Air button stuck on Hohner D40 concertina...
David Haardt
Today I received a Hohner D40 concertina which I won on eBay.
Unfortunately the joy did not last very long since I soon noticed that
the air button is stuck, meaning that air always also blows through
the valve, not only through the reed(s). Do you think that this may be
fixable? In a sense I am asking whether I should ask for a price
reduction or for a refund... I have zero concertina repair skills
myself, though.
Many thanks,
David
(no cross-posting this time!)
David Kastrup
> Today I received a Hohner D40 concertina which I won on eBay.
> Unfortunately the joy did not last very long
Does it ever?
> since I soon noticed that the air button is stuck, meaning that air
> always also blows through the valve, not only through the reed(s). Do
> you think that this may be fixable? In a sense I am asking whether I
> should ask for a price reduction or for a refund... I have zero
> concertina repair skills myself, though.
Probably just a missing spring or a bent lever. The air button is such
an uncritical part of the instrument that I would not consider it a
worthy topic for complaints unless the instrument had been declared as
being in perfect condition. If that's the only problem, you are
probably lucky.
--
David Kastrup, Kriemhildstr. 15, 44793 Bochum
ike milligan
"David Kastrup" <d...@gnu.org> wrote in message
news:857igo3...@lola.goethe.zz...
David Kastrup
No, he fixes it or has somebody fix it. This would like just require
generic repair skills, not specialized accordion repair skills.
Len Killick
It should be a simple you fix. You could do this yourself, the Hohner
D40 is a simple construction - contact me directly if you need a few
pointers on what to do.
David Haardt
> [...]
Thank you all very much for your suggestions. I guess I might dare to
take off the cover on the side where the air button is. In fact I
think I can see the open air valve through the nylon mesh of that
cover. I guess the only thing I am afraid of is that if I break
something, or if later on I find out about other problems, it will be
my own responsibility whereas right now it's the sellers fault. Apart
from that the concertina seems to be OK; I was able to play "When the
Saints go marching in" even though the sound and playability are of
course rather suboptimal if some air always blows through the open air
valve rather than through the reed. But it seems to be in tune at
least. Another minor remark: I was surprised how high the high notes
on the left hand side are, but I think it's supposed to be that way.
Best wishes,
David
David Haardt
Hello everybody,
I've now taken off the cover of the left-hand side of the concertina
but, unfortunately, am not quite sure what to do next. I expected to
see the action of the concertina after taking off the cover, but in
fact removing those screws removed the entire cover, with the action
still hidden inside.
This is how the taken off cover looks from the outside:
http://haardt.net/concertina1.jpg
And from the inside: http://haardt.net/concertina2.jpg
On the second photo, you can see the open air valve half hidden behind
the reed block on the top left hand corner. I guess I will have to get
inside the cover to take a look at why this valve does not close. On
the inside of the cover I can only see four screws, two for the reed
block and two others (see second photo). I'm not sure what the latter
do, and they are half covered by the felt/insulation which does not
help. What would you suggest to do next?
Thanks a lot,
David
DoN. Nichols
>> On 28 Feb., 19:48, David Haardt <haardt...@gmx.at> wrote:
>>
>> [...]
>
> Hello everybody,
>
> I've now taken off the cover of the left-hand side of the concertina
> but, unfortunately, am not quite sure what to do next. I expected to
> see the action of the concertina after taking off the cover, but in
> fact removing those screws removed the entire cover, with the action
> still hidden inside.
O.K. Pretty much like the Bastari Italian made English system
concertinas -- and the exterior of the endbox looks similar as well,
except for being an Anglo. The Bastaris later got the name Stagi, and
it looks as though Hohner has absorbed them.
> This is how the taken off cover looks from the outside:
> http://haardt.net/concertina1.jpg
>
> And from the inside: http://haardt.net/concertina2.jpg
Good photos. They help confirm things.
> On the second photo, you can see the open air valve half hidden behind
> the reed block on the top left hand corner. I guess I will have to get
> inside the cover to take a look at why this valve does not close.
The things which I can think of, in order, and assuming Bastari
like internals as well:
1) Button has slid on the lever thus tilting the button and
causing it to wedge in the hole.
Examination will show whether this is the case, and should make
the cure obvious.
2) Broken spring.
You can make a replacement from music wire with some round-nose
pliers and a bit of patience. At a guess, one of the coarser
unwound banjo strings might do. For short lengths of stiffer
wire you might look at a hobby shop of the kind which offers
model airplane kits and the like. Serious supplies of music
wire tend to be rolls of one pound, which in any gauge which you
are likely to need would be several lifetimes worth if you don't
find other things to use it for. :-)
3) The lever may be aluminum moving in a slot in an aluminum
channel. Aluminum on aluminum moving parts are a bad design, as
it is subject to galling (parts weld together and then pull
apart by pulling metal out of one of the pieces, leaving a spike
and a corresponding pit which tends to hang things up.
File the surfaces smooth with a set of Swiss needle files before
reassembling.
4) The glue securing the valve pad to the lever may have partially
given up, letting the pad tilt and jam.
Just break it free fully, place the pad over the hole well
centered, let the spring hold the lever against it, and use some
glue to re-join the two parts. Hot glue from a gun might work
well. Others vary, with some (like white glue) likely to
release if you play in a humid climate.
> On
> the inside of the cover I can only see four screws, two for the reed
> block and two others (see second photo). I'm not sure what the latter
> do, and they are half covered by the felt/insulation which does not
> help. What would you suggest to do next?
Remove those two screws and you can then separate the halves of
the endbox.
The material (felt or foam rubber) is not there for insulation,
but rather to keep air from leaking out between the bellows frame and
the endbox. As long as there is enough remaining to contact the
bellows frame in that area, you are fine. And it looks like you are
about to develop a leak at about 9:00 in the inside view . I think that
tear may come fully inside the bellows frame contact point, in which
case it will leak, and you will want to find something to replace it.
For something fairly easy to find, you could go to a home hardware store
and look at weatherstriping to find something which can replace the
whole thing as a unit. The foam rubber likely used tends to degrade
with age and turn into a gummy mess, so replacing it early makes life
easier.
Best of luck,
DoN.
--
Email: <dnic...@d-and-d.com> | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
David Haardt
> [long and helpful reply]
Wow. That was an impressive and very helpful reply. Thanks a lot, DoN!
Unfortunately I'm a bit stuck. When I remove the two screws whose
function I was not able to guess (see http://haardt.net/concertina2.jpg
, top and bottom screws), nothing happens. I found a web site which
nicely shows how a Bastari (thank you for pointing out the apparent
parallels!) looks from the inside, see http://www.concertina.net/kc_bastari.html
, and from this web site it seems as if the board that holds the reed
block and the action should come out, leaving an empty cover:
http://www.concertina.net/images_kc_bastari/s_detail.jpg However, I
cannot even see where the "border" between this board and the cover
is. As you can see on my photo, the rubber foam seems to cover the
area where the two parts should separate. This foam appears to be
glued onto both edges. I tried to hold the reed block with one hand
and the concertina handle with the other, trying to gently pull the
two parts apart, but I did not have immediate success and was rather
afraid to break something ;-) It would be great to hear from somebody
who has successfully taken a D40 apart in order to know whether the
two parts should indeed separate in that way.
Miraculously, the stuck air button unstuck while I did that. I think a
broken spring is the most likely problem since there is absolutely no
resistance when I push or pull the air button. Now I just have to
figure out how to access its workings...
Goodnight,
David
ike milligan
"David Haardt" <haar...@gmx.at> wrote in message
news:09ab9cec-4924-4793...@d62g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
where you take the board out. The gasket shown should be for the outside
cover, The board should come out with this gasket still in place. The gasket
on the other side of the board may be sticking a little bit and might reqire
some prying gently around the edges of the board, like with a butter knife,
to let go.
ike milligan
not have an air button? On a DBA you need it of course, but someone
suggested you don't need it on the concertina you have.
Sorry about the typo. I sent a personal reply by mistake where I spelled it
"cancertinas".
DoN. Nichols
> On 1 Mrz., 20:16, "DoN. Nichols" <dnich...@d-and-d.com> wrote:
>> [long and helpful reply]
>
> Wow. That was an impressive and very helpful reply. Thanks a lot, DoN!
>
> Unfortunately I'm a bit stuck. When I remove the two screws whose
> function I was not able to guess (see http://haardt.net/concertina2.jpg
> , top and bottom screws), nothing happens. I found a web site which
> nicely shows how a Bastari (thank you for pointing out the apparent
> parallels!) looks from the inside, see http://www.concertina.net/kc_bastari.html
> , and from this web site it seems as if the board that holds the reed
> block and the action should come out, leaving an empty cover:
> http://www.concertina.net/images_kc_bastari/s_detail.jpg
That appears to be a very close match.
> However, I
> cannot even see where the "border" between this board and the cover
> is.
Looking at your photo in detail (zooming in), I see hints of it
looking at the corner nearest the camera. The corner seems to be
pokeing through the gum rubber. And looking at the photo which you
indicated on the concertina.net page it seems that the parting line goes
right through the holes for the enbox screws attachment to the bellows
frame.
> As you can see on my photo, the rubber foam seems to cover the
> area where the two parts should separate. This foam appears to be
> glued onto both edges.
Can you peel up the foam? It should be replaced anyway. If you
can feel the parting line through the foam, use an X-acto knife to cut
through the foam to free the parts to separate.
> I tried to hold the reed block with one hand
> and the concertina handle with the other, trying to gently pull the
> two parts apart, but I did not have immediate success and was rather
> afraid to break something ;-) It would be great to hear from somebody
> who has successfully taken a D40 apart in order to know whether the
> two parts should indeed separate in that way.
It certainly looks as though that is where it parts -- hidden
under the foam, as there is noplace else visible. The other likely
places on other instruments are half-way up the sidewall (common for
English-made instruments), and the end plate itself (which appears to
have been what happened on the real Bastari in the web photos.
> Miraculously, the stuck air button unstuck while I did that. I think a
> broken spring is the most likely problem since there is absolutely no
> resistance when I push or pull the air button.
Does it move the lever and open/close the air valve? If not, it
may have just slipped off the lever. The photos of the rubber tubing
around the base of the buttons on the concertina.net page shows examples
of the buttons with the slots for the levers to pass through.
> Now I just have to
> figure out how to access its workings...
Part the foam rubber (don't use too much Force, Luke. :-)
Good Luck,
DoN. Nichols
>
> "David Haardt" <haar...@gmx.at> wrote in message
[ ... ]
> Concertinas are not my business, but why not just tape over the air hole and
> not have an air button? On a DBA you need it of course, but someone
> suggested you don't need it on the concertina you have.
You don't need one on an *English* system concertina, but what
he has is an *Anglo* system - like the DBA folded between the hands. So
you most certainly *do* need the air button unless you manage to find a
*short* tune which you can play all on the draw, and then another which
you can play all on the press. :-)
> Sorry about the typo. I sent a personal reply by mistake where I spelled it
> "cancertinas".
Hmm ... a major infection. :-)
Enjoy,
David Haardt
>
> Looking at your photo in detail (zooming in), I see hints of it
> looking at the corner nearest the camera. The corner seems to be
> pokeing through the gum rubber. And looking at the photo which you
> indicated on the concertina.net page it seems that the parting line goes
> right through the holes for the enbox screws attachment to the bellows
> frame.
Hi everybody,
First of all I have to thank DoN, Ike, and Len Killick (who wrote
several replies in response to an email which I sent to him) for their
immense help.
I also think (or at least thought) that I could see something there,
but was (am?) reluctant to remove the gum rubber. In his last email,
Len suggested that there may be further screws underneath the handle
grip (like older Bastari concertinas), where I did not look yet. This
could indeed be an option. I will check that when I come home tonight.
If there are no screws there, then removing the gum rubber is the only
option anyway.
Another, new, question: the action (or at least something) seems to be
mounted on the board that one can see on the inner side of the cover
with several nails - at least one can see several nails almost
protruding. (Should be visible on my second photo, but isn't really
visible because they are too small.) That seems rather fragile to me,
even though I don't know whether a more robust design would be
feasible. Is that also done like this on other concertinas?
> Does it move the lever and open/close the air valve? If not, it
> may have just slipped off the lever. The photos of the rubber tubing
> around the base of the buttons on the concertina.net page shows examples
> of the buttons with the slots for the levers to pass through.
Yes, it does. It just feels as if there is absolutely no resistance or
anything. As if I was merely pushing and pulling the button through
the hole without anything being fixed to the button behind the cover.
But I hope I'll find out more about that as soon as I've finally
managed to take off the cover.
About not using the air button: I thought the same, and I did indeed
temporarily put a Scotch tape over the hole to check what's happening.
It somewhat works (and the sound is much better than with the open air
valve), but of course it requires to play with a lot of foresight so
that one never runs out of bellows, so to say. I guess for some/many
tunes it simply won't be possible to do that. The sound is pretty nice
by the way, and I like the way in which one has a lot of control over
volume and style by operating the bellows with varying speed and by
altering the way in which to switch from one (set) of button(s) to the
next. In that sense a very nice type of instrument and I'm glad I got
it.
Best wishes,
David
DoN. Nichols
> On Mar 2, 9:21 pm, "DoN. Nichols" <dnich...@d-and-d.com> wrote:
>>
>> Looking at your photo in detail (zooming in), I see hints of it
>> looking at the corner nearest the camera. The corner seems to be
>> indicated on the concertina.net page it seems that the parting line goes
>> right through the holes for the enbox screws attachment to the bellows
>> frame.
[ ... ]
> I also think (or at least thought) that I could see something there,
> but was (am?) reluctant to remove the gum rubber. In his last email,
> Len suggested that there may be further screws underneath the handle
> grip (like older Bastari concertinas), where I did not look yet.
There may -- but I suspect not. You'll know soon enough. It
does not look as though the straps are secured in such a way as to cover
the screws.
[ ... ]
> Another, new, question: the action (or at least something) seems to be
> mounted on the board that one can see on the inner side of the cover
> with several nails - at least one can see several nails almost
> protruding. (Should be visible on my second photo, but isn't really
> visible because they are too small.)
I can't tell for sure, though I see several suspect areas.
There is too much lost to the JPEG lossy compression to be able to tell
for sure.
> That seems rather fragile to me,
> even though I don't know whether a more robust design would be
> feasible. Is that also done like this on other concertinas?
O.K. I will describe only the English construction concertinas,
since that is what I know the best. You can see photos detailing this,
and some drawings, by visiting the web page whose URL is shown in my
.sig at the end of each article. Go to that URL, then scroll down until
you find a link "Tour of a concertina" and go there.
First off, the valve pads and holes are arranged in a circle
around the OD of the instrument. The reeds and their valve flaps are
dovetailed into a separate reed pan which is partitioned by a round
piece of wood sort of in the center (offset because the bass reeds are
longer than the treble ones) and reed chambers are defined by radial
partitions which go on out to the outer edge of the reed pan. There is
a hole in the center of the round piece into which you are expected to
put your thumb to pull out the reed pan for access to the reeds. (Half
of them are on the other side of the reed pan -- the ones which are
visible play on the draw, and the ones on the other side play on the
press.
Anyway -- on the action board, there is a raised round block of
wood inside the circle of valve holes. Each valve lever pivots on a
separate projection which is driven into the raised wood so they never
touch the valve board itself. There are also holes in the raised board
which accept tail pins on the buttons to keep them traveling straight.
The only screws to consider are those which attach the outer
actionbox housing to the action board. There are typically two, though
occasionally a third one. One in in the middle of the bracket holding
the thumb strap, one is in the middle of the little finger rest (there
is no palm rest on the English system, because it needs access to at
least 48 keys, and the top of the Anglo line stops around 40 keys), and
finally there may be a third screw visible past the treble-most buttons,
more often on larger instruments.
Sometimes these screws go through the raised board and the valve
board and are ground or filed off flush with the valve board. But since
they are occupied by the screws, they do not form leaks. And they are
not depended upon to hold the actionbox together while playing. That
task is covered by the six or eight screws holding the action box to the
bellows frame. And those are not normally wood screws, but rather
bronze or nickel screws going into brass or bronze plates inlaid into
the bellows frame.
>> Does it move the lever and open/close the air valve? If not, it
>> may have just slipped off the lever. The photos of the rubber tubing
>> around the base of the buttons on the concertina.net page shows examples
>> of the buttons with the slots for the levers to pass through.
>
> Yes, it does. It just feels as if there is absolutely no resistance or
> anything. As if I was merely pushing and pulling the button through
> the hole without anything being fixed to the button behind the cover.
> But I hope I'll find out more about that as soon as I've finally
> managed to take off the cover.
O.K. It is remotely possible that the spring is intact and has
simply come unhooked from the lever. You'll discover when you can
examine it.
> About not using the air button: I thought the same, and I did indeed
> temporarily put a Scotch tape over the hole to check what's happening.
> It somewhat works (and the sound is much better than with the open air
> valve), but of course it requires to play with a lot of foresight so
> that one never runs out of bellows, so to say. I guess for some/many
> tunes it simply won't be possible to do that.
Only if you have one of the really expanded ones like 40 key or
so. Only the first two rows of buttons play natural keys. The others
are added to provide a note on the draw which is only available on the
press or vice versa, and to add notes which are not present at all.
With an instrument like this, in many keys you can keep playing just by
changing rows and buttons. It takes a lot more learning, but that is
what is done to extend the capability of the instrument. (The English
system is naturally chromatic, and gives the same note in both
directions, so this is not a problem there, and most do not have air
buttons. Those that do, provide buttons with only very little air flow,
and these are called "bowing levers" as they allow you to add travel to
the bellows prior to reversing direction for a longer phrase. (And they
are called "levers" because they often are tiny levers sticking out
where your thumbs can operate them. The only things else that the
thumbs do are to drive the instrument and to provide a stable reference
from which the fingers can search out the keys. The little finger does
something similar most of the time on the little finger rest, but it
occasionally does come into play on a button.
> The sound is pretty nice
> by the way, and I like the way in which one has a lot of control over
> volume and style by operating the bellows with varying speed and by
> altering the way in which to switch from one (set) of button(s) to the
> next. In that sense a very nice type of instrument and I'm glad I got
> it.
Then it sounds like a good choice for you. That drive from the
reversal of the bellows direction is one of the things which make this
such a good instrument for dance tunes. (Though you *can* do this with
the English system -- it needs to be more of a conscious choice.
Best of luck,
David Haardt
> There may -- but I suspect not. You'll know soon enough. It
> does not look as though the straps are secured in such a way as to cover
> the screws.
No, you were right, the screws that secure the strap only secure the
strap, the wooden bar to which the straps are secured is one single
piece that does not come off.
So I need to remove the rummer gum. Scary.
> O.K. I will describe only the English construction concertinas,
> since that is what I know the best. You can see photos detailing this,
> and some drawings, by visiting the web page whose URL is shown in my
> .sig at the end of each article. Go to that URL, then scroll down until
> you find a link "Tour of a concertina" and go there.
>
> [...]
>
> Sometimes these screws go through the raised board and the valve
> board and are ground or filed off flush with the valve board. But since
> they are occupied by the screws, they do not form leaks. And they are
> not depended upon to hold the actionbox together while playing. That
> task is covered by the six or eight screws holding the action box to the
> bellows frame. And those are not normally wood screws, but rather
> bronze or nickel screws going into brass or bronze plates inlaid into
> the bellows frame.
Wow, thank you for the explanation. Now I understand it a little bit
better. Also the explanation about the English system was very
helpful.
So... I think tonight I may remove the rubber gum in one place, to see
whether I can indeed see the "border" between the side walls of the
cover and the board holding the action. As I said I am slightly
concerned about this since my repair skills are rather limited (and as
a result I always prefer to take apart stuff that is secured with
something that can naturally be re-used again, like screws).
I got a nice book too, by the way, which is Mel Bay's Deluxe
Concertina Book by Frank Converse. It got decent reviews on Amazon,
and it is written for an Anglo concertina in G-C, so I thought that
would be good as a companion purchase. And indeed it is very helpful.
Some of the songs more towards the end look quite challenging though,
especially if you have to play non-analogous runs on the two sides at
the same time. I guess for piano players this is not challenging at
all, but let's see whether in due course my brain will be able to move
my fingers in the right way ;-)
Anyway, have a good day, and thank you very much again for your help!
David
David Haardt
Hello again,
I finally solved the problem and thought I'd let you know because of
all your help. I lacked courage up to now, but tonight I had a sudden
impetus and voilà, I managed to solve the problem in much less time
than I expected/feared. The spring was not broken, it was simply
loosely hanging on the metal axis as it was completely dislocated. I
managed to bring it into its correct position and now the air button
works as it's supposed to work. The button is a bit skewed, so I may
have to fiddle around again in the future to make operation a bit more
user-friendly, but at least it works now and I don't anticipate
problems in the near future. The gum rubber, by the way, I kept. I
simply cut across it in a narrow place to check whether I could see
the two parts separate underneath (yes), and then I cut along the
separation line. So the gum rubber is still there, it's just cut in
two all around. In the future I may want to replace it as one of you
suggested, but for the time being it should be OK like this. Here is a
photo of how the action looks like: http://haardt.net/concertina3.jpg
Anyway. The most important thing: thank you all very much for your
help! Much appreciated. Now I just have to learn how to play this
thing properly ;-)
Best wishes,
David
DoN. Nichols
> On 28 Feb., 20:48, David Haardt <haardt...@gmx.at> wrote:
>> Hello everybody,
>>
>> Today I received a Hohner D40 concertina which I won on eBay.
>> Unfortunately the joy did not last very long since I soon noticed that
[ ... ]
> Hello again,
>
> I finally solved the problem and thought I'd let you know because of
> all your help. I lacked courage up to now, but tonight I had a sudden
> impetus and voilą, I managed to solve the problem in much less time
> than I expected/feared. The spring was not broken, it was simply
> loosely hanging on the metal axis as it was completely dislocated.
I think that I suggested that this might be the case.
Congratulations!
> I
> managed to bring it into its correct position and now the air button
> works as it's supposed to work. The button is a bit skewed, so I may
> have to fiddle around again in the future to make operation a bit more
> user-friendly, but at least it works now and I don't anticipate
> problems in the near future.
That design of coupling the button to the lever is one which is
prone to troubles over time as the rubber sleeving around the button
ages and hardens. But now, you know the most important thing -- that
fixing these problems can be fairly easy, once you work up the courage
to make the attempt. (Granted, good fine motion skills help too, but if
you did not have those, you probbly would not be playing such an
instrument anyway. :-)
> The gum rubber, by the way, I kept. I
> simply cut across it in a narrow place to check whether I could see
> the two parts separate underneath (yes), and then I cut along the
> separation line. So the gum rubber is still there, it's just cut in
> two all around. In the future I may want to replace it as one of you
> suggested, but for the time being it should be OK like this.
Yes -- especially if the rubber border is complete around the
inside edge of the parting line. If not, then there will be leaks which
will waste a bit of bellows travel.
> Here is a
> photo of how the action looks like: http://haardt.net/concertina3.jpg
O.K. This is what confirmed the button linkage design, even
though the angle was not right to give a really good view of that
detail.
> Anyway. The most important thing: thank you all very much for your
> help! Much appreciated. Now I just have to learn how to play this
> thing properly ;-)
I'm sure that you will.
Squeeze On,
Len Killick
David,
I'm pleased to hear that you managed to find your way in finally, as
you have found out now it's not so difficult or frightening and simple
problems like the spring can be easily fixed. The seal which you've
cut in two normally shouldn't be positioned across the join - it
usually runs along the outside edge to seal the inside of the
instrument from the outside - so what you've done shouldn't cause any
problem and as long as it works you don't need to fiy it!
Have fun with your working concertina.
Len
Uncle Bob
>
> That design of coupling the button to the lever is one which is
> prone to troubles over time as the rubber sleeving around the button
> ages and hardens. But now, you know the most important thing -- that
> fixing these problems can be fairly easy, once you work up the courage
> to make the attempt. (Granted, good fine motion skills help too, but if
> you did not have those, you probbly would not be playing such an
> instrument anyway. :-)
>
Someone suggested to me that I use surgical tubing to replace the
rubber/plastic/whatever sleeving, and by golly, I tried it and it worked.
The buttons don't drift around on the aluminum arms nearly as much as they
did on the factory version.
Uncle Bob
--
Fairfax, CA
DoN. Nichols
I think that was my suggestion -- after which I discovered that
the doctor's office which I go to uses flat bands of rubber instead of
tubing as a binder when taking blood samples. Where did you find it?
Does your doctor's office still use it? Did you find it in a drugstore?
Where?
Paul Hardy on Individual.net
"DoN. Nichols" <dnic...@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
news:slrnfu07gl....@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>
> I think that was my suggestion -- after which I discovered that
> the doctor's office which I go to uses flat bands of rubber instead of
> tubing as a binder when taking blood samples. Where did you find it?
> Does your doctor's office still use it? Did you find it in a drugstore?
> Where?
I fixed a similar concertina using the silicone tubing used for fuel lines
for model aircraft - available from most model shops.
--
Paul Hardy
Email: paul at the hardy.demon.co.uk domain
DoN. Nichols
>
> "DoN. Nichols" <dnic...@d-and-d.com> wrote in message
> news:slrnfu07gl....@Katana.d-and-d.com...
>>
>> I think that was my suggestion -- after which I discovered that
>> the doctor's office which I go to uses flat bands of rubber instead of
>> tubing as a binder when taking blood samples. Where did you find it?
>> Does your doctor's office still use it? Did you find it in a drugstore?
>> Where?
>
> I fixed a similar concertina using the silicone tubing used for fuel lines
> for model aircraft - available from most model shops.
Aha -- good point.
Thanks,
Uncle Bob
> On 2008-03-18, Uncle Bob <realo...@bogusnet.net> wrote:
>> On Mon, 17 Mar 2008 02:15:59 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
>>
>>>
>> Someone suggested to me that I use surgical tubing to replace
>> the
>> rubber/plastic/whatever sleeving, and by golly, I tried it and it
>> worked. The buttons don't drift around on the aluminum arms nearly as
>> much as they did on the factory version.
>
> I think that was my suggestion -- after which I discovered that
> the doctor's office which I go to uses flat bands of rubber instead of
> tubing as a binder when taking blood samples. Where did you find it?
> Does your doctor's office still use it? Did you find it in a drugstore?
> Where?
>
> Squeeze On,
> DoN.
Hi Don--
www.mcmaster.com has surgical tubing in a variety of thicknesses,
diameters and materials.
Just type "surgical tubing" in the search box.
Cheers,
DoN. Nichols
> On Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:55:01 +0000, DoN. Nichols wrote:
[ ... ]
>> I think that was my suggestion -- after which I discovered that
>> the doctor's office which I go to uses flat bands of rubber instead of
>> tubing as a binder when taking blood samples. Where did you find it?
>> Does your doctor's office still use it? Did you find it in a drugstore?
>> Where?
[ ... ]
> Hi Don--
> www.mcmaster.com has surgical tubing in a variety of thicknesses,
> diameters and materials.
> Just type "surgical tubing" in the search box.
Thanks! Now if only McMaster Carr would make it easier to get
a current one of their dead-tree catalogs. :-)
Thanks again,