Dometic RM2652 thermister question.
Ben Hogland
left the refrigerator portion with temps in the teens. The thermister
measured fine so today I replaced the circuit board with a Dinosaur
P-711 (non-OEM). I have no idea if it fixed the problem yet since it
will take a day to see how cool it gets.
My thermister was just sitting on the side towards the cooling fins in
the refrigerator part. I know others have mentioned being able to slide
the thermister up and down on a fin to set the desired temp. My question
is, in the plastic mount, should the head of the thermister be visible
or should it be covered by the plastic shroud. If someone has a picture
or a good description as to how their Dometic thermister is mounted, it
would be helpful. i.e., does the yellow body of the thermister need to
be physically touching a metal fin? Is the yellow thermister suppose to
be visible on top, or bottom of the plastic shroud? A picture would be
ideal but can't find anything on the net. The place I bought the board
from didn't seem to think it mattered much where it was in the refrig. I
find that hard to believe but could be true.
Thanks.
Ben
--
Home Page: www.rvlover.net
Kevin W. Miller
news:44i5vkF...@individual.net
I don't have an answer and maybe it won't help any but have you looked at
Chris Bryant's website to see if there's a manual there for your fridge?
Kevin W. Miller
Ben Hogland
news:VLudndCqzauWe37e...@giganews.com...
>
> I don't have an answer and maybe it won't help any but have you looked
> at Chris Bryant's website to see if there's a manual there for your
> fridge?
Yes there is and I downloaded it and printed it out (thanks, Chris, if
you read this). Still no description of where the thermister should be
in the manual. It just has troubleshooting info and assumes the
placement is already correct..
Ben
Kevin W. Miller
I'll check which model I have as quick as I get home and see if that'll be
any help.
Kevin W. Miller
Ben Hogland
> I'll check which model I have as quick as I get home and see if
> that'll be any help.
If yours has a yellow thermister that needs to be slid to adjust the
temp (no temp control on the eyebrow), it will help even if it's not the
exact model. If that is the case, I would be grateful for a picture of
how it's mounted.
Thanks,
Ben
JIMinFL
is attached about 2/3 from the bottom.
The bottom of the clip is about 1 inch from the bottom of the fin. The
thermister is held in close proximity to the fin but is not touching it. If
your clip is missing, where did it go?
Jimnews:44i5vkF...@individual.net...
William Boyd
I have the RM2652 dont know that much about it but can describe the
thermister; It is at the end of a wire/tube comming up to the outside of
the last fin on the right side as you look in the box. The thin sheet of
plastic is formed so as to clip on the front edge of the fin. The rear
part of the plastic has a curl in it to hold it away from the fin. This
appears to form a pocket area for the thermister to suspend up in, held
up by the tube/wire. nothing appears to hold it in place, it just sets
there in the small open area under the plastic. I can see where you
could slide the piece of plastic up or down maybe exposing part of the
thermster. Would be like sliding the cover off of it so as to cause the
cooling system to operate more to insure the device is at the cool temp
calibrated for.
--
Bill P.
just
Dog
&
ME
At this time in life all that
remains is left overs, some can
be cherished as good others bad,
but the only definite is that they
are all that remains, main course is
over.
Ben Hogland
news:OnTEf.12076$vU2....@newsread3.news.atl.earthlink.net...
> Mine has a white clip that is about 4 inches long and the sensor
> thermistor is attached about 2/3 from the bottom.
> The bottom of the clip is about 1 inch from the bottom of the fin.
> The thermister is held in close proximity to the fin but is not
> touching it. If your clip is missing, where did it go?
> Jim
Hi Jim,
I got the clip and it is what I referred to as the shroud. I guess I
didn't describe it well. However, the thermister was not installed into
it and the clip was put below the top rack clipped onto the rack itself.
I don't know how it got this way. So you are saying the thermister
itself is enclosed in the clip part so you can only see the wire coming
out of the clip? i.e., one part of the clips attaches to fin of refer,
other clip part the thermister is contained within about 3 inches down
from the top (of the clip) ? Is that correct?
Thanks Jim,
Ben
Ben Hogland
"William Boyd" <willi...@cableone.net> wrote in message
news:44ihspF...@individual.net...
> I have the RM2652 dont know that much about it but can describe the
> thermister; It is at the end of a wire/tube comming up to the outside
> of the last fin on the right side as you look in the box. The thin
> sheet of plastic is formed so as to clip on the front edge of the fin.
> The rear part of the plastic has a curl in it to hold it away from the
> fin. This appears to form a pocket area for the thermister to suspend
> up in, held up by the tube/wire. nothing appears to hold it in place,
> it just sets there in the small open area under the plastic. I can see
> where you could slide the piece of plastic up or down maybe exposing
> part of the thermster. Would be like sliding the cover off of it so as
> to cause the cooling system to operate more to insure the device is at
> the cool temp calibrated for.
Alright, Bill; good description and thanks. So you are saying the
thermister is enclosed in the clip. Seems Jim was saying that too. Maybe
mid clip length to 3 inches down or can't you really tell other than
knowing you can't see the thermister itself?
I'm not sure why the manual doesn't detail this aspect at all.
Thanks,
Ben
William Boyd
I would venture to say it makes no difference where the clip is located
at on the fin. Just that the clip provides an area that allows the
thermister to, so to speak hug the fin and prevent the air around it
from escaping readily. The cooling device will operate as long as it
takes to get the thermister producing the voltage it is calibrated for.
That is the reason your cooling unit was freezing your food.
Hope this helps. But as they say I dont know any thing about what I talk
about. ;-)
Ben Hogland
Thanks Bill, but I was more curious about where specifically your
thermister is within the bracket (clip). BTW, A thermister is not like a
thermocouple; i.e., it doesn't produce a voltage. It works by changing
it's resistance depending on the temp. The circuit board measures the
resistance and adjusts accordingly.
Thanks,
Ben
JIMinFL
I was told that the box temperature was adjusted by moving the thermister up
or down on the fin.
It makes sense that Ben's problem of the box getting much too cold was
because the thermister wasn't close enough to the fin.
Jimnews:44ijj3F...@individual.net...
Ben Hogland
> Ben and William,
> I was told that the box temperature was adjusted by moving the
> thermister up or down on the fin.
> It makes sense that Ben's problem of the box getting much too cold was
> because the thermister wasn't close enough to the fin.
> Jim
Hi Jim, I'd buy that if it were plus or minus 10 degrees but my issue
was that the refrigerator was frozen solid and in the teens. I didn't
change the position of my thermister. It worked fine for years where it
was, however maybe a bit cold. Since I like my milk near freezing, no
problem, but then on the last couple trips about the 2nd or 3rd day, it
would freeze solid in the frig. Rock solid.
Anyway, I know my thermister was not mounted correctly but I do believe
something else was/is wrong with my refrig. I'm hoping it was the board
since I just replaced it. In the mean time, I just want to make sure I
have the thermister mounted per spec to eliminate that as being any
reason at all for it not being the correct temp.
Thanks,
Ben
William Boyd
OK What ever you say call it resistance does what I said and it is
located mid way under the center of the shield.
Ben Hogland
> OK What ever you say call it resistance does what I said and it is
> located mid way under the center of the shield.
Midway under the shield (clip). Thanks Bill. I appreciate the info.
Ben
William Boyd
> Ben and William,
> I was told that the box temperature was adjusted by moving the thermister up
> or down on the fin.
> It makes sense that Ben's problem of the box getting much too cold was
> because the thermister wasn't close enough to the fin.
> Jim
I dont think it was any where close to the fin and as I understand the
shield was not on the fin either. Bet that new part he bought will work
just like the one he swapped out. Got a spare now.
;-)
BILL P.
Ben Hogland
>
> I dont think it was any where close to the fin and as I understand the
> shield was not on the fin either. Bet that new part he bought will
> work just like the one he swapped out. Got a spare now.
>
> ;-)
>
> BILL P.
Oh, I also bought a new thermister but reluctant to put it in because it
looks like a bitch to get out than in. ;-)
Honestly, my thermister was in the same place for years. It may not have
been installed per spec, but where it was installed wasn't the cause of
the freezing of the refrigerator in the teens unless somehow all of a
sudden the placement of the thermister mattered more two years after it
being misplaced. <g>
I'm hoping I bought the thermister for no reason since it was the
cheapest. it may be cheap but, like I said, a bitch to replace.
Thanks again for the info on your thermister placement. I appreciate it.
Ben
Ben Hogland
> Mine has a white clip that is about 4 inches long and the sensor
> thermistor is attached about 2/3 from the bottom.
> The bottom of the clip is about 1 inch from the bottom of the fin.
> The thermister is held in close proximity to the fin but is not
> touching it. If your clip is missing, where did it go?
> Jim
Jim, is colder sliding up or down on the fin, do you know? I would think
up would be a warmer fin thus colder temp but it feels colder on the
upper fin part so maybe it's down that's colder refrig temp?
I just turned the new board down to the lowest temp. Unlike the old
board, this board has an adjustment to lower or raise temp too. The
flame wasn't on until I adjusted it lower so I know it was at the
regulation temp which was too high. hell, the freezer was just below
freezing.
Thanks,
Ben
RVer Don
>
> Jim, is colder sliding up or down on the fin, do you know? I would think
> up would be a warmer fin thus colder temp but it feels colder on the upper
> fin part so maybe it's down that's colder refrig temp?
I have been told that up (north) is colder and down (south) is warmer.
However when I had a problem recently with the temperature being too cold
moving the slider either way did nothing to change the temperature. I then
moved the setting on the front from 3 to 2 and the temperature went up about
three or four degrees.
Don in Tracy, Calif.
Kevin W. Miller
Ben Hogland <benho...@hotmail.com> typed:
Ours is a Norcold and does have a temp adjustment on the outside. The
thermistor is mounted on a clip on one of the center fins. The thermistor is
black and about an inch long and the top of the clip is about 1/2 inch or so
down from the top of the fin.
--
Kevin W. Miller
JIMinFL
>
> Jim, is colder sliding up or down on the fin, do you know? I would think
> up would be a warmer fin thus colder temp but it feels colder on the upper
> fin part so maybe it's down that's colder refrig temp?
>
> I just turned the new board down to the lowest temp. Unlike the old board,
> this board has an adjustment to lower or raise temp too. The flame wasn't
> on until I adjusted it lower so I know it was at the regulation temp which
> was too high. hell, the freezer was just below freezing.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ben
>
warmer. If your go the wrong way, you will know within a day.
Have you been monitoring the temps with an indoor/outdoor thermometer?
Jim
Jim
Ben Hogland
>>
> I don't know which way to move it. Move it in the direction you think
> feels warmer. If your go the wrong way, you will know within a day.
> Have you been monitoring the temps with an indoor/outdoor thermometer?
> Jim
Hi Jim,
Yes, I have a thermometer in the freezer and the refrig. This morning it
was only 37 in the refrig and 32 in the freezer even though the temp
control on the new board was moved to coldest setting last night. That
was with the clip towards the middle of the fin. My memory, being jogged
a bit, I now recall why the thermister was not on the fin. That was
because I couldn't get the refrig cold enough so I moved it several
years back which made the temp just right. I hadn't touch the thermister
since then and it's been in the same place.
So anyway, I decided to replace the thermister today. It wasn't as hard
as I thought it was going to be. I simply cut off the old connector on
the board side and taped the new thermister to it then pulled it through
from the inside of the refrig slowly. I was thinking I might have to
pull out the refrig to get to the hole since it's out of reach. Worked
great fishing it with the existing wire. Now to see if my refrig works
like it should with the thermister clip on the fin. I'll wait until
tomorrow morn to check again.
Incidentally, the new Dinosaur board turns power off to the refrig light
when the refrig button is turned off, unlike the original board. i.e.,
my original OEM board always would turn on the light if the door was
opened even if in off mode. This board works like the OEM board should
have. I never did understand why the light would still go on when the
refer was switched to off.
Ben
Ben Hogland
news:R7OdnT5WsOb...@giganews.com...
> Ours is a Norcold and does have a temp adjustment on the outside. The
> thermistor is mounted on a clip on one of the center fins. The
> thermistor is black and about an inch long and the top of the clip is
> about 1/2 inch or so down from the top of the fin.
>
> --
> Kevin W. Miller
OK, Thanks Kevin.
Ben
Ben Hogland
news:Ov6dnUlBNv4hy3ne...@comcast.com...
OK, I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.
Ben
Ben Hogland
then and it's been in the same place.
>
> So anyway, I decided to replace the thermister today. It wasn't as
> hard as I thought it was going to be. I simply cut off the old
> connector on the board side and taped the new thermister to it then
> pulled it through from the inside of the refrig slowly. I was thinking
> I might have to pull out the refrig to get to the hole since it's out
> of reach. Worked great fishing it with the existing wire. Now to see
> if my refrig works like it should with the thermister clip on the fin.
> I'll wait until tomorrow morn to check again.
Works. Cools nicely with clip about center of fin. Refrig is about 33
and Freezer is about 19. Ready for the next RV trip.
Ben
Kevin W. Miller
Ben Hogland <benho...@hotmail.com> typed:
Stock it with Heinekins and we'll do a quality control test on it.
Kevin W. Miller
--
Kevin W. Miller
Ben Hogland
>>
>> Works. Cools nicely with clip about center of fin. Refrig is about 33
>> and Freezer is about 19. Ready for the next RV trip.
>>
>> Ben
>
> Stock it with Heinekins and we'll do a quality control test on it.
>
> Kevin W. Miller
OK, Deal. :-)
Ben
flan...@hotmail.com
thermistor.....Correct? Which component was the problem? Did you put
your old board back in and did you get different results? Were both
components bad? Maybe I missed something in the thread.
Paul
Ben Hogland
The orginal problem was freezing of the refrigerator. Replacing the
board seem to fix that but then it wouldn't get quite cool enough with
the thermister properly placed on the fin. I probably could have gotten
it to work by placing the thermister down off the fin but since I had
already bought a thermister, I just replaced it to see if it would fix
that too. After I replaced the thermister, it cooled to the correct
temp when attached to the fin. So, to answer your question, it was
*probably* the board and the thermister was probably at the edge of the
spec. I'm not going to put the old board back in to find out since, at
this point, I have a working refrigerator and that's all that matters
to me.
Ben
flan...@hotmail.com
you now have a spare board if needed it. I gues when I had some down
time I would try the new board just tp prove it.
Paul