Toilet questions
Wes Dukes
camped for 30 years. So the reason I started following this group is to
learn more about trailers. And buy one in a year or so.
I have some land where I built a garage/workshop with a bathroom and
septic system. The intent is we may eventually build a house, but
also use the camper there.
Can a trailer toilet system be hooked to a septic system, and if so it
seems some special connection would be needed to do this properly.
--
Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please.
sp...@www.spam.com is a garbage address.
Albert Lason
<sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote:
>Years ago when the kids were young we had a popup Apache, but have not
>camped for 30 years. So the reason I started following this group is to
>learn more about trailers. And buy one in a year or so.
>
>I have some land where I built a garage/workshop with a bathroom and
>septic system. The intent is we may eventually build a house, but
>also use the camper there.
>
>Can a trailer toilet system be hooked to a septic system, and if so it
>seems some special connection would be needed to do this properly.
I have a "dumb" setup where I park my fifth wheel and it is tied in to
my septic system. When I park I hook up just like an RV park.
But remember you have to dump the black water tank just like you would
any other time, meaning you keep the dump valve closed until the tank
is at least two thirds full before you dump(I flush it also each
time). YOU DO NOT LET THE TOILET TRY TO FLUSH STRAIGHT THROUGH THE
HOLDING TANK because almost all of the solids will not flow to and
through the drain.
Nate
"Wes Dukes" <sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote in message
news:slrng7ucrj...@fw.private.neotoma.org...
Would the chemicals used to purdy up the smell cause any trouble with a
septic tank's bacteria that breaks down the crap?
Nate
Jenny6833A
wrote:
Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
embalming agents. Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
enzymes.
:-)
Jenny
Wes Dukes
> On Jul 17, 1:20?pm, "Nate" <nsaptaemcscpn...@nsvpbaemlslp.anmet>
> wrote:
>> "Wes Dukes" <sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote in message
>>
>> news:slrng7ucrj...@fw.private.neotoma.org...
>>
>> > Years ago when the kids were young we had a popup Apache, but have not
>> > learn more about trailers. ?And buy one in a year or so.
>>
>> > I have some land where I built a garage/workshop with a bathroom and
>> > also use the camper there.
>>
>> > Can a trailer toilet system be hooked to a septic system, and if so it
>> > seems some special connection would be needed to do this properly.
>>
>> > --
>>
>> Would the chemicals used to purdy up the smell cause any trouble with a
>> septic tank's bacteria that breaks down the crap?
>
> Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
> embalming agents. Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
> enzymes.
>
Chuckle. Well made point. No embalming agents for me. Thanks.
>:-)
>
> Jenny
--
Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please.
sp...@www.spam.com is a garbage address.
Janet Wilder
They would if they are chemicals. The best bet would to use a bacteria
and enzyme product in the RV. That would not hurt the septic system
--
Janet Wilder
Bad spelling. Bad punctuation
Good Friends. Good Life
Janet Wilder
> Chuckle. Well made point. No embalming agents for me. Thanks.
It wasn't a joke, Wes. Many of the RV potty preparations contain
formaldehyde.
Elliot Richmond
<kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> Would the chemicals used to purdy up the smell cause any trouble with a
>> septic tank's bacteria that breaks down the crap?
>>
>> Nate
>
>They would if they are chemicals. The best bet would to use a bacteria
>and enzyme product in the RV. That would not hurt the septic system
When we picked up our used Casita, it had a stash of holding tank
treatment chemicals. They worked very well, claimed to contain no
formaldehyde, and further claimed to be safe for septic systems, what
ever that means. (Maybe that meant that nothing would actually
explode.)
Anyway, I planned to restock before I used the last packet, but things
got away from me, and now I don't even have an empty packet. I have no
idea what the brand was. Whatever it was, the stuff came in a shiny
metallic looking packet and consisted of blue crystals. I think the
lettering was also blue, but I could not swear to that.
Anybody recognize the brand?
Elliot Richmond
Itinerant astronomy teacher
Bill
> Anybody recognize the brand?
Yup. I've been using it for 30 years. The stuff is made by Thetford under
the brand name "Campa Chem". It comes in a white cardboard box with blue &
green markings. Go to your nearest Wal-Mart and check one of the automotive
aisles. They carry it. Should be about $6 for a box of 10 foil packets.
- Bill (El Alumbrado)
--
Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
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Elliot Richmond
<w8j5c9o2...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"Elliot Richmond" <xmric...@xaustin.xrr.xcom> wrote
>
>> Anybody recognize the brand?
>
>Yup. I've been using it for 30 years. The stuff is made by Thetford under
>the brand name "Campa Chem". It comes in a white cardboard box with blue &
>green markings. Go to your nearest Wal-Mart and check one of the automotive
>aisles. They carry it. Should be about $6 for a box of 10 foil packets.
>
>- Bill (El Alumbrado)
Thanks. That's the stuff. Although it looks like it would not be good
for septic tanks after all, since it contains the preservative
chemical Bronopol.
Bill
> "Bill" wrote:
>>"Elliot Richmond" <xmric...@xaustin.xrr.xcom> wrote
>>
>>> Anybody recognize the brand?
>>
>>Yup. I've been using it for 30 years. The stuff is made by Thetford under
>>the brand name "Campa Chem". It comes in a white cardboard box with blue &
>>green markings. Go to your nearest Wal-Mart and check one of the
>>automotive
>>aisles. They carry it. Should be about $6 for a box of 10 foil packets.
>
> for septic tanks after all, since it contains the preservative
> chemical Bronopol.
Perhaps so. Never-the-less, I have been using it for decades, emptying my
holding tanks into my septic system with no ill effects (I have not pumped
my septic tank in 20 years). The "green" stuff I have tried is by-and-large
worthless for odor control. In this case it would seem that you can't have
"effective" and "bio-friendly" in the same product.
Wes Dukes
> Wes Dukes wrote:
>
>> Chuckle. Well made point. No embalming agents for me. Thanks.
>
> It wasn't a joke, Wes. Many of the RV potty preparations contain
> formaldehyde.
>
I realize that, but I had never heard the chemicals equated to embalming
fluid which is what made me chuckle since the description was so apt.
Wes Dukes
> "Elliot Richmond" <xmric...@xaustin.xrr.xcom> wrote
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>>"Elliot Richmond" <xmric...@xaustin.xrr.xcom> wrote
>>>
>>>> Anybody recognize the brand?
>>>
>>>Yup. I've been using it for 30 years. The stuff is made by Thetford under
>>>the brand name "Campa Chem". It comes in a white cardboard box with blue &
>>>green markings. Go to your nearest Wal-Mart and check one of the
>>>automotive
>>>aisles. They carry it. Should be about $6 for a box of 10 foil packets.
>>
>> Thanks. That's the stuff. Although it looks like it would not be good
>> for septic tanks after all, since it contains the preservative
>> chemical Bronopol.
>
> Perhaps so. Never-the-less, I have been using it for decades, emptying my
> holding tanks into my septic system with no ill effects (I have not pumped
> my septic tank in 20 years). The "green" stuff I have tried is by-and-large
> worthless for odor control. In this case it would seem that you can't have
> "effective" and "bio-friendly" in the same product.
>
But a composting compound with biological odor masking compound seems
like it should be possible even if no one makes it.
Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
> - Bill (El Alumbrado)
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
> ------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
> Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
--
Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please.
sp...@www.spam.com is a garbage address.
Neon John
wrote:
>> Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
>> embalming agents. Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
>> enzymes.
>>
>
>Chuckle. Well made point. No embalming agents for me. Thanks.
Your septic tank won't GAS and if you think that it will, for God sakes, don't
EVER use any bleach or ammonia or any other antibacterial.
Amazing as it may seem, every time you take a dump you repopulate your septic
tank with bacteria. How do you think they got there in the first place?
Meanwhile my HOLDING tank does what it's supposed to do - it holds stuff.
Without odor. Because it's embalmed.
Me, it, my septic tank and my camping neighbors are all happy as clams in
sauce.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Risk: $20 hooker, year old condom.
Neon John
>Perhaps so. Never-the-less, I have been using it for decades, emptying my
>holding tanks into my septic system with no ill effects (I have not pumped
>my septic tank in 20 years). The "green" stuff I have tried is by-and-large
>worthless for odor control. In this case it would seem that you can't have
>"effective" and "bio-friendly" in the same product.
You're right but who cares? You don't want your HOLDING tank to become a
septic tank. That is, unless you like the constant smell of sewer gas.
Especially when you flush. A blast of gas from the tank up through the flush
valve isn't pleasant.
As they say about any other so-called toxic substance, "The devil's in the
dose." By the time the tiny bit of bacteria control chemical hits the septic
tank, it's so dilute and spent that it doesn't matter at all.
I use the old fashioned blue formaldehyde liquid and have since I've been
RVing. My septic tank is going on 40 years old and has never been touched.
Even if it acts up tomorrow, I will consider its performance and that of my
holding tank additive a success.
Wes, back to your original question. You don't need to do anything special to
mate your trailer to your septic system. Just don't skimp on water usage,
especially in the beginning. That shouldn't be a problem if you have the
trailer hooked up to water and use the normal amount of water for other
chores.
If you want to see just how well the two mate up, come up here to Green Cove.
There are 4 RV lots, each with about 20 RVs and served with a separate septic
tank. Everything works just fine.
The motel is also on a septic system, though it tends to have an occasional
problem caused by all the crap that people flush down motel toilets that don't
belong there. I've heard of more than one shoe having to be fished out of the
septic tank outlet to the leach field.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Why the US is losing its competitivve edge:"It used to be that the USA was pretty good at
producing stuff teenaged boys could lose a finger or two playing with."-James Niccol
Wes Dukes
> On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 18:37:39 -0500, "Bill" <w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>Perhaps so. Never-the-less, I have been using it for decades, emptying my
>>holding tanks into my septic system with no ill effects (I have not pumped
>>my septic tank in 20 years). The "green" stuff I have tried is by-and-large
>>worthless for odor control. In this case it would seem that you can't have
>>"effective" and "bio-friendly" in the same product.
>
> You're right but who cares? You don't want your HOLDING tank to become a
> septic tank. That is, unless you like the constant smell of sewer gas.
> Especially when you flush. A blast of gas from the tank up through the flush
> valve isn't pleasant.
Why would you get a blast of gas? Isn't there a vent pipe through the
roof that would prevent pressure buildup? Bear with me I am climbing a
learning curve here. I did have a co worker long ago describing haveing
to make an on the road repair to a gasket or flap on his toilet and
chiseling rivets off with a wood chisel because he did not have a cold
chisel. I think he made every repair on his RV himself, one talented
guy.
--
Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please.
sp...@www.spam.com is a garbage address.
Janet Wilder
> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
Any brand of single-ply white paper will work just fine. I used Scott in
our rigs for many years. I also use it in the house with the septic system.
Bill
> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of unpleasant
consequences.
nothermark
<sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote:
>Years ago when the kids were young we had a popup Apache, but have not
>camped for 30 years. So the reason I started following this group is to
>learn more about trailers. And buy one in a year or so.
>
>I have some land where I built a garage/workshop with a bathroom and
>septic system. The intent is we may eventually build a house, but
>also use the camper there.
>
>Can a trailer toilet system be hooked to a septic system, and if so it
>seems some special connection would be needed to do this properly.
Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
nothermark
Lone Haranguer
> "Wes Dukes" <sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote
>
>> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
>
> Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
> equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of unpleasant
> consequences.
>
> - Bill (El Alumbrado)
>
LZ
Bill
> Bill wrote:
>> "Wes Dukes" <sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote
>>
>>> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>>> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
>>
>> Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
>> equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>> unpleasant consequences.
>>
Perhaps so. I've never had cause to use one.
Lone Haranguer
> "Lone Haranguer" <linu...@gmail.com> wrote
>> Bill wrote:
>>> "Wes Dukes" <sek...@usenet.pr.neotoma.org.invalid> wrote
>>>
>>>> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>>>> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
>>> Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
>>> equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>>> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>>> unpleasant consequences.
>>>
>> That's true but multi-ply doesn't seem to faze the macerator.
>
> Perhaps so. I've never had cause to use one.
I'm pumping 225 feet to the septic tank.
LZ
Bill
> Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
> any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
> it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
> don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
> before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
> you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
> water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
> dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
> ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
Trust me, I have no reason to steer you wrong. If you're dumping only every
few days, you're going to want some chemicals. You really are. No kidding.
Really.
If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
Bill
>Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
>embalming agents. Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
>enzymes.
I disagree. A holding tank is not a septic tank. It is made to temporarily
hold waste, not digest it like a septic tank. Purdy up the smell anyway you
can, and dump as soon as you can. Bacteria and enzymes won't help a bit.
Bill
>>> That's true but multi-ply doesn't seem to faze the macerator.
>>
>> Perhaps so. I've never had cause to use one.
>
> I'm pumping 225 feet to the septic tank.
That would be cause to use one.
Janet Wilder
> "nothermark" <nothe...@not.here> wrote
>
>> Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
>> any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
>> it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
>> don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
>> before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
>> you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
>> water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
>> dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
>> ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
>
> Trust me, I have no reason to steer you wrong. If you're dumping only every
> few days, you're going to want some chemicals. You really are. No kidding.
> Really.
>
> If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
> sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
>
We have many full-timing friends who never put anything in their black
tanks except water, poop, pee and TP. They never had an odor problem.
We used a little bacteria and enzyme stuff in our fivers which had
enormous black tanks. (80 gallons on one and 76 gallons on the other) We
never had a problem with odor. When we got the motorhome with its much
smaller black tank, we needed more powerful stuff. I bought some oxygen
powered stuff that came in dissolvable packets at WalMart and it worked
quite well.
Janet Wilder
> "Jenny6833A" <Jenny...@aol.com> wrote
>
>> Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
>> embalming agents. Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
>> enzymes.
>
> I disagree. A holding tank is not a septic tank. It is made to temporarily
> hold waste, not digest it like a septic tank. Purdy up the smell anyway you
> can, and dump as soon as you can. Bacteria and enzymes won't help a bit.
They did for us. Also, if you are dumping your purtied up tanks into
someone's septic, it can be harmful. One of the Escapees parks had its
septic system die because of chemicals and laundry detergents. They made
people buy a particular brand of laundry powder. If you didn't want to
go out and purchase a whole box, they would sell you enough to do your
wash there. They banned formaldehyde.
Many RV parks we've visited, including the state of California, banned
formaldehyde in holding tanks. We've also been in RV parks that have
rules against using washer/dryers in the rigs. They have a larger septic
system for their laundry room that can handle the water and soap, but
the ones for the RV sewers couldn't.
I think one of the reasons that I am so cautious with my home septic
system is because of all I learned about them while RVing.
Bill
> I think one of the reasons that I am so cautious with my home septic
> system is because of all I learned about them while RVing.
Wow. I never give mine a second thought. It just keeps doing whatever it's
supposed to be doing. We've never even used any of the "additives" that are
supposed to keep the little critters in the tank happy. We have six
bathrooms, a washer/dryer, a garbage disposal, a dishwasher, plus the RV all
dumping into our tank with nary a hiccup.
Stop talking about septic problems! It's bad Ju-Ju! Na-Na-Na, I can't hear
you!
Besides, the skeptical "Jersey" side of me makes me think that banning
onboard washer/dryers in an RV park is more about collecting your quarters
in the laundry room than concerns over sewer capacity. It's not my fault,
I've been conditioned to think that way by years of exposure to New Jersey's
"Culture of Collection".
Kevin W Miller
<w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
<snip>
>
>If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
>sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
>
>- Bill (El Alumbrado)
Hamster? Oh, wait. That's a lack of a sense of taste...
--
Kevin W Miller
Cogita tute
http://www.bluemoongemworks.com/rv
Bob Giddings
<w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"nothermark" <nothe...@not.here> wrote
>
>> Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
>> any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
>> it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
>> don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
>> before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
>> you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
>> water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
>> dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
>> ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
>
>Trust me, I have no reason to steer you wrong. If you're dumping only every
>few days, you're going to want some chemicals. You really are. No kidding.
>Really.
>
>If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
>sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
>
>- Bill (El Alumbrado)
Anosmia.
And before you ask, lack of taste is ageusia. Or perhaps crass.
bill horne
I use the same 2-ply in my TT that I use in my house. Never had a problem.
--
bill
Theory don't mean squat if it don't work.
bill horne
> "nothermark" <nothe...@not.here> wrote
>
>> Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
>> any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
>> it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
>> don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
>> before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
>> you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
>> water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
>> dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
>> ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
>
> Trust me, I have no reason to steer you wrong. If you're dumping only every
> few days, you're going to want some chemicals. You really are. No kidding.
> Really.
>
> If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
> sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
Whatever it's called, you can't say it in public. "Olfactorly
challenged" will be the PC term.
GBinNC
>"Janet Wilder" <kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote
>
>> I think one of the reasons that I am so cautious with my home septic
>> system is because of all I learned about them while RVing.
>Wow. I never give mine a second thought. It just keeps doing whatever it's
>supposed to be doing. We've never even used any of the "additives" that are
>supposed to keep the little critters in the tank happy. We have six
>bathrooms, a washer/dryer, a garbage disposal, a dishwasher, plus the RV all
>dumping into our tank with nary a hiccup.
Agreed. Similar experience here -- and at the last two houses we lived
in before this one. Never had any kind of problem with them.
Janet just has a thing about septic systems. She doesn't realize how
much waste they can handle -- especially in a new, three-bedroom house
with only two occupants....
GB in NC
Bill
> Lone Haranguer wrote:
>> Bill wrote:
>>>
>>>> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>>>> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
>>>
>>> Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
>>> equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>>> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>>> unpleasant consequences.
>>>
>
See concurrent thread regarding "luck".
bill horne
> "bill horne" wrote
>> Lone Haranguer wrote:
>>> Bill wrote:
>>>> "Wes Dukes" wrote
>>>>
>>>>> Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>>>>> expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
>>>> Skip the expensive "camper" stuff. Scott's single-ply (or generic
>>>> equivalent) is just fine. Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>>>> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>>>> unpleasant consequences.
>>>>
>>> That's true but multi-ply doesn't seem to faze the macerator.
>> I use the same 2-ply in my TT that I use in my house. Never had a problem.
>
> See concurrent thread regarding "luck".
Then I've had a long run of it - and I don't screw with things that
ain't broke.
Besides, my ass chooses my TP - and my holding tank doesn't get a vote.
Neon John
wrote:
>But a composting compound with biological odor masking compound seems
>like it should be possible even if no one makes it.
I once walked down the aisle at $CW$ and bought one of each offering to test.
I went right back to my tried-and-true formaldehyde after several product
tests resulted in severe cases of olfactory insult.
>
>Oh, yes, what is the opinion of the special toilet paper that is quite
>expensive versus regular toilet paper. Is it worth it in an RV?
I guess that it depends a lot on whether your shit pipe goes straight down
into your holding tank (most MHs) or if it winds around, traipsing over hill
and dale before entering the tank (many 5th wheels). Probably also dependent
on how much water you use with each flush.
My SP has a direct shot into the holding tank so I use the same TP that I use
at home Charmin unscented or whatever Sam's is selling in the bulk pack at the
moment. I do make sure to fill the bowl with water when TP is to be flushed
and otherwise make sure there is enough water in the black tank so that it'll
slosh around and break up the hunks of TP and other stuff.
I use a transparent 45 deg elbow on my dump hose. One can never be too
observant :-) There is almost never anything that can be identified - just a
stream of brown glop. I never find any of those shards of TP in the hose
afterwards either.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
What do you call 4 Blondes in an Abrams? Air Tank.
Neon John
wrote:
>> You're right but who cares? You don't want your HOLDING tank to become a
>> septic tank. That is, unless you like the constant smell of sewer gas.
>> Especially when you flush. A blast of gas from the tank up through the flush
>> valve isn't pleasant.
>
>Why would you get a blast of gas? Isn't there a vent pipe through the
>roof that would prevent pressure buildup? Bear with me I am climbing a
>learning curve here. I did have a co worker long ago describing haveing
>to make an on the road repair to a gasket or flap on his toilet and
>chiseling rivets off with a wood chisel because he did not have a cold
>chisel. I think he made every repair on his RV himself, one talented
>guy.
Several reasons. The bacteria "working off" make heat and that causes the
gases over the liquid to be warm. Heat rises and all that stuff. Also, when
it's real hot outside and cool inside, the hot gases rise. The blast feels
warm, whatever the reason.
Other possible causes include having my stove vent hood or Maxxair fan
running, reducing the pressure inside the rig.
I'm sure that there is the same flow of gas whether the tank is 'working off'
or not, it's just that when the formaldehyde stuff is in there, it doesn't
have much odor. This stuff (I think it's Thetford too. Anyway I get it at
Wallyworld) contains a strong deodorant in addition to the formaldehyde.
JOhn
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
What do you call a blonde's cranial cavity? Vacuum chamber?
Jenny6833A
> "Jenny6833A" <Jenny68...@aol.com> wrote
>
> >Put bacteria and enzymes in your RV holding tank, not perfumes and
> >embalming agents. �Your septic tank will appreciate bacteria and
> >enzymes.
>
> I disagree.
That's hardly unusual.
> A holding tank is not a septic tank.
Uh huh.
> It is made to temporarily hold waste ...
Uh huh.
> ... not digest it like a septic tank.
How can you say what it's _not_ made to do? Will you next tell me
that coat hangers are made to hang coats, but not for all the other
uses humans have devised? Are screwdrivers to be used only for
driving screws? Is duct tape only for taping ducts?
> Purdy up the smell anyway you can ...
Ours has never smelled. Maybe you should use enzymes and bacteria
like we do. Or maybe your diet is WAAAAAAAAAAAAAY different from
ours. Or your digestive system. Or your umbrado. Or something.
> ... and dump as soon as you can.
Perhaps you don't boondock much. With our 60 gallon black tank, we do
-- and for long periods.
> Bacteria and enzymes won't help a bit.
They liquify instead of embalm, which helps keep the gauges clean. No
big chunks of umbrado get stuck on our probes. And we aren't damaging
the septic systems we dump into. Ever noticed the signs campgrounds
put up about what NOT to put in their septic systems.
Maybe it's just our sense of social responsibility. We're liberals,
you know.
> - Bill (El Alumbrado)
ROTFLM6833AO !!!
Jenny
(who always loves to joust with El Um)
nothermark
wrote:
Thanks, I probaly have it. And I believe Bill and Janet even though
they say somewhat different things. That is the richness of the group
wisdom approach. Thinking people can get a lot of information on "how
it's done" then workout what is best for them.
In my case no matter what is in the tank there is a little smell in
the bathroom that smells more like air freshener than anything else.
If I leave the vent cracked the level falls under background levels.
Coming from the two most likey directions to go we found free dumping
within 20 miles of home so we dump there and come in empty. When we
went off for a week I tried some orange bio stuff in the first tank
then nothing with no discernable difference.
FWIW - I think it's going turn out to be weather dependent. Bacteria
and stink grow faster in hot weather. I'm working on the theory that
if I dump every couple days I dump faster than the bacteria grow
around here in cooler rainy weather. (We avoid hot weather as it
makes more sense tostay home and use the pool that is only viable for
2-1/2 months a year.)
I also think keeping 3-5 gallons of water in the 55 gal black tank
keeps things more flushable.
I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there. It
does seem to help the gauges. But as bill h says "Theory don't mean
squat if it don't work." Play a little and see how much money you
want to flush down the toilet.
;-)
Will
<w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> . . . . . . Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of unpleasant
>consequences.
Bull.
Stick to a subject you know. All commercial TP dissolves easily.
Will - The self-appointed Curmudgeon of Sill Hill
Bill
> "Bill" wrote:
>
>> . . . . . . Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>>product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>>unpleasant
>>consequences.
>
> Bull.
>
> Stick to a subject you know. All commercial TP dissolves easily.
As a self-appointed "Toilet Paper Engineer", I bow to your theoretical
knowledge. However, in the real world, you're wrong. In this case there are
demonstrable degrees of "easy".
Dan Listermann
"Lone Haranguer" <linu...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:6eacilF...@mid.individual.net...
It would not bother a macerator, but might have a hard time getting to it.
I would think that heavier tissues would be more prone to clogging.
bill horne
> "Will" <wi...@epix.net> wrote:
>> "Bill" wrote:
>>
>>> . . . . . . Don't use a quilted, multi-ply, or scented
>>> product, though. It won't dissolve easily leading to all sorts of
>>> unpleasant
>>> consequences.
>> Bull.
>>
>> Stick to a subject you know. All commercial TP dissolves easily.
>
> As a self-appointed "Toilet Paper Engineer", I bow to your theoretical
> knowledge. However, in the real world, you're wrong. In this case there are
> demonstrable degrees of "easy".
My real world experience has Never consisted of a clog or white pyramid,
and I've nearly Always used 2-ply (various brands) in the TT. Have you
experienced either, and if so, what kind of TP was it?
Also, my tank dumping rule has Always been:
Dump at every opportunity.
That means I've done a lot of tank dumping at less than a quarter of a
tank - which is contrary to another rule frequently advocated in here.
And I've Never had a black pyramid.
--
bill
bill horne
> I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
> detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there. It
> does seem to help the gauges. But as bill h says "Theory don't mean
> squat if it don't work." Play a little and see how much money you
> want to flush down the toilet.
Before I had experience, I used to add something or other to the black
tank. My first experience came when I ran out of something or other, and
didn't use something or other. Since then, I don't use anything or other.
And as you've correctly surmised, I don't think much of all these clog
and pyramid theories.
However, I'll agree that if you do waterless craps in your toilet, and
pee out in the bushes, the black tank probably won't empty very well. If
at all.
--
bill
Neon John
>
>I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
>detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there. It
>does seem to help the gauges. But as bill h says "Theory don't mean
>squat if it don't work." Play a little and see how much money you
>want to flush down the toilet.
I'm not sure what a detergent treatment would do. Spotless tank walls and a
sparkling dump valve? :-)
The only treatment that I've ever done to mine was to add some of the bacteria
additive that was automatically injected into my restaurant's grease trap
every night. This stuff comes as a 5 gallon pail of solution and contains 3
genetically engineered bacteria. I forget what the other two do but the one
that I'm interested in eats fast like a 300 lb woman at a fried chicken
buffet! It converted my grease trap from something that has to be cleaned
monthly (yuck! I'd rather deal with a black tank) to something that I could
ignore. An automatic metering pump gave the trap a shot every night. A
nightly shot was necessary because the bleach solution that we used to
sanitize dishes after washing killed the friendly l'il bugs. *sob*.
Anyway, the only reason that I did this was that I cook a lot while traveling
and I was beginning to see a buildup of grease inside my tank. My shitpipe
has a straight shot into the tank so I can see around in there. Especially if
I drop in a 12 volt light on a cord.
I flushed the tank a couple of times to get rid of the formaldehyde, then
filled the tank with water after adding the bacteria solution. I let it sit
for a week. When I drained the tank, viola! No grease.
I could have probably accomplished the same thing by simply filling the tank
with hot water from my home water heater. It was easier to dump in the
bacteria since I already had it.
No idea if the stuff that they sell in stores has the same bacteria.
Unless you cook a LOT and that cooking involves a LOT of animal fat, I'd not
worry about it.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
If the letters PhD appear after a person's name, that person will
remain outdoors even after it's started raining.
Janet Wilder
>
> I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
> detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there.
You reminded me of a true story.
Two couples were traveling together in their Class Cs. The ladies
decided that after the tanks were dumped they would clean them up by
putting some Joy dish soap in them along with a few gallons of water and
this would slosh around while they traveled to their next camping place.
When, several hundred miles later, they arrived at their destination.
Everyone in the RV park came out to watch the class C's with the bubbles
streaming out of their roof vents.
One of the couples told me this story. I wish I had been there.
Robert Bonomi
Kevin W Miller <i09172strudelyahoo.com> wrote:
>On Thu, 17 Jul 2008 21:32:08 -0500, "Bill"
><w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>
><snip>
>>
>>If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
>>sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
>>
>>- Bill (El Alumbrado)
>
>Hamster? Oh, wait. That's a lack of a sense of taste...
Careful there, Kevin. Someone might think you're malone-ing them.
Robert Bonomi
Bill <w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"nothermark" <nothe...@not.here> wrote
>
>> Aside from the other entries let me toss this in. Do you really need
>> any chemicals? If daytime temps are running hot maybe you do. When
>> it's cool daytime and cold nights I haven't used anything so far and
>> don't see a problem yet. I did toss in a cup of Simple Green once
>> before a ride and my gauges worked for that trip. My point is that if
>> you are dumping every few days you may not need to add anything but
>> water. You might want to add several gallons of that after every
>> dump. Add the other chemicals if you get a problem. Only you can
>> ultimately figure out if and when you need something.
>
>Trust me, I have no reason to steer you wrong. If you're dumping only every
>few days, you're going to want some chemicals. You really are. No kidding.
>Really.
>
>If "blind" is the lack of a sense of sight, and "deaf" is the lack of a
>sense of hearing, what's the lack of a sense of smell called?
I've heard people refer to dis-scent-ary problems.
R.J.(Bob) Evans
<kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>Many RV parks we've visited, including the state of California, banned
>formaldehyde in holding tanks. We've also been in RV parks that have
>rules against using washer/dryers in the rigs. They have a larger septic
>system for their laundry room that can handle the water and soap, but
>the ones for the RV sewers couldn't.
>
Well that settles it then. A few nameless parks in California banned
formaldehyde and wash detergents so it must be so.
I've lived on septic systems for over 20 years. The only trouble I
have had in that time has been caused by low bidder construction and
previous owner stupidity. A well designed septic system should be
transparent to the owner. About every 3 or 4 years get the solid tank
pumped and the rest of the time ignore it.
--
R.J.(Bob) Evans
(return address needs alteration to work)
http://travellingwithgeorge.blogspot.com/
GBinNC
>A well designed septic system should be
>transparent to the owner. About every 3 or 4 years get the solid tank
>pumped and the rest of the time ignore it.
None of the ones we've had in various houses have ever needed to be
pumped out.
The ones in our previous two houses weren't pumped for over 30 years, I
know for a fact. And a family with three kids lived in one of them for
the ten years before we bought it.
GB in NC
Hunter Hampton
>None of the ones we've had in various houses have ever needed to be
>pumped out.
I've had one that needed to be pumped out....
I clearly remember it because it was my wedding day, and the wedding
was at home.
Maybe it was an omen <g>
Hunter
GBinNC
LOL. Yeah, I'd have worried about that one....
GB in NC
JD
<kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>Bill wrote:
>> "Jenny6833A" <Jenny...@aol.com> wrote
>
>They did for us. Also, if you are dumping your purtied up tanks into
>someone's septic, it can be harmful. One of the Escapees parks had its
>septic system die because of chemicals and laundry detergents. They made
>people buy a particular brand of laundry powder. If you didn't want to
>go out and purchase a whole box, they would sell you enough to do your
>wash there. They banned formaldehyde.
>
>Many RV parks we've visited, including the state of California, banned
>formaldehyde in holding tanks. We've also been in RV parks that have
>rules against using washer/dryers in the rigs. They have a larger septic
>system for their laundry room that can handle the water and soap, but
>the ones for the RV sewers couldn't.
>
>I think one of the reasons that I am so cautious with my home septic
>system is because of all I learned about them while RVing.
All well and good but technically, the materials in a black tank do
NOT decompose to any degree after one week, enzymes or not. Certainly
the decomposition process begins but the natural enzymes occurring in
poop are already at work.
Formaldehyde had minimal affect on septic systems but massive amounts
can cause problems. If people use recommended amounts when they know
they will not be dumping for 4+ days, all well and good but if they
put a load of "Super Blue Good Smell with Formaldehyde" every day,
they are overdoing a good thing.
We rarely use anything except at the end of travels and know we will
be unlikely to use the potty for a while. I often go to the RV and
sometimes need relief so a small amount is advisable.
Otherwise use nothing or enzymes if you wish or Formaldehyde if you
must, but a small amount of poop odor when the valve opens is more
than bearable.
Of course, this comes from a person that lived down wind from the
second largest stockyards/packing house town in the country in the
40's-60's.
---
$$$$$$$$$%%
Yours truly, Johnny Dollar!
JD
<w8j6c4o7...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>"Janet Wilder" <kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote
>
>> I think one of the reasons that I am so cautious with my home septic
>> system is because of all I learned about them while RVing.
>
>Wow. I never give mine a second thought. It just keeps doing whatever it's
>supposed to be doing. We've never even used any of the "additives" that are
>supposed to keep the little critters in the tank happy. We have six
>bathrooms, a washer/dryer, a garbage disposal, a dishwasher, plus the RV all
>dumping into our tank with nary a hiccup.
>
>Stop talking about septic problems! It's bad Ju-Ju! Na-Na-Na, I can't hear
>you!
>
>Besides, the skeptical "Jersey" side of me makes me think that banning
>onboard washer/dryers in an RV park is more about collecting your quarters
>in the laundry room than concerns over sewer capacity. It's not my fault,
>I've been conditioned to think that way by years of exposure to New Jersey's
>"Culture of Collection".
>
>- Bill (El Alumbrado)
We had what is called a 'dry well' septic system at on home. We used
it to dump washer, disposal and 3 bathrooms. When we sold after 13
years we had to have the system pumped per the bew owner. The outfit
came in, uncapped the system and could get a thing out of it. The guy
was dumbfounded.
Wes Dukes
Anosmia. I lost mine in 2002. I had two colds back to back and that
wiped out most of the olefactory nerves. I have maybe 5% left.
Coffee, smoke(every kind of smoke smells like incense to me), caTylytic
converters.
You can also lose it from a blow to the forehead or nasal area. A lady
who works with my wife lost hers on a bad softball bounce. Hers
recovered within a year.
I expected it to affect my appetite, but it has not.
Salt, sour, sweet and bitter can be detected from the taste buds on the
tongue. And peppers (which is more pain receptors) in the mouth rather
than smell or tastebuds.
> - Bill (El Alumbrado)
>
>
>
> --
> Posted via NewsDemon.com - Premium Uncensored Newsgroup Service
> ------->>>>>>http://www.NewsDemon.com<<<<<<------
> Unlimited Access, Anonymous Accounts, Uncensored Broadband Access
--
Wes Dukes (wdukes.pobox@com) Swap the . and the @ to email me please.
sp...@www.spam.com is a garbage address.
bill horne
Unless they've got a 3-gallon holding tank and used a quart of Joy,
that's hard to believe.
--
bill
Hunter Hampton
wrote:
>Unless they've got a 3-gallon holding tank and used a quart of Joy,
>that's hard to believe.
I agree... sounds like an I Love Lucy episode...
Hunter
nothermark
>On 18 Jul 2008 06:50:02 -0500, nothermark <nothe...@not.here> wrote:
>
>>
>>I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
>>detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there. It
>>does seem to help the gauges. But as bill h says "Theory don't mean
>>squat if it don't work." Play a little and see how much money you
>>want to flush down the toilet.
>
>I'm not sure what a detergent treatment would do. Spotless tank walls and a
>sparkling dump valve? :-)
I tried it because my gauge did not work. When I did it the gauge
worked for that trip but is back to a false high reading so I will do
it again next trip. I do not know what the actual sensing deviceis
but I assume it is being fouled with either TP or the other solids. A
half cup of simple green in 4 or 5gallons of water cleaned it so I may
try just water and add the detergent if the gauge does not change.
I am getting convinced that a couple of gallons of water after dumping
is a good idea as the Thetford toilet we have does not dump much water
with a flush. That way there is something in there to keep things
flowing and sloshing. We are also learning to use the water only
lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>
>The only treatment that I've ever done to mine was to add some of the bacteria
>additive that was automatically injected into my restaurant's grease trap
>every night. This stuff comes as a 5 gallon pail of solution and contains 3
>genetically engineered bacteria. I forget what the other two do but the one
>that I'm interested in eats fast like a 300 lb woman at a fried chicken
>buffet! It converted my grease trap from something that has to be cleaned
>monthly (yuck! I'd rather deal with a black tank) to something that I could
>ignore. An automatic metering pump gave the trap a shot every night. A
>nightly shot was necessary because the bleach solution that we used to
>sanitize dishes after washing killed the friendly l'il bugs. *sob*.
>
>Anyway, the only reason that I did this was that I cook a lot while traveling
>and I was beginning to see a buildup of grease inside my tank. My shitpipe
>has a straight shot into the tank so I can see around in there. Especially if
>I drop in a 12 volt light on a cord.
>
>I flushed the tank a couple of times to get rid of the formaldehyde, then
>filled the tank with water after adding the bacteria solution. I let it sit
>for a week. When I drained the tank, viola! No grease.
>
>I could have probably accomplished the same thing by simply filling the tank
>with hot water from my home water heater. It was easier to dump in the
>bacteria since I already had it.
>
>No idea if the stuff that they sell in stores has the same bacteria.
>
>Unless you cook a LOT and that cooking involves a LOT of animal fat, I'd not
>worry about it.
>
>John
Interesting. It sounds like something similar to what we bought at
Camping World when we picked up the unit. I always wondered if the
microbe based cleaners worked that well. It sounds like they can.
nothermark
JD
wrote:
>Bill wrote:
Me too. 4+ years using various TPs and currently on 2-ply Angel Soft,
unscented. We almost dump at each stop. even if only over night. Not
always, tho. Still no problems.
Janet Wilder
> All well and good but technically, the materials in a black tank do
> NOT decompose to any degree after one week, enzymes or not. Certainly
> the decomposition process begins but the natural enzymes occurring in
> poop are already at work.
When I had my fivers I never dumped my black tanks in just a week. More
like two weeks.
One of the numerous things I disliked about the motorhome was the small
(in comparison to my fivers) holding tanks.
Janet Wilder
to lie to me. I found her to be completely credible.
Janet Wilder
If it's a plastic bowl wipe the bowl with Formula 303. Makes it slipperier
bill horne
It's my opinion that most of these black tank "problems" are little more
than anal theory. Or the victims (if there really are any) are not
drinking enough liquids.
bill horne
> We are also learning to use the water only
> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
--
bill
Lone Haranguer
> nothermark wrote:
>> We are also learning to use the water only
>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>
> Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
> intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
>
LZ
Bruce S
But in my case that was done when I was too young to remember it. Maybe
that's why it seems to be something that didn't have to be learned.
Bruce
R.J.(Bob) Evans
>My real world experience has Never consisted of a clog or white pyramid,
>and I've nearly Always used 2-ply (various brands) in the TT. Have you
>experienced either, and if so, what kind of TP was it?
>
My bride has a simple rule for buying TP - it has to be ass friendly
and cheap. Whatever fits that description goes in the toilet - in the
house or in the bus, makes no difference.
GBinNC
>nothermark wrote:
>> We are also learning to use the water only
>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
>intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
LOL. I am reminded once again of the walk-through given by the
good-ol'-boy tech at the dealership where we bought our used Class B
nearly ten years ago. He was stressing the importance of putting water
into the bowl before "sitting down."
His exact words were (and I will never forget it as long as I live),
"Dry dookie don't flush."
That pretty well sums it up.
GB in NC
R.J.(Bob) Evans
<kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>The lady who told me this story owned one of the RVs. She had no reason
>to lie to me. I found her to be completely credible.
I didn't.
Hunter Hampton
dot org> wrote:
>My bride has a simple rule for buying TP - it has to be ass friendly
>and cheap.
Bob,
I think ass friendly cheap TP might be an oxymoron...
Hunter
Lone Haranguer
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 19:31:00 -0500 Janet Wilder
> <kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>> The lady who told me this story owned one of the RVs. She had no reason
>> to lie to me. I found her to be completely credible.
>
> I didn't.
>
LZ
R.J.(Bob) Evans
You are welcome to your opinion but I have shared my opinion of your
opinions often enough in the past that I don't think it is necessary
to repeat it here.
RAMł
@news.astraweb.com:
> nothermark wrote:
>
>>
>> I'm working on whether or not it's worth dumping in a shot of
>> detergent before a good ride to wash down whatever is inside there.
>
> You reminded me of a true story.
>
> Two couples were traveling together in their Class Cs. The ladies
> decided that after the tanks were dumped they would clean them up by
> putting some Joy dish soap in them along with a few gallons of water and
> this would slosh around while they traveled to their next camping place.
>
> When, several hundred miles later, they arrived at their destination.
> Everyone in the RV park came out to watch the class C's with the bubbles
> streaming out of their roof vents.
>
> One of the couples told me this story. I wish I had been there.
Would "some" amount to a small bottle?
RAMł
news:m8k284tgjrsfkqp5q...@4ax.com:
Try White Cloud from Wally-World.
It's both.
Janet Wilder
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 19:31:00 -0500 Janet Wilder
> <kellie...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>> The lady who told me this story owned one of the RVs. She had no reason
>> to lie to me. I found her to be completely credible.
>
> I didn't.
Ask me if I care
bill horne
Well, then. Ahem. If they have to stress it at dealerships, I may have
overestimated the common sense level of the average Thetford user.
bill horne
No offense, but I still find it hard to believe unless the parameters I
suggested were in play.
bill horne
I actually thought about doing that, but I ran aground as soon as
realized I didn't know the holding tank size and the Joy/water ratio
present in the original alleged incident.
Lone Haranguer
LZ
Lone Haranguer
LZ
Bill
> My real world experience has Never consisted of a clog or white pyramid,
> and I've nearly Always used 2-ply (various brands) in the TT. Have you
> experienced either, and if so, what kind of TP was it?
One of the "Quilted Softer Kinds" some guests bought at a grocery in
Menominee WI, because that's the brand they used at home. Clogged outlet
pipe. Had to sacrifice a perfectly good wire hanger to get things moving
again. Result was a "white pulpsplosion". It wasn't pretty.
Here's a trick. Take two wads of TP, one multi-ply or quilted, and one
single ply. Put each in an old mayonnaise jar or something similar. Add a
few ounces of water. Screw on the lids and shale vigorously. I suspect
you'll have one jar full of thin white milky emulsion (the single ply) and
one jar of viscous white goo.
> Also, my tank dumping rule has Always been:
> Dump at every opportunity.
Amen, brother. In a campground, every day. At the very least, every 3rd day,
even when "boondocking". I don't want to create a little ecosystem in there,
I just want it gone.
> That means I've done a lot of tank dumping at less than a quarter of a
> tank - which is contrary to another rule frequently advocated in here. And
> I've Never had a black pyramid.
Nor have I. Just the aforementioned "white clog".
- Bill (El Alumbrado)
--
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bill horne
> "bill horne" <red...@rye.net> wrote
>
>> My real world experience has Never consisted of a clog or white pyramid,
>> and I've nearly Always used 2-ply (various brands) in the TT. Have you
>> experienced either, and if so, what kind of TP was it?
>
> One of the "Quilted Softer Kinds" some guests bought at a grocery in
> Menominee WI, because that's the brand they used at home. Clogged outlet
> pipe. Had to sacrifice a perfectly good wire hanger to get things moving
> again. Result was a "white pulpsplosion". It wasn't pretty.
>
> Here's a trick. Take two wads of TP, one multi-ply or quilted, and one
> single ply. Put each in an old mayonnaise jar or something similar. Add a
> few ounces of water. Screw on the lids and shale vigorously. I suspect
> you'll have one jar full of thin white milky emulsion (the single ply) and
> one jar of viscous white goo.
You "suspect", eh? So it's just another damtheory, eh?
I'm ashamed to actually be doing this, but:
I put some of my Charmin 2-ply Ultra Strong (to which my ass has given
full approval after it examined countless rolls) in a jar with water.
Every minute or so, I gave it a few sidewise sloshes.
At about 5 minutes, it was coming apart.
At 10 minutes, there were too many pieces to count.
At 15 minutes, there were more than too many pieces to count.
This embarrassing testing confirms my experience - as I expected it to -
and I conclude:
Worrying about what TP to use in your RV is uselessly anal - as long as
you use a commonsensical amount of water to flush, and your diet doesn't
cause you to shit brown sponges.
And for the record, Charmin 2-ply U-S has a serious BRF (breakthrough
resistance factor), has sufficient absorbency to satisfy the most
discriminating asswiper under any known viscosity condition (from bricks
to broth), and has an undetectable chafe factor even under Mexican
Two-Step and Jalapeño Afterburner events.
So I say again, let your ass do the choosing, and disregard all this
RORT white pyramid and clog fear-mongering bullshit. Worry instead about
finding yourself out in the boondocks, a load at the door, and
discovering that you left your TP at home next to the mayonnaise jar.
Bah. I'll never forgive myself for actually testing this bullshit, and
giving it the respect that it richly doesn't deserve.
>> Also, my tank dumping rule has Always been:
>> Dump at every opportunity.
>
> Amen, brother. In a campground, every day. At the very least, every 3rd day,
> even when "boondocking". I don't want to create a little ecosystem in there,
> I just want it gone.
I don't care about creating - or even evolving - an ecosystem - I just
don't want to find myself 100 miles from a dump station and discover
that my tank is full.
Top off the water and dump the tanks at every convenient opportunity.
That's my rule. It's worked flawlessly for 38 years. It ain't broke. I
ain't gonna fix it.
I've analyzed, and will continue as always. Y'all can analize and wring
your hands and shake your mayonnaise jars if you want. But tonight, I
shook my first, and last, mayonnaise jar.
Note:
In the interest of full disclosure of the testing protocol details, I
must reveal here that I did not use a mayonnaise jar - I used a Ball
Mason jar. So sue me.
Will
wrote:
>You "suspect", eh? So it's just another damtheory, eh?
>
>I'm ashamed to actually be doing this, but:
>
>I put some of my Charmin 2-ply Ultra Strong (to which my ass has given
>full approval after it examined countless rolls) in a jar with water.
>
>Every minute or so, I gave it a few sidewise sloshes.
>
>At about 5 minutes, it was coming apart.
>
>At 10 minutes, there were too many pieces to count.
>
>At 15 minutes, there were more than too many pieces to count.
>
>This embarrassing testing confirms my experience - as I expected it to -
>and I conclude:
>
>Worrying about what TP to use in your RV is uselessly anal - as long as
>you use a commonsensical amount of water to flush, and your diet doesn't
>cause you to shit brown sponges.
>
>And for the record, Charmin 2-ply U-S has a serious BRF (breakthrough
>resistance factor), has sufficient absorbency to satisfy the most
>discriminating asswiper under any known viscosity condition (from bricks
>to broth), and has an undetectable chafe factor even under Mexican
>Two-Step and Jalapeño Afterburner events.
>
>So I say again, let your ass do the choosing, and disregard all this
>RORT white pyramid and clog fear-mongering bullshit.
You done good. As usual, the Flaming One is wrong.
Certainly there will be SOME differences in the rate and degree of
decomposition, but unless you insist on using waxed paper to wipe, all
TP's will disintegrate in the tank.
Will - The self-appointed Curmudgeon of Sill Hill
JD
wrote:
>>>
>> The lady who told me this story owned one of the RVs. She had no reason
>> to lie to me. I found her to be completely credible.
>>
>
>No offense, but I still find it hard to believe unless the parameters I
>suggested were in play.
I can believe it when the water is extremely soft. In our old house,
anything more than a capful of dishsoap was a near disaster.
wwe...@mungedhughes.net
When we bought our new coach, a big warning came with the new toilet
(Sealand by Dometic). Use any TP EXCEPT Charmin. Used Sealand toilets
for years but never saw that before. Don't know why they excluded
Charmin unless it is too soft.......
George
GBinNC
>> His exact words were (and I will never forget it as long as I live),
>> "Dry dookie don't flush."
>>
>> GB in NC
>Well, then. Ahem. If they have to stress it at dealerships, I may have
>overestimated the common sense level of the average Thetford user.
Perhaps you overestimated the common sense level of the average RVer.
Even without the advice I believe I'd have known better than to drop a
load into a dry toilet, but maybe that's just me.
Anyway, I got the distinct impression that wasn't the first time he'd
said it. It sounded like a routine part of his spiel.
There must have been a reason.
GB in NC
Lone Haranguer
"peer reviewed" stamp will be denied.
Personally I think the test proved conclusive but you know the rules.
LZ
bill horne
If the TP Terrormongers are considered my peers, then I'm proud it was
denied.
> Personally I think the test proved conclusive but you know the rules.
> LZ
Rules? I'm a confirmed scoffrule - I drive 8 over. In the left lane -
even when I'm not passing.
Lone Haranguer
For that remark you were assigned negative points for your next test.
>
>> Personally I think the test proved conclusive but you know the rules.
>> LZ
>
> Rules? I'm a confirmed scoffrule - I drive 8 over. In the left lane -
> even when I'm not passing.
The scientific community looks askance at rule-breakers. Conform or be
shunned.......that's the name of the game.
LZ
>
>
bill horne
I checked - I'm not bleeding.
>> Rules? I'm a confirmed scoffrule - I drive 8 over. In the left lane -
>> even when I'm not passing.
>
> The scientific community looks askance at rule-breakers. Conform or be
> shunned.......that's the name of the game.
This is not a scientific community - it's a guessic, speculatic, and
bullshitic community.
Lone Haranguer
> Lone Haranguer wrote:
>> bill horne wrote:
>
>>> If the TP Terrormongers are considered my peers, then I'm proud it
>>> was denied.
>>
>> For that remark you were assigned negative points for your next test.
>
> I checked - I'm not bleeding.
Just so you know why you got the low score on your next test.
>
>>> Rules? I'm a confirmed scoffrule - I drive 8 over. In the left lane -
>>> even when I'm not passing.
>>
>> The scientific community looks askance at rule-breakers. Conform or
>> be shunned.......that's the name of the game.
>
> This is not a scientific community - it's a guessic, speculatic, and
> bullshitic community.
>
Yahbut RORT is mostly a pretend world or your testing would be
considered a total waste of time.
LZ
Neon John
>> Two couples were traveling together in their Class Cs. The ladies
>> decided that after the tanks were dumped they would clean them up by
>> putting some Joy dish soap in them along with a few gallons of water and
>> this would slosh around while they traveled to their next camping place.
>>
>> When, several hundred miles later, they arrived at their destination.
>> Everyone in the RV park came out to watch the class C's with the bubbles
>> streaming out of their roof vents.
>>
>> One of the couples told me this story. I wish I had been there.
>
>Would "some" amount to a small bottle?
Perhaps for the first time ever in the history of RORT, I believe something
that the princess says. If you've ever let even a few drops of one of the
chick-oriented high foaming detergents get in your automatic dishwasher,
you'll believe it. Ditto if you've ever let one of those fine mist spray
nozzles spray into a sink full of Joy. Billowing clouds of foam out on the
floor.
Yeah, I can visualize bubbles coming out the vent stack after the chick gave
the tank a good hefty squirt, operating under the old theory that "if some is
good, more is better".
Funny thing is, suds have absolutely nothing to do with cleaning. The sudsing
ingredient is added just to keep the house chicks happy. In a commercial or
industrial setting, suds are a pain in the butt. The stuff we used in my
restaurant made almost no suds but cut grease many times better than the
consumer stuff. Only cost about $3 a gallon too. Hey, someone's gotta pay
for all those detergent commercials during the daytime soaps.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Hell is truth seen too late. -Hobbs
Neon John
>nothermark wrote:
>> We are also learning to use the water only
>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>
>Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
>intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
The "water only" handle was NOT obvious on my toilet, as it is nested inside
the flush handle. It WAS intuitively obvious that the bowl needed filling
before taking a dump but before I discovered the little water handle, I was
doing it with the shower hose. That's the way it HAD to be done in my
previous rig because the toilet didn't have a water lever.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Nothing in life is to be feared. It is only to be understood. -Marie Curie
RAMł
news:mrs284tcq2htsmg3c...@4ax.com:
> Perhaps for the first time ever in the history of RORT, I believe
> something that the princess says. If you've ever let even a few drops
> of one of the chick-oriented high foaming detergents get in your
> automatic dishwasher, you'll believe it. Ditto if you've ever let one
> of those fine mist spray nozzles spray into a sink full of Joy.
> Billowing clouds of foam out on the floor.
>
> Yeah, I can visualize bubbles coming out the vent stack after the
> chick gave the tank a good hefty squirt, operating under the old
> theory that "if some is good, more is better".
>
> Funny thing is, suds have absolutely nothing to do with cleaning. The
> sudsing ingredient is added just to keep the house chicks happy. In a
> commercial or industrial setting, suds are a pain in the butt. The
> stuff we used in my restaurant made almost no suds but cut grease many
> times better than the consumer stuff. Only cost about $3 a gallon
> too. Hey, someone's gotta pay for all those detergent commercials
> during the daytime soaps.
>
Simple Green is an old favorite of mine as an "all-purpose"
cleaner/degreaser.
Fuggeddabowda bunch of foaming bubbles, though, 'cause you won't see them.
Since SWMBO likes them she uses "Dawn" in the sink.
"Dawn" dish soap *does* have its place in my "shop", though, as an
ingredient in Superquench. <G>
Bob Giddings
wrote:
>On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 21:42:24 -0400, bill horne <red...@rye.net> wrote:
>
>>nothermark wrote:
>>> We are also learning to use the water only
>>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>>
>>Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
>>intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
>
>The "water only" handle was NOT obvious on my toilet, as it is nested inside
>the flush handle. It WAS intuitively obvious that the bowl needed filling
>before taking a dump but before I discovered the little water handle, I was
>doing it with the shower hose. That's the way it HAD to be done in my
>previous rig because the toilet didn't have a water lever.
>
>John
BTW, when I bought the trailer, I made a little adjustment right
away to my shower, which you may like.
I replaced the showerhead with a multi-spray head intended for
yard use. It has a series of outlets from needle to sweep to
volume flush to gentle sprinkle. It has a grip valve so the only
time it's on is when I'm gripping it. Saves lots of water, makes
cleaning up the shower and the toilet a snap. Also, it's amazing
what a little extra pressure will do for the lower back.
I added enough hose to reach out the door. Makes cleaning off
muddy shoes a cinch. Total cost was under ten bucks.
Bob
Janet Wilder
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 21:42:24 -0400, bill horne <red...@rye.net> wrote:
>
>> nothermark wrote:
>>> We are also learning to use the water only
>>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>
> The "water only" handle was NOT obvious on my toilet, as it is nested inside
> the flush handle. It WAS intuitively obvious that the bowl needed filling
> before taking a dump but before I discovered the little water handle, I was
> doing it with the shower hose. That's the way it HAD to be done in my
> previous rig because the toilet didn't have a water lever.
The china RV toilets we had had a single pedal. You pulled it up to
fill the bowl and pushed it down to flush. To this day,one of us will
get up in the middle of the night and will wiggle a foot looking for
that pedal <g>
bill horne
> On Fri, 18 Jul 2008 21:42:24 -0400, bill horne <red...@rye.net> wrote:
>
>> nothermark wrote:
>>> We are also learning to use the water only
>>> lever to preload flushes according to need. Add some water just
>>> before use and things don't stick to the toilet bowl as much.
>> Good grief. I've done that since my first Porta Potti. It was
>> intuitively obvious. I didn't know it was something that had to be learned.
>
> The "water only" handle was NOT obvious on my toilet, as it is nested inside
> the flush handle. It WAS intuitively obvious that the bowl needed filling
> before taking a dump but before I discovered the little water handle, I was
> doing it with the shower hose. That's the way it HAD to be done in my
> previous rig because the toilet didn't have a water lever.
I wasn't talking about handles - I was saying it's always been obvious
to me that a toilet should have water in it Before you flush it.
Preloaded. I have no opinion on whether it should be added before or
after you crap - only that it's intuitively obvious to me that it should
be there before you flush.
Cliff
"Neon John" <n...@never.com> wrote in message
news:mrs284tcq2htsmg3c...@4ax.com...
Same with Vacuum Cleaners ... the fellow who "Invented" the Kirby vacuum
was a good friend of my father-in-law ... said to him once over a beer, that
vacuums did NOT have to be noisy ... but without the loud whine, the users
did not believe it was cleaning.
Cliff in TN - where even damn shop vacs are loud
--
the Bride said to me, "We've been through a LOT together, and most of it was
Your fault!"
GBinNC
>I have no opinion on whether it should be added before or
>after you crap
To say this as delicately as possible:
It would seem obvious to me -- talking about common sense here -- that a
toilet already filled with water when dumped into could more easily be
kept "clean," and for longer, than one wherein the interior is dry when
dumped into and upon. Gross.
But I may be overestimating the "common" part of "common sense."
GB in NC
Robert Bonomi
I can't decide whether 'no shit?" or "oh, shit!' is more appropriate for
_this_ discussion.