Freon Type?
Richard L. Dillon
conditioner, which needs charging. I need to know what type freon it takes
so I will know where to take it for a charge?
Richard
Harry C.
original charge of refrigerant go to.?
If it has leaked out, then the re-charged refrigerant will also leak out.
The leak location, and condition of a 16 year old unit, could determine
whether the A/C unit is worth putting repair money into it, or not. My
guess is 'Not'.
In answer to your question, the A/C will be charged with R22.
Good luck.
Harry C.
"Richard L. Dillon" <rld...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:qyVc9.37304$FJ1.5...@e3500-atl1.usenetserver.com...
Chris Bryant
It's R-22, but I agree that you would be throwing your money
away to have it recharged. If it is empty, it has a leak, and the new
refrigerant will quickly leak out, and most people do nit charge them
correctly- IMHO, the *only* way to charge is with a scale (they hold
under 1 lb of R-22)- and most guys will not take the time the charge
it properly.
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
Neon John
wrote:
>Richard L. Dillon wrote:
>
>>I just bought a 1986 Sportscoach Pathfinder. It has a Coleman roof air
>>conditioner, which needs charging. I need to know what type freon it takes
>>so I will know where to take it for a charge?
>>
>>Richard
Practically everyone (not you, Chris) has suggested that Richard just toss the
AC because there must be a leak. While I agree that there probably is a leak,
I strongly disagree with tossing the unit. As long as the compressor and
coils are OK, repairing is much cheaper than replacing.
Richard, there is no charging fitting on that unit from the factory. The
system is charged at the process fitting (that little stub of a tube sticking
out the side of the compressor) on the compressor, then crimps and soldered
shut to make a hermetic system. If there IS a charging fitting, then someone
has installed it and that is probably your source of the leak. A lot of
"professionals" (sic) install piercing valves (also known as saddle valves)
which simply clamp over the line and pierce a hole in the tubing. Problem is,
the copper tubing and the pot metal valve body have such differing expansion
rates that the gasketed surface eventually loosens and leaks. I've heard
these things referred to by crooked "professionals" as "service call
generators" for that very reason.
The correct fitting is a silver-soldered in service port. I usually install
the fitting on the process port, though one can cut the suction line and Tee
one in. Many "pros" do this wrong too. There is a shraeder valve in the port
that has rubber or nylon sealing surfaces. The shraeder valve must be removed
and the body itself kept cool while soldering. That's too much trouble for
some jakeleg, er "pros" so they just lay on the heat and the service port
leaks. Another service call generator.
If you're doing this yourself and aren't familiar with the terms, drop me an
email and I'll send you some pictures.
(I shouldn't have to say this but given some of the room temperature IQs of
people in this group.... None of the comments about "pros" in any way
references Chris who IS a pro.)
>
> It's R-22, but I agree that you would be throwing your money
>away to have it recharged. If it is empty, it has a leak, and the new
>refrigerant will quickly leak out, and most people do nit charge them
>correctly- IMHO, the *only* way to charge is with a scale (they hold
>under 1 lb of R-22)- and most guys will not take the time the charge
>it properly.
Of course, a charging cylinder will do the same thing and is handier in many
cases.
Another tip: If the condensing temperature is the same as the system
ordinarily operates at (block the airflow if necessary), one can nail the
charge weight within 5% or better using a mechanic's stethoscopes. Simply
apply the stethoscopes to the metering device (the evap end of the cap tube in
this case) and listen while charging. You'll hear the gas flow sound change
to a gurgling as liquid and vapor bubbles mix, then to the sound of flowing
liquid as the correct charge is reached.
I've checked this against my scales often enough to know that I can nail the
charge dead on if the condensing temperature is normal. If the condenser is
cold (charging in the winter, for example), this will result in over-charging.
For rooftop units (RV and commercial) it's much easier to carry a stethoscopes
and a hunk of cardboard (to block the condenser air flow) than scales, extra
hoses and in my case, a long extension cord for my line-operated scales.
John
---
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://personal.bellsouth.net/~johngd (old)
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/ (new)
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Richard L. Dillon
"Cold" air (40 - 48 deg.
Richard
"Richard L. Dillon" <rld...@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:qyVc9.37304$FJ1.5...@e3500-atl1.usenetserver.com...
David Osborn
>>Richard L. Dillon wrote:
>>
>>>I just bought a 1986 Sportscoach Pathfinder. It has a Coleman roof air
>>>conditioner, which needs charging. I need to know what type freon it takes
>>>so I will know where to take it for a charge?
>>>
>>>Richard
>Practically everyone (not you, Chris) has suggested that Richard just toss
>the
>AC because there must be a leak. While I agree that there probably is a leak,
>I strongly disagree with tossing the unit. As long as the compressor and
>coils are OK, repairing is much cheaper than replacing.
That depends. If one has to pay typical shop rates to repair the unit, then
the "repair" cost may be a significant percentage of the cost of a new unit.
Morever, note what John pointed out when he wrote:
>A lot of
>"professionals" (sic) install piercing valves (also known as saddle valves)
>which simply clamp over the line and pierce a hole in the tubing. Problem
>is,
>the copper tubing and the pot metal valve body have such differing expansion
>rates that the gasketed surface eventually loosens and leaks. I've heard
>these things referred to by crooked "professionals" as "service call
>generators" for that very reason.
If the unit in question is 16 years old, then a new unit from
http://www.camperschoice.com for less than $500 (including shipping to one's
home) very well could be the better choice -- and provide far more efficient
cooling.
It sometimes makes sense to risk "throwing good money after bad," but it's
quite frequently a bad gamble!
--
David, N8DO; FMCA 147762
djosborn at aol dot com
Chris Bryant
>Thanks to all who replied. The A/C is blowing "cool" air (62 deg.) but not
>"Cold" air (40 - 48 deg.
>
>Richard
62° air might be just right- if the air going in to the return
is 80-90° then nothing is wrong (the air conditioner will cool the air
~20°- more if the air is dry, less if it is humid).