5th Wheel Automatic vs. Manual Transmissions
Dennis Mobley
The wife and I have been contemplating trading our Motorhome for a 5th wheel
TT. We have owned two conventional Travel Trailers and one Motorhome. As
part of our investigation we have been looking at 1 ton pickup trucks. My
question evolved from a Dodge dealer's indication that a 6 speed manual
transmission would be a better option then an Automatic Transmission. A Ford
dealer has made a similar statement. Note we are looking at Diesel powered
trucks. In my younger days I drove a number of large trucks with manual
transmissions with out issue. It has been my opinion has been that an
Automatic was the way to go for a RV transmission but I am interested in
other folk's opinions.
Thanks in advance,
--
Dennis H Mobley
Loxahatchee, Florida
dhmo...@worldnet.att.net
LOCOMOTIVE2506
transmission than they do with their automatic. If you have been reading this
news group very long you will have seen numerous threads discussing failures of
automatic transmission and a few problems with manuals. It seems that the
automatics are very apt to fail under circumstances such as pulling long hills
with a heavy trailer. Invariably the people are saying that you need to have a
transmission oil temp gage, not push hard in overdrive, keep the oil changed,
and on and on and on. The manual transmissions on the other hand don't have
those problems but do have a clutch to contend with. I've got 60,000 on a 97
Dodge with a 5 speed manual and can't tell the differance on the clutch now as
compared to when it was new. Also the manual transmission gives great braking
ability compared to the automatic. The automatics can overheat easier when
being used for downhill braking then when climbing under heavy loads. Seems odd
but true. The only place that I miss the automatic transmission is when backing
slowly into an uphill camping spot. The torque converter made that easy with
the automatic but with the manual you have to slip the clutch somewhat to do
the same thing. The manual transmission also has a granny gear which is real
nice for real slow moving or super steep hills. I'm biased towards the manual
transmission after burning up three automatics. Yes, I was way overloaded with
the big 5th wheel and have no doubt that was a major contributor to causing the
burn out problem. But, I pull the same trailer with a manual transmission and
have had no problems since. It's real nice not to be constantly watching a
transmission temp gage!
al...@nospam.net
I have a 1 ton with a smaller fiver. If I had to do it over again, I
would get an automatic, plus I wouldn't get a fiver. I'd get a TT with
a good hitch. After having TT's, the fiver is a pain to hitch, not to
mention hitting my head underneath the dang thing, plus getting grease
all over me, plus not having the pu to use as a pu.
Tom
Consciousness: That annoying time between naps.
Ed J
The automatics are usually the weak link and cause very
expensive repairs. But, Chevy is coming out with a new
diesel with a 6-spd Allison automatic. Should be a nice
combo.
--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ed J e...@attglobal.net
On my retirement adventure from the rolling hills of
the Southern Tier in New York State..... Traveling in my
1999 Dodge 2500 6-spd diesel, 1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel
Gerald Nieman
problems.
Dennis Mobley <dhmo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
news:KiM55.1819$pu6.1...@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
> Hello all,
> The wife and I have been contemplating trading our Motorhome for a 5th
wheel
> TT. We have owned two conventional Travel Trailers and one Motorhome. As
> part of our investigation we have been looking at 1 ton pickup trucks. My
> question evolved from a Dodge dealer's indication that a 6 speed manual
> transmission would be a better option then an Automatic Transmission. A
Ford
> dealer has made a similar statement. Note we are looking at Diesel powered
> trucks. In my younger days I drove a number of large trucks with manual
> transmissions with out issue. It has been my opinion has been that an
> Automatic was the way to go for a RV transmission but I am interested in
> other folk's opinions.
>
> Thanks in advance,
JQP
the 5 speed manual and 3.55 gears.
(I lease the trucks, so I'll get a bigger engine next time.)
I would MUCH rather drive that with a manual . YOU set the shiftpoints
(important in an underpowered situation) both up and down. Haven't had any
problems smoking the clutch in reverse. Besides, clutches are a couple
hundred bucks. A new auto is a couple thousand. I've been stopped on a few
hills that made me queasy about getting started, but I got it going.
Probably took a few thousandths of an inch off of the clutch though.
I never have to think about trans temp, and there is no trans cooler to
preheat air going to the radiator.
Just my $0.02 worth.
JQP
Donald J. Dickson
> I have a 1 ton with a smaller fiver. If I had to do it over again, I
> would get an automatic, plus I wouldn't get a fiver. I'd get a TT with
> a good hitch. After having TT's, the fiver is a pain to hitch,
What kind of a hitch do you have? Hitching up my 5th wheel is not much
more effort than hooking up a utility trailer. Certainly a lot easier than
aiming the ball under a regular hitch which you can't see from the
driver's seat..
not to
> mention hitting my head underneath the dang thing,
Wear a biker's helmet ;-))
plus getting grease
> all over me,
Use one of those teflon spacers and there's NO grease.
plus not having the pu to use as a pu.
If you need your truck for other purposes taking a hitch on and off can be
a bit of a job but if you only do it a few times a year it not a big deal.
--
Don Dickson
Remove first "x" from xcx666 to reply by email.
Alan Sanderson
> transmission would be a better option then an Automatic Transmission. A
Ford
> dealer has made a similar statement. Note we are looking at Diesel powered
> trucks. In my younger days I drove a number of large trucks with manual
> transmissions with out issue.
The list of folks with LARGE and often REPEATED, AUTO/TRANS repair bills
for their "heavy" 5'er towing trucks is LONG and Distinguished !!
From what I've read (mainly on the Compuserve RV Forum), If you're
considering a 5'er over 30' or 10,000 lbs go with the 6 speed. The manuals
will hold up while the autos DIE unless you're sticking to travelling in
NEB, KS, and IA only. (dead flat)
The salesmen you talked to were right (for a change)
Alan
al...@nospam.net
J. Dickson) wrote:
>In article <dLxXOd4pNbHNbE...@4ax.com>, al...@nospam.net wrote:
>
>> I have a 1 ton with a smaller fiver. If I had to do it over again, I
>> would get an automatic, plus I wouldn't get a fiver. I'd get a TT with
>> a good hitch. After having TT's, the fiver is a pain to hitch,
>
>What kind of a hitch do you have? Hitching up my 5th wheel is not much
>more effort than hooking up a utility trailer. Certainly a lot easier than
>aiming the ball under a regular hitch which you can't see from the
>driver's seat..
Not as far as I am concerned. At least with the TT I could hook up
half sideways and roll the darn thing an inch or so sideways if need
be. With the fiver I have to be almost straight on to get the latch to
close. Not only that, I can't be even be an inch off. Where we go,
there are so many trees in the way it is next to impossible to back
into it straight on.
>
>not to
>> mention hitting my head underneath the dang thing,
>
>Wear a biker's helmet ;-))
Good idea!
> plus getting grease
>> all over me,
>
>Use one of those teflon spacers and there's NO grease.
That I'll look into. I hate all that darn grease.
>
> plus not having the pu to use as a pu.
>
>If you need your truck for other purposes taking a hitch on and off can be
>a bit of a job but if you only do it a few times a year it not a big deal.
Unfortunately I have to take it off every week as we haul bikes up to
the CG, then go to the storage a short ways off, mount the hitch, and
haul the fiver over to the CG. Going home is the reverse. If I could
only get the wife to drive the other pu with the bikes....
Thanks for the advice, though.
Donald J. Dickson
At least with the TT I could hook up
> half sideways and roll the darn thing an inch or so sideways if need
> be. With the fiver I have to be almost straight on to get the latch to
> close. Not only that, I can't be even be an inch off. Where we go,
> there are so many trees in the way it is next to impossible to back
> into it straight on.
I have hooked up to mine at all kinds of angles without any trouble but
then I have a double articulated hitch so the angle of the truck is not a
big deal. When I sit in the driver's seat I can see exactly where the pin
is relative to the hitch and being off centre a little bit doen't seem to
matter. The flexibility of the truck suspension and a bit of give on the
trailer's part means I don't have to hit it dead centre although it's not
hard to do so.
Donald J. Dickson
> The list of folks with LARGE and often REPEATED, AUTO/TRANS repair bills
> for their "heavy" 5'er towing trucks is LONG and Distinguished !!
>
> From what I've read (mainly on the Compuserve RV Forum), If you're
> considering a 5'er over 30' or 10,000 lbs go with the 6 speed. The manuals
> will hold up while the autos DIE unless you're sticking to travelling in
> NEB, KS, and IA only. (dead flat)
> The salesmen you talked to were right (for a change)
However there are a lot of folks who haven't driven a truck with a manual
transmission in many years. I agree that a person who is familiar with a
manual transmission is going to be better off but the majority of people
who haul 5th wheels would be a menace on the road if you gave then a truck
with a manual transmission. If you miss a shift on a down grade you are in
big trouble. If you spend a lot of time in city traffic your left leg will
be numb. I grew up with manual transmissions and have driven a few medium
trucks with manuals but I like to enjoy my travels with a trailer and
thinking about shifting is not part of a pleasant trip for me anymore. The
real solution, as someone has pointed out previously, if for more
manufacturers to offer heavy duty automatics as an option like the new
GM/Allison in light to medium trucks.
Will R
angle possable, even at a complete 45 deg! And I feel its easer to
hook up then a standard ball hitch. using the center rear view mirror,
I line up the line in the sliding glass window, with the "hole" in the
hitch, and the pin on the trailer. never takes more then 2 backup's
to get on center perfect! But I can see the problem with installing
the hitch just to move the RV from a storage spot to the campsite.
Those hitches are heavy to lift in and out of the truck (even though
they come out in 2 pieces)
I saw one place that had a 5th wheel hitch for there tractor, they
would move both kinds of trailers on and off the sites for the owners.
How about getting a small trailer for the bikes, that way you could
leave the hitch in for when you were going to the campsite.
Will R
On Mon, 26 Jun 2000 23:04:43 -0700, al...@nospam.net wrote:
>>What kind of a hitch do you have? Hitching up my 5th wheel is not much
>>more effort than hooking up a utility trailer. Certainly a lot easier than
>>aiming the ball under a regular hitch which you can't see from the
>>driver's seat..
>Not as far as I am concerned. At least with the TT I could hook up
Will R
same thing Alan says below)
I bought the 5 speed and have never been unhappy with it.
I believe the new 6 speed is even better then the 5 speed.
I have heard reports of the NV5400 5 speed trans having the 5th gear
nut come loose and loosing 5th gear. On a 2wd, its a cheep fix.
If you are towing with a 4X4, you can always use 4wd low while backing
up.
Will R
On Mon, 26 Jun 2000 16:50:14 -0700, "Alan Sanderson"
<getty...@dixie.com> wrote:
>>My question evolved from a Dodge dealer's indication that a 6 speed manual
>> transmission would be a better option then an Automatic Transmission. A
>Ford
>> dealer has made a similar statement. Note we are looking at Diesel powered
>> trucks. In my younger days I drove a number of large trucks with manual
>> transmissions with out issue.
>
>The list of folks with LARGE and often REPEATED, AUTO/TRANS repair bills
>for their "heavy" 5'er towing trucks is LONG and Distinguished !!
>
>From what I've read (mainly on the Compuserve RV Forum), If you're
>considering a 5'er over 30' or 10,000 lbs go with the 6 speed. The manuals
>will hold up while the autos DIE unless you're sticking to travelling in
>NEB, KS, and IA only. (dead flat)
>The salesmen you talked to were right (for a change)
>
>Alan
>
JQP
truck just scoots/leans itself over inline with the trailer.
Does your hitch not have any lead-in?
JQP
<al...@nospam.net> wrote in message
news:70FYOR1rhvcFte...@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 26 Jun 2000 23:05:13 GMT, xcx...@freenet.carleton.ca (Donald
> J. Dickson) wrote:
>
> >In article <dLxXOd4pNbHNbE...@4ax.com>, al...@nospam.net
wrote:
> >
> >> I have a 1 ton with a smaller fiver. If I had to do it over again, I
> >> would get an automatic, plus I wouldn't get a fiver. I'd get a TT with
> >> a good hitch. After having TT's, the fiver is a pain to hitch,
> >
> >What kind of a hitch do you have? Hitching up my 5th wheel is not much
> >more effort than hooking up a utility trailer. Certainly a lot easier
than
> >aiming the ball under a regular hitch which you can't see from the
> >driver's seat..
> Not as far as I am concerned. At least with the TT I could hook up
> half sideways and roll the darn thing an inch or so sideways if need
> be. With the fiver I have to be almost straight on to get the latch to
> close. Not only that, I can't be even be an inch off. Where we go,
> there are so many trees in the way it is next to impossible to back
> into it straight on.
> >
R Lindberg / E Winnie
> Not as far as I am concerned. At least with the TT I could hook up
> half sideways and roll the darn thing an inch or so sideways if need
> be. With the fiver I have to be almost straight on to get the latch to
> close. Not only that, I can't be even be an inch off. Where we go,
> there are so many trees in the way it is next to impossible to back
> into it straight on.
I will ad my voice here that hitch my fiver is easy, last summer I
hitched at a full 90 degrees to pull it out of a campspot were I had got
'camped' in
> Unfortunately I have to take it off every week as we haul bikes up to
> the CG, then go to the storage a short ways off, mount the hitch, and
> haul the fiver over to the CG. Going home is the reverse. If I could
> only get the wife to drive the other pu with the bikes....
Em, you might look into bike carriers for the trailer. I've seen one
that mounted the bikes above the 5er hitch. They swung up and over the
extended pin and held the bikes right in front of the trailer. When they
needed them down, they just turned a crank and lowered them to the ground.
I've also put a rack on the back of my old fiver that held the bikes.
Unfortunately my first pass ended up breaking the square tube that held
the hose. So I rebuilt it with a real bumper, a separate hose holder, and
the bike rack, all welded/bolted into the frame
-----
Ralph Lindberg N7BSN <n7...@amsat.org> ICQ#5988954
RV and Camping FAQ <http://kendaco.telebyte.net/rlindber/rv/>
Oh Bother said the Borg, we've assimilated Po
Chris Hill
<getty...@dixie.com> wrote:
>
>From what I've read (mainly on the Compuserve RV Forum), If you're
>considering a 5'er over 30' or 10,000 lbs go with the 6 speed. The manuals
>will hold up while the autos DIE unless you're sticking to travelling in
>NEB, KS, and IA only. (dead flat)
>The salesmen you talked to were right (for a change)
>
>Alan
From what I've read on the ford-diesel website, it looks like a
toss-up. The six-speed works real well until it gets a lot of miles
on it, then they have trouble keeping clutches in them along with
other problems. Remember, a clutch replacement on one of these beasts
isn't exactly free, I'd guess that two clutch replacements would cost
more than one auto rebuild. If I were towing something big enough to
need it, I'd get a bigger cooler, along with a gauge.
---
Want to freeze in the dark? Vote Gore for president.
Columbia, Missouri or thereabouts
LOCOMOTIVE2506
view mirror and can see the fiver pin and the hitch at the same time. Just keep
backing up while keeping them lined up. I'm never off center by more than an
inch and get it in the pocket every time the first time. I'll bet that can't be
done with a TT unless there is some fancy mirror setup to see the hitch with.
LOCOMOTIVE2506
solve the problem. Even with water sprayed on the cooler you can still generate
enough heat in the transmission and torque converter that it can't be removed
fast enough and the transmission still overheats. The limiting factor is the
5/16 tubing that runs from the transmission to the cooler. It doesn' have
enough capacity to move enough oil quick enough. As a result the transmission
temperature still crawls right up to 250 or where ever you let it get to. On
Allisons they took care of this and use 1/2 in hose between the transmission
and the cooler. That does solve the problem.
How do I know? Been there done that in spades! And, learned an expensive lesson
about heat transfer and liquid flow.
Ed Greenberg
Dennis Mobley <dhmo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>Hello all,
>The wife and I have been contemplating trading our Motorhome for a 5th wheel
>TT. We have owned two conventional Travel Trailers and one Motorhome. As
>question evolved from a Dodge dealer's indication that a 6 speed manual
>transmission would be a better option then an Automatic Transmission. A Ford
>dealer has made a similar statement. Note we are looking at Diesel powered
>trucks. In my younger days I drove a number of large trucks with manual
>Automatic was the way to go for a RV transmission but I am interested in
>other folk's opinions.
>
>Thanks in advance,
>--
>Dennis H Mobley
>Loxahatchee, Florida
>dhmo...@worldnet.att.net
>
>
Biggest reason for a manual in a Dodge TurboDiesel is that you can put an
exhaust brake on it. The auto is not rated for that.
</edg>
Clifford J Newman
still hitched to the trailer. Then he cranked the front end of the trailer up
on the jacks and drove the truck out from underneath leaving the hitch hanging
from the trailer. Is this reasonable or even feasible? I guess when you hook up
again you just back the truck under the hitch, drop it into the bed and
reattach.
Cliff
>
> >If you need your truck for other purposes taking a hitch on and off can be
> >a bit of a job but if you only do it a few times a year it not a big deal.
> Unfortunately I have to take it off every week as we haul bikes up to
> the CG, then go to the storage a short ways off, mount the hitch, and
> haul the fiver over to the CG. Going home is the reverse. If I could
> only get the wife to drive the other pu with the bikes....
LOCOMOTIVE2506
hitch beams that are attached to the floor of the pickup. I guess it could be
done but would probably think it easier to do it after the trailer was unhooked
and there was plenty of room to work on the hitch. In addition, the head of the
hitch comes off by pulling just two pins and then is easy to lift out. It's no
big task to take the hitch out or put it back in. Only a couple of minutes at
the most.
al...@nospam.net
wrote:
>I have the Reese Classic 20K, and have hooked / unhooked at every
>angle possable, even at a complete 45 deg! And I feel its easer to
>hook up then a standard ball hitch. using the center rear view mirror,
>I line up the line in the sliding glass window, with the "hole" in the
>hitch, and the pin on the trailer. never takes more then 2 backup's
>to get on center perfect! But I can see the problem with installing
>the hitch just to move the RV from a storage spot to the campsite.
>Those hitches are heavy to lift in and out of the truck (even though
>they come out in 2 pieces)
>
>I saw one place that had a 5th wheel hitch for there tractor, they
>would move both kinds of trailers on and off the sites for the owners.
>
>How about getting a small trailer for the bikes, that way you could
>leave the hitch in for when you were going to the campsite.
>
>
>
>Will R
>
>
I have one. Unfortunately I have to carry four bikes (motorcycles),
two in the pu, two on the trailer. Seems everybody wants to ride, but
nobody wants to invest in a trailer hitch. Dont'cha just love adult
children?
Tom
al...@nospam.net
J. Dickson) wrote:
>In article <70FYOR1rhvcFte...@4ax.com>, al...@nospam.net wrote:
>
> At least with the TT I could hook up
>> half sideways and roll the darn thing an inch or so sideways if need
>> be. With the fiver I have to be almost straight on to get the latch to
>> close. Not only that, I can't be even be an inch off. Where we go,
>> there are so many trees in the way it is next to impossible to back
>> into it straight on.
>
>I have hooked up to mine at all kinds of angles without any trouble but
>then I have a double articulated hitch so the angle of the truck is not a
>big deal. When I sit in the driver's seat I can see exactly where the pin
>is relative to the hitch and being off centre a little bit doen't seem to
>matter. The flexibility of the truck suspension and a bit of give on the
>trailer's part means I don't have to hit it dead centre although it's not
>hard to do so.
It never occurred to me that it would be ok to let the fiver move
sideways a little. Is that tough on the crank-up legs, or should they
be able to stand that kind of movement?
Tom
al...@nospam.net
al...@nospam.net (al...@omnicast.net)
>> Unfortunately I have to take it off every week as we haul bikes up to
>> the CG, then go to the storage a short ways off, mount the hitch, and
>> haul the fiver over to the CG. Going home is the reverse. If I could
>> only get the wife to drive the other pu with the bikes....
<rlin...@kendaco.telebyte.com> wrote:
> Em, you might look into bike carriers for the trailer. I've seen one
>that mounted the bikes above the 5er hitch. They swung up and over the
>extended pin and held the bikes right in front of the trailer. When they
>needed them down, they just turned a crank and lowered them to the ground.
>I've also put a rack on the back of my old fiver that held the bikes.
>Unfortunately my first pass ended up breaking the square tube that held
>the hose. So I rebuilt it with a real bumper, a separate hose holder, and
>the bike rack, all welded/bolted into the frame
Tom
al...@nospam.net
wrote:
>Can't even be an inch off? I've been a couple inches off before and the
>truck just scoots/leans itself over inline with the trailer.
>
>Does your hitch not have any lead-in?
>
>JQP
Yeah, it does. I just didn't want to damage the fiver by making it
move sideways on the crank-up legs. If it won't damage it (and
apparently from the posts I've read here, it won't), then I'll try it
this weekend. Either live and learn, or read this NG and learn.
Thanks,
Alan Sanderson
> >I have the Reese Classic 20K, and have hooked / unhooked at every
> >angle possable, even at a complete 45 deg!
The "transmission" question is getting no replies..
Alan Sanderson
> manual transmission is going to be better off
There's the answer to the "Q"
Ralph Lindberg & Ellen Winnie
wrote:
> If you are talking about motorcycle racks, I'd sure love more info!
> Tom
Unfortunately I have no idea were the over hitch rack came from. The
bumper rack I built myself.
--
Ralph Lindberg personal email n7...@amsat.org
RV and Camping FAQ http://kendaco.telebyte.com/rlindber/rv
If Windows is the answer I would really like to know what the question is
al...@nospam.net
I can back under it at 45 deg, it just won't clang shut. Apparently
the gizmo that makes it shut requires pressure against the front to
make it work, and at 45 deg, not enough pressure is exerted before
the fiver starts to go sideways. Ah the joys of figuring out new
stuff.
Tom
al...@nospam.net
wrote:
That sounds exactly like mine. Is there anything I need to watch out
for when pulling the head off, like stuff coming off or springs
waiting to take my hands off?
Thanks,
Tom
al...@nospam.net
<cne...@ihorizons.net> wrote:
>A friend of mine told of seeing a 5th wheel owner who undid his hitch while
>still hitched to the trailer. Then he cranked the front end of the trailer up
>on the jacks and drove the truck out from underneath leaving the hitch hanging
>from the trailer. Is this reasonable or even feasible? I guess when you hook up
>again you just back the truck under the hitch, drop it into the bed and
>reattach.
>
>Cliff
That I'm going to investigate. Thanks for the thought. Since my
surgery I have to have someone help me remove the hitch from the truck
evry week. I'll try it and see if it works.
Tom
Donald J. Dickson
I'm talking aboutbeing less than an inch off centre when making a hookup.
I like to back up just to the point where the pin would start to enter the
hitch plate and lower the trailer so it's perhaps 1/2" below the level of
the hitch. By doing that the weight of the trailer is partly taken by the
truck as it hooks up and as I mentioned previously the suspension of the
truck will give a little as well as there being a little bit of shift by
the trailer. I certainly wouldn't want to try to shift the whole thing by
2 or 3 inches. I really don't see that staying +/- 1 inch of a perfectly
centred alignment is very difficult with a double articulated hitch. It
might be much more difficult with a hitch that has no side to side rocking
action.
LOCOMOTIVE2506
two pins that hold the head to the frame and lift it out of the V channels that
the pins go through. When you lift it out make sure you have grabbed it so that
it is roughly balanced in you hands. The head is some what awkward and has an
off-center balance.
To remove the frame from the truck bed, pull the four pins and lift the frame
out. The frame is a pretty close fitting items and it may take a little prying
to pull it out of the floor channels.
When it comes time to put the frame back in, you may have a little trouble
lining up the legs so they fit back into the square slots. Get two or three in
and then kick the others and they will pop in. It isn't as hard as it sounds
once you have done it a couple of times.
Don't try to take the hitch out with the head still attached. It is real
awkward.
When you put the frame and head back in, make sure that you have the "keeper
pins" in place. If you forget to put them in, things could get real ugly.
Also, when you back the truck up to connect to the trailer, use the self
closing locking pin feature on the hitch. The lever bar should slide shut as
soon as the trailer pin pushes on the truck hitch. If you don't do this, there
is a risk that you may forget to manually release the lock and let it slide in
place. If that happens and you try to pull out of the camping site then the
trailer will fall onto the side rails of the pickup bed. I haven't done it but
have seen a number of trucks that did. Makes a real mess of the bed rails.
kamp...@my-deja.com
That is my opinion, but first I would say to someone, "Choose what YOU
want and what meets YOUR needs!"
I prefer a manual and a manual is what I got. Yes, a clutch and PP are
just a couple of hundred bucks (at the most) and a Saturday afternoon
VS a few thousand and a shop to do the repair. No need to worry about
heat as there virtually is none. And I enjoy driving a manual
transmission. BUT, (and this one's a BIG BUTT) you do need to use
caution when backing as you can cook/glaze the clutch. For me I just
throw it into 4L and creep into the site and the wear being done is
minimal or just treat the clutch with respect. Although with an
automatic you still need to worry as a forward/reverse as jogging
between the two produces alot of heat.
BTW, Do you know if your F150 has the Mazda transmission?
Kurt
97 Ford Explorer Sport (5 speed)
00 Starcraft Travelstar
In article <8j8lqi$6d7$1...@galaxy.us.dell.com>,
"JQP" <NOpaul...@usa.net> wrote:
> I drive a relatively underpowered F-150 (V-6) to pull my 5500# TT. I
have
> the 5 speed manual and 3.55 gears.
>
> (I lease the trucks, so I'll get a bigger engine next time.)
>
> I would MUCH rather drive that with a manual . YOU set the
shiftpoints
> (important in an underpowered situation) both up and down. Haven't
had any
> problems smoking the clutch in reverse. Besides, clutches are a
couple
> hundred bucks. A new auto is a couple thousand. I've been stopped
on a few
> hills that made me queasy about getting started, but I got it going.
> Probably took a few thousandths of an inch off of the clutch though.
>
> I never have to think about trans temp, and there is no trans cooler
to
> preheat air going to the radiator.
>
> Just my $0.02 worth.
>
> JQP
>
> "Dennis Mobley" <dhmo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote in message
> news:KiM55.1819$pu6.1...@bgtnsc06-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
JQP
Yes, mine has the Mazda, as do all of them I believe.
JQP
<kamp...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8jden9$lnm$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
R.J.(Bob) Evans
>It never occurred to me that it would be ok to let the fiver move
>sideways a little. Is that tough on the crank-up legs, or should they
>be able to stand that kind of movement?
Hit it hard - the legs will take it just fine. If you have lined the
height up properly some of the weight will be off the legs anyway
because it will have transferred to the truck. If I am in a really
awkward spot I have even been known to block one wheel so that I know
it won't move when I hit the pin.
R.J.(Bob) Evans
(return address needs alteration to work)
kamp...@my-deja.com
beefier tranny, their manual towing capacities are pitiful!
Kurt
97 Explorer Sport
00 Starcraft Travelstar
In article <8jdr53$4pr$1...@galaxy.us.dell.com>,
JQP
I've towed 2x the rated capacity of the truck with no problems whatsoever.
Up hills, down hills, whatever.
General consensus is that Ford derated these setups because the art of
driving a manual has for the most part been lost by the American people.
Ford would much rather derate the manual trucks and "force" haulers into a
more expensive setup than have to replace clutch after clutch for somebody
who likes to slip their clutch on an incline or whatever.
Personally, I won't ever own one of Fords automatics again. I had a 94
Supercab 5.0 Auto that couldnt ever figure out the right gear to be in, and
would sometimes downshift while accellerating from a rolling stop
unexpectedly. It spun me out several times by shifting from 2nd into 1st
unexpectedly.
I can start a 6000# load full throttle in 1st and never slip that clutch.
This is my third truck with the Mazda 5 speed and I havent had a bit of
trouble with any of them. They are a little bit noisy and the syncro's
don't always work perfectly, but I've been very happy with them.
It's interesting to see that the v-6 with the manual has a *higher* tow
rating than the v-8 with the manual. Marketing genius!
JQP
<kamp...@my-deja.com> wrote in message news:8jefn1$evh$1...@nnrp1.deja.com...
kamp...@my-deja.com
TT weighs in around 3000#, add in wife, kid, hitch, and all the
other "stuff" and I'm hovering around 4000#(if not more). I have had no
problems, even through the mountains of Vermont and New York State(
starting, sustaining, or stopping). We went to Vermont on Memorial day
weekend and averaged 15mpg. I can always do at least the speed limit on
moderate climbs and severe climbs, I usually maintain a 35 to 45 mph
pace, just common sense, I am in no hurry to get to the top, it will be
there anyway.
I have heard the same thing in regard to Fords opinion but never could
get a concrete answer from them. (as expected)
Seems though the automatic is preferance these days but I will always
stick with the manual. (Moreover I feel 100% safer having a manual
going down a steep grade than that of it's automatic counterpart, IMO
stopping is more important than going)
Kurt
In article <8jfevk$31n$1...@galaxy.us.dell.com>,
Chris Hill
>JQP,
>That is my opinion, but first I would say to someone, "Choose what YOU
>want and what meets YOUR needs!"
>I prefer a manual and a manual is what I got. Yes, a clutch and PP are
>just a couple of hundred bucks (at the most) and a Saturday afternoon
>VS a few thousand and a shop to do the repair.
Hmmm, I don't think I ever want to get that deep into a driveline
especially a heavy-duty one on a 4wd vehicle. As far as a couple
hundred bucks for the parts, I haven't priced them but from what I've
heard, you ain't going to get it that cheap, and on the ford anyway,
I've seen more than one complaint of people trading their trucks after
the dealer couldn't keep a clutch working in the vehicle after the
original was replaced. I'm not even going to go into the hard clutch
on the six speed. I have to wonder if the people having driveline
problems have ever gotten their vehicles weighed, or if they are just
guessing.
Ed J
cuts out in front of you and you can't stop in time, you better
be prepared to pay for some very expensive lawyers. The lawyers
for the person (or estate) you hit will find out about your
overload condition and you will then be at fault.
I would suggest that if you continue to do this, increase your
insurance coverage.
kamp...@my-deja.com wrote:
>
> I couldn't agree with you more. My Explorer is rated to tow 1850#, Our
> TT weighs in around 3000#, add in wife, kid, hitch, and all the
> other "stuff" and I'm hovering around 4000#(if not more). I have had no
> problems, even through the mountains of Vermont and New York State(
> starting, sustaining, or stopping). We went to Vermont on Memorial day
> weekend and averaged 15mpg. I can always do at least the speed limit on
> moderate climbs and severe climbs, I usually maintain a 35 to 45 mph
> pace, just common sense, I am in no hurry to get to the top, it will be
> there anyway.
> I have heard the same thing in regard to Fords opinion but never could
> get a concrete answer from them. (as expected)
> Seems though the automatic is preferance these days but I will always
> stick with the manual. (Moreover I feel 100% safer having a manual
> going down a steep grade than that of it's automatic counterpart, IMO
> stopping is more important than going)
--
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ed J e...@attglobal.net
On my retirement adventure from the rolling hills of
the Southern Tier in New York State..... Traveling in my
1999 Dodge 2500 6-spd diesel, 1999 Sunnybrook 27RKFS 5th-wheel
Hugh
rating of the standard shift being less than the rating for the
automatic. I do believe the 4,000 lbs is within the Explorers tow
rating.
Hugh
R.J.(Bob) Evans
1) Hook up the umbilical cord before you try to back under the pin.
2) Squeeze the override on the brake controller while you are backing
under the pin.
3) If that still isn't enough, put a block behind the wheel on the
"far" side of the trailer.
many...@aol.com
"Dennis Mobley" <dhmo...@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
We have a 28.5' Carrilite 5th wheel that weighs 9900#,loaded ready
to go but with holding tanks empty and only 25 Gal in the freshwater
tank.
We towed this for a couple of years with a Ford F350 4X4 with a
460, a 5 spd manual,and 4.10's. Not enough stuff in the Rockies. Now we
have a 99 F350 diesel,6 speed,and 3.73's. 50% more towing power and 50%
better towing mileage. Solo,this truck will give you 18-20
MPG,depending on how hard you run it.
With the diesel,you should get an exhaust brake of some kind if you
plan on traveling thru the Rockies. A manual transmission gives you
much better results with the exhaust brake.
I don't mind shifting as it gives me better control.Once I get out
of town,it's rarely out of 6th gear.When I am on the interstates,it's
never out of 6th gear.
LOCOMOTIVE2506
manual transmission. Most of the folks that have had transmission problems are
pulling loads that are 12,000 lbs and up. Of course it happens to trucks
pulling lighter loads but there is a definite connection between trailer weight
and automatic transmission life. If you want to have the least worries and
troubles stick with the manual. If you want the automatic, all you need to do
is add another heavy duty transmission oil cooler, add a transmission oil
temperature gage, drive in mountain areas by watching the temperature gage and
taking your foot off the gas when the temperature gets too high, make sure that
you don't drive in overdrive unless it is absolutely flat terrain or going down
hill, etc, etc. With the manual, just put it in gear and drive. Yes, I've had
the problems and am the first to admit that it was my fault because of the size
of the trailer that I tow. But, after buying the manual 5 speed Dodge, that was
the end of my transmission problems. In retrospect I should have bought a
smaller trailer but as they say, hindsight is 20-20 vision. Good luck.
kamp...@my-deja.com
everything else the same I would be well below the tow rating. The only
reason why my rating is so low is the manual transmission. Brake size,
axle ratio and size(ring and pinion), suspension, transfer case, front
axle, cooling, ect.. are all the same (I did even check it) as it's
automatic counterpart.
I used the automatic tow rating as a guide to determine the maximum the
vehicle could tow.
I can and would stop in the same time as the automatic, or even a
fraction less as the manual transmission weighs less than the automatic.
Plus the fact that I have a Pullrite, I am safer in a emergency than
that of a conventional setup as I have the ability to swerve a greater
degree without loosing control, and have had to do so a few times with
people who seem top think they need to pull out in front of vehicle
with tow.
Kurt
97 Explorer Sport
00 Starcraft Travelstar
In article <395BDC72...@attglobal.net>,
kamp...@my-deja.com
resurfacing a fly wheel costs just around $225, granted not everyone is
equipped and have the knowledge of replacing a clutch, but I have done
many in a Saturday afternoon and as easy as I think it is I wouldn't
have a dealer even think about doing the job. I certainly understand
the incompatance of most dealers ability to perform even the
basics....I could go on forever about dealers.....
Kurt
97 Ford Explorer
00 Starcraft Travelstar
In article <i5imls47s12185ibl...@4ax.com>,