converting an rv furnace from LP to nat gas?
Keith Stelter
site in a campground. The campground has Natural Gas available at the sites.
I'm wondering if I can convert my Suburban RV furnace from LP to natural
gas?
I can convert the fridge or run it on 110v. Same with the water heater. I
can change the orifice in the stove for natural gas. The only thing left is
the furnace.
Anyone ever try this or know if it is possible?
Thanks!
Keith
Mike Miller
to convert from LP to NG. I suspect it should be the same for RV
appliances but I would check with the dealer or manufacturer.
Mike
Keith Stelter
Some of the other manufacturers were pretty open about doing the swap.
But Suburban hasn't replied yet.
Thanks!
Keith
"Mike Miller" <mcu...@ftml.net> wrote in message
news:MPG.17d29bca7...@news.prodigy.net...
Chris Bryant
There is only one Suburban currently available which is
officially field convertible to Natural Gas- that's the P-40. The two
things that need changing are the orifice (obviously) and the gas
valve- simply because there is a regulator in the gas valve that needs
to be changed for the different pressures.
If your valve is a conversable one, or if you can get a
conversable version, you should be fine (it's possible that the valve
would work fine as is- but I would at least have another regulator
inline right before the furnace).
--
Chris Bryant
Bryant RV Services- http://www.bryantrv.com
Keith Stelter
I don't want to end up spending hundreds of dollars doing a conversion.
It's not really a big deal, and I can leave the furnace hooked up to LP.
I just wondered if I could get away with changing a $20.00 orifice and get
it working on natural gas and could avoid splitting up the existing
plumbing.
Keith.
"Chris Bryant" <Bryan...@cfl.rr.com> wrote in message
news:ugphmu4e36c568163...@4ax.com...
Chris Bryant
>Thanks for the info!!
>I don't want to end up spending hundreds of dollars doing a conversion.
>It's not really a big deal, and I can leave the furnace hooked up to LP.
>I just wondered if I could get away with changing a $20.00 orifice and get
>it working on natural gas and could avoid splitting up the existing
>plumbing.
>Keith.
Do talk to the installer, though (who hooks you up to NG). It
might well be that the regulator in the furnace valve isn't necessary
(it is basically a redundant "overpressure" regulator, in case the
main one fails). If this is the case, a simple orifice change would be
all it takes (but being unfamiliar with NG, I would hesitate to
recommend it).
Marc
Some facts stated here are true :
Yes - there are diffrent orifices for Natural gas then propane
Fact - Natural gas appliances usually run at a lower pressure 3.5" as oppossed
to 11" or so for propane.
Fact - ( at least with residential equipment - not 100% positive about rv) Most
gas valves are set either for 1 gas or the other & are not intended to be
switched between gasses - exceptions would be stoves & clothes dryers - which
are appliances that can be 'moved'.
Fact - Air shutters ( if equipped ) will have to be reset for the fuel switch
too.
For safety - this is 1 operation best left to a pro.
Marc - heating service tech
Neon John
>THIS IS NOT A DO IT YOURSELF JOB !
>
>Some facts stated here are true :
>
>Yes - there are diffrent orifices for Natural gas then propane
>
>Fact - Natural gas appliances usually run at a lower pressure 3.5" as oppossed
>to 11" or so for propane.
6.0" h2o for natural gas and 11" for propane
>
>Fact - ( at least with residential equipment - not 100% positive about rv) Most
>gas valves are set either for 1 gas or the other & are not intended to be
>switched between gasses - exceptions would be stoves & clothes dryers - which
>are appliances that can be 'moved'.
Nope. I've never run into a residential or commercial appliance that could
not be easily moved - and I've done dozens, probably hundreds. Many, like
stoves have adjustable orifices and regulators. Others require conversion
kits available from the mfr. The kit typically contains a new (set of)
orifice, a new spring for the internal regulator or a spring spacer and a new
label.
>
>Fact - Air shutters ( if equipped ) will have to be reset for the fuel switch
>too.
BFD. 30 second job.
>
>For safety - this is 1 operation best left to a pro.
This post is an example of why "pros" (defined as anyone who straps on a work
uniform with his name over his pocket) get it wrong as often as not.
The reason why converting an RV furnace from propane to NG is very simple -
the appliance is approved only for use in RVs and RVs use propane. Since
there is no market for a natural gas conversion, the kits are not available in
most cases.
Now one CAN do the conversion manually. I've done several. This involves
retuning the built-in regulator, if it exists, by changing springs or removing
spacers as the case may be, and drilling the orifice. A set of orifice drills
and reamers are necessary - probably available from MSC or whatnot. I've had
mine so long I forget where I got 'em.
The procedure is fairly simple - ream the orifice until the blue flame with
the proper A/F mix is approximately the same height as it was on propane.
It's easy to go too far. The fire will burn OK but there is a risk of burning
out the heat exchanger or exceeding the surface temperature spec for the
furnace. If you go too far, simply solder or epoxy up the orifice hole and
start again.
This works best with pilotless ignition systems, as the tiny pilot orifice is
effectively impossible to drill. A new NG pilot assembly could be purchased
and installed.
Frankly, for an RV I wouldn't fool with all this trouble. I'd either install
an external mobile home furnace/AC or use nonvented gas or electric heaters.
A small mobile home AC/furnace is probably the best solution.
John
---
John De Armond
johngdDO...@bellsouth.net
http://personal.bellsouth.net/~johngd (old)
http://bellsouthpwp.net/j/o/johngd/ (new)
Cleveland, Occupied TN
Marc
it's not safe too.
I am reasonably sure that camper furnaces are not intended or approved to
run on natural gas. This may not seem like a issue, but in the event that
something were to happen, it would be enough of a excuse for a insurance
company not to pay out.
Drilling of orifices is no longer advised. Only the correct orifices should
be used. Drilling them will affect the way the gas leaves the orifice & can
cause abnormal mixing of the air/fuel ratio - as accuate CO / CO2 test
instruments will attest too. Orifice 'drills' are intended to check the sizing
of the orifice to make sure it's in spec.
I am not sure about the 'park model' type of furnaces , but seeing where they
run on standard voltages, and the fact they are going in trailers that are
intended to be stationary, rather then mobile, they may be more suitable for
running on Natural gas.
As I said earlier - but maybe not clearly - most residential appliances (
meaning stoves/ovens , clothes dryers) have the potential for being moved from
house to house with the residents, so most of them have the ability to be
converted easily back & forth between natural gas & propane without additional
parts - usualy just adjustments. Hot water heaters, & central heating
equipment on the other hand are intended to be installed once, and left there
throught thier' life, so in most cases they have to be ordered for the intended
fuel, and in many cases can not easily converted. On equipment with modern
electronics, there are differnt requirements for natural gas & propane.
I may be on the side of cautious, but I know that being the last person to
work on the unit makes me liable for any personal injury that may result from
me taking short cuts, or doing unapproved modifications to the unit. How some
people can do some of the things they do is beyond me.
I have been servicing heating equipment for 18+ years ( for oil ) , along
with 3 years for gas. I never had any claims of property damage, or personal
injury from work I have done - so I must be doing something right.
I am fully state licensed for both oil & gas service, along with being
certified for carbon monoxide detection & prevention. And yes - I am leagally
allowed to shut down anything I feel is unsafe - even if it is freezing out.
Is your life worth the few $$$ saved by taking short cuts ?
