Based purely on my own experimentation with putting up walls, I'd say
homasote.
--
Nick Delonas
My band: http://ironia.net
My cult: http://cultv.com
>
> Which is the better soundproofing material at 200-400 Hz, homasote or
> sheetrock?
>
> thanks
homasote.
if you are trying to soundproof, save yourself a lot of headache and
expense, and get a set of electric drums. Slap the drummer around, tell
him he's using those drums or you will get someone else who will, then
turn everybody way the fuck down. that works infinitely better than any
soundproofing.
Hopoate is better than homasote -- try it.
Pain in the ass to work with, from what I hear.
Neither. 200-400Hz is a low frequency band that can dealt with in one
of two ways: a resonant or acoustic absorber, or lots of mass. Given
your choices, several layers of drywall would be the better option.
>
>Which is the better soundproofing material at 200-400 Hz, homasote or
>sheetrock?
>
>thanks
So there you go, either drywall, homesote or don't use anything and
turn down. Ya gotta love it. I used homesote under thick
drywall..hard to paint homesote. I'm pretty happy with the results.
Tom
>
>Which is the better soundproofing material at 200-400 Hz, homasote or
>sheetrock?
>
>thanks
There's some discussion about this (and other soundproofing
questions), on the Q&A Soundproofing Forum:
http://www.soundproofing.org/wwwboard/wwwboard.html
BJ Nash
Try http://www.soundproofing.org for lots of soundproofing info
It order to "stop" sound, you need density and air-space. Sheetrock is
dense, and is good. Homasote is not dense, and by itself will not really
help at all. However, homasote sandwiched between sheetrock may help.
Airspace however seems to be the real secret weapon. Build a sheetrock wall
filled with batt insulation, and then build a second sheetrock wall several
inches away from the first (so that it does not touch the first wall at
all)... doing so will yield excellent attenuation given the amount of
material used. The airspace and/or decoupling factor really seems to make a
VERY large difference. Frame out that extra inside wall... its worth
t. -dave
: If I may add to that ... two layers of sheetrock per wall works _much_
: better than one. The added rigidity decreases both resonating and acoustic
: transfer ... especially on the inside wall. Also, you can't emphasize
: enough the part where the two walls must not touch. Any coupling will cause
: the isolation to drop (that includes wall plugs, windows, etc).
If you want to compare various construction techniques, including 2 layers,
check out these sites. I found them quite useful to make a decision.
http://fox.cisti.nrc.ca/irc/bsi/85-3_E.html
http://www.thomasregister.com/olc/asi-stop/
http://www.gp.com/gypsum/assemblies/woodframewall.html
The last one gives you STC ratings for all sorts of framing and wall
coverings. Note that resilent channel is highly effective. You can
buy it at commercial drywall suppliers.
Gary Watts
I thought that was "homoyoudont"
:-)
Tom
Frank
Usaman wrote:
> No question about it, Dave's advise is right on...they do sell metal
> spacrers just for this purpose...forget what they're called but
Z strips.
there is another name too, I've forgotten. Starts with an R.
anyway, yeah, use this junk between yer layers of drywall or homesote. Its sort
of like spring mounting yer wall.
I find myself intrigued by what you have to say. Please abet me to your
fundamentalist.
Rob
>> No question about it, Dave's advise is right on...they do sell metal
>> spacrers just for this purpose...forget what they're called but
>
>Z strips.
>
>there is another name too, I've forgotten. Starts with an R.
Resiliant channel.
Cheers,
Don
--
Idyllwild Brewing Company
When dealing with sound one must consider the frequencies involved. Low
frequencies are a problem because they make the entire structure
vibrate, and hence either a large mass or very stiff wall is needed to
stop them. Higher frequencies are more effectively dealt with via
absorption. Multiple isolated layers are effective against both high
and low frequncies, if the individual layers are reasonably effective in
the frequency range of concern.
One thing to keep in mind is that often blocking some of the sound is
worse than no blocking at all. In particular, I've noticed that with
rock music, if you block out the higher and mid frequencies then the low
frequencies really throb, whereas if you let some of the mid-high
frequencies through then it's closer to "white noise" and you notice it
less.
Now that's interesting, but wouldn't it be very difficult to tune the
output of a partially sound-insulated room/bldg like that? Or would
you simply isolate as much frequency as you can, across the board,
then adjust to allow some mid-highs though after?
How about this: you set up a frequency sensor (wouldn't have to be a
super sensitive mic) and speaker/emiter on the outside of the
room/bldg, with electronics in-between that would read the signal,
then send out duplicates (processing more than one frequency band) 180
degrees out of phase at the same amplitude, canceling it out. Install
one of these babies at all important perimeter sites
No?!? ;^)
Would you believe tapping into your neighbors TV remote signals and
keep turning the volume up on them...?
----
"I tell you the more I think, the more I feel that there
is nothing more truly artistic than to love people."
-- Vincent Van Gogh, in a letter to his brother
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[These opinions are personal views only and only my personal views]