How to fix warped neck?...
Teryaki
Epi LP's neck is just one big warp, pulling the headstock upwards, and
lifting the strings much farther off the fretboard than they should be.
So how do I adjust the truss rod? I know it's under the plastic cover, but
I don't have a clue which way to turn it. Should I just take it to a
professional and not dare screw with it myself? Also, do I have to take
off the strings (or at least loosen them) for the truss rod to work?
It's barely noticible when looking at it, but I suspect it'd feel quite a
bit better if the strings weren't so damn high. It's playable, though, and
the intonation is workable as-is, so this is _not_ and urgent thing.
Any help'd be welcome.
Thanx...
Tery
Les Cargill
I do this to my guitars, but that's me. It depends on how comfortable
you are
with it. It shouldn't cost too much to get a setup. The tech also might
be able
to tell you if this is a worse problem than just a truss rod adjustment.
If you adjust it, do so s-l-o-w-l-y. Take your time. Make sure you have
the right
Allen wrench or whatever's needed. Tighten the rod to take relief out,
loosen to
add relief. Righty tighty, lefty loosey, or clockwise ( looking
at the guitar through the axis of the trussrod from the headstock )to
tighten,
counterclockwise to loosen. And don't turn over a 1/4 turn.
> Any help'd be welcome.
I used to visit a store where the owner would adjust the releif *with
his knee*,
like yer gonna break a stick to build a campfire.
>
> Thanx...
>
> Tery
--
Les Cargill
http://home.att.net/~lcargill/
Michael Collins
ip.psi.net>, te...@SPAMANDDIE.earthlink.net, deciphered the clay
tablet upon which was written...
> I finally took the time to confirm something I've long suspected, that my
> Epi LP's neck is just one big warp, pulling the headstock upwards, and
> lifting the strings much farther off the fretboard than they should be.
>
> So how do I adjust the truss rod? I know it's under the plastic cover, but
> I don't have a clue which way to turn it. Should I just take it to a
> professional and not dare screw with it myself? Also, do I have to take
> off the strings (or at least loosen them) for the truss rod to work?
>
> It's barely noticible when looking at it, but I suspect it'd feel quite a
> bit better if the strings weren't so damn high. It's playable, though, and
> the intonation is workable as-is, so this is _not_ and urgent thing.
>
> Any help'd be welcome.
>
> Thanx...
>
> Tery
>
>
Fret one of the center strings at the first fret with one hand
and at the 14th fret with your other hand. Look at the amount of
space (aka relief) under the string at the 7th fret. If you can
clearly see the space, it is probably too much. Tighten the truss
rod (turn clockwise) 1/8 of a turn or less, retune, and check
again. I always detune a little before tightening the rod. If you
can't judge the space under the string very well by looking at,
which you probably won't if it is near where you want it to be,
you can see if there is any by reaching a free finger over
(keeping the string fretted 1st and 14th) and tapping on the
string. You will be able to see movement and hear the string
slapping the fret if there is any relief. Try a few different
spots because it is possible the string is straddling high frets.
No movement or slapping noise means a straight neck or backbow
and you will have to go counter clockwise with the truss rod.
Repeat until the amount of space under the string all but
disappears. You want some relief but not much. This procedure
will give you an almost straight neck with a little relief. A
little more relief than this may cut down on string buzzing a
little. Don't turn the rod more than 1/8 turn at a time. Yes it
is tedious and it sucks.
--
Mike C.