It's a matter of closure. As a rule of thumb, the gap should have the
size of about the thickness of the reed. If it is a bit closer, the
reed will respond a bit better, but not reach the same volume as other
reeds and be more liable to pitch bending. If it is even closer, it
will at some point of time stop to respond at all. With increasing
distance, the response gets worse, but the reed will develop more volume
with larger pressure, while being less susceptible to pitch bending.
So the gap size for soloists tends to be a bit more than for private
players, giving one an instrument that can't be played as quietly, but
which you can take to quite louder volumes.
If you are adjusting the reeds in a chord, try making the gaps of
similar size (adjusting for the overall size of the reed, of course).
Note that adjusting the gap size will have slight repercussions on the
pitch as well.
--
David Kastrup
i agree with the answer.
I would like to add that there are other circumstances that influence
the loudness of the reed.
Some are not really a matter that can be changed.
Filing slop and stiffness of the tongue is of interest as well.
If the reed is not set proper on the chamber and if Valves are to
stiff, all may effect the loudness of the reed as well.
Best regards, Johann
> I would like to add that there are other circumstances that influence
> the loudness of the reed.
> Some are not really a matter that can be changed.
> Filing slop and stiffness of the tongue is of interest as well.
Well, if the reed has been treated worse by a tuner than its companions,
or if it is of different starting quality (exchanged because its
predecessor has been broken), then you have to expect differences.
> If the reed is not set proper on the chamber and if Valves are to
> stiff, all may effect the loudness of the reed as well.
Yes, right. If the enclosing is not airtight (fissures in the wax, or
wax fallen off, or similar), then you will have definitive loss of
volume and response, slight increase of pitch, and likely additional
noises (chirpy stuff).
--
David Kastrup
> .I want to thank Johann und David for your comments. The Bayan I am
> restoring had been badly abused, several reeds were broken so I
> replaced out them with reeds out of various other accordions.
You can't make silk purses out of sow ears. Reed quality has to be
matched closely.
> Many reeds still in the Bayan had been abraided excessively in the
> middle, exactly where the other reeds broke.
Tuning. If a number of reeds broke there, most likely clumsy tuning.
> This is going to be a long term project.
Unless the original instrument is of exceptional quality, most likely
not worth the trouble. If the original instrument is of exceptional
quality (I doubt it, since true bayans tend to have combination reed
plates), you'll need to invest a multiple of the amount a new entry
class instrument of non-zero quality will cost you.
--
David Kastrup
I agree that perfect quality is impossible in this old instrument.
Since I am 75 years old and my limited finances do not allow large
expenses I am forced to make do with limited quality. I dedicate my
time and efforts because this has become a hobby which helps me
preserve my sanity. I need to do this so that I learn the fingering
sufficiently to become reasonably proficient to the point that I can
impress the love of my life should destiny allow me to ever see her
again. She is very good on the Bayans she owns which means to me that
effort is of little consequence. I would love to know how much
distance there is between “too close” and “too far” assuming a middle
C reed, and what means “pitch bending”? ...Walter (Bayanwannabe)
Just experiment. You will learn what works with that particular
reed. It might help if you could make some kind of equipment to power
the reeds at the workbench. You move the entire reed block to the bench
and power the reeds one at a time by putting the reed's hole over the
hole in the bench air supply (an old bellows mounted under the bench,
with a pedal to move the bellows in one direction and either a weight or
a spring to move it in the other direction. This gives you the ability
to check the behavior of a reed without having to reassemble the
instrument for each try.
> and what means ?pitch bending??
Pitch of the produced note shifts with bellows pressure.
Normally undesirable -- except in some styles of music, but more common
in certain styles of harmonica playing. I can't imagine it being
desirable in any style of Bayan playing.
There was someone in this newsgroup quite a few years ago who
was working on a modification to an accordion so you could switch on or
off the ability to bend pitch.
Enjoy,
DoN.
--
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