Pace Arrow 6V Battery Wiring for 12V System
martyw...@juno.com
information on the Coach battery wiring on a Pace Arrow Vision. The
old
batteries that were taken out were so cheap that they didn't even have
markings for plus (+) or minus (-) (but it could be measured with a
meter upon
removal - which I did - but wished I had the real info from Fleetwood
to make sure). I couldn't believe my eyes! So, I contacted Fleetwood
for a schematic.
That didn't provide the answer either (I asked for a Ford 460 wiring
diagram - they gave me a Chevy chassis schematic). So, after some
continuity testing with the wiring harness, I figured it out myself and
the wiring I did worked great. I decided to post it here for anyone to
access later on. This is the wiring for two 6V Deep Cycle (Golf Cart)
batteries on some Pace Arrow Vision models.
DISCLAMIER: This information worked for the 1994 Pace Arrow Vision I
own with the Ford 460, I would expect that it will work for anyone
else. But you use this info at your own risk and I assume no
responsibility for the accuracy of the info or the results you get
with your hookup. Use this info at your own risk.
I should also mention that I did this wiring when it was about 15
degrees outside, so the wiring was so stiff it took a lot of effort to
get it to behave right..! The wiring is pretty heavy and will be
somewhat stiff anyway, but it's even more stubborn when it's that cold
outside.
Nuff said on that....
I tried several places to buy batteries - Sears, Autozone, Thiessens (a
local farming supply place) and Walmart. All had 6V batteries (except
Walmart), but they were not Deep Cycle batteries. They were either too
small (current rating) or too large (in size - especially for tractors,
they have incredibly weird sized batteries). I finally found
Interstate Battery to be the source for my 6V batteries. They have one
on the shelf that's called a 'Workaholic' battery that proved to be
right in all ways - size, current rating and voltage (6V). So I bought
a pair of them at $73.00/battery and hauled them home. If you have
another source for 6V batteries that are cheaper/better - go for that.
The 1994 Pace Arrow Vision that I own has a Ford 460 (Ford chassis one
would assume - I'm not 100% positive on that). In this chassis
configuration, there are two 6V Deep Cycle ('Golf Cart') batteries
located under the hood in the front of the RV. When you are positioned
in front of the vehicle with the hood openyou'll actually see theree
batteries - the one furthest to the left is for the Ford engine battery
(A.K.A 'Main' battery) and then below this and to the right of the
engine's battery are the two 6V Coach batteries sitting side-by-side.
Both are held in place with a battery case frame and a hold-down brace
on top (mine has a couple of 'all-thread' rods that hold the top brace
to the battery case frame).
When you get ready to remove the old batteries, you may have to remove
the
two bolts that hold the overflow resevoir and lift it out of place for
the moment for the removal and install of the batteries.
Before you begin the wiring, remove the old batteries (mark the
terminals, too,
if you're lucky enough to have batteries that have markings - mine
didn't). Replace both batteries with the new ones and make sure you
have all the battery frame hardware installed prior to wiring. Once
that's done - you're ready to wire the batteries to the Pace Arrow
Coach.
It's important to note that of the two 6V batteries, the one on the
left (which is partiallyunderneath the 'Main' battery) has a negative
terminal with three leads coming off of it. One of the leads is
connected to the Main battery's negative terminal, one lead is
connected to a common 'frame' connection on the Ford chassis and the
final one is connected to the Coach's charging system. When
re-connecting, make sure all terminals are scrubbed clean prior to
installation - then connect them and tighten the nut to the terminal.
The positive side of that same (left-most) battery is series connected
to the other right-most battery's negative terminal (making the two 6V
batteries into a 12V set). You'll find the cable that is connected
between the two by a simple continuity test with an Ohm-Meter. Series
connect these batteries the way I just described. Finally, there is
only one lead left and this connects to the right-most battery's
positive terminal. Before you connect it, do a quick voltage check
from the frame of the vehicle to the right-most battery's positive
terminal. It should read 12VDC (+/- 0.50 V). If it does, connect the
final lead to the positive terminal of the right-most battery. If it
doesn't, check to make sure you have frame applied to the lead of the
Voltmeter. If you read anything other than 12VDC (+/- 0.50V) then stop
everything and check your connections.
Assuming that the voltage test was good and you've connected the final
wire, double-check your connections to the batteries and tighten all
connections without stripping the connecting bolt (theyare often made
of softer metal). When all connections are tight, then do a final
voltage check from frame to the postive terminal of the right-most
battery. Should read 12VDC (+/- 0.50V).
At this point, close the hood - you're done. Now, go to the Coach's
battery disconnect switch and toggle the battey switches to activate
the Coach 12V power. You should now have all your 12Vappliances and
lights.
