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Mounting a TV

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JKConey

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Jul 19, 2012, 8:07:35 AM7/19/12
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In my Coleman trailer there is a designated location above a cabinet
that will fit up to a 32" TV. There's a 4" sticker that reads "LCD TV
BRACKET HERE". The wall board there is hollow, so I am concerned the
weight will rip it right off the wall. I want to use an articulated
bracket because the outlet and jack is directly behind where the TV will
go, so I'll need to be able to move it out a bit now and then. When I
emailed Coleman about his, they said to mount it right at the sticker.
Something about a metal sheet behind it? Does this seem right? In a
normal installation, I'd be looking for a beam. I think I'd also need
some kind of flexible strap as well to keep it from sliding out while
traveling. I have an older 26" TV that's 32 lbs. The newer 32" models
are as light as 15lbs. Coleman has no opinion as to size and weight
limits. What do you think? Thanks!

--
JK Sinrod
www.MyConeyIslandMemories.com
www.facebook.com/MyConeyIslandMemories

Technobarbarian

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Jul 19, 2012, 10:13:05 AM7/19/12
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"JKConey" <TheConey...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ju8ta4$70n$1...@dont-email.me...
It sounds like this was intended for a flush mount installation. If you
need an articulated bracket I think I'd start by installing the bracket and
looking at how much I could flex the wall by putting some weight on it. If
it bends much I'd consider reinforcing that section of the wall with a piece
of plywood with a decorative veneer. You might want to think about
installing a lighter TV.

From what you describe it sounds like you could also do a flush mount
installation if you connect the hookups to the TV first and then slide the
TV onto the wall bracket. The flush mount brackets that I've seen were made
in two parts. One part that fastens to the wall and another that fastens to
the TV. The two parts slide together and a bolt or two insures that they
stay together.

TB

nothermark

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Jul 19, 2012, 11:26:22 AM7/19/12
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I think they put an aluminum or steel plate in that area similar to
what they do with ski's. When the bracket is properly installled it
acts as a reinforcement to keep the bracket from pulling though the
paneling.

I would ask two things.

1. Do they say you can use a swing mount?

2. What kind of screws do they reccomend?

I would think the answer on the latter is sheet metal and to pre drill
tihe a body dia drill bit so they tap the panel and the metal
reinforcement.

I would also look at adding a narrow shelf the TV rested on when
traveliing and anchor points for a couple of bungee cords to keep it
pulled back. I like bungee's for that as they keep continuous
pressure the most strap systems do not. You also want an abrasion
buffer. A plastic trash bag usually will do it.

In a unit that size I would doa 20 or 22 in and save the bouncy
weight. the sight line is probably not that long.

All this is YMMV, and priobably will. ;-)

Tom J

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Jul 19, 2012, 12:14:45 PM7/19/12
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I have a padded top raised plywood bar across the top of the shelf that the
TV sits on when the wall mount is retracted. I use a bungee cord to hold it
retracted when traveling, plus tightening the locking screw on the bracket.
Over 20,000 miles with this setup with no problem. Now, if the factory said
mount it where the label is on the wall, that's what I would do. If it comes
loose they should cover the repair cost.

Tom J


JKConey

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Jul 19, 2012, 1:11:55 PM7/19/12
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Do these RV walls have traditional beams in them? I can feel a
nice firm area that I could screw into, IF it was a beam? I do think
you're right and that I will need to go with a smaller TV and a flush
mount. Or forget the articulating bracket idea altogether:

Here's a picture:

myconeyislandmemories.com\ebay\TV spot.jpg

The spot is above a mirrored cabinet at the far end, and the bed
on the other, so I wanted as big a screen as I could get. What about
velcro-ing it on the shelf and somehow tightly restraining it to the
wall when traveling? I still need to get behind it, to reach an elect
and 12 volt jack, plus the antenna/cable switch I use when I use the
radio. I want as permanent a solution as I can get. Any ideas would be
appreciated.

JKConey

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Jul 19, 2012, 2:31:42 PM7/19/12
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On 7/19/2012 1:11 PM, JKConey wrote:




> www.myconeyislandmemories.com\ebay\TV spot.jpg

Technobarbarian

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Jul 19, 2012, 3:11:15 PM7/19/12
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"JKConey" <TheConey...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ju9f4o$m0o$1...@dont-email.me...
Some do, but looking at that rig it's more likely you have a metal
stud. If you drill a small hole you should be able to tell what you have
from the feel of it. Even with a metal stud you could still drive a screw
into it. It would be easier to do with a pilot hole anyway. From what you
say my guess would be that the metal plate the factory described is attached
to the stud which would give you plenty of support as long as you aren't
driving around with the arm extended.

TB

TB

Ron

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Jul 19, 2012, 10:30:32 AM7/19/12
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"JKConey" wrote in message news:ju8ta4$70n$1...@dont-email.me...
++++++++++++
I think I would follow Coleman's instructions! They did the engineering and
construction and know what is where and how much it can support. We have
four TVs (two 40" and two 32") that are wall mounted with two of them on
articulated arms. The articulated arm brackets have magnets that hold the
TV and arm in the folded back against the wall position. We haven't had
either of the articulated arms come out during travel One of our 5th wheel
trailers had one LCD TV on an articulated arm and that arm used a pin to
hold it in folded flat position. That arrangement was a pain to use as the
pin was on the back side of the TV and it wasn't real easy to pull it and
insert it. The magnets we have now are a much better solution!

Ron
+++++++++++

Max

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Jul 19, 2012, 8:47:54 PM7/19/12
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On 7/19/2012 11:11 AM, JKConey wrote:

>
> Do these RV walls have traditional beams in them? I can feel a
> nice firm area that I could screw into, IF it was a beam? I do think
> you're right and that I will need to go with a smaller TV and a flush
> mount. Or forget the articulating bracket idea altogether:
>
> Here's a picture:

The walls "should" have aluminum "studs". (if Coleman is half way
serious about keeping weight down)
Whatever, a stud finder (available and inexpensive at most any hardware
store) will pinpoint where the "studs" are.

Janet Wilder

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Jul 20, 2012, 12:03:00 AM7/20/12
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You could use Thumb Locks. They are made by 3M. Pulled this one up
first on Google:

<http://www.secureitconsultants.com/store/ad_fasteners.html>

They really work quite well (except when you roll your trailer :-))

--
Janet Wilder
Way-the-heck-south Texas
Spelling doesn't count. Cooking does.


JKConey

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Jul 20, 2012, 2:43:21 AM7/20/12
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On 7/20/2012 12:03 AM, Janet Wilder wrote:
>
>
> <http://www.secureitconsultants.com/store/ad_fasteners.html>
>
> They really work quite well (except when you roll your trailer :-))


Don't even say that jokingly.... I'm nervous enough now. Looks
like a great find. It's interesting how many different products go by
that name, but adding thumb lock STRAPS does the trick. Thanks!

Tom J

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Jul 19, 2012, 8:59:17 PM7/19/12
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I have searched for exact wall construction in the Coleman line. Duchman
don't seem to give out that information?? If you want to know what the stud
construction really is, call Dutchman and ask them - don't ask the dealer!!

Tom J


Janet Wilder

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Jul 20, 2012, 4:12:12 PM7/20/12
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On 7/20/2012 1:43 AM, JKConey wrote:
> On 7/20/2012 12:03 AM, Janet Wilder wrote:
>>
>>
>> <http://www.secureitconsultants.com/store/ad_fasteners.html>
>>
>> They really work quite well (except when you roll your trailer :-))
>
>
> Don't even say that jokingly.... I'm nervous enough now. Looks
> like a great find. It's interesting how many different products go by
> that name, but adding thumb lock STRAPS does the trick. Thanks!
>
>

In 2005, we hit an oil slick on wet pavement and hydroplaned. Rolled the
fifth wheel and Freightliner RV hauler. The evidence showed that the
trailer had fishtailed badly and tipped from side to side before landing
on its left side. We walked away.

The bedroom TV was held down with Thumb locks. It got tossed, however
the printer was on a shelf in the living room, also held with thumb
locks, and it did not move at all.

My reference to rolling a trailer had nothing to do with you, JK

JKConey

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Jul 21, 2012, 12:14:41 AM7/21/12
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Tried that and all I got was what I posted about mounting at the
sticker. I wonder if Coleman knows, since someone else is doing the
building for them.

nothermark

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Jul 21, 2012, 8:14:01 AM7/21/12
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The paneling is probably glued to the studs and that area has a box of
whatever they use for studs around it. That provides a relatively
stiff spot. The next problem is pull strength for the screws. To
address that the idea is to put a sheet of something like aluminum or
soft iron over the spot. Holes are drilled with a body dia drill bit
for sheet metal type screws with a continouse same dia thread. They
self tap as they are inserted. It is usually best to insert them with
a power tool. I have seen a similar arrangement to mount ski bindings
and read about doing it in custom aircraft.

Tom J

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Jul 21, 2012, 11:33:45 AM7/21/12
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Noone at Coleman would have a clue. Coleman has never built an RV!! They are
not being built for Coleman!!They license the name. Fleetwood built them for
many years as pop-ups. I forget who held the license before that.

Tom J


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