who also has a chronic illness
> >that sometimes leaves her housebound.
> ********** Not to be nosy, but you brought up the illness... :-) - is your
> wife able tyo physically control/discipline/guide the puppy?
Yes, she is mobile most of the time.
> >>I've searched deja, came up with a
> >few tips, but need more. Is there some procedure or tips any one can
> >offer? Website, perhaps?
>
> ******* you have a potentially highly volatile situation on your hands.
> Terriers are not known to be among the "easy" breeds, and you've brought one
> into the lives of two felines and an elderly canine. Life is going to be
> challenging. IS this pup neutered (Please say YES!). Why was he available at
> 8 months of age? Why did you select this breed? What are your expectations?
> These are all questions I would ask of clients (I'd ask a lot more as well).
> Who did you buy this pup from? Did they know the circumstance clearly? What
> has THEIR recommendation been?
I'll have to bring in my wife to thoroughly answer your questions.
> Choosing the "right" dog isn't as simple as it often seems, particularly when
> their are existing pets in the home. Compatability is pretty important - not
> just with the PEOPLE, but with the other pets. Some things are inate for the
> breed - they aren't going to change easily or at all. I think you should
> examine all of your choices and make the best decisions for the whole group -
> some lives could depend on it.
>
> Without knowing every detail of the situation, a more accurate advisement isn't
> possible. Call in a trainer/behaviorist/behavior counselor, who can see your
> crew "in action" and determine the best case approach.
>
> Best of luck.
>
> Janet Boss
I thank you for your time. I was pretty sure we screwed up on this deal,
but we have to find a solution, even drastic. Let me get my wife to fill
in with more info.
--
Broussard Paint Contractors, friend of Bill's
J1Boss
>Sorry, after reading my post, it reads like we leave them ALONE
>together. That's not the case at all. We have them separated, and try to
>get them together whenever we can stand it. :)
******* In my experience, I've found it's best to "grin and bear it" ("bear"
being the operative word!). It's tough to introduce certain pets. The
newcomer gets leashed. That doesn't mean you necessarily have to HOLD the
leash, but it's on for enforcement of "LEAVE THE CAT ALONE!" The MORE they
asre together, the less interesting they find each other. It can be grueling
at first, with cetain combinations, but worth the effort in the,long run. You
can stop that barking at the old dog, for instance with a "no - QUIET" and
enforce it with a collar correction if necessary.
Obedience class would be of great benefot as well, of course!
>I thank you for your time. I was pretty sure we screwed up on this deal,
>but we have to find a solution, even drastic. Let me get my wife to fill
>in with more info.
********** Paul - I really do wish you the best. I know that you feel you've
made a commitment and want to honor that, as well as the fact that you've
fallen for this puppy (isn't it easy to do?!?!).
Lakeland's can be pretty tough cookies - a whole lot different from a lab, and
a puppy SO different from an elderly dog. Cats don't always learn to cope.
You may find yourself with a constant battle or a segregation situation.
I've taken care of a lot of dogs over the years. Few terriers have been
welcomed by my cats. I have a friend who's cat has lived in the basement for
the last almost 6 years, because of the resident terrier (who was acquired well
after the cat). It's a tough combination that an owner can't fail to be "on
top" of. My dogs (retrievers) dont' think much of terrier ways of playing
either - they mostly use creative avoidance. Terriers are great dogs in the
right circumstances and households, but mixing with other types of pets often
causes very stressful situations.
Let us know how it works out.
Diane Huntley
Paul, a couple of years ago I moved my Sheltie and two cats into a house
that already had a Westie (Westhighland Terrier). The Westie was already
12 yrs old so I kinda of have the opposite problem that you have. Both
dogs get along but the Westie never had and never will get along with a
cat. Knowing that there would be no way to teach an old dog to change his
life, I put a baby gate up in a hallway. The two cats have my bedroom and
my daughters bedroom to roam and the Westie has the rest of the house.
This works for me mainly because the Westie is not mine and I don't mind
the fact he can't follow me into my bedroom. My Sheltie is able to follow
me everywhere. One of the cats (the younger Siamese) sneaks out of the
rooms and makes occasional raids to other rooms. When she does it she's
always on the lookout for that "devil dog". Anyway, does this help at all?
It hasn't been easy but we adjusted.
Diane Huntley
In article <38BB0702...@home.com>, pbrou...@home.com says...
>
>We have recently acquired a lakeland terrier 8 month old puppy after
>settling on the breed for companionship for my wife. The wife has
>bonded big time with the puppy. He is a really great dog with a
>wonderful but stubborn personality. We have an older (15) yellow lab
>mix, who is ok with the puppy. The problem is the puppy won't get along
>with our two cats. Both are used to our other dog. Our yellow Morris
>cat is willing to be friends with the puppy, the other
>(siamese/himalayan) howls and turns into a bundle of claws. The puppy
>will chase after the yellow cat, and nips at it. If we leave them both
>in the house, the yellow will jump up somewhere high while the puppy
>barks for hours at him.
>
> We love our cats, and getting rid of the puppy is not an option. He is
>real company for my stay at home wife, who also has a chronic illness
>that sometimes leaves her housebound. I've searched deja, came up with a
>few tips, but need more. Is there some procedure or tips any one can
>offer? Website, perhaps?
>
>TIA,
Toni
J1Boss <j1b...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000228210420...@ng-df1.aol.com...
> Lakeland's can be pretty tough cookies - a whole lot different from a lab,
and
> a puppy SO different from an elderly dog. Cats don't always learn to
cope.
> You may find yourself with a constant battle or a segregation situation.
At the very least, please set up some gates so the cats always have an
option to leave.
They can either go over a gate, or you can place it up just high enough that
they can go under, and the puppy cannot.
Let them have full house access, and keep the puppy under direct
observation. Don't let him form a habit of tormenting your other animals.
--
Toni
www.irish-wolfhounds.com
Check the "Update on Steve"
Jerry Howe
You got a lot of nerve posting your idiotic opinions and VICIOUS and
MISTAKEN approach to behavior problems you DON'T UNDERSTAND...
I keep telling you to get better or GET THE HELL OUT OF THIS BUSINESS
before you HARM any more dogs or the families that love them...
"J1Boss" <j1b...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:20000228210420...@ng-df1.aol.com...
> ******* In my experience,
First, YOU DON'T HAVE THE EXPERIENCE OR KNOWLEDGE TO HELP ANYONE. You
can't even help yourself.
> I've found it's best to "grin and bear it" ("bear"
> being the operative word!).
That and asking stupid questions and NEVER having a competent answer,
are where YOU start and finish.
You've got no business being in THIS BUSINESS.
> It's tough to introduce certain pets.
For YOU, doing ANYTHING without HURTING DOGS is impossible.
> The newcomer gets leashed.
That's because ALL YOU KNOW is to FORCE CONTROL and CONFRONT and
CHALLENGE BEHAVIORS.
> That doesn't mean you necessarily have to HOLD the
> leash, but it's on for enforcement of "LEAVE THE CAT
> ALONE!"
RIGHT. You're going to tell these people to FIGHT with the dog, and
MAKE HIM HATE THE CAT???
That's ALL you and your pals KNOW. Why can't you LEARN to handle and
train dogs WITHOUT CHOKING and CONFRONTING them, and MAKING AN
ARGUMENT where there should be NONE.
THAT'S why YOU confine dogs UNTIL they are almost two years old and
UNTIL YOU have FOUGHT with them over EVERY behavior they can possibly
have...
> The MORE they asre together, the less interesting they find
> each other.
NOT IF YOU KEEP CHOKING AND FIGHTING WITH THEM.
> It can be grueling at first, with cetain combinations, but worth
> the effort in the,long run.
No, boss. What's GRUELING is YOU running off at the mouth with
erroneous ideas about CONFLICTING with dogs instead of TRAINING them.
> You can stop that barking at the old dog, for instance with a
> "no - QUIET" and > enforce it with a collar correction if
> necessary. <
RIGHT, WHEN YOU DON'T KNOW WHAT TO DO, CHOKE. Oh, you call that a
correction. Sorry. We'll call it a choking correction???
What part of the CHOKING will make the dog like the other animal???
> Obedience class would be of great benefot as well, of course!
So they can learn to CHOKE properly???
> Lakeland's can be pretty tough cookies - a whole lot different
> from a lab, and a puppy SO different from an elderly dog.
A dog is a dog. boss here isn't bright enough to figure that out
yet...
> Cats don't always learn to cope.
That's not been my experience. But I don't go around MAKING MY DOGS
HATE CATS by CHOKING THEM everytime they see the cat...
> You may find yourself with a constant battle or a segregation
> situation.
That's GUARANTEED with the CRUMMY ADVICE YOU GAVE.
> I've taken care of a lot of dogs over the years. Few terriers
> have been welcomed by my cats.
small wonder. YOU create problems by CHOKING the dog.
> I have a friend who's cat has lived in the basement for
> the last almost 6 years, because of the resident terrier (who
> was acquired well after the cat). It's a tough combination that
> an owner can't fail to be "on top" of.
That's YOUR friend following YOUR CRUMMY ADVICE. What ELSE would we
expect?
> My dogs (retrievers) dont' think much of terrier ways of playing
> either - they mostly use creative avoidance. Terriers are
> great dogs in the right circumstances and households, but
> mixing with other types of pets often causes very stressful
> situations.
YOU JUST KEEP RUNNING YOUR IGNORANT YAP, and NEVER have INFORMATION,
except to choke and punish behaviors, and to confine and exercise the
dogs everyday TO AVOID BEHAVIOR PROBLEMS>
boss, you are an IDIOT>
> Let us know how it works out.
Sure. He's going to jerk and choke the dog every time he sees the
cat, and YOU are going to say, "it just won't work out, because of
the breed, or age, or "anything," EXCEPT that YOU GAVE CRUMMY
ADVICE...
> Janet Boss
See boss? If you had decent information, you wouldn't look like an
idiot (so much), until you start playing twenty questions again,
looking for a problem where there is none...BECAUSE YOU DON'T HAVE
ANY ADVICE!
Jerry Howe
"Diane Huntley" <dhun...@law1.law.virginia.edu> wrote in message
news:89h0tu$bb4$1...@murdoch.acc.Virginia.EDU...
> Paul, a couple of years ago I moved my Sheltie and two cats
> into a house that already had a Westie (Westhighland
> Terrier). The Westie was already 12 yrs old so I kinda of
> have the opposite problem that you have. Both dogs get
> along but the Westie never had and never will get along with a
> cat.
Says who?
> Knowing that there would be no way to teach an old dog to
> change his life, I put a baby gate up in a hallway.
You mean NOT KNOWING HOWE to teach an old dog to change his life, led
you to AVOID the problem, instead of using appropriate training
methods to address the issues.
See, that's the other advantage of NOT USING force and confrontation
to address behavior problems. We never have a dog TOO OLD to learn,
only trainers too stupid to learn what they need to know...
> The two cats have my bedroom and my daughters bedroom to
> roam and the Westie has the rest of the house.
That's why we use something called training, to overcome such
problems.
> This works for me mainly because the Westie is not mine and
> I don't mind the fact he can't follow me into my bedroom. My
> Sheltie is able to follow me everywhere. One of the cats (the
> younger Siamese) sneaks out of the rooms and makes
> occasional raids to other rooms. When she does it she's
> always on the lookout for that "devil dog".
That's because you never taught the dogs not to harrass the cats.
> Anyway, does this help at all?
Only if we want an example of WHAT NOT TO DO...
> It hasn't been easy but we adjusted.
So, you recommend that to others? Why? That's hardly an ideal
situation.
> Diane Huntley
"Thus we should beware of clinging to vulgar opinions, and
judge things by reason's way, not by popular say." Montaigne
"Violence is the last refuge of the incompetent." Salvor Hardin
"If you cannot convince them, confuse them." H.S. Truman.
;~) DRAINING THE SWAMP, AND RELOCATING THE GATORS... J>>>
"CUSTOM WILL RECONCILE PEOPLE TO ANY ATROCITY." G.B. Shaw.
"I know that most men, including those at ease with problems
of the greatest complexity, can seldom accept even the
simplest and most obvious truth if it would oblige them to
admit the falsity of conclusions which they have delighted in
explaining to colleagues, proudly taught to others, and which
they have woven, thread by thread, into the fabric of their
lives."
Leo Tolstoy
Is it any wonder that the following sig file has generated more
complaints to my personal email than any other controversial
post I have made to date, bar none?:
caveat
If you have to do things to your dog to train him, that you would
rather not have to do, then you shouldn't be doing them. If you
have a dog trainer that tells you to jerk your dog around, choke
him, pinch his ears, or twist his toes, shock, shake, slap, scold,
hit, or punish him in any manner, that corrections are
appropriate, that the dog won't think of you as the punisher,
or that corrections are not harmful, or if they can't train your
dog to do what you want, look for a trainer that knows Howe.
Sincerely,
Jerry Howe,
Wits' End Dog Training
Witse...@aol.com
http://www.doggydoright.com
Nature, to be mastered, must be obeyed.
-Francis Bacon-
There are terrible people who, instead of solving a problem,
bungle it and make it more difficult for all who come after. Who
ever can't hit the nail on the head should, please, not hit at all.
-Nietzsche-
The abilities to think, rationalize and solve problems are learned
qualities.
The Wits' End Dog Training Method challenges the learning
centers in the dogs brain. These centers, once challenged,
develop and continue to grow exponentially, to make him smarter.
The Wits' End Dog Training method capitalizes on praising split
seconds of canine thought, strategy, and timing, not mindless
hours of forced repetition, constant corrections, and scolding.
-Jerry Howe-
Jerry Howe
"Cindy Tittle Moore" <tit...@io.com> wrote in message
news:89u51n$e68$1...@eris.io.com...
> "Jerry Howe" <jh...@cfl.rr.com> writes:
>
> <speculative yap snipped>
There's NO speculation. YOU HURT DOGS to train them. I don't.
> Ah, babydoll! I don't speculate! My questions are based on
> exactly what YOU'VE said.
What I DO has NOTHING to do with what YOU DO>
> See, I have the brains to save your stupidity,
IF you had the BRAINS to TRAIN DOGS WITHOUT HURTING THEM, we wouldn't
be having these little DIFFERENCES OF OPINION about CHOKING and
SHOCKING and TWISTING and PINCHING DOGS EARS and TOES to HURT them.
But INSTEAD, you argue that twisting and pinching ears and toes is
appropriate and that you do not use PAIN to train...
That's ALL YOU KNOW. You aren't a dog trainer, you are a vicious
little dominatrix with a bad attitude and NO BRAINS.
You are full of CRAP, and EVERYBODY KNOWS IT, thanks to ME>
> and this is the result: Hints about your SPIKE'N'SQUIRT
> method of dog training! How do you do it, jer-babes??
I have not gone into my methods in detail, but we will when you are
ready to learn something about NOT HURTING DOGS.
You aren't ready yet, because you are STILL trying to DENY that YOU
HURT DOGS because YOU are TOO FREAKING STUPID and DON'T KNOW ANY DAMN
BETTER.
"Cindy Tittle Moore" <tit...@io.com> wrote in message
news:89a9n2$qnl$1...@fnord.io.com...
> Note: this subject line is entirely misleading. I do not, nor does
> anyone else in this thread that I know of, "train by pain."
Can I start calling YOU a LIAR as of NOW? I think YOU just earned
your title...J>
Do the rescue folks KNOW HOWE cindymoron twists and pinches dog's
ears and toes and shocks and jerks and chokes dogs to "train" them?
Does she use the ear pinch THERAPEUTICALLY to REHABILITATE DOGS, like
lyingfrostydahly said SHE does?
You should be ASHAMED of yourself and EMBARRASSED to DEATH.
Does anybody know HOWE a dog sounds when he's
SQUEALING because his ears or toes are being pinched and
twisted and he's getting the shit and piss SHOCKED out of him?
Cindy moore does. Ask her.
She'll tell you she doesn't twist?
She'll tell you she doesn't hurt?
She'll tell you that FEAR, FORCE, AND PUNISHMENT is
necessary for ALL "ADVANCED TRAINING", to enhance the
bond between "trainer" and dog and achieve the higher aspects
of obedience through TWISTING and PINCHING EARS and
TOES, and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS...
Let's hear cindy moore and pals SQUEAL for a change.
Ask her about the toe hitch.
Ask her about "table work."
Ask her why she HURTS dogs, and calls that training? Ask her
why she WON'T answer these questions like her pal
lyingfrostydahly did below, when she EARNED HER LYING
TITLE???
Here's what our respected amy dahl has to say about ear and
toe pinching and twisting and BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS.
TELL US YOU DON'T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron...:
Here's what our respected friend and rpdb contributor amy dahl
has to say about ear and toe pinching and twisting and
BEATING DOGS WITH STICKS.
TELL US YOU DON'T DO THE SAME THINGS, cindymoron...:
Amy Dahl LIES with a straight face and says:
>>> I don't beat dogs, twist ears, or pinch toes.
>> > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force1.html
>> > http://www.oakhillkennel.com/library/force/force2.html???
Aren't those YOUR OWN WORDS??? But YOU don't DO THAT???
People, this is HOWE consistency works, and most particularly
well with dogs, because here, the same methods are being used
to INFLUENCE YOU, and YOU certainly are more intellectually
capable of solving problems and have greater critical thinking
skills than your dogs..., and these methods work on YOU>
>>> That article, reprinted from The Retriever Journal, is
>>> the words of my husband John and myself.
Meaning "We'll share the credit, making it more credible??? Or
we'll share the blame, to mitigate our own individual
responsibility and guilt..." YOU decide, it's not my business
where the blame falls.
>>> For the benefit of anyone who is in doubt, and who chooses
>>> not to read the article, there is NO mention in it of "twisting
>>> ears,"
From the text">>>"
">>>Now you are ready to progress to what most people think of
as force-fetching: the ear pinch.>>>
>>>"but will squeal, thrash around, and direct their efforts to
escaping the ear pinch>>>
>>>You can press the dog's ear with a shotshell instead of your
thumb;>>>
>>> even get a studded collar and pinch the ear against
that>>>
>>> Make the dog's need to stop the pinching so urgent that
resisting your will fades in importance.>>>
>>>Say "fetch" while pressing the dummy against its lips and pinching
its ear.>>>
>>> if the dog still does not open its mouth, get out the shotshell.
Try pinching the ear between the metal casing and the collar,
even the buckle on the collar. Persist! Eventually, the dog will
give in>>>"
Right... Didn't lyingfrostydahly just deny all of that? There's
more... That was just a little about ear pinching, and no there
was NO MENTION of twisting ears... cindy moore has all that
information for you...
Does it really matter? The semantics of whether we're twisting
or pinching or slapping or hitting or correcting or nicking instead
of BURNING???
The only terminology that doesn't have any NEAT euphemisms
to take the CURSE off what our respected "trainers" actually
MEAN (see definitions of punishment thread), is HANGING to
REHABILITATE the dog, as ALL of our Koehler fans MUST
endorse. Also notice the use of "it" for dog and "the" for him or
YOUR DOG.
That's not coincidental, it's all part of the psychologically and
very cleverly designed DESENSITIZATION and
MISINFORMATION necessary to REDUCE a good person
to ACCEPT and DO HORRIBLE THINGS to dogs and TRYING
to call ABUSE training.
These are the subtle differences between being an expert dog
trainer and some morally bankrupt vicious rotten abusive cretin
that goes to jail for abusing dogs... But don't lose interest now
folks, there's more...
>>> NO mention whatsoever of dogs' toes in any context,
>>> and NO mention of "beating" dogs.
RIGHT...
Perhaps cindymoron would be good enough to teach us more
about the toe twist? We'll ask her to address the toe pinch.
lyingfrostydahly: ">>>Get a stick 30- or 40-inches long.
You can have a helper wield the stick, or do it yourself. Tougher,
less tractable dogs may require you to progress to striking them
more sharply.>>>
>>> With your hand on the collar and ear, say, "fetch."
Immediately tap the dog on the hindquarters with the
stick. Repeat "fetch" and pinch the ear all the way to the dummy.
>>>Repeat, varying how hard you hit the dog,>>>"
Wouldn't you think that was despicable enough even just writing
that, let alone risk suffering the embarrassment of not only
having that attributed to yourself, but in fact denying your best
work and PROVING YOURSELF A SHAMELESS LIAR AND
ADVOCATE OF DOG ABUSE??? But it goes on...
>>> chuck (for the uninitiated, "chuck" means strike) the dog
under the chin with your ever-ready right hand while saying
"No!">>>
>>>If the dog drops it, chuck (slap) it solidly under the chin, say
"No! Hold!" use a chuck (slap) under the chin or pinch its ear
and place the dummy in its mouth.>>>
>>> If it doesn't make rapid progress, you can increase the
pressure by requiring it to pick up the dropped dummy (stay on
the ear until it does).>>>
>>>(perhaps because the ear is getting tender, or the dog has
decided it isn't worth it).>>> pinch its ear and say, "fetch,">>>
Here we have consistency and a plea for reason, directly in
contradiction to the blackman and white facts signed and
published by our expert trainer... Accordingly, the consistency
of constant repetitions of your requests for understanding and
compliance from your dogs, dictates that YOU WILL GET IT.
So long as you are consistent and keep repeating the exact
same scenario, no matter what... Including and especially when
you calculatedly and intentionally deny the truth and make your
requests seem reasonable, THEY EXPECT YOU TO BELIEVE
that such behavior is NORMAL.
> In our training we do not do any of these things, nor do we
> advocate them to others.
See what I mean? Character, morals, ethics, integrity, human
decency? 0.000%. Not a shred. She might have scored 0.001 had she NOT
LIED ABOUT IT.
>>>"Any refusals are corrected with the ear pinch. When
performance is smooth, the stick can be added just as in the
fetch from a sitting position. If the previous steps have been
carefully done, the dog will soon be lunging eagerly for each
dummy as soon as it sees it.>>>
This is HOWE they get that happy excited working attitude that
they all talk about... That's their criteria for making their dogs
happy, willing team mates...They BEAT IT INTO THE DOG.
That's WHY Jerry's HIGH-STAKES challenge to frantik fraud die... His
dog isn't working, she's AVOIDING GETTING BURNED...I'll walk away
with HIS national champion "protection" dog and show him up for the
vicious loudmouth ignoramus he is.
And there's a jail cell waiting for cindy moore if she ever
demonstrates HER forced fetch in front of A JURY composed of
ANY DECENT human beings.
> Jerry Howe has once again demonstrated his lack of
> reading comprehension.
Right. Perhaps that's because I get a little disturbed with all of
the abuse, and I begin reading more into it than what the author
intended???...
>>>"Slip an empty shotshell into your pocket before the next
session. As always, begin with some review. Then sit the dog.
Take hold of its buckle collar and ear as follows. Slide the last
three fingers of your left hand towards the dog's head under the
collar, and curl them over the collar to grasp it firmly. With your
thumb and index finger, pull the dog's left ear back over the
collar (inside up) and hold it there gently. The "ear pinch" is
administered by pressing with your thumbnail at the boundary
between hair and bare skin (don't pinch yet). Depending on the
size and strength of your hands, you may want to press against
the collar or against your index finger.>>>
>>>You want it to get the idea that the ear-pinch means,>>> If
the dog clenches its mouth shut, you may be in for another
extended session. Keep pinching and press the dummy harder
against the dog's lips.>>>
>>>Repeat "fetch." Again, keep your voice calm. If several
minutes pass and>>> You don't want the dog to think that it is
"beating the pinch" Any time it is slow, pinch!>>> As mentioned
previously, it is important not to establish a pattern of struggling
with the dog physically. If you cannot physically restrain the dog,
increasing the pressure may do the trick.>>> Be sure you are in
position with your hold on collar and ear every time you give the
command,">>>
Here's a couple MORE quotes from the links above, from our
own respected Amy Dahl's published text:
>>>"it transfers much of the momentum-producing power of the
ear pinch to the stick, thus providing a basis for force-on-back.
you want to make the dog think that by going fast it can avoid
the stick. >>>
>>> As it catches on, try using the stick and no ear pinch.
When the dog is digging out to beat the stick and seems totally
reliable without any ear pinch, you are finished>>>
No, YOU'RE FINISHED. You AND YOUR PALS.
>>> This is continued resistance to your increasing authority,
and the job is not done until it is overcome. we do not
recommend that inexperienced trainers use this heavy-handed
approach.>>>
>>> Amy Frost Dahl Retriever Training phone: (910) 295-6710
>>> Oak Hill Kennel & Handling email: a...@oakhillkennel.com
>>> Pinehurst, NC 28370
Lets move on, and get this past us. This should be totally
ignored, and everyone can forget all about it, like it doesn't
happen... That's what these people are trying to get you to
believe, and that's what all the commotion is about... Please do
not quote my messages in their entirety, because it may be
upsetting to others with weak stomachs and human conscience...
">>>and pinch its ear if a dummy or bird is ever dropped. While
force-fetching is now complete, training has become more
varied and interesting and we are sure you will want to
continue.>>>"
I don't think that YOU people are going to WANT TO CONTINUE
before I'M done with you... Bye, bye!!! J>>>
sicommis
etc.) to ensure that the cats get enough exercise? Sure they spend a lot of
time sleeping throughout the day, but cats generally need a good bit of space
to ensure they get the exercise they need. Just curious...
Cindi, Little Bones, Persephone & Mavvie (Rainbow Bridge)
Diane Huntley wrote:
> Paul, a couple of years ago I moved my Sheltie and two cats into a house
> that already had a Westie (Westhighland Terrier). The Westie was already
> 12 yrs old so I kinda of have the opposite problem that you have. Both
> dogs get along but the Westie never had and never will get along with a
> cat. Knowing that there would be no way to teach an old dog to change his
> life, I put a baby gate up in a hallway. The two cats have my bedroom and
> my daughters bedroom to roam and the Westie has the rest of the house.
> This works for me mainly because the Westie is not mine and I don't mind
> the fact he can't follow me into my bedroom. My Sheltie is able to follow
> me everywhere. One of the cats (the younger Siamese) sneaks out of the
> rooms and makes occasional raids to other rooms. When she does it she's
> always on the lookout for that "devil dog". Anyway, does this help at all?
> It hasn't been easy but we adjusted.
>
> Diane Huntley
>
Diane Huntley
also have all my furniture to "play" on. In the evenings when I come home from
work I try to spend "quality" time with them. And as I think I mentioned,
the younger cat makes raids into other rooms. That keeps her lively. It's not
a great situation but with the terrier, it's the best we can do. I didn't want
to give up any of my pets. Diane.
In article <38C78515...@hotmail.com>, cotyron...@hotmail.com says...