Custom paint jobs for drums
BC
I'm custom building a drum and would like it to match my current kit.
Any suggestions on where I should go to get this done?
Would auto body shops be the best place to get that high gloss finish?
Anyone know the costs? I'm looking to match a Starclassic Maple kit.
thanks
-MIKE-
>
Yes.
> Anyone know the costs?
>
Probably $100-200 per drum, for the serious, real-deal, grand piano
high gloss, still looks wet finish. Price depends on the shop, if
there are any musicians working there. :-)
Ask if they've done instruments before. If not, ask if they've done
custom racing helmets or air brush graphics. Get a bunch of
estimates, because you're likely to get some astronomically high
ones that are really just a round about way of saying, "we don't
want to do that."
-MIKE-
"Playing is not something I do at night, it's my function in life"
--Elvin Jones (1927-2004)
--
http://mikedrums.com
mi...@mikedrumsDOT.com
---remove "DOT" ^^^^ to reply
JR Richley
make sure they buff it with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax - this stuff is
seriously fantastic for protecing high gloss laquer finshes, and makes
clean-up (especially on tour) a breeze!
http://www.thebestwax.com/boatwax.htm
John P
> here's a little tip. when the auto body guys are done paiting your drum,
> make sure they buff it with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax - this stuff is
> seriously fantastic for protecing high gloss laquer finshes, and makes
> clean-up (especially on tour) a breeze!
A good tip - except autobody guys haven't touched lacquer in many many
years. How does #845 do with urethane? Also - if they do the job using the
paints in their system, it will be basecoat/clearcoat. In that case, you
don't want to use anything so aggressive that it cuts through the clear.
They can use a single stage urethane, but the gloss won't be as good.
-MIKE-
Last snare I had dome was actually polyester. Whatever that means.
John P
> Last snare I had dome was actually polyester. Whatever that means.
At an Auto Body shop?
Mark D
make sure they buff it with Collinite #845 Insulator Wax - this stuff is
seriously fantastic for protecing high gloss laquer finshes, and makes
clean-up (especially on tour) a breeze!
http://www.thebestwax.com/boatwax.htm
Hi JR, One thing many Auto Paint Shops don't like seeing around, is any
type of wax product, or quick detailer product containing silicones.
In a shop, this can play some really bad havoc with painting. Usually,
all you'll see are glazes, and compounds for buffing.
I'll agree, Collinite does make an awesome product, as I've been using
many of thier products for many, many years.
Thier waxes will work well on essentially any type of finish. For my
autos, and I have also used this on my drums, the Super Double Coat
Carnauba Paste Wax really has no peer.
Very durable, little, if any dust, and a very transparent protective
coating, in which fantastic results are had on even dark colors. (Black)
Many of these products aren't ideally suited for any type of buffing
though. Application by hand, or an orbital polishing/waxing machine yes.
Hand glazes like 3M's Perfect-It, or Imperial Hand Glaze will work
wonders on many finishes eliminating haze, swirls, light scratches, and
bringing up the best possible high gloss, and depth that can be
achieved/attained.
Then a hand application of any of the Collinite products as a finishing
step would be a good way to go, either for painted finishes, and even
wrapped finishes too. Mark D.
John P
> Then a hand application of any of the Collinite products as a finishing
> step would be a good way to go, either for painted finishes, and even
> wrapped finishes too. Mark D.
Whoah! I was afraid you were going to say that.
If you get drums (or anything else) painted with an Automotive
Basecoat/Clearcoat system, do *not* use any type of wax on for at *least* 30
days. Prior to that, you still have a lot of solvent and other components
working their way out of the base coat through the clear. If you seal that
in, you'll end up with a pretty ugly paint job that will need to be stripped
and redone.
-MIKE-
>> Last snare I had dome was actually polyester. Whatever that means.
>
> At an Auto Body shop?
>
>
Yeah, what's up with it? He does custom helmets and hockey masks,
with all the air brushing, too.
John P
>>> Last snare I had dome was actually polyester. Whatever that means.
>> At an Auto Body shop?
> Yeah, what's up with it? He does custom helmets and hockey masks,
> with all the air brushing, too.
I'm guess I was just under the impression that you wouldn't find polyester
paints in an auto body shop any more. I'd think polyester was primarily used
in high solids primers, but not in your color coat (either base coat or
single stage). The Polyester (or epoxy, polyurethane, etc.) is the binding
agent for the paint... it's the meat of your paint job - what's left after
the paint dries.
-MIKE-
This was a high gloss clear coat, right over natural wood.
It could also be a case of tech-talk/semantics/inference coming into
play. :-)
John P
> This was a high gloss clear coat, right over natural wood.
> It could also be a case of tech-talk/semantics/inference coming into
> play. :-)
Ahh... if it was clear, then it was/is probably polyurethane.
Paint companies are making some pretty badass clears these days.
radcliffe
>>It could also be a case of tech-talk/semantics/inference coming into
>>play. :-)
>
>
> Ahh... if it was clear, then it was/is probably polyurethane.
> Paint companies are making some pretty badass clears these days.
>
>
He said it's not brittle like lacquers and other finishes, but very
flexible.
In fact, he recommended that I pre-cut any holes I needed to drill, or
else the bit might actually tear the poly.
John P
> He said it's not brittle like lacquers and other finishes, but very
> flexible.
Yup - has to work on bumper covers and all the other plastic parts on
today's cars. Sherwin-Williams clears are pre-flexed, the others require you
add a flex agent. ... and they're fast as hell these days too. You can paint
a car and deliver it the same day.