Since I've first worn 'Korkers' 15 years ago Salmon fishing..I never go into a
stream without them unless it's a sandy bottom or like that. I've gotten so
used to being able to worry less about my footing and concentrating more on
the fishing that I feel uncomfortable in the stream without them. The Korkers
brand by far is the best as they use carbide caulks that outlast any of the
others I've tried. A good investment....
Tight Lines!!
JAPPLE
Yes, they're great but here's a couple of tips:
Put a wood screw horizontally through the corker into the heel of
your wader or wading boot from each side. ( 2 on each boot, # 8
x1 1/4 " wood screw works O.K. ) This will save replacing
corkers lost in fast water.
Say a prayer before descending a steep snow-covered hill, corkers
are like skis on snow.
One piece of river etiquette that is forgotten all
too often, however: if you are floating, your guide
or host would appreciate being asked whether or not
it's appropriate to wear cleats or spikes in the boat,
since they can make quite a permanent mess on someone's
floorboards or non-scuff paint.
As an alternative you might look at either the removable
kind (sort of like shoe rubbers) or a folding wading staff.
Good Luck,
Peter Yoakum, Editor
Flyfishers Online
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Flyfishers Online at http://flyfishers.com
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Depends on what you do and where you go. Cleats are hell on a drift
boat or raft, useless in sand, mud or gravel and tend to trip you up
(especially when they're new and sharp). On the other hand felts on slick
grassy banks, polished granite boulders or when it's below freezing are
not much fun.
Hardened steel studs or Korkers are the best for walking around on pock
marked volcanic substrate or when walking on slimy logs. For hard slick
stuff like polished granite or marble, aluminum is best because it smears
against the rock to provide traction where hard points skid.
-Ralph
--
cut...@flyline.com (Ralph & Lisa Cutter, California School of Flyfishing. Box 8212, Truckee, CA 96162.) http://www.flyline.com
I fished for several years with aluminum cleated overshoes (from Dan
Bailey, I believe). Excellent traction; much better than felt. They
look really goofy, though. I now have been using Orvis wading boots
with felt soles and boron tips. Best of all worlds and a little snugger
fit overall. Price is just about the same; the shoes are a bit more
expensive but last longer (I'd rip the hell out of the overshoe). Most
importantly, with the shoes on I look like a FF poster child :-)
I've used korkers and they're fine- a bit expensive and heavy but they
work well in very slick streams. I dont like the extra weight, so
I've taken to placing a couple of dozen small hex headed sheet metal screws
in the boot felt. (the exact size escapes me but they are about
3/8" long +/-) I've set some in expoy but to be honest it didnt seem to
make any difference. Most of the screws will last a season before they
wear off or pull out.
All things considered, its a 50 cent and five minute solution.
I bought a pair of "CORKERS" yes that's the brand name. 40.00 per
pair, but I love-em !!! Never had a slip problem, and the tie right
onto your existing boots. (i leave em tied right onto the boots all the
time). I bought them for fishing for steelies in the winter time up in
pulaski N.Y. on the salmon river. (all the river banks are frozen big
time, and They're steel tipped, so I never slip. Look em up, they're
worth every penny.
Hugh
I have used the original Korker sandals from Oregon. They are a
little heavy and tend to come off in the water if your not careful.
They have carbide tipped, replaceable studs and grip very well. They
were made famous buy steel headers on the North Umpqua river in
Oregon. The original ones had nylon laces, but they have a new model
with adjustable web straps with buckles.
Dan Bailey's Stream Cleats from Montana are rubber goulashes with
aluminum grids. They work well and slip on and off easily. The
rubber can tear and the aluminum wears out, but the are effective on
large rivers.
Today, most people use wadding shoes with studded felt soles for large
rivers. They are all one piece and wear well. Not everyone likes
metal on the bottom of the wadding boots. Some still prefer felt.
DBZ
Cleats or swimmin?, an easy decision for me
Bill
> They are a
>little heavy and tend to come off in the water if your not careful.
They're more than a little heavy, but if laced across the top of the boot
correctly they never come off. Back in the mid 80's folks would lace them
around the edges (old directions used to suggest that as the proper way)
instead of crossing the laces like a regular pair of shoes and that's
where the problem came from. I specifically bought mine because I fished
the North Umpqua a lot, and you don't even want to think about wading that
river without some kind of cleats. On a scale of 1 to 10 in wading
difficulty, it's a solid 9. Even with cleats I would often end up
swimming at least once a day.
Dan
Dan Gracia
Orvis West Coast Fly Fishing Schools
DGr...@aol.com
If you kill that big fish you can't catch 'em again. So what if they eat
other fish? If you kill the big ones there will only be little ones left
(funny how that works!).
>One thing you should keep in mind is that if you are wearing
>cleats you must be aware of where your line is .As in don't
>step on your line.I have ruined many a line . The cleats will
>cut right into the line.
This is true with the stream cleats that are bent aluminum bars set in
rubber galoshes. The edges are real sharp when new and will cut your line
in a flash. After they've been distorted a bit from use they don't eat
lines quite so quickly but watch your step. The Korkers (sandals with
carbide tipped steel studs) won't cut the line but are a lot heavier.