Cut or File the snare bed?
bradb...@my-deja.com
opinions on whether to cut the snare bed or file it... or a combination
of both.
any help would be greatly appreciated...
-Mark
Sent via Deja.com http://www.deja.com/
Before you buy.
John Riolo
always take off more later if you need better results. Sand the area after
with 600 or finer grit to finish the job.
-MIKE-
the "best" technique, I have cut each of the last several beds differently.
I've found many ways to do the same thing. Some quicker than others. But
you don't always want quick.
Whichever technique you venture, remember two important cautions.
1- be careful to not de-laminate the inner or outer ply.
2- go slow at first. You can always take more away, but you can't add.
Here's some that I've tried as of late...
RASP/FILE: It's fast, but messy. It's easy to de-laminate plies--
push/pull the inner or outer ply away-- like a splinter. And you can get
wavy results if you're not skilled at it.
CUT: Fast, but dangerous. Use a small (mini) hand planer or very sharp
utility knife. Draw the blade towards you, along the circumference of the
shell. This takes mucho skill, as it's easy to slip.
One you didn't mention--
SAND: Slow, but accurate. Start with 80-100 grit paper on a hard hand
block. (Course sanding plates are available for the Stanley SureForm Rasps.
These fit right on the SureForm and work just like sand paper, but don't
clog and last 10 times as long.)
With any of these techniques, once you've taken away the mass, sand. Clean
it up and shape the "ramps" with 120-180 grit. Smooth and polish the bed
and entire edge with 220 through 600 and up (depends on how smooth you like
it).
You can, of course, use combinations of these. But because I'm cutting such
shallow beds lately (3/32"), I've been just sanding. I have used a belt
sander, before. This is VERY fast :-), but be extremely careful. I don't
recommend it. Does anyone really need to cut an edge *that* fast? :-)
-MIKE-
--
The RMMP Charity Snare Drum Raffle Official Site:
http://mikedrums.com/raffle.html
Rich B
>One you didn't mention--
>SAND: Slow, but accurate. Start with 80-100 grit paper on a hard hand
>block. (Course sanding plates are available for the Stanley SureForm Rasps.
>These fit right on the SureForm and work just like sand paper, but don't
>clog and last 10 times as long.)
One YOU didn't mention...
Sanding with a dremel. Get the bit and go to town. Quicker than
sanding, not as tough as cutting. Happy medium. But skill is
necessary.
*****************************************
strat81 Rich '99 SL1
"Just because I wore a pink shirt doesn't mean
I'm some kind of pink doughnut eater!"--Homer
Proud Member of 89.5 FM WSOU-Seton Hall's PIRATE Radio
www.mrpdrums.com
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HappieTrails2U
If the snare beds are there for a reason, why would you want to file them?
-MIKE-
>
> If the snare beds are there for a reason, why would you want to file them?
We're talking about cutting a new snare bed in a new, raw shell.
-MIKE-
--
RMMP Charity Snare Drum Raffle Site:
http://mikedrums.com/raffle.html
-MIKE-
> Sanding with a dremel. Get the bit and go to town. Quicker than
> sanding, not as tough as cutting. Happy medium. But skill is
> necessary.
>
It is quick, Rich. But takes a VERY steady, too steady, hand to
pull off, without leaving a wavy edge. You end up hand sanding the
wave out anyway. But I suppose one could set up a guide, like on a
lathe, to help steady the Dremel. Now I'm going to have to set one
up. Rich, you jerk. :-)
Benjamin Jacoby
: Here's some that I've tried as of late...
: RASP/FILE: It's fast, but messy. It's easy to de-laminate plies--
: push/pull the inner or outer ply away-- like a splinter. And you can get
: wavy results if you're not skilled at it.
This is what I do, but never use a rasp, only finer files for the
de-laminate reasons. Slow and careful is the way!
: CUT: Fast, but dangerous. Use a small (mini) hand planer or very sharp
: utility knife. Draw the blade towards you, along the circumference of the
: shell. This takes mucho skill, as it's easy to slip.
MAN! Mike, I can't *believe* you did this! You must have cast iron balls!
Funny I didn't hear you clank when you walked at our last lodge meeting!
I'd never have the nerve to start cutting on a finished snare with power
tools. Oh Man! >:-0
Benj
--
SPAM-GUARD! Remove "user.", if present, from address to email me.
-MIKE-
>> utility knife. Draw the blade towards you, along the circumference of
>> the : shell. This takes mucho skill, as it's easy to slip.
> MAN! Mike, I can't *believe* you did this! You must have cast iron balls!
> Funny I didn't hear you clank when you walked at our last lodge meeting!
>
> I'd never have the nerve to start cutting on a finished snare with power
> tools. Oh Man! >:-0
>
> Benj
I always wear my custom fit, velvet lined, foam rubber nut covers.
Lest I draw attention to myself, or advances from Rob. (:cD
I used the utility knife on the 5 ply I am currently working on.
Like I have mentioned, I am experimenting with vastly different
beds. This one is very deep and very wide-- quite a snare channel.
It will receive a very wide set of snares with little sympathetic
buzz. That's the theory, anyway. :-)
I think the little mini-planers are pretty safe. If VERY sharp,
they cut like buttah and make quick work. But they're difficult to
use for narrow beds.
Ben, you should try the sanding technique, next time. It really
doesn't take that long, and it is very safe and accurate. This is
all I do in the solid shells, so I guess my balls are more like
sandstone.
By the way Ben, I haven't received your raffle pledge, yet. I know
it must just be an oversight. (:cb
Robert Schuh
> >> CUT: Fast, but dangerous. Use a small (mini) hand planer or very sharp
> >> utility knife. Draw the blade towards you, along the circumference of
> >> the : shell. This takes mucho skill, as it's easy to slip.
>
> > MAN! Mike, I can't *believe* you did this! You must have cast iron balls!
> > Funny I didn't hear you clank when you walked at our last lodge meeting!
> >
> > I'd never have the nerve to start cutting on a finished snare with power
> > tools. Oh Man! >:-0
> >
> > Benj
>
> I always wear my custom fit, velvet lined, foam rubber nut covers.
> Lest I draw attention to myself, or advances from Rob. (:cD
Mike,
If you keep airing our secrets in public, I am going to hold out on you! :-)
>
>
> I used the utility knife on the 5 ply I am currently working on.
> Like I have mentioned, I am experimenting with vastly different
> beds. This one is very deep and very wide-- quite a snare channel.
> It will receive a very wide set of snares with little sympathetic
> buzz. That's the theory, anyway. :-)
>
> I think the little mini-planers are pretty safe. If VERY sharp,
> they cut like buttah and make quick work. But they're difficult to
> use for narrow beds.
>
> Ben, you should try the sanding technique, next time. It really
> doesn't take that long, and it is very safe and accurate. This is
> all I do in the solid shells, so I guess my balls are more like
> sandstone.
>
> By the way Ben, I haven't received your raffle pledge, yet. I know
> it must just be an oversight. (:cb
>
> -MIKE-
>
> --
> RMMP Charity Snare Drum Raffle Site:
> http://mikedrums.com/raffle.html
--
Robert Schuh
"The Most Trolled Man On The Internet!"
Stevie, Trane, Jaco, Jimi and Bird are GODS!
Donate your organs. Save a life.
Proud Endorser of Spaun Drums
Rich B
>> One YOU didn't mention...
>> Sanding with a dremel. Get the bit and go to town. Quicker than
>> sanding, not as tough as cutting. Happy medium. But skill is
>> necessary.
>>
>> strat81 Rich '99 SL1
>
>It is quick, Rich. But takes a VERY steady, too steady, hand to
>pull off, without leaving a wavy edge. You end up hand sanding the
>wave out anyway. But I suppose one could set up a guide, like on a
>lathe, to help steady the Dremel. Now I'm going to have to set one
>up. Rich, you jerk. :-)
Heh! I know mark uses the dremel on some (not all) edges and if
there is a wave, it gets removed when he polishes the edges.
Gene Miller
get waves. You will however have to clean up the slope into the bed.
Gene Miller
http://www.rogersdrums.com
Rich B <ballasri@REMOVETHIS!shu.edu> wrote in message
news:392dc5e2...@news.asan.com...
Jim Dwyer
the holes and cut the bearing edges. I did a double 45 degree bearing edge
so the peak is in the middle and they turned out great.
Now for the snare beds. I am going to sand the edge off to create the snare
beds. I plan on just rounding off the edge to create the bed. Will this
work or is it better to have a sharp edge along the snare beds. I have the
drunm assembled and I will start with a small bed and see what it sounds
like and go from there. how long should the bed be? I figure a cople of
inches will do it.
Jim
"-MIKE-" <radc...@ohio.edu> wrote in message
news:sii8v4...@news.supernews.com...
> >> CUT: Fast, but dangerous. Use a small (mini) hand planer or very
sharp
> >> utility knife. Draw the blade towards you, along the circumference of
> >> the : shell. This takes mucho skill, as it's easy to slip.
>
> > MAN! Mike, I can't *believe* you did this! You must have cast iron
balls!
> > Funny I didn't hear you clank when you walked at our last lodge meeting!
> >
> > I'd never have the nerve to start cutting on a finished snare with power
> > tools. Oh Man! >:-0
> >
> > Benj
>
> I always wear my custom fit, velvet lined, foam rubber nut covers.
> Lest I draw attention to myself, or advances from Rob. (:cD
>
-MIKE-
The width should be at least as wide as the snares-- makes sense.
If you just use a flat, hard sanding block, it will take the bed
down flat. As you move downward into the 90 degree bearing edge, it
will start to flatten out and get thicker and thicker (the bearing
edge) as it takes away the sharpness of the edge.
If you only go to a depth of 3/32", the bearing edge should only end
up at 3/16" thick at that depth. That should have no adverse effect
on the snare sensitivity.
If you like, you can then round that over or even sharpen it. But
in my experience, that's not really necessary.
You will want to finish sand the whole thing, along with the "ramps"
on each end of the snare bed.
-MIKE-
--
RMMP Charity Snare Drum Raffle Site:
http://mikedrums.com/raffle.html
> OK I have the drum all ready to cut the snare bed. I have drilled all of