Fridge problem Dometic RM2607
Mark and Debra Mathewson
propane. Two years ago I replaced the circuit board with the improved
one and also replaced the wiring harness to correct this problem. Now
the problem is back. I reseated all of the connections to ensure there
wasn't any loose connections.
After the fridge is running on propane for some 2-5 minutes, the fridge
shuts off the gas and the check light goes on. I have watched the flame
and it never wavers until the gas valve closes so I don't think it is a
fuel supply problem. I'm running on batteries (12.5V) so I have a clean
power source.
Any ideas on what is wrong? Could the thermocouple be intermittent?
I'm thinking of replacing the Dometic circuit board with a Dinosaur
board which claims to be better to solve this problem. Anyone have any
experience with them?
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/refrigerator_boards_page.htm
Thanks for the help.
Mark
Mark and Debra Mathewson
32mv when hot, just like the book says it should. I replaced the circuit
board with an older board that I had laying around. It fails at the same
point, roughly 45 seconds after the gas valve is opened.
Mark
Larrie Malobenski
Chris Bryant
>I having a problem with my Dometic fridge shutting down when running on
>propane. Two years ago I replaced the circuit board with the improved
>one and also replaced the wiring harness to correct this problem. Now
>the problem is back. I reseated all of the connections to ensure there
>wasn't any loose connections.
>
I would clean both the orifice and the burner- a lot of times
the burner will get rust particles in it which will cause the flame to
be "hit or miss" on the thermocouple. Your value of 32 mv is very
good- the board should accept anything above 15 mv (the drop out
point).
To be honest- you've done all of the basics- but just to
verify- your thermocouple should be hooked to terminal J3 (the second
from the right on 2 way boards- third on 3 way) and J10 (the left hand
most terminal).
Also- I take it this is happening just while running on
battery power (?)- IOW, the converter isn't charging- one other
culprit can be fluorescent lights.
The latest version of the Dometic boards I have not had any
troubles with- these are non-potted boards, and have been out for a
couple of years- what is the part number on your board?
As to the last question- I have not used the Dinosaur P-711
boards, but I have no reason to think that they are not first rate (I
do use their igniter boards). While I'm not sure the P-711 is any
better than the Dometic board, it does have a three year warranty,
which is reason enough.
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
On RVing-RV TV about RVs, by RVers: http://www.onrving.com
On RVing Forums- http://www.onrving.com/forums/default.asp
Mark and Debra Mathewson
I verified the proper connection from the board to the thermocouple. J3 and
J10. Yes this is running on battery power, with no other electrical draw.
Converter is off, AC power is off. My board number is 2931843.02. It is
potted (if I understand what potted means -- it is filled with an epoxy of
some sort covering most of the components).
With the thermocouple disconnected, or when it is connected, I got the same
results, which sure sounds like a bad connection or a bad thermocouple. I
verified the thermocouple is good. The gas shuts off in about 30-60 seconds
and the CHECK light comes on. After disconnecting and reconnecting all of
the terminals again, this time it stayed lit and has been lit for hours.
Maybe it was the thermocouple connection?
Must have been your advice! :) I still probably will buy the Dinosaur
board, just because my trust in Dometic isn't very high these days.
Thanks
Mark
Larrie Malobenski
reconnected. First check all wires for crimps or fraying especially at the
connectors. More then likely it was simple oxidation so clean the connector
surfaces to be on the safe side. If the surfaces are exposed then a light
rub with a pencil eraser will clean them. If not a little alcohol or better
yet some tuner cleaner from RS. Use liquid cleaners carefully as to not
dissolve the conformal coating.
iamrh...@gmail.com
I have the same Refridgerator in my 94 Lazy Daze.
The solution (for me) was to find the jet which blows gas into the burner, which is a 3/8" diameter tube about 6 inches long. The thermocouple and ignitor (obviously) are adjacent and follow it. At the other end, where the ignitor ends is a very fine grill (on top & into the flume). Look closely into that, and a lot of the time you will see debris 'clogging' it from the inside (can be very difficult to see). Blow it out with compressed air or canned air (always good to have in your RV!) & reignite.
Best,
Robin.
Technobarbarian
<iamrh...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:0fb738f7-46e1-4f9f...@googlegroups.com...
Debra aren't still waiting for help for a problem they were having in 2001.
OTOH it's sort of nice to know that this group will probably be getting
posts long after the current users are gone. Who knows there could be
debates on some of the odder topics here in the next century and beyond.
Lone Haranguer
back and forth across the flame point a few times.
LZ
Will Sill
travelers.
Will
Lone Haranguer
>
>> Hi Mark & Debra
>> I have the same Refridgerator in my 94 Lazy Daze.
>> The solution (for me) was to find the jet which blows gas into the burner, which is a 3/8" diameter tube about 6 inches long. The thermocouple and ignitor (obviously) are adjacent and follow it. At the other end, where the ignitor ends is a very fine grill (on top & into the flume). Look closely into that, and a lot of the time you will see debris 'clogging' it from the inside (can be very difficult to see). Blow it out with compressed air or canned air (always good to have in your RV!) & reignite.
>> Best,
>> Robin.
>
>
> Thanks to Google Groupers, I can finally get the answers to the
> questions I have.
>
> I just may have to wait 15 years....
>
Your ice cream will have turned to liquid by then.
LZ
Hunter Hampton
> On Sunday, June 10, 2001 at 9:04:49 AM UTC-7, Mark and Debra Mathewson
> wrote:
>> I having a problem with my Dometic fridge shutting down when running on
>> propane. Two years ago I replaced the circuit board with the improved
>> one and also replaced the wiring harness to correct this problem. Now
>> the problem is back. I reseated all of the connections to ensure there
>> wasn't any loose connections.
>>
>> After the fridge is running on propane for some 2-5 minutes, the fridge
>> shuts off the gas and the check light goes on. I have watched the flame
>> and it never wavers until the gas valve closes so I don't think it is a
>> fuel supply problem. I'm running on batteries (12.5V) so I have a clean
>> power source.
>>
>> Any ideas on what is wrong? Could the thermocouple be intermittent?
>> I'm thinking of replacing the Dometic circuit board with a Dinosaur
>> board which claims to be better to solve this problem. Anyone have any
>> experience with them?
>> http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/refrigerator_boards_page.htm
>>
>> Thanks for the help.
>>
>> Mark
Check this website for more info.
http://bryantrv.com/reefer.html
Hunter