Honda EU generator for RV and house -which one?
Rob C
We are in need of a generator for the trailer for charging up batteries and
running 3 items while camping off the beaten path. We have a 13 inch TV we
use for watching video's if the weather is poor and like to heat a few
things in the microwave (900w). I figure about a total of 1000w if all are
TV,VCR,Microwave. If the batteries are down we probably will pull more as
the charger will also be operating. So I'm thinking the EU2000 will do
nicely. It weighs about 50 pounds so easy to load and unload and store.
but
We need a generator for backup power for our house. Power can be down for
up to 1 week in a bad snow storm. I figured to run the furnace and pumps,
lights, entertainment TV/VCR and misc lights we need about 3000 W. For this
it seems that the EU3000 would do nicely. But this thing is very
heavy-about 140 pounds. It would not be convenient to take in the trailer.
now
I hear you can parallel connect two EU2000 units. This seems perfect, as
well as economical for gas useage when all the power is not needed. Do
experienced users know if when parallel does the AC come from one cord? I
mean, I need to connect this to a transfer switch at the house, and it only
takes 1 cord. I really don't want to deal with two seperate AC feeds from
each generator unless you could have a Y connector type thing.
Also I'm not sure why 2 EU2000's weigh in at 100 pounds and the EU3000 is at
140 pounds?
Anyone with similar setup wish to comment? This will be my first generator.
Any other gotcha's?
Regards,
Rob
Hillsboro, Oregon
Dee Crabtree
Rob C wrote:
I have two EU2000i (about $850 ea) which I connect in parallel. The
parallel connector is an option (about $220). The connector gives you a
50A 125V receptacle. You need a matching plug (about $32) with adapter
about ($16) to fit your RV. You end up with one 30A or 50A power cord
from your RV to the connector box, and one set of leads from each EU to
the connector box. Yes, it is a "y-connector type thing".
You end up with up to 4000w max (surge) and up to 3200w rated load
(that's continuous output).
(FYI #1: the EU3000i is 3000w max and 2800w rated load so the EU3000i
will not provide enough power to run your house if you need continuous
3000w)
(FYI #2: the EU1000i at 1000w/900w would be overloaded when you MW that
cup of java, while watching the TV and wife turns on lights to read the
latest Danielle Steel novel.)
Parallel works well, very quiet, runs long time on little fuel, easy to
move around (which means it is also easy to steal). I like mine.....
Crabby
Dee Crabtree
Rob C wrote:
>
>
> Anyone with similar setup wish to comment? This will be my first generator.
> Any other gotcha's?
>
> Regards,
> Rob
> Hillsboro, Oregon
>
>
>
I have two EU2000i (about $850 ea) which I connect in parallel. The
Chris Bryant
>We need a generator for backup power for our house. Power can be down for
>up to 1 week in a bad snow storm. I figured to run the furnace and pumps,
>lights, entertainment TV/VCR and misc lights we need about 3000 W.
I'm sure you have thought of this- but make certain that the
furnace blower motor and pump motor are 120 volt- not 240. Many
furnace motors can be wired for 120, but I doubt that most pumps can.
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
GBinNC
<rob_jenny...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Also I'm not sure why 2 EU2000's weigh in at 100 pounds and the EU3000 is at
>140 pounds?
Perhaps it's because:
1. the 3000 puts out 1.5 times more power than the 2000 and therefore
needs to be bigger and more heavy-duty; and
2. the EU3000i has electric start (as well as manual).
GB in NC
HLBRSMA
That adds a battery and a starting motor to the weight.It takes 2 people to
move the EU3000i. Having to start the EU2000i manually is not an issue to be
considered any one including a 5yr old is able to start the EU2000i.
I have used the EU2000i in an emergency I had one running the refrigerator and
lights at one end of the house and the other taking care of the furnace at the
other that worked quite well, and like Chris Bryant pointed out they will not
run any of your 220 circuits. I also use both to run the TT and throw one in
the boat when I stay out and anchor in SF Bay somewhere.Those little gens are
the best thing since sliced bread. Stu
GBinNC
>>2. the EU3000i has electric start (as well as manual).
>That adds a battery and a starting motor to the weight.It takes 2 people to
>move the EU3000i.
Well, I *can* move mine alone (carried it up a flight of stairs once),
but it's a heck of a lot easier with two people.
>Having to start the EU2000i manually is not an issue to be
>considered any one including a 5yr old is able to start the EU2000i.
FWIW, it's not an issue with the 3000 either. In fact, when I first
got mine and was playing with it I decided to start it manually so I'd
know what to expect if I ever needed to.
But before I yanked on it to start it I wanted to see how long the
"rope" is, so I started *slowly* pulling it out all the way to look at
it. The engine actually started before I got all the way to the end.
GB in NC
Crashj
> Rob C wrote:
> > Anyone with similar setup wish to comment?
<>
> parallel connector is an option (about $220). The connector gives you a 50A 125V receptacle.
<>
> move around (which means it is also easy to steal). I like mine.....
> Crabby
So where did you steal it from?
Crashj 'all the world wonders' Johnson
Neon John
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>We are in need of a generator for the trailer for charging up batteries and
>running 3 items while camping off the beaten path. We have a 13 inch TV we
>use for watching video's if the weather is poor and like to heat a few
>things in the microwave (900w). I figure about a total of 1000w if all are
>TV,VCR,Microwave. If the batteries are down we probably will pull more as
>the charger will also be operating. So I'm thinking the EU2000 will do
>nicely. It weighs about 50 pounds so easy to load and unload and store.
>
>but
>
>We need a generator for backup power for our house. Power can be down for
>up to 1 week in a bad snow storm. I figured to run the furnace and pumps,
>lights, entertainment TV/VCR and misc lights we need about 3000 W. For this
>it seems that the EU3000 would do nicely. But this thing is very
>heavy-about 140 pounds. It would not be convenient to take in the trailer.
You need two generators. Here's why.
For the RV you need a generator that is lightweight and very quiet. All your
RV loads are 120 volt so you want the entire generator output to be available
at that voltage. Assuming you camp a lot, you'll want a durable generator
that will run for years with little maintenance.
For your house, you need much more power plus the reserve to start fairly
large induction motors, perhaps with other loads already running. Weight
really isn't an issue and noise is much less so. Unless you happen to live in
an area that suffers routine blackouts, this generator will get very little
use and so long term durability isn't such an issue. Your house's essential
loads are a mixture of 120 and 240 volts. Your well pump is almost surely 240
volts. Guaranteed to be if it's submersible. Your furnace fan is also 240
volts. The control system of the furnace and the rest of the loads in your
house are likely 120. Therefore you need a generator that provides split
240/120 VAC just like your utility service. You'll probably need at least 5
KVA to have enough reserve to start the well pump. Finally, it would be very
nice to have electric starting so you don't have to tromp out in a blizzard or
whatever to crank on your generator.
These requirements are almost mutually exclusive. The Honda EU series is
perfect for your RV. The intermediate quality lines of stationary generators
are what you want for your house needs. These are generators that are a step
above contractor grade generators but below the quality and quietness of the
EUs. The Honda EB and EM series fit the bill. So do the Yamahas. Northern
has a house brand that uses Honda industrial engines that are also nice.
These don't have the extensive soundproofing of the EUs and Onan RV generators
but they are not unpleasant. A neighboring RV at a flea market I attended
last weekend was using one of the Honda-engined Northern generators. I could
not hear it inside my rig with my AC on. At home, simple baffling such as
building a wooden fence around the unit or even propping plywood or cardboard
sheets up against the generator will deflect the sound upward. This is a
trick I use with a high powered generator when doing food concessions.
Running it inside a detached garage or other outbuilding will almost
completely attenuate the noise.
I use a yamaha EC-4000DV 4kw generator for routine blackout backup as well as
some concession work. It falls into this intermediate range. It can't be
heard above the normal din of a special event. It is completely inaudible
inside my apartment even though I run it right outside my door. I have over
4000 hours on it with no maintenance other than changing the oil and air
filter. Not counting the voltage regulator that I smoked (and subsequently
repaired) while trying to run a MIG welder on it (DON'T try this at home,
kiddies.)
I just happened to be down at Northern Tool today looking large generators for
my concession operation. One thing interesting I noticed about the Northern
brand and at least one Honda is a switch that changes from 240/120 to pure 120
VAC. This switch reconfigures the windings so that the full output of the
generator is available as 120 volts if the 240 volts output isn't needed.
Unfortunately I've never seen this feature on any of the quiet model lines.
The nice thing about the intermediate quality class is that it is very
competitive and so the prices are right. For about what an EU2000 costs, you
can get 4 to 6kva of capacity in this class of generator. Just make sure
whatever generator you're considering has a japanese brand engine. Briggs has
tried to coat-tail on Honda's rep with a look-alike engine (vanguard) that
certainly doesn't SOUND alike!
John
---
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://personal.bellsouth.net/~johngd
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Jerry Randeff
">
> We need a generator for backup power for our house. Power can be down for
> up to 1 week in a bad snow storm. I figured to run the furnace and pumps,
> lights, entertainment TV/VCR and misc lights we need about 3000 W. For
this
> it seems that the EU3000 would do nicely. But this thing is very
> heavy-about 140 pounds. It would not be convenient to take in the
trailer.
>
I have the EU300 at home. I use a $22 hand truck to move it around. Works
well. These generator are so quite...
I have it for backup-emergency power up here in the Northeast...
Dee Crabtree
Crashj wrote:
> Dee Crabtree wrote ...
>
>
>>Parallel works well, very quiet, runs long time on little fuel, easy to
>>move around (which means it is also easy to steal). I like mine.....
>>Crabby
>>
>
> So where did you steal it from?
>
> Crashj 'all the world wonders' Johnson
>
Now Crashj ... :)
I "stole" them (got a great deal) from Don Mayberry jr at Mayberrys
Sales and Service in NJ. You can find then on line at www.Mayberrys.com
Crabby
Rob C
Very good inputs from all. I like the idea of trading off sound output for
more wattage for the house backup power. I also need to check the
circulating pumps on my furnace to see if they are 240V or 120V. I don't
have a well water, so I don't need to start that huge beasty motor load.
Because we are in blizzard country, I would like to run the generator(s) for
house backup inside my attached garage. Any suggestions for venting the
exhaust? Could I just run a line from the water heater chimmney tubes down
and over the generator muffler? I would feel better with more positive
ventilation, probably something like a kitchen exhaust fan mounted inline
with the vent to the outside. Of course a monoxide detector would be used
and has been used in my house/trailer/garage starting a few years ago. Kind
of a pain when I start the lawn mower it goes off for a bit. I would store
bulk fuel outside in a shed.
So, EU2000 for trailer for sure. Possible 2nd EU2000 or less costly single
unit for house. I'm wondering if I could buy a transformer to step up the
120 to 240 from the EU if I need to? If it is really a true sine wave as
Honda says, then the transformer should be ok and not overheat. (I'm an
electrical engineer profesionally)
Any chance that 2 EU's would start my trailer air conditoner? How do I
figure this out without learning from the school of hard knocks? I just
don't know how these things react to sudden temporary overloads?
Regards,
Rob
"Rob C" <rob_jenny...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:aeavgs$2...@news.or.intel.com...
Mike
Rob C wrote:
<snip>
> Any chance that 2 EU's would start my trailer air conditoner?
Yes.
> How do I figure this out without learning from the school of hard knocks?
http://www.cummins.com/na/pages/en/products/powergeneration/generators/powerrequirements.cfm
Mike
RVChem.net
Dee Crabtree
Rob C wrote:
> Hi,
>
>
> Any chance that 2 EU's would start my trailer air conditoner? How do I
> figure this out without learning from the school of hard knocks? I just
> don't know how these things react to sudden temporary overloads?
>
> Regards,
> Rob
>
Two will start and run the 15K Dometic a/c in my late model 5er. Plus
the microwave, plus the refer, plus tv, plus..... plus .....
If you want to figure out total demand for starting and running your
a/c, look at the info plate on your a/c to get the draw info (start and
running) and compare that to the "max" voltage rating and the load
rating of the genset you are considering. If you want to run more than
the a/c, look at the info plate on each appliance or other equipment...
add 'em up and you will have a idea of what you need...... and give
your self some overhead for that unexpected add on....
Crabby
Neon John
wrote:
>Hi,
>
>Very good inputs from all. I like the idea of trading off sound output for
>more wattage for the house backup power. I also need to check the
>circulating pumps on my furnace to see if they are 240V or 120V. I don't
>have a well water, so I don't need to start that huge beasty motor load.
>
>Because we are in blizzard country, I would like to run the generator(s) for
>house backup inside my attached garage. Any suggestions for venting the
>exhaust? Could I just run a line from the water heater chimmney tubes down
>and over the generator muffler? I would feel better with more positive
>ventilation, probably something like a kitchen exhaust fan mounted inline
>with the vent to the outside. Of course a monoxide detector would be used
>and has been used in my house/trailer/garage starting a few years ago. Kind
>of a pain when I start the lawn mower it goes off for a bit. I would store
>bulk fuel outside in a shed.
I set up an electric start mid-grade honda engines Genrac generator in the
basement of our family cabin in the mountains. (not my choice of generator -
my parents had already taken it upon themselves to buy it before I got
involved.) Here's what I did.
I ran the wiring upstairs so that the generator can be started, stopped and
transferred to the cabin's wiring without going to the basement. I used a
pair of mechanically interlocked contactors (normally used for reversing
service on cranes and such) that I had in my junkbox to do the connection.
These contactors mechanically prevent both from being energized at the same
time so backfeeding is impossible.
I rigged up an automotive electric fuel pump to pump gas from an outside tank
to the generator. I included the fuel pump switch on the upstairs control
panel so that I could shut the generator down by turning off the fuel and
allowing the float bowl to run dry. I made up an adapter that slides over the
generator's exhaust pipe and connects to a run of EMT that pokes through the
wall. This adapter is secured with a pair of self-tapping sheet metal screws.
I don't recall the size EMT I used but I went up a couple of sizes above the
exhaust pipe to minimize backpressure. My wall is block so I didn't have to
worry about heat. I simply drilled a somewhat larger hole and stuffed the
clearance space with fiberglass insulation.
To get the heat out and to remove any exhaust leakage, I installed a small
thorugh-the-wall exhaust fan and dampers (Dayton brand, Graingers.com) along
with a second air inlet damper. These are probably 6" square. The fan is
connected directly to the generator so it runs only when the generator does.
The generator makes sufficient heat to keep the basement warm even with this
ventilation operating in near-zero weather.
We've insulated the floors in the cabin with very heavy fiberglass batting,
both between the studs and stapled across them. This is sufficient to almost
completely muffle the engine noise. We know the generator is running but the
noise is not objectionable.
I used a white poly tank I bought at Northern for the gas tank. It holds 35
gallons. I have it under a little shed to keep the sun off the poly. The sun
both hardens the poly and polymerizes (gums) the gas. A shot of Sta-Bil keeps
the gas fresh. I normally only keep about 5 gallons or so in the tank so it
won't get stale despite the Sta-Bil. I keep about 40 gallons of gas in GI
Jerry Cans in the basement. These are air-tight and with Sta-Bil will keep
the gas fresh for years.
This is a good compromise between allowing a large quantity of gas to sit in
the tank on one hand and not forcing my elderly parents to lug fuel when I'm
not there on the other. The 5-10 gallons in the tank will run the genny for
the better part of a day. I have another automotive fuel pump (a high volume
Holly racing pump) hooked up with hose and gator clips for use as a transfer
pump. I just dump the jerry cans but I've showed my parents how to use this
pump to transfer gas from the Jerry cans when I'm not there. One thing nice
about those Northern poly tanks is the mouth is at least 6" in diameter so
there's a large hole to aim at with the Jerry cans :-)
This setup has worked well. I had one complication in that my well pump is
about 200 feet from the cabin and is fed from a separate utility drop which
comes from a common CT metering point on a pole. Since I could not power the
pump through the utility drop, I had to bury a wire and arrange relay logic to
cut the pump over to the buried wire whenever the power fails. That involved
a DPDT contactor with a 240 volt coil connected across the utility line.
Whenever the power fails, the contactor drops out and defaults to powering the
pump from the buried line which in turn is connected to the generator.
>Any chance that 2 EU's would start my trailer air conditoner? How do I
>figure this out without learning from the school of hard knocks? I just
>don't know how these things react to sudden temporary overloads?
Two should handle one easily. Reports we've seen here indicate that one will
start a Coleman 13,500 btu unit in moderate weather but won't run it in hot
weather. Maybe the high efficiency one would start. Only way to really know
is to talk to someone who's done it and to make sure their experience is in
weather as hot as you expect.
My Onan AJ is at the point of requiring an overhaul. I did some fairly
extensive testing last week to establish a "before" baseline. The engine is
weak enough that it can make 1.9kw max in 80 deg weather. It can start my
13,500 BTU Coleman AC but cannot keep it running once the weather gets above
about 85 deg. When I first got the rig about 3 years ago it COULD run the AC.
I'm sure it was then pretty close to its rated 3kw output.
Given that my degraded generator is operating at about the same output as a
single EU2000, I doubt that you'd be happy with just one but would find two in
parallel quite satisfactory.
The only thing I don't like about a pair of 2000's as opposed to a 3000 is the
lack of electric starting. I really like being able to crank the generator
whenever needed without having to go outside. I'm about 95% sure that I'm
going to modify my generator box so that I can install an EU3000 just because
it is so damned quiet and fuel efficient, particularly at low load.
b b
says...
> I also need to check the
> circulating pumps on my furnace to see if they are 240V or 120V. I don't
> have a well water, so I don't need to start that huge beasty motor load.
all 110V; they are low powered pumps.
>
> Because we are in blizzard country, I would like to run the generator(s) for
> house backup inside my attached garage. Any suggestions for venting the
> exhaust? Could I just run a line from the water heater chimmney tubes down
> and over the generator muffler? I would feel better with more positive
> ventilation, probably something like a kitchen exhaust fan mounted inline
> with the vent to the outside. Of course a monoxide detector would be used
> and has been used in my house/trailer/garage starting a few years ago. Kind
> of a pain when I start the lawn mower it goes off for a bit.
I run my generator in my garage, with the muffler right at the edge of
the garage, pointed out, with the door open at least 4 feet. If the
garage were attached, I would not do that, at least without the monoxide
detector. If your lawnmower sets off the detector when STARTING, I would
expect the generator to set it off when running in the same place. At
that point you will have little choice but to stop the generator.
I did try and help a friend who insists (Duhhhh) on running his generator
in his basement with the bulkhead door open. We ran a metal dryer exhaust
hose attached to the engine muffler with a hose clamp to the lawn outside
the bulkhead. It was a total failure, and leaked exhaust into
the basement terribly. There are totally sealed flexible metal pipes
available that might thread into your engine exhaust port and allow a
PIPE to the outside. The vibration must be accomodated, so the sealed
pipe remains sealed without unduely stressing anything. Even small
exhaust leaks are dangerous, as evidenced by the unacceptability of them
in auto exhaust pipes, which hang in open air.
Hope this helps,
Barrie B
Madeleine
you think the Honda2000EU alone would handle a 5000 btu AC unit?
--
Peace, Love and Serenity,
Madeleine
http://members.ebay.com/aboutme/madewar/
www.anticattic.com
"Neon John" <johngdDO...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:090lguseq8od3buot...@4ax.com...
: On Fri, 14 Jun 2002 13:30:29 -0700, "Rob C"
:
:
GBinNC
<rob_jenny...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>I'm wondering if I could buy a transformer to step up the
>120 to 240 from the EU if I need to? If it is really a true sine wave as
>Honda says, then the transformer should be ok and not overheat. (I'm an
>electrical engineer profesionally)
I have an EU3000i and would love to be able to do what you describe.
If it can be done, please explain how... (I'm *not* an electrical
engineer, even "amateurally." <g>)
GB in NC
Alan Robinson
"GBinNC" <GBi...@yahoooo.com> wrote in message
news:qtalgugq9il1hf7n0...@4ax.com...
GB,
Pretty simple, really - although not necessarily cheap. The
120v from the genset gets connected to the input winding(s) of a
transformer, and the output winding(s) of the transformer are
configured with a center-tap neutral to give you your familiar
120 - 0 - 120 with 240v between the two 120's. The caveats are:
(1)The transformer must be rated for *at least* the output
capabilities of the genset, or the maximum load you might try to
put on it, whichever is less. (2) Transformers are designed for
60hz sine-wave ac. Although they are usually pretty efficient,
you will lose some of your genset output warming up the
transformer - and the further the genset output is from a sine
wave, the more loss (and heating) there will be. (3) Depending on
the inverter design in the genset, it might not *like* that much
inductive load - with possible results ranging from unstable
voltage regulation to inverter shutdown or inverter frying. (4)
If you are running both 120v and 240v appliances from the
transformer output, you'll need to keep the 120v load on each
side reasonably well balanced. (5) You'll need to provide fuse or
circuit breaker overcurrent protection for the transformer
outputs. (6) Probably several other things I haven't thought of.
Note: I'm not saying it can't be done, nor that it *will*
harm your genset - I simply don't know enough about the Honda's
inverter. I would, however, suggest that a call to Mayberry's or
one of the other places selling them in large quantity might let
you talk to someone who's been there, done that, and has the
t-shirt nailed to the wall. Whether as a shrine or a dartboard
would depend on the results <g>.
Alan
Just Me
news:qtalgugq9il1hf7n0...@4ax.com:
Although this is probably a dumb idea, I'll toss it out and, hopefully,
not get burned *too* badly.
Grainger sells transformers to interchange 240V to 120V.
[http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=
1611603349]
Can such a transformer be used to convert 120V to 240V?
FWIW, the link is to the 5KVA unit. They have a 7.5 KVA one also.
Perhaps someone can set me straight on this - Neon John, perhaps?
Alan Robinson
"Just Me" <s31924...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:uglfshj...@corp.supernews.com...
Yes, a transformer doesn't really care which you're using as
input and output. There are some possible gotchas using it with
the Honda genset, though - see my other post for details.
Alan
Jerry
in business but why would you want to do this?? Remember when you step up
the voltage (emf) you cut the amperage by 50% so if you try to get the whole
15 amps or so at 220V you will put a 30A load on the down leg side of the
transformer and the genset.
Neon John
wrote:
>Although this is probably a dumb idea, I'll toss it out and, hopefully,
>not get burned *too* badly.
>
>Grainger sells transformers to interchange 240V to 120V.
>[http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/productdetail.jsp?xi=xi&ItemId=
>1611603349]
>
>Can such a transformer be used to convert 120V to 240V?
>
>FWIW, the link is to the 5KVA unit. They have a 7.5 KVA one also.
>
>Perhaps someone can set me straight on this - Neon John, perhaps?
That'll work, though buying from Grainger is expensive. If your 120 and 240
volt loads are separate (no common neutral), you can use a 120/240
autotransformer for same. An autotransformer of a given KVA is about half the
size, weight and price of a normal two coil one. The only drawback is that
the results is 120 VAC to neutral and 240 VAC to neutral. not a problem as
long as the load is solely one voltage or the other.
Dry transformers like the Grainger one are very common surplus because they're
used (and discarded) so much in industry. A little looking around should find
one fairly quickly. I was in Dayton, OH a couple of weeks ago and visited
Mendelson's Surplus Sales. each floor in their old factory building is
advertised at being an acre. About 1/4 of one floor was nothing but dry
transformers of various sizes.
Another minor downside is that you'll lose 1-2% in the transformer. That may
or may not matter, depending on how close to the hairy edge of the genny
rating you end up with your load.
A final perhaps minor downside. Dry transformers tend to be noisy, as they're
normally installed in industrial environments. They're available in various
noise ratings but it's typical not to specify a quiet one for a factory floor
environment. You'd have to figure out whether the hum would bother you or
not. If you buy a used one, I highly recommend powering it up to take a
listen before hauling it home. A noisy one can be dipped and baked in motor
winding varnish (electric motor shop) but that's probably not worth the
effort.
Just Me
news:IsQO8.19318$WI.5...@twister.tampabay.rr.com:
> All you would need is a 2:1 transformer, a way to ground the system
> and your in business but why would you want to do this?? Remember when
> you step up the voltage (emf) you cut the amperage by 50% so if you
> try to get the whole 15 amps or so at 220V you will put a 30A load on
> the down leg side of the transformer and the genset.
True, but if you're attempting to supply your own 50A service [240V@50A]
with a pair of EU3000's ...
Just Me
Rob c
I think when using a transformer to drive 240 volt loads I would buy a
smaller transformer and use it only for the 240 volt load needed instead of
attempting to feed the incoming utility power through a relay to the output
of a large transformer. That way the genset would see a mix of ordinary
loads and the inductive load of the transformer.
I'm a bit weary of using an inverter to drive only a large transformer. In
my case I need to drive the relatively small circulating pump on my furnace
when the AC fails, as well as some lights, tv, etc. I won't be running the
fridge as we have one in the garage and it is cold enough there I don't have
to worry about spoiling food during the winter. I would just install a
manual transfer switch to the circulating pump feed and switch over when the
AC fails.
-Rob
"Just Me" <s31924...@netscape.net> wrote in message
news:ugnmatm...@corp.supernews.com...
Marc
1 - Well pumps - Most likely 240 volts - some 'external' well pumps are on 120v
- but if it is convertable to 240v - I strongly reccomend it as most electric
motors are far happier running at the higher voltage ( less voltage drop though
the wires due to less amperage used at the higher volts )
2 - Heating Equipment... almost all residential units ( with the exception of
heat pumps, or electric heat ) are 120 volts. Most furnace blowers are 120v,
along with circulating pumps on a hot water system. Some air handlers in
'hydro-air' systems may have a 240v blower. If in doubt - ask your serviceman.
3. You always ending up needing more power then you think cause there is
always something you need to power that you forgot all about such as sump
pumps, also keep in mind that a few houses may also have a sewer pump for the
house sewage ( some added on bathrooms in a basement may have a sewer pump too)
4. GASOLINE HAS NO BUSINESS BEING STORED IN THE BASEMENT ! It is a severe
fire/explosion hazzard.
5. Makeshift exhaust systems dont cut it either. Gasoline engines can VERY
QUICKLY produce high & deadly levels of carbon monoxide. I proved this my self
last time we have a power failure bu running a generator in a garage (4kw) with
a normal sized door open - & the exhaust pointing twards the door - within 10
minutes - the co level in the 30x24x16 ( at the peak) garage was well beyond
the unsafe exposure level. This was tested using a $1200 professional CO
tester.
Running a generator in a attached garage can also cause high CO levels to be
introduced in the house.
Your better off putting the house generator in a small un-attached shed on the
property.
The honda eu's seem to be the ideal trailer generators. Hopefully this line
will be extended to larger outputs.
Electric start would be a very good idea on a house backup generator (
especially in cold climates). Trying to pull start a larger engine with 20
degree oil in it is not fun - even if it is a honda.
Remember - CO posioning exhibits almost identical symptoms of the flu, and is
often misdiagnosed as the flu by doctors. A good indication of CO problems is
if you feel like crap at one location - but feel fine when your in a differnt
location for a few hours- and when you return to the original location - you
start to feel like crap again.
Marc - residential & commercial heating tech, Certified Combustion & CO
Analyst.