I'm proud to announce that I just made a nice, period-appropriate Mongolian del
complete with trim and all. I have just one thing holding me back from fully
making it wearable: the "buttons." I'm not quite sure how to go about making
them or what sorts of materials to use.
Can anyone out there give me an idea of how I might make the "buttons" for a
del? Also, how many do you recommend using?
Many thanks.
- Jess V
What I have read and was taught at Pennsic is that the buttons
were spheres or hemispheres, usually of silver. The examples I
saw were hemispherical plastic buttons spray-painted silver.
You can find buttons like this at any fabric shop.
I believe the correct number is five: throat, shoulder, chest,
rib cage, and waist. (I'm really short-waisted; I'd do four --
just don't have the room for that ribcage one.) These should be
attached to the del by straps (run a piece of cord through the
hold and sew the cord down) and fastened by a loop.
See http://members.tripod.com/~whitebard/caftan5.gif for
information about buttons and buttonholes.
Tasha
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The plastic spheres or hemispheres would work, but I prefer metal buttons
(they don't need spray paint). I use copper buttons with an oriental dragon
imprinted on them. I get them from a merchant at $10 for a dozen.
Technically, it's not the most period way to close a del, but it works really
nicely and I like it a lot.
If you want to me more period, try tying the piece of string attached to the
front flap into an eternity knot. That works well too.
I use silk cord in a matching color to the del for the loop and string to hold
the del together. I hope I was helpful.
-Avarga Chagadaai
Iron Chef Mongol
Are your buttons flat or spheroid? I used flat ones, too, but
I'm not nuts about it.
Don't suppose you have any docs for embroidery on dels in
period? Or was decoration mostly strips of fabric or fur?
The buttons that I use are flat. Period dels were embroidered up the wazoo,
and post-period through modern dels tend to be decorated with several strips of
wide trim placed next to each other. I don't have any documents per se, but I
can refer you to "Mongol Costumes" by Henny Harald Hansen, ISBN 0500015856. It
is a good book but has several faults. It is also very hard to find.
> Are your buttons flat or spheroid? I used flat ones, too, but
> I'm not nuts about it.
>
> Don't suppose you have any docs for embroidery on dels in
> period? Or was decoration mostly strips of fabric or fur?
>
> Tasha
Most stores that sell Tibetan clothing will also sell the buttons
separately. I guess people want to buy replacements. Occasionally, they
even carry antique sterling ones.
There are several Tibetan stores here in New York, so I've never had a
problem getting buttons. There's a good one in Woodstock that also has a
web page: www.dharmaware.com. The buttons aren't listed on the web page,
but I'll bet that they have them in stock. Might be worth a call.
On the other hand, I've been having really good luck lately with buttons
on e-bay. If you think getting three or four matching metal ball buttons
with an attractive design on them is hard, try finding ghawazee coat
buttons.
For extant examples brocade silk and embroidery, see also "When Silk Was
Gold" (catalog of a Metropolitan Museum exhibit of early medieval
textiles from Central Asia). It has everything from robes to boots. It
also has two coverlets that were made of salvaged pieces from embroidered
robes, appliqued into a quilt. Also, there's a boy's coat from the 8th
century that has (of all things) a stand-up collar. I guess it was a
style that went in and out of fashion.
Elaine Ragland
aka Melanie de la Tour