mic'ing technique
sheets
on the last several videos I've done (www.sheetsofsound.net/
demos.html) and/or www.youtube.com/sheetsofsound but wondering if
Gaant or someone else with real recording expertise would chime in.
I've been using an SM57 mic pointed at the edge of the speaker cone
and a condenser mic about a foot away to get a little air. I was told
that putting the sm57 above the cab and pointing straight down will
give a more realistic sound similar to what the ear is hearing.
Thoughts?
gant...@comcast.net
contemporary rock. He suggests putting on headphones and listening to
the background noise of the amp while moving the mike around in front
of the speaker. He believes that where you hear the most hi frequency
presence in the amp noise you'll get the best sound. Someone once
told me that Stevie Ray Vaughn had an "X" of duct tape in the center
of his speaker and had his soundman aim the mike at the tape. I've
found that you can sometimes move a mike 1" to either side and
drastically change the sound you're getting from a close miked
speaker. A lot also depends on what choices you have for mikes. I
usually use an EV RE20 or an old Crown CM200 placed mid way between
the center and the edge of the cone. aimed towards the center as a
starting place. I tend to like a flatter mike than an SM57. For the
room mike I've tried placing it up where my head is in omni or figure
8 (using a large diaphragm condenser like an AKG 414 or a Neumann
U87). I've also placed the 2nd mike at the back of the cabinet,
sometimes high, sometimes low. My experience is that the sound of an
electric guitar is not so much the sound coming out of the speaker but
the sound of the speaker cabinet in the room so the placement of the
room mike is an important factor. You need to experiment to find the
sweet spot. With a 2 mike setup you also have to be careful to listen
for phase problems.
Gantt
On Mar 17, 2:26 pm, sheets <jackzuc...@gmail.com> wrote:
> Looking for tips on mic'ing. I'm getting pretty good results (i think)
> on the last several videos I've done (www.sheetsofsound.net/
> demos.html) and/orwww.youtube.com/sheetsofsoundbut wondering if
Joey Goldstein
I've always pointed the SM-57 right at the cone, but off axis.
It always sounds just like what I want to hear when I do that.
I usually hate hearing room sound. It's like having a bad sounding comb
filter in my FX loop.
--
Regards
http://www.joeygoldstein.com
gant...@comcast.net
times the distance from the source as the 1st mic) then any comb
filtering is more a function of the sound of the room. Creating a
good sounding recording space is a whole 'nother can of worms. Also a
potentially expensive can of worms, although a creative DIY kind of
guy can get a lot of mileage out of common household stuff like
overstuffed chairs and couches (poor mans' absorbers) and bookcases
with many different sizes of books and some gaps (poor mans'
diffuser). I've built most of my own acoustic treatment relatively
inexpensively.
Gantt
Gerry
<gant...@comcast.net> said:
> I've built most of my own acoustic treatment relatively
> inexpensively.
Out of what?
--
Dogmatism kills jazz. Iconoclasm kills rock. Rock dulls scissors.
gant...@comcast.net
http://www.insulationworld.com/prodView.asp?idproduct=631.
The Insulation World stuff is a bit denser than the 703 and, I
believe, cheaper. I frame around the 2' x 4' sheets w/ 1" pine board
from Home Depot, cover the panels w/ burlap and hang them on walls and
from the ceiling. I have a fair amount of foam on my walls too but
it's not cheap, it's nowhere near as absorbent and it begins to fall
apart after a while.
Here are links for acoustic design:
http://www.johnlsayers.com/phpBB2/index.php
http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
Gantt
On Mar 18, 1:41 am, Gerry <somewh...@sunny.calif> wrote:
> Out of what?
> --
> On 2008-03-17 18:14:41 -0700, "ganttm...@comcast.net"
Gerry
RickH®
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
I did my home theatre with Manville rigid fiberglass panels about 6lb/
cu ft density, they come in 1 or 2 inch thicknesses in 4x8 foot
sheets. Cut them to size, upholster them with spray adhesive and
fabric (I hot iron the fabric on with 3M 77 spray adhesive nice and
flat), you can frame the finised panels or just hang them. And best
of all its fireproof, (unlike audex or sonex), and it absorbs well
into the bass range which a sonex panel will not. You can even spray
glue several panels together if you need a real thick panel, my wife
picked out the upholstery fabric.
Got em here locally:
http://www.fabricationspecialties.com/fg.html
I used Whispertone and the Tackboard (scroll down) for the areas where
people may bump into.
Rigid fiberglass is widely used in HVAC and refrigeration projects
where equipment needs to be insulated with rigid material. Not your
typical Home Depot stuff IOW, any local insulation supply house can
get them. Beats paying outrageous prices for pre-upholstered
fiberglass panels that are the same material.
gant...@comcast.net
fiberglas absorber. It makes the asborber work a bit more
efficiently.
Gantt
RickH®
wrote:
>
> - Show quoted text -
I sort of did that for bass traps in the corners behind the
subwoofer. I fastened the rigid stuff over the studs which were
already stuffed with low density batting fiberglass, then concrete
(its a basement). The bass wave is weakened by the reflection off the
concrete both in and out of the rigid panel, its amazing how smooth
and extended the bass response got in that room after I treated it. I
liked having raw materials too so I could custom cut to the exact
sizes needed, instead of pre-made panels in stock sizes. Its
basically a "live end" / "dead end" room as I put most of the
absorbtion on the speaker mains half and left the back of the room
somewhat reflective with only a small amount of absorption.