No Rear Left Turn Signals 2000 Ford F350
Dennis
The running lights are working so I must have a good ground.
The right turn signals and 4-ways work okay.
The front left turn signal works okay (flashes fast).
The bulbs look and test good.
I used a multi-meter on the taillight wires inside the body and cannot
get any reaction.
They stopped working last year when towing a car dolly.
Where do I look next?
Thanks,
Dennis
Lon VanOstran
I would run a fresh wire from your flasher to the tail light assembly.
It's too much trouble trying to find a short.
We usually start with a fresh ground, but if the rest of your lights
work on that corner, it's unlikely to be a ground problem.
Lone Haranguer
> 2000 Coachman on a 2000 Ford 350. No left rear turn signals or 4-ways.
>
> The running lights are working so I must have a good ground.
Just for the halibut, run a separate test wire ground to the actual bulb socket.
LZ
Ralph
> 2000 Coachman on a 2000 Ford 350. No left rear turn signals or 4-ways.
>
> The running lights are working so I must have a good ground.
>
> The right turn signals and 4-ways work okay.
>
> The front left turn signal works okay (flashes fast).
>
causes the flasher to blink fast.
I'd guess Lon is right, an open.
That assumes the left light is a dual element, don't count on it
without checking,
Lee
contact cleaner and sprayed it on the connections and where the
lines were tied together and then some electrical grease and it
cured my problem. Crap builds up in those connectors. Just
unscrew them and spray the bare copper wire and put the grease
or whatever it is called and it will protect them in the future.
Good luck!
Dennis wrote:
> They stopped working last year when towing a car dolly.
>
> Where do I look next?
--
Lee (in Florida)US Army Retired
Georgie Boy Cruise Master
Logitech VidCam & Skype lee.g.bray
Dennis
>
> - Show quoted text -
That's not what I wanted you guys to tell me. I wanted you to say it's
a fuse and here's where it's located.
Oh well, I'm off to buy a 30 foot roll of wire.
Thanks
nothermark
follow the wire bundle back through the chassis looking for a
cut/chafe in the bundle or a bad conector pin.
I would probably give it a cursory look going back and try the each
connector where I could unplug and test for a voltage at the conector
pin on the bundle going toward the front. At some point you should
find a voltage with the blinkers on.
Assuming you find a voltage you can judge how to make a repair by
either ttrying to get a harness part or splicing in a new wire.
Lone Haranguer
Sometimes a little scraping of the socket and contact point of the bulb is all
it takes. Moisture can cause crap to form that acts as an insulator.
LZ
Theophilus
Seeing as how everything is "plug & Play" check the wiring under the
truck. Look where the pickup bed plugs into the cab.....
Hank
Just because the other lights have a ground, doesn't mean that light
has a ground. Most electrical problems (12 volt) are bad grounds. If
you're sure the bulb is ok, then it's probably not grounded.
Hank
Tom J
And the way you get that bulb grounded is to clean the contact points of the
bulb and the bulb socket, plus make sure the ground is still floating - has
spring action - try the bulb from the other side that you know is working.
My bet is, the problem is right there in the tail light fixture.
Tom J
Ralph
>
> Just because the other lights have a ground, doesn't mean that light
> has a ground. Most electrical problems (12 volt) are bad grounds. If
> you're sure the bulb is ok, then it's probably not grounded.
>
Ah, Hank, the OP noted the running light works on that corner.
Commonly those running light and brake/turn light are in the same
bulb, so if the running light lights, the ground is certainly good
My guess is the power wire broke, someplace, maybe the tow-dolly
took it out
Steve Barker
Look in the underhood power center. There are seperate fuses for the
TRAILER rear, left and right turn bulbs. It's possible they wired the
regular taillamp/ts to the trailer portion of the harness. Just a thought.
--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email
Robert Bonomi
Have it your way --
It's a fuse.
The 30' long one connecting the flasher with the tail light assembly.
*Grin*
There is one thing to look at. if you had to put in crimp-on taps for
getting lighting to what wa being towed. check -those- connectors, it's
quite possible you've got a wire break right there.
Robert Bonomi
Of course such crud will -not- extend to causing 'no twitch' on th multimeter
when it is applied to the _wiring_
Aside from that small bit of reality from the OPs report, good idea.