Painting with Birds in proximity?
Thea Barbato
I'm an artist and have recently started doing oil paintings. I have a flock
of parakeets (well, 8 of them) in my art room where I usually draw. I
prefer to paint in that room too but am somewhat concerned about toxic fumes
from the oil paint I'm using. I could paint elsewhere in the house, but
prefer this room. Also, this is the best room to keep the birds so they're
not subject to be being moved.
Has anyone had experience with this - any artists on the group? I've talked
to a few other bird owners (one of whom is also an artist) and thoughts are
mixed, but generally, the consensus is that if the paints do not emit a
strong odor (it's relatively faint, if at all), then the birds should be
fine. Obviously, I don't want to take any unnecessary risks, though.
Thanks much for any assistance!
Thea.
Louis Boyd
oils. You >will< get down (and other bird residue) on your paintings.
You can't reliably tell if a material is poisonous by it's odor. In a
confined room vapors build up. Oil paint itself isn't bad compared to
many other paints but some of the solvents are toxic. Active
ventilation will dramatically reduce the level of fumes in a room. Set
it a fan blowing out of a screened window so air is drawn with flow away
from you and the birds. It's better for you too.
I'm no artist but I often paint scientific instruments I build. I
wouldn't consider painting anywhere in the house with my birds,
veneration or not. I want the paint job to look decent.
Thea Barbato
Thanks for the input and yes, I actually have thought about the
dander/feathers and bird residue that could end up on the painting too,
which was another part of my hesitation. Obviously, common sense dictates
here, but I wanted additional input as well from other birdowners.
As for painting in my house, there's not a lot of choice - I have to paint
*somewhere* and am not able to rent a studio at this point. I will restrict
it to an area where there are no birds, but can't not do it at all. Some of
my subjects are parrots (just completed an African Grey if anyone would like
to see) so if the odd bit of feather gets on it, then I guess I can call it
a collage : - ). Just kidding!
Thank you for your kind response - that's what this group is for. . . to
share experiences, information, and opinion, so that we can each benefit as
much as possible!
Thea
"Louis Boyd" <bo...@apt0.sao.arizona.edu> wrote in message
news:ei02se$r45$1...@onion.ccit.arizona.edu...
nonnymoose
From the Union of Concerned Scientists
http://www.ucsusa.org/publications/greentips/305-the-dangers-of-modern-art.html
The Dangers of Modern Art
March 2005
Some art supplies contain ingredients that are harmful to both humans
and the environment. These include naturally occurring heavy metals such
as lead, cobalt, cadmium, and manganese, and volatile organic compounds
(VOCs) such as turpentine, xylene, acetone, and toluene. So, how can you
express yourself creatively while protecting the environment?
Know what you’re buying. The federal government requires that hazardous
art supplies be labeled as such. In addition, the Art and Creative
Materials Institute (ACMI) has developed two supplemental labels to help
guide your purchasing decisions:
*
AP (Approved Product)—Indicates that the product contains no
materials in sufficient quantities to be toxic. It replaces an older AP
seal as well as the CP (Certified Product) and HL (Health Label)
Non-Toxic seals. The ACMI website lists all products bearing this label.
*
CL (Cautionary Label)—Indicates that the product contains toxic
substances but is fully tested and sufficiently labeled with warnings
and safe use information. It replaces the HL Cautions Required seal.
If a product’s ingredients are not listed on the label, consult the
manufacturer’s material safety data sheet (MSDS), which lists toxic
ingredients and provides guidance on spill cleanup and waste disposal.
You can request an MSDS directly from the manufacturer or search the
online MSDS database maintained by United Art and Education.
Find suitable alternatives.
*
Paint—In general, water-based paints (watercolors, tempera,
acrylic, gouache) are the best choice. They contain fewer VOCs and don’t
need chemical solvents for cleanup. Choose paint colors made from
organic pigments such as madder (red) and indigo (blue).
*
Paint thinner—If water-based paint won’t meet your artistic
needs, use citrus-based solvents (BioShield Natural Citrus Thinner is an
example) in place of turpentine and mineral spirits to thin paints and
clean brushes.
*
Crayons—Many crayons are made from petroleum-based paraffin wax.
Soybean oil- and beeswax-based crayons provide environmentally friendly
alternatives.
*
Inks and markers—Water-based and varnish-free products are a good
choice for illustrators and calligraphers because they contain fewer (or
no) VOCs.
*
Paper—Choose paper products (including mat and mounting boards)
that contain the highest percentage of post-consumer recycled content.
Tree-free papers made from kenaf, cotton, hemp, and other natural fibers
can also be used.
When the time comes to dispose of these materials, check your local
waste regulations. Some products might be considered hazardous waste and
cannot be thrown out with the trash.
Some links:
Art Safety Training Guide
http://web.princeton.edu/sites/ehs/artsafety/sec10.htm
United Art
http://www.unitednow.com/health/health.asp
matt weber
I wouldn't worry all that much about oil based paints on canvas. You
just aren't putting much in the way of VOC's into the air. There is
little in the way of VOC's in those paints. They harden more than they
dry as the oils oxidize more than they evaporate.
Painting the room is another matter, as of course is a canvas the size
of the room. However I'd suggest you clean your brushes and pallete
somewhere else. Minineral spirits, turpentine, and paint thinners are
all bad news for birds.
Thea Barbato
"nonnymoose" <no...@example.net> wrote in message
news:JoidnehHauK6b97Y...@trueband.net...
> Materials Institute (ACMI) has developed two supplemental labels to help
> guide your purchasing decisions:
>
> *
> seal as well as the CP (Certified Product) and HL (Health Label) Non-Toxic
> seals. The ACMI website lists all products bearing this label.
> *
> safe use information. It replaces the HL Cautions Required seal.
>
> manufacturer痴 material safety data sheet (MSDS), which lists toxic
> can request an MSDS directly from the manufacturer or search the online
> MSDS database maintained by United Art and Education.
>
> Find suitable alternatives.
>
> *
> gouache) are the best choice. They contain fewer VOCs and don稚 need
> pigments such as madder (red) and indigo (blue).
> *
> in place of turpentine and mineral spirits to thin paints and clean
> brushes.
> *
> alternatives.
> *
> no) VOCs.
> *
> Tree-free papers made from kenaf, cotton, hemp, and other natural fibers
> can also be used.
>
> When the time comes to dispose of these materials, check your local waste
> regulations. Some products might be considered hazardous waste and cannot
> be thrown out with the trash.
>
> Some links:
>
> Art Safety Training Guide
> http://web.princeton.edu/sites/ehs/artsafety/sec10.htm
>
> United Art
> http://www.unitednow.com/health/health.asp
>
>
review it as I continue with my art endeavors!
Thea
Thea Barbato
"matt weber" <matth...@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:njs7k2td9qsvv3mgg...@4ax.com...
Thanks for the info - I'm not up to room size canvases at this point, LOL,
and don't anticipate them getting anywhere near that size! Brush cleaning
is done elsewhere entirely so that's no problem. But given the nature of
the post prior to yours, how do I *really* know that the VOC's in my paints
are not that much? Probably better to be safe than sorry and also gauge the
products themselves for toxicity.
Appreciate the response!
Thanks,
Thea
matt weber
<tbar...@carolina.rr.com> wrote:
Artist oil paints are in tubes, not bottles or cans. They are much
thicker than normal paint, which means they have much less solvent in
them. They are more like paste than liquid. If you want to make them
liquidm, add the VOC's...
Thea Barbato
Thanks for the clarification - a chemist I'm not : - )! I appreciate any
valid info I can get that will help me protect my fids!
T.