What you bought is essentially a very good guitar. It is made like a D 18 only
your guitar has Rosewood fingerboard and bridge unlike the D 18 which has
ebony. Your D 16 has much more tasteful appointment, however. Your D 16 also
has the same bracing as the
D 18 Vintage ressiue and the HD 28 Vintage reissue.
I used to own one and never should have sold it!
How much did you pay for it?
Mark
Don't the Standard Series D-18s have Rosewood fingerboards and bridges
now? I think Martin switched to these materials for style 18 in the
late '40s. Anyway, the the D-16 also has the tourtise binding, which
the old D-18s used to have (now they have black binding); however, the
D-16 has a bolt on neck. For the money, they are very nice guitars.
>
>Don't the Standard Series D-18s have Rosewood fingerboards and bridges
>now?
Affirmative. The other differences pointed out are correct as well -
basically, the D-16H is a very nicely appointed mahogany dreadnought with a
bolt-on neck. Good quality, good value. They fight tooth decay, as well.
Well, sure they do...if you're playing music, you're not cleaning out the
dessert cart, are you?
Wade Hampton Miller
BJ
Affirmative. The other differences pointed out are correct as well -
basically, the D-16H is a very nicely appointed mahogany dreadnought with a
bolt-on neck. Good quality, good value. They fight tooth decay, as well.<<<
AND it'll get you parking spaces downtown...but the original D-16H had a
dovetail neck joint.
The current 16 Series employs a glued-in mortise and tenon neck joint - the
"bolt" is acting as a clamp as the two parts of the joint are glued up. To
quote from the 8/96 issue of "The Sounding Board", "our neck attachment does in
fact utilize a brass screw and threaded insert during the process of securing
the neck in place, but unlike other 'bolt-on' neck designs that rely on a
'bolt', the '1 Series' necks that utilize our patented process are glued in
place. The brass screw serves the purpose of providing clamping pressure during
glue-up, since there is no other effective method of pulling a mortise joint
tight into the body. After the neck is glued, the brass screw could, for all
practical purposes, be removed and discarded. Instead, we have chosen to leave
it in its concealed position for extra strength directly behind the serial
number plate, which is visible through the soundhole." I've clipped the
editorial opinions that follow, as they may be viewed as provocative by some.
This is not to start yet another debate of bolt vs. mortise&tenon vs.dovetail
vs. 10 penny nails, but simply to reduce some of the confusion which
(apparently) still exists about some of our instruments.
thanks
Joe
> basically, the D-16H is a very nicely appointed mahogany dreadnought with a
> bolt-on neck. Good quality, good value.
Actually, the new D-16T is a bolt on neck. In 92-93, the D-16H was a
limited edition that had the same neck joint as all standard Martins. The
D-16H was basically a continuation of the D-16M, D-16A, etc. Which were
very popular limited editions in mahogany, ash, oak, etc. I have the
D-16H-93. Every difference between the D-16H and the D-18 is nicer on the
D-16 (fretboard and bridge inlays, scalloped bracing, herringbone rosette
and backstrip, ebony tuing buttons). I asked a guy at Elderly why the
D-16s were cheaper, and he said that the wood was not as high a grade.
Mine has some swirls in the top. Now days, people call this "bearclaw,"
and try to pass it off as something special. I think that people used to
call anything that deviated from straight grain "imperfections." Such is
marketing.
With regard to bolt-necks, I have heard that the new bolt-neck Martin
design is very similar to the neck attachment of Taylor guitars. I have
also heard that the neck is actually glued in; the bolt is just used as a
clamp while the glue dries, and it is left there since the bolt doesn't
look as bad as a hole in the endblock, and it may stabilize the neck a
bit. But I have been told that you could take the bolt out and it would
not hurt the neck joint a bit. Any truth to all of this?
Brent Graves
Marquette, MI
The D16H was not a bolt on neck. They did not start with the bolt on neck
until they introduced it in the D16T ("T" stands for Technology) This is just
another reason why the D16H will be considered fondly in the storied Martin
history.
Have you ever played one?
As I said in my original reply I used to own one and found it to be a worthy
player, so much so I currently am kicking myself for selling it!
: With regard to bolt-necks, I have heard that the new bolt-neck Martin
: design is very similar to the neck attachment of Taylor guitars. I have
: also heard that the neck is actually glued in; the bolt is just used as a
: clamp while the glue dries, and it is left there since the bolt doesn't
: look as bad as a hole in the endblock, and it may stabilize the neck a
: bit. But I have been told that you could take the bolt out and it would
: not hurt the neck joint a bit. Any truth to all of this?
I heard the same thing at a Martin clinic by Richard Starkey host locally
this week. I've no reason to doubt it. The one comment about joints that
grabbed my layman's interest
was that the mortise parts were interchangeable--any neck could
be fitted to any body--while the dovetail joints were carefully labeled
so that the proper neck and body were matched up. Don't know if this
means anything insofar as playability or sound are concerned, but it
struck me as interesting.
I'm a sinner. If I was Roman Catholic, I'd be looking at some serious
Purgatory time here.
As it is, I'm an Anglican, and they just want me to "get in touch with my
feelings" on the matter.
Wade Hampton
Wade Hampton<<<
Guitar Solo in San Francisco (415) 386-0395, has a new, unsold 1993 D-16H .
List is $1650. Excuse the spam, but it seemed timely.
Joe
Elderly sold this model in 1993 for $929.50. I know because I bought one-it's
a great guitar that is aging nicely in its 5th year./Phillip