How do you open a Cube 60?
Andy
My Roland Cube 60 is doing my head in. The nuts that keep the input
jacks in place are plastic shite and keep breaking. Now the jack's
gone and fallen into the body and I can't seem to find it, let alone
get it out. It's such a stupid thing that I don't want to go to
through all the hoo-ha of sending it to LA to get a repair done -- but
I can't work out how to open the $@##&#!@ thing!
Anyone know how it's done?
Cheers,
Andy
Charlie X
jacks...cube 30 60 and the rest...all crap jacks.
and they are not responding with an upgrade...no idea how to fix this
junk.
hear my soundclips at http://charliex.org
tomb...@jhu.edu
> Dear RMMGJ,
>
> My Roland Cube 60 is doing my head in. The nuts that keep the input
> jacks in place are plastic shite and keep breaking. Now the jack's
> gone and fallen into the body and I can't seem to find it, let alone
> get it out. It's such a stupid thing that I don't want to go to
> through all the hoo-ha of sending it to LA to get a repair done -- but
> I can't work out how to open the $@##&#!@ thing!
It's really quite easy. You take a thin prybar and insert it in that
little crack. You begin to gently work the prybar, taking it very soft
and easy, until the opening gets a little bigger. Then you take a
bigger prybar and insert it about six inches. Have a helper safely
secure the amp to the floor. Then jump on that big prybar. You may
hear a loud cracking noise and the sound of metal tearing. That's
entirely normal when prying these amps open using this technique.
Chickenhead
Britney Spears here - They'd probably just put in another plastic Piece of
Shite nut that would break.
<tomb...@jhu.edu> wrote in message
news:1186767598.5...@i13g2000prf.googlegroups.com...
Andy
> Britney Spears here - They'd probably just put in another plastic Piece of
> Shite nut that would break.
Exactly, which is why I want to do it myself and replace it with a
metal one. Now, how to I get the effing back off!?!?!?!!
Seriously, though, these amps sound great, but totally incapacitated
for the sake of a 45 cent part? That's stupid design.
Cheers,
Andy
Bahnzo
> Seriously, though, these amps sound great, but totally incapacitated
> for the sake of a 45 cent part? That's stupid design.
No, that's the American Way(TM)! Making a product with cheap parts
that break and require $100 to service is what makes this country
great.....
-Ken
blackcat
At last, the problem is surfacing. I commented on this in a post
months agao and everyone was so enamoured with the otherwise excellent
product that it went by un-noticed. Harmony Reviews I kept reading
that 'This thing is built like a tank' and 'It's a Boss/Roland I'll
never need to contact them' etc. that I just switched off. The fact is
that when I had the Cube 30 - same problem with moderate use, I
contacted the UK Customer Service (sic) Dept and got the usual
defensive/evasive crap as in ' We must do this to conform to EU safety
regs' Look at Marshall - they do the same' ( so that's OK then!!! ).
Fact is that no professional amp maker would do this and their
attitude is a joke/travesty. My Laney ( also UK made has plastic hex.
nuts but...a metal core to the jack.Solution ( Cube problem ) =
Superglue the plastic nut after flooding the jack PCB
with.......Superglue. Sad isn't it.
IS ANYONE SENDING THESE POSTS TO ROLAND IN THE US AND EUROPE??
Bon chance!
David
Andy
> IS ANYONE SENDING THESE POSTS TO ROLAND IN THE US AND EUROPE??
>
By God, sir, you're right. This should be addressed. I got the usual
fob off from customer service a while back -- they invited me to mail
it over to LA (from the east coast) at my own expense, but warned me
that if I tried to do anything myself, I'd invalidate the warranty.
That includes having them send me a new hex nut. Mental.
ott...@hotmail.com
switch to see if it's threaded the same way and just use that, or are
the dimensions different.
Bg
da...@redstoneaudio.com
Have you tried removing the 4 screws on each side of the cabinet near
the top? This appear to hold the chassis in place.
dave
blackcat
Pointless I'm afraid, the inner threaded part that the nut screws onto
is................plastic!!
David
oasysco
>From the pix I see online, the amp appears to have the chassis on top
so you can just unscrew it as Dave R says with the 4 screws on each
side. the chassis should lift out allowing you to disconnect the
speaker from the inside before you completely remove the chassis.
Now, as to the input jack itself. Good luck. You may well find the
jack sandwiched between PC boards and a bear to get to. You won't know
until you pull the chassis, though.
To put the chassis back, you may be better off laying the amp on its
side as you line up the 4 holes on each side of the chassis with the
cab.
Greg
jazzgeetar
something. Hopefully my Cube 30 keeps going for a while.
-Dan
Norm K
Me too -- I just bought a Cube 30 that I am liking a lot. After
seeing this discussion I noticed that my Peavey Studio Pro also
appears to have plastic inputs. At least they look the same as on the
Cube -- black, not shiny metallic. And solid state Peaveys seem to
have a reputation as the industry standard in reliability. Have
American auto makers secretly taken over these amp companies?!?!
Norm
Gerry
> Geez, I guess Roland considers these amps somewhat disposable or
> something.
In the end, everything is disposable.
> Hopefully my Cube 30 keeps going for a while.
> -Dan
--
///---
tom walls
> On 2007-08-15 07:00:26 -0700, jazzgeetar <jazzgee...@gmail.com> said:
>
> > Geez, I guess Roland considers these amps somewhat disposable or
> > something.
>
> In the end, everything is disposable.
>
Greger Hoel
<andrew_mcco...@hotmail.com>:
With this badboy:
http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/f/fc/War_hammer2.jpg
--
They lived like animals; they neither smoked nor drank
ybs....@gmail.com
It's VERY simple! Remove all 8 of the screws, four from each side at the top sides of the box. 4 machine screws go through the side of the box into the amp on each side. Once you take out those 8 screws, there is nothing holding the amp in place except a snug fit and some foam tape up top. Using the 2 plastic hooks that hold the power cable in place when transporting, pull left, then right and wiggle it loose until it's close to coming out, then reach in and unplug the 2 speaker wires. The large one can be tight, so don't do it without getting a 2nd hand in there to hold back the speaker plug from ripping out.
Once this is done, your home free. Pull it out. Mine is quite new, but just outside of warranty and of course, with only maybe 30 hours on it total, the modeling channel no longer does a thing. It's as if it's stuck on the acoustic setting for good. The clean channel works, as does all the other dials (Flange, Reverb, etc) all except that 8-way knob for the different amps. The strange part is, it broke on its own so to speak. I used it, it was fine, sat it for a few weeks, went to use it again, no more modeling option.
I know these are famous for the plastic nuts failing, but this is too new to even have that problem yet. Isaw another guy that had this same problem and it turned out to only be the 8-way knob/pot. I hope that's my problem too. I may have 30 hours on it in reality. Stinks that it broke, I love the amp! Sam ash told me to bring back any amp I didn't still like after a week or two, so I did,,,,,, 3 TIMES! :) And after a Vox, and a Line6 I got this. It just sounded better, richer with an overkill feeling almost like the stacks, plus it WILL drive a 4-12 stack. I just wish Roland paid attention to the little things, and not just the major ones. Plastic nuts? C'mon......
I hope this helps somebody!
Gerry
>> Dear RMMGJ,
>>
>> My Roland Cube 60 is doing my head in. The nuts that keep the input
>> jacks in place are plastic shite and keep breaking. Now the jack's
>> gone and fallen into the body and I can't seem to find it, let alone
>> get it out. It's such a stupid thing that I don't want to go to
>> through all the hoo-ha of sending it to LA to get a repair done -- but
>> I can't work out how to open the $@##&#!@ thing!
>>
>> Anyone know how it's done?
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Andy
>>
>> www.relaxinatcamarillo.com
trying to unload it on Facebook Marketplace. I guess they aren't
making them any more. Oh joy: "Vintage". My complaint was/is that it
has the "hiss" of some kind of compression that's always there. On the
"J.C. Clean" side it is greatly diminished, as well as on the "Black
Panel" setting on the COSM amps. Still it never goes away and it's
*irksome*. There is something similar that sounds vaguely like radio
static, and not a lot of it, that is operative on the Cube Steet EX amp
that I'm now using most around the house.
Jazzer
>
> Thanks for the info. I've never bonded with my Cube-60 and now I'm
> trying to unload it on Facebook Marketplace. I guess they aren't making
> them any more. Oh joy: "Vintage". My complaint was/is that it has the
> "hiss" of some kind of compression that's always there. On the "J.C.
> Clean" side it is greatly diminished, as well as on the "Black Panel"
> setting on the COSM amps. Still it never goes away and it's *irksome*.
> There is something similar that sounds vaguely like radio static, and
> not a lot of it, that is operative on the Cube Steet EX amp that I'm now
> using most around the house.
I never had a Cube 60 but I do have a Cube 40-XL that I bought a couple
of years ago.
It's a great little amp... errr.. except for that dreaded hiss that you
mention.
I have the Cube 60's little brother too, the Cube 30, which DOES NOT
have the hiss!
This proves that they can cut out that noise!
Anyhow, I've learned to ignore the hiss when I'm playing.
When I stop playing, of course I haven't learned that trick.
Can't beat the performance-reliability/$ for these amps though.
Gerry
> Can't beat the performance-reliability/$ for these amps though.
including, apparently, the previous posters problem with the COSM
switch...