I'm a self described "mechanically challenged" type individual but
picked up the book "The guitar amp handbook: understanding amplifiers
and getting great sounds" by Dave Hunter. It's roughly $US17 and a
great bang for the buck (it's also quite a nice book w/ glossy colored
pictures). The format follows the KISS rule and there's also some
sections on building your own amplifier which too much for me.
Watts is the measure of the electrical power consumed by the amp, not the
level of sound ouput. There is a relationship between power consumed and
the amount of sound output, but it isnt necessarily 1 to 1. Im convinced my
45W Heritage is much(!) louder than my 50W marshall, for example. I
suspect the number of filters and effects as well as the efficiency of the
circuits and speakers have everything to do with the power/sound
relationship. Also, the human ear has it's own qualities that probably play
into the perception of loudness. It's no simple topic, that's for sure.
steve
--
"The accused will now make a bogus statement."
James Joyce
Hi Steve,
How did that Heritage amp work out? Are you happy with it? I'm thinking of
getting one.
Thanks,
Jim
Yep.
> You mean it's LOUDER,
Yes, and cleaner.
> or
> what do you mean? So how many Watts do I go for in what situation?
> Thanks!
For playing clean jazz I never go below 60 watts, and would rather have
100 watts or more.
40 watts is about the bare minimum and won't do well with a loud drummer
unless your amp is mic'd.
--
Joey Goldstein
http://www.joeygoldstein.com
http://www.soundclick.com/bands/joeygoldstein
joegold AT sympatico DOT ca
Meaning if you leave both turned on in different houses for 1000 hours,
the electric company will charge one house for 300 kilowatt-hours of
power consumption and the other for 40.
> Is an Acoustic Image
> really more powerful than a Fender Bassman? You mean it's LOUDER, or
> what do you mean?
Well, it apparently consumes more electricity, if the numbers you post
are to be believed - I don'[t really know the specs of these amps in
particular. Whether or not all power quoted on the spec sheet
translates directly into volume is another matter. Most likely, the
speaker(s) in the AI might not be actually using all that power - the
amp may be designed to drive *external* speakers with most of that
power. Plus some amount of that power might be dedicated to running
effects, crossover circuitry, or other things not directly related to
volume per se. But sure, all else equal, more power should translate
roughly into more volume, just as more wood on a fire roughly translates
to a brighter/hotter fire.
---------------
Marc Sabatella
ma...@outsideshore.com
Music, art, & educational materials
Featuring "A Jazz Improvisation Primer"
http://www.outsideshore.com/
A wat is just a unit of measure--"One watt is one ampere of current
flowing at one volt." Voltage and current and amerage are different
ways of measuring electricity, a watt is a unit of measure at their
interaction.
Wattage is only part of the measure of volume. if all things stay the
same --the cab, the signal going in--it takes ten times the watts to
produce double the volume. Volume levels have more to do with speaker/
cabinet efficiency than they do with wattage--a more efficient speaker
is much louder at the same number of watts. Wattage also indictaes
headroom, or the volume level you can get to before noticing
distortion, The greater the wattage, generally the more clean volume
you have available--but once again, speaker/cabinet efficiency ahs a
lot to do with it.
Amp maker lie about wattage all the time. But in general, the more
watts, the more clean volume, not necessarily the more volume. You'd
need to go to 500 watts to make a 50 watt amp sound twice as loud
> Hi Steve,
> How did that Heritage amp work out? Are you happy with it? I'm thinking
> of
> getting one.
> Thanks,
> Jim
Hi Jim:
I love it. It's remarkably true to the sound of the guitar, and has lots of
punch. Gotta watch that feedback, though, and I dont think it would be good
far anything but jazz.
steve
--
"The accused will now make a bogus statement."
James Joyce
> ---------------
> Marc Sabatella
> m...@outsideshore.com
This is totally incorrect. The AI uses highly-efficient switching
circuitry for both its power supply and power amp stages, so it draws
almost no power unless its being played at very high output levels. A
good rule of thumb is that the hotter an amp runs, the more power it's
wasting. I leave a Clarus 2R on almost all the time and it barely gets
warm. Try sticking your hand into an idling Fender Bassman and see
what happens.
The power rating of an amp is the amount it can deliver to a simulated
speaker load under specified test conditions. The amount that it draws
at full power can be slightly higher, as in the AI, or much higher, as
in almost any tube amp (and many conventional solid-state ones).
Danny W.
Amperage is analogous to the amount of water, like in cubic feet.
Voltage is analogous to the water pressure.
So, if you were trying to run a factory with a water wheel for power,
the amount of power you put in would depend on the amount of water and
the amount of water pressure.
The factory is analogous to the amplifier.
How much product the factory actually manufactures is analogous to the
loudness of the amp -- and it surely depends on more than the power
input.
BTW, the equations in basic electrical engineering (RLC circuits) are
the same equations that apply to hydraulic and mechanical systems, so
this analogy holds water.
None of the first ten replies have given you the answer you need.
1) If you're interested in the loudness of an amplification system,
that is measured in decibels, not watts. The loudness is determined in
part by the output power of the amp, but also in large part by the
sensitivity of the speaker. A low-wattage amp with a sensitive speaker
could very well be louder than a higher wattage amp with a less
sensitive speaker.
2) Also, each amplifier will have two wattage measurements. One gives
the max power consumed by the amp. The other gives the max output
power the amp is capable of. The first statistic tells you nothing
about how loud the amp is. The second stat is the relevant one for
estimating loudness.
3) Assume two combo amps, each with the exact same cab and speaker.
Will the 50 watt amp be twice as loud as the 25 watt amp? No. The
relationship between watts and decibels is not direct. Many people
argue that the general rule of thumb is that to double your loudness,
you have to increase your wattage ten-fold. So by that rule a ten watt
amp is about twice as loud as a one watt amp. A hundred watt amp is
about twice as loud as a ten watt amp.
I think there is more to it than that. Distorted tones will sound
louder than clean tones. SPL (sound pressure level) is also a
significant factor.
In short, this topic is far too complex to learn about from a
newsgroup.
Sorry, didn't mean Mike. He posted while I was writing.
True. But in practice, the RMS rating that most amplifier manufacturers
give their amps is a pretty good guide as to what to expect.
A 22 watts RMS amp won't have much headroom.
An 80 watts RMS amp will much more.
Both amps may seem to be capable of getting almost just as loud as each
other, but the 22 watt amp will be distorting well before the 80 watt amp.
> Not simple topic for sure, when you get done with Watts, you'll have
> to get into Ohms as well, too confusing for me.
I have resistance to the whole topic.
> > Not simple topic for sure, when you get done with Watts, you'll have
> > to get into Ohms as well, too confusing for me.
>
> I have resistance to the whole topic.
Shocking!
>On 6-Mar-2007, smacked up and reeling, Tim McNamara <tim...@bitstream.net>
>blindly formulated
>the following incoherence:
>
>> > Not simple topic for sure, when you get done with Watts, you'll have
>> > to get into Ohms as well, too confusing for me.
>>
>> I have resistance to the whole topic.
>
>Shocking!
When stressed, I always meditate. Ohm ........
-------------------------------------------------------
Is it not strange that sheep's guts should hale
souls out of men's bodies?
Willie 'The Lion' Shakespeare
-------------------------------------------------------
> On 6-Mar-2007, smacked up and reeling, Tim McNamara
> <tim...@bitstream.net> blindly formulated the following incoherence:
>
> > > Not simple topic for sure, when you get done with Watts, you'll
> > > have to get into Ohms as well, too confusing for me.
> >
> > I have resistance to the whole topic.
>
> Shocking!
Some people don't pick up on it, though.
Another strange phenomenon is that class A tube amps seem louder
(again, in my excperience) than comparable class A/B push-pull tube
amps. Don't ask me why. All I know is that my Bruno Underground 30
sounds WAY louder than you'd ever think a 30 Watt amp could be.
Certainly as loud as a 50 Watt Bassman. Same w/ Vox AC30's and
similar class A designs.
And the reason tube amps are bigger and heavier has to do w/ the
transformers. Bigger power transformers, plus they need an output
transformer. Lots of wire wrapped around iron core = more weight,
bigger box.
Gantt
My-Ohm-y, these are bad :-)
Bg
While we're on the subject, how does a "2 x 25 watt amp" like a Fender
Princeton Chorus, compare to a 50 watt amp? I don't really understand
what "2 x ___" means compared to a conventional amp.
Norm
Gantt
That'll be me.
> but this has been my experience) sound
> louder than a 100 watt solid state amp.
A 50 watt tube amp will already be breaking up at the volume needed to
play block chords with a loud drummer, especially with a dark tone.
A 100 watt solid state amp will be able to cover that.
However, a 50 watt solid state amp will sound worse at the same volume
because it too will be breaking up but with less pleasing overtones.
A 100 watt Poltone Mini Brute can player louder and cleaner than any 50
watt tube amp.
But a 50 watt tube amp driven into distortion can get louder than the PT
period.
This has been my experience.
Gantt
On Mar 7, 12:01 am, Joey Goldstein <nos...@nowhere.net> wrote:
> A 50 watt tube amp will already be breaking up at the volume needed to
> play block chords with a loud drummer, especially with a dark tone.
> A 100 watt solid state amp will be able to cover that.
> However, a 50 watt solid state amp will sound worse at the same volume
> because it too will be breaking up but with less pleasing overtones.
> A 100 watt Poltone Mini Brute can player louder and cleaner than any 50
> watt tube amp.
> But a 50 watt tube amp driven into distortion can get louder than the PT
> period.
>
> This has been my experience.
> Joey Goldsteinhttp://www.joeygoldstein.comhttp://www.soundclick.com/bands/joeygoldstein
-Keith
Portable Changes, tips etc. at http://home.wanadoo.nl/keith.freeman/
e-mail only to keith DOT freeman AT orange DOT nl
Thank you for the deluge of email on this topic. As the one who posted
this thread, I have really learned a lot about Watts.
khean
So it may well be that Fuchs 50 watt amps have more headroom than a
typical 50 tube power amp, but it probably has more to do with the way
the power amp is designed than anything else.
Still, *most* 50 watt tube amps break up at volumes where a Ss 100 watt
amp wouldn't, like playing a block chord solo in a band with a loud
drummer. But if you're at that point where the SS amp is breaking up
it's a much uglier sound than the tube amp breaking up.
--
Joey Goldstein
http://www.joeygoldstein.com
I don't mean to correct you, but I don't think that's accurate Gantt.
You don't get more power when you reduce the ohmage, you get more
amperage. The wattage stays virtually the same. Wattage can be figured
a couple of ways, current squared times ohmage, current times voltage
is another. The point is that you can't make more power, and so if you
have less resistance (4 ohms instead of 8 ohms) then you simply have
more amperage, not power (watts).
What I find interesting is that many amps are rated differently. By
that I mean one amp states 50 watts at 4 ohms, the next amp says 50
watts at 8 ohms. In theory it shouldn't matter what the ohmage is, but
in practice amps have slightly less than linear power curves. So you
see weird things like 50 watts at 4 ohms and 55 watts at 8 ohms for
the same amp. Some of your more high end amps will spec it this way.
But at the end of the day it still is only a reference to loudness,
not a perfect relationship. I have a Fender Acoustisonic amp that's 30
amps that'll easily be louder than a lot of 50 watt amps I've heard.
But as Gantt said, it's more important to match the output power for a
one to one relationship. So if your amp has an 8 ohm output, you
should try to make sure that you always load it with 8 ohm loads
(that's one 8 ohm load, not three 8 ohm loads). Hook that up to a 2
ohm load and crank up the volume and you might be taking it to the
repair shop pretty soon.
Maybe to much tech stuff there but hope that helps.
Ron
Ohms Law states that I (current in amperes) = V (voltage) / R
(resistance).
Watts are calculated by W = V x I.
So, for an example, a 100 watt amp (like my old Mesa MK II) would
read
about 28.3 volts into an 8 ohm load. Into a 4 ohm load the voltage
wouldn't change much (in practice it does a little, but not enough to
affect the outcome significantly), so more current would flow.
So, if W = V x I or, doing a little algebra on it, V squared divided
by R, then 28.3v squared = about 800 divided
by 8 Ohms = 100 Watts; divided by 4 Ohms = 200 Watts.
I'm pretty sure the math is right...
But since 4 6L6's can't REALLY put out more than 100 Watts safely,
they'd be overloaded trying and the excess current would overheat the
output transformer. In a solid state amp the output transistors would
allow more current to flow
than they're safely designed for and would overheat and ultimately
fail.
Formulae courtesy Wikipedia, since I can barely remember what color
socks I put on this morning!
Gantt
Okay, now I had to get the pencil and paper out!
Yep, all you stated looks right, but it's still puzzling. In a
transformer, if you double the current you halve the voltage
maintaining the power available to the transformer (for the most
part). I've never measured the voltage directly on a speaker so I
would have expected it to drop fairly significantly with the increased
current flow. This assumes the amp is at full volume, things aren't
clipping, etc. And yes I would expect things to start to fail with the
lowered resistance and now high current.
Did you ever see a power curve for an amp that states its wattage over
a full range? I haven't, just the specs they put out which don't give
the whole picture. That's why I don't like that now they don't spec it
at the standard 8 ohm load, they seem to pick 4 ohms or some other
ohmage that makes it not a one to one comparison. Without seeing a
full power curve or at least a spec at the same ohmage you don't
really know the wattage for comparison reasons.
Your voltage measurements seem to be the key. Do you know the voltage
drop when you go from 8 ohms to 4 ohms? I just don't understand why
not a significant drop in voltage.
I'm used to figuring wattage in the area of big power items like
transformers, UPS's etc. So the wattage from an amp and to a speaker
seems to be defying my rules of thumb!
Interesting conversation though!
Ron
This was mentioned before but again the Power Consumed by an amp in
Watts
is how much energy consumption the amp requires to do what it does.
The power
output of an amp in watts applies to the signal (from the guitar in
this case) being
delivered to and by the speaker.
Ouch, I tried to forget about this stuff when I quit
electronicking....
ref the Acoustic Image Clarus....yeah, this is a good (make that great
thing)..as electric
bills go up the switch mode power supplies used in the Clarus make
things nicer on your
pocket.....it is true, the signal Watts are higher than the watts it
takes to make the amp
run....UNLIKE my Fender super reverb which puts out 40 watts and uses
much, much more
to work....but then I like the tone...a lot!
John
These are common arguments but a watt is a watt--it's a unit of
measure. It's like saying "stainless steel teaspoons are bigger than
plastic teaspoons." A "watt" is a unit of measure. "Tube watts" and
"SS watts" are the same thing. So why do people think tube amps are
louder? A ton of reasons. First, there's the cab issue--once again,
the speaker has more to do with volume than the amp. To doa real
comparison, you'd have to run a tube head and an SS head into the same
cab. And then people always forget that watts and decibels are not the
same thing--all things being equal, it takes ten times the watts to
produce twice the apparent volume. So it's no surprise that a 100 watt
SS head does not much sound louder than a 25 watt Deluxe. It would
have to be 250 watts to sound twice as loud into the same cab.
Finally, there's perception. People perceive tube amps to be louder, I
think because in distortion, the signal is clipped--the harmonic range
is reduced, the highs and lows are cut off and you get a big wall of
solid midrange. midrange is where human hearing is most sensitive, by
far. We hear it better. It sounds louder, even if a decebel meter
would not show it as louder. As a bass player, I've seen this 1000
times--if you boost the bass you muddy up the mix and dont' sound any
louder, but if you boost the low mids and cut bass and treble viola!
you sound louder and more distinct, even though your volume hasn't
gone up. Bass players, am I right?
So A watt is a watt. It's hugely complicated by the differences in
cabs, by the fact that amp makers lie, and by the way the ear hears.
And then by the fact that people almost can't help thinking that a 100
watt amp is going to be twice as loud as a 50 watt amp, when in fact
it would need to be 500 watts.
Headroom--I have a little 18 watt all tube ampeg jet--that thing does
not want to distort. You have to really crank it to ten and even then
it won't do a heavy overdrive tone. Other amps can't wait to start
clipping. It's not just the tubes--it's the power and output
transformers, the biasing scheme, the preamp gain the kind of
rectifier, etc.
This thing with Watts becomes clearly confusing when you consider
todays Boom Boxes. In (I think it was the late 60's or early 70's)
laws were passed to require
fairness in labelling electronic devices. There was a period back then
when consumer stereo stuff was being rated in Watts by different
standards. You could have
two identical systems and one would be rated at maybe 300W and the
other at 50W. By the mid-late 70's the rules were in place and for a
long time you could
look at output Watts of sound systems and accept that you were getting
a reasonable comparison of that. Sometime in the past several years
this has all eroded
again and now you can find Boom Boxes rated at 285W when under the
(fair rating system) that same item would be rated at far less Watts.
So far as I know this
hasn't penetrated into the guitar amp world and hopefully never will.
What?
-Keith
Portable Changes, tips etc. at http://home.wanadoo.nl/keith.freeman/
gantt
On Mar 7, 3:19 pm, "E7sus9" <ronsgui...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Okay, now I had to get the pencil and paper out!
>
The cab issue is a valid one too. I once owned an Acousic 134. 100
solid state watts into 4 crappy 10" speakers. I ended up hating it,
but during the brief time I had it I did an experiment. I plugged it
into our bass player's 4-12 Marshall cabinet. What a difference! A
vast improvement. I run my Fuchs mod Bassman head into a 2-12 cab
that Mojotone built for me. Lock-joint 3/4" pine box w/ 5/8" baffle
held on by four screws with 2 of the old Mesa Black Shadow 12"
Celestions. It's a great sounding cabinet. I'm convinced that the
light-weight baffle w/ only 4 screws is a big part of the sound. It
almost seems to breath. Big, bright and full sounding w/ great
dispersion on stage. My Mesa amps and cabinets (all 3/4" plywood w/
glued and screwed 3/4" baffles) always sounded loud, tight and boxy
(also had the dispersion of a laser beam).
So is a Watt a Watt? Theoretically, yes, but why does a 30 Watt class
A amp sound so damn loud? Maybe because the gentle onset of distortion
w/ a class A circuit lets you use more of the power? I dunno...
Gantt
>For decades I have gone through Life without bothering to lean about
>what it really means when they say an amplifier is X Watts or Y
>Watts. And then now I learn that a tiny Acoustic Image is 300 Watts
>while my giant Fender Bassman is 40 Watts. Can somebody, please
>explain clearly to me, right from the beginning, the ABCs of Watts.
>Are there different ways of measuring Watts? Is an Acoustic Image
>really more powerful than a Fender Bassman? You mean it's LOUDER, or
>what do you mean? So how many Watts do I go for in what situation?
>Thanks!
Actually, it is pretty easy, but it is not simple.
"Watts" in "power output" of an amp refers to the amount of power an
amplifier will deliver into a specified load (speaker). Your bassman
is specified for 8 ohms (I suppose--I'm not sure), and most solid
state amps today are specified for 4 ohms. A SS amp rated at 400w into
4 ohms will deliver about 250w into 8 ohms. For a GIVEN SPEAKER,
loudness is proportional to the logarithm of power. I.e., double the
power and the loudness is doubled.
Differences in speaker efficiency adds a confusion factor. Open back
cabinet speaker can be designed to be more efficient such that 40
watts in a open back amp can be very loud. A problem is that these
speakers cannot be used in tuned or closed back cabs. Another problem
is that open back cabs are problematical with hollowbody
guitars--resulting in feedback at lower volumes than when using a
properly designed closed back cabinet.
The AI amps are really that powerful. These amps are high tech,
whereas the bassman is 50's technology. There will always be folks who
prefer the "warm" sound of tubes (which in most cases is due to the
preamp tone circuits and has nothing to do with tube vs solid
state--the only significant difference happens when they are driven
near their limits). The AI amps are powerful enough that headroom
should just practically never be an issue!
Everyone should have an AI amp. Half of the problem is solved.
Converting all that enormous power into acoustic power (sound) is the
job of the speaker. Now here I am referring to clean sound, and not
the extra speaker coloration *desired* by some, mostly non-jazz,
players. But for clean sound, there are some modern speakers that do a
nice job of converting that 250 to 400 watts into prodigious acoustic
power--even 8 inch speakers! Consideration has to be given to lower
frequecies having more limitations due to cone travel, etc. but in
general there is no reason to expect to require a larger speaker to
handle more power within this power range for jazz guitar.
There are some very slight efficiency advantages to a larger cone
diameter, all else being equal, but there are other effects that are
more important in the tradeoff of speaker size. For one, a larger
speaker usually requires a bigger enclosure. Otherwise bad things
happen, such as "boomy", "honk" and other terms that refer to humps in
the frequency response resulting from mismatched speaker drivers with
enclosure volume. All speakers are not equal. Some 10" speaker are
very happy in a ported 1 cubic foot enclosure, and others really need
3x that volume to avoid the undesirable humps.
A last point relates to peak power vs RMS power (more or less the same
as average power). Peak power handling of the amp and speaker are
probably more important for the jazz guitarist than RMS power, since
the peak to average ratio of clean music is fairly high. Eg, passage
with 300 w peaks may have only a 75 to 100 watt average. Overdrive
changes thing dramatically, with peak to average approaching one.
dave
I still prefer clean, but there are those who love the sound of tubes
on the verge of overdrive.
dave
and the Good News! FETS and MOSFETS are solid state devices that have
tubelike characteristics.
They consume little power relative to tubes and are the backbone of
tone in amps like the Clarus.
The other biggy that saves power from the electric company in amps
like the Clarus is the switch
mode power supply. It takes from the power company just what is needed
instantaneously to provide
the power you NEED from your guitar! (no, I don't work for them)
Walter Woods and others are the
same. I love the sound of all tube amps and have two of them that I
regularly use. However a tube
stage (like an ART tube MP) with a really good tube in it in front of
an amp like a Clarus is a great
way to go, especially for clean.
> Dave has hit upon THE key point when it comes to why people feel 'tube
> watts' are louder than 'Transitor watts'. It's all about compression
> and how each device behaves as you approach clipping.
>
> 1) Tubes tend to naturally compress as they approach their maximum
> output. As they compress, the average output power increases (thus the
> 'volume' you hear) while the peak does not. Tradistional RMS power
> measurements don't really apply because what used to be a sine wave,
> isn't any more because it's compressed. You can demonstrate this using
> a decent compressor and a transistor power . Set te compressor to
> limit at a level just below the point where the transitor amp is
> clipping. Now turn your source up. The volume is getting louder, but
> tere's no clipping. Voila! - Clean Headroom.
>
> 2) When tubes clip, they product even harmonics - which in small
> doses, sound sweet. When transistors clip, they produce odd hamronics
> that sound like ass in any amount. So, transistor amps should never be
> run into clipping, where as tube amps do it all the time. That's why
> the Clarus needs 300 watts to sound as loud as the 30 watt Bassman.
>
> End of my sermon. Brian
>
Item 2 needs further elaboration.
Single transistor and valve/tube preamp stages have surprisingly
similar characteristics, both producing a lot of even harmonics
because of their asymmetry. The valve stage has a relatively low
voltage gain and a high input impedance and is easy to bias. The
transistor stage has a lowish input impedance, an excessively high
voltage gain and its bias is much more temperature sensitive.
In practice, the valve stage can be used on its own and the transistor
stage is almost always elaborated to include many transistors with
feedback to define the gain, e.g. an Op Amp.
When the the relatively low gain valve stage is overdriven, it
initially produces a waveform without sharp edges as it first goes
into clipping, adding mostly 2nd and 3rd harmonics. Further
overdriving will sharpen the edges, but this doesn't happen until
quite a few dB above the onset of clipping.
The multi-transistor stage with feedback, on the other hand, follows
the input waveform nearly perfectly until some part of its internal
circuitry is well into clipping, at which point the feedback fails and
the output waveform steps sharply into clipping. The sharp edges on
the waveform represent high harmonics which are clearly audible and
objectionable. The transition from clean to grossly overloaded happens
with a tiny change in input level.
Overloading the power stage of a valve amp is thought by many to give
the best distorted sound, but push - pull output stages, as used in
most valve amps above a few watts, produce predominantly _odd_
harmonics. If they are perfectly balanced, there can be no even
harmonics at all.
Arthur
--
Arthur Quinn
real-email arthur at bellacat dot com
Man, you're on the ball. I said it wrong. Loudness is proportional to
power :-{ The point I was trying to make is that going from 20w to
30w has the same effect, as perceived by the ears, as going from 200w
to 300w.
dave
> Not simple topic for sure, when you get done with Watts, you'll have
> to get into Ohms as well, too confusing for me.
Abbot and Costello had a "What's [Watts] amps?" routine similar to the
"who's on first" thing. Pretty funny.
--
"The accused will now make a bogus statement."
James Joyce
There's never been anything louder than my old Marshall 50 was. They
had to repaint the walls in the places I played at.