I used to go to Rocky Point (Puerto Penasco) fishing with a buddy. He
had an old Johnson outboard ~7.5HP IIRC. We were out about 9 miles
when the main motor blew. So we ran the Johnson. That ran out of
oiled gas very shortly and we spent the next 4 hours running it on
regular gas. He continued using it for another 10 years or longer.
>
> My old friend, Bob LaFrance, a retired policeman who also owned a small
> engine repair shop during his police career and long afterward, says:
> The difference is in the oil. More refined (not in the refinery but in the
> development) oils provide the same amount of lubrication in smaller amounts
> than the older formulations did.
> There is greater "lubricity" (lower friction coefficient) in the newer oils.
> Therefore a 32:1 oil will provide the same engine protection as a 16:1 oil
> used to.
> As an aside, in researching synthetic oils I learned that auto engine
> manufacturers are depending somewhat on oil engineers to develop even better
> formulations to lower friction in order to provide better mileage figures.
> Extrapolation would suggest that the 40:1 oil would work fine at a 3.2 oz
> per gallon ratio. But why argue with the manufacturer?
> The difference doesn't seem to be great enough to change from a 32:1 ratio.
> 0.8 of an oz ain't going to kill the engine.
>
> Max-
I agree with your friends assessment. The differerence is in the
additives and such (which I said in an earlier post).
I think all these different oils came about when the EPA was trying to
reduce the amount of emissions. And since then, the companies are
putting 4 strokes on everything now. Due to the increased weight of a
4 stroke, you burn more gas but less oil. :-)
Hank
Technology has changed
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I see it as more then 0.8. The difference that I calculate between 16:1 and
32:1 is 4 oz., which compared to premium chain saws that operate with a 50:1
ratio or 2.6 oz is a lot. I still attribute the difference to the age of the
saw and it's loose tolerances. I could be wrong, but when I buy 2 stroke
oil, I have never seen it marketed by ratio, only by volume. I buy a gallon
at a time as I have 11 small engine outdoors equipment, which 5 are 2 cycle.
Since I have bought by the gallon, I have seen many different brands, major
brands made by the large oil producers to private brands that are just
rebadged majors. They all have the same characteristics in that they meet or
exceed the following specifications: TC-W3TM, NMMA, [API] TC, ISO-L-EGO,
JASO FC.
None of them were marketed by ratio. In fact they all have a ratio chart on
them allowing you to mix the oil to any ratio you desire. So as far as I am
concerned when I buy a gallon of 2 cycle oil I have all the ratios from 1:1
oil to 256:1 or even higher, but of course the ratio used is determined by
the manufacture and in bill's case the manual implies the saw can tolerate
either ratio. If what your friend says is true, then ask him who makes and
who sells the old outdated 16:1 oil and who makes the new improved 32:1 oil.
Just curious.
--
Frank Howell
When the saw book calls for twice as
> much of an oil labeled 16:1 as it does for an oil labeled 32:1, the only
> explanation I can see so far is that the oils are different.
>
That's because they are. Head for Wally World and buy the cheapest 2 cycle
oil on the shelf.
Take it home, mix it 50:1 and feed it to that ancient Poulan. If it blows up,
what have you lost?
LZ
If you are bothered by how much oil to use, I'd lean toward the richer
mixture.
If you use too much oil, the chainsaw will smoke and foul spark plugs, but
the engine will be fine.
If you use too little oil, the engine will seize up and the saw will be
junk.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)
I've already got more various 2-cycle oils than I know what to do with.
> Take it home, mix it 50:1 and feed it to that ancient Poulan. If it
> blows up, what have you lost?
I'd lose the ancient Poulan - which has been a better saw than the two
Stihls before it. However, it looks like the new Poulans are POS's.
I'm on board with that (Gasp!) theory.