Does anybody know anything about the Epiphone Ft-165 12 String acoustic
Guitar.
I've been to the Gibson and Epiphone site with no luck.
~MIKE~
Kate Ebneter
Collector of Noise Toys
Stephen Traub wrote:
>
> It was/is a full-sized dreadnought, Model FT-165, Bard-12. They were made in
> Japan from the mid 1970's to the mid 1980s primarily during the Norlin
> years. They had a rosewood fingerboard with block inlays, 6 per side chrome
> tuners, full bound body (front and back) with herringbone design binding in
> front. It had a natural finish spruce top (solid I believe) and non-solid
> rosewood back and sides. It also came with an adjustable bridge and the
> Epiphone "e" on the pickguard.
>
> It sounded good and played well.
>
> I just sold one that I owned since the 1970s in excellent condition with the
> original softshell case for $260+- in August.
>
> Steve Traub
>
> Michael Colao wrote in message <7rhn0t$ktq$1...@nntp4.atl.mindspring.net>...
Many 12 string guitars from many manufacturers (because of the added
pressure) have meandering necks. The most durable 12 strings you will find
generally are made by Guild: many models had two truss rods in the neck and
generally Guild acoustics are built like brick outhouses anyway, so they
tend to be a good choice for a 12 string acoustic.
Steve Traub
Kate Ebneter wrote in message <37DCA0...@ix.netcom.com>...
Joe McAdam
jomickathomedotcom
Stephen Traub <str...@shore.net> wrote in message
news:B88D3.363$n82....@news.shore.net...
>This is a general question.
>
>Does anybody know anything about the Epiphone Ft-165 12 String acoustic
>Guitar.
>I've been to the Gibson and Epiphone site with no luck.
Mike--My first *good* guitar was an Epiphone FT-165 12 string. I
loved that guitar...Sold it several years ago, never stopped kicking
myself for it.
The neck is bolt-on, and this is a very handy feature in the 12
string. It can be removed and reset easily by the player. I always
kept mine tuned down to D or C sharp, and never had any real neck
problems. Replaced the stock machines with Schallers pretty early on.
Mine had a 0 fret--and the intonation was spot-on. All in all, a
great guitar for the price.
-------
"Remember when the music came from wooden boxes
Strung with silver wire" --Harry Chapin
the above e-mail address remains totally fictional.
the real one is bc9424@spamTHIS!.concentric.net (if you remove spamTHIS!.)
Bill (the poster formerly known as bc) Chandler
...bc...
bc wrote in message ...
>
>Mine had a 0 fret--and the intonation was spot-on. All in all, a
>great guitar for the price.
>
Let me guess - a 0 fret is an extra fret up by the nut. I once had a yamaha
hollow bodied electric with (I now know as a) 0 fret. I tried to get a local
tech to set it up for me but he never could get it right. The harmonic and
the 12th fret were in tune, but when (for example) I fretted the low E at
the 5th fret, it wasn't in tune with the open A.
How should such a guitar be set up? What's the purpose of a 0 fret in the
first place?
carl (now with a different guitar, and a different tech)
I'll second your opinion of the later ones, and also of Guilds.
Kate Ebneter
Collector of Noise Toys
<snippage>
>Let me guess - a 0 fret is an extra fret up by the nut. I once had a yamaha
>hollow bodied electric with (I now know as a) 0 fret. I tried to get a local
>tech to set it up for me but he never could get it right. The harmonic and
>the 12th fret were in tune, but when (for example) I fretted the low E at
>the 5th fret, it wasn't in tune with the open A.
>
>How should such a guitar be set up? What's the purpose of a 0 fret in the
>first place?
You're right--the 0 fret is right past the nut. The purpose of it is
to stop the string, right there, instead of the nut doing the job.
The effective scale length of the neck is from 0 fret to saddle,
rather than from nut to saddle. The tech just needs to be aware of
this--and not set the thing as though the nut is stopping the sound,
instead of the 0 fret. (It also makes it one helluva lot easier to
carve a new nut--especially for a 12-string.)
You might need to look around for a tech that can handle the
concept--although it really isn't nuclear science. The 0 fret should
make the intonation job easier, not harder. Somebody out here with
more experience might be able to tell you more. Anybody?