So I wonder can any-body here recommend a better type of string for my
guitar or do you think I should stick with the Elixer?
My playing style varies from, Hybrid picking, finger picking (without picks)
and general plectrum picking without finger picking. I usually never just
strum unless I am in a folk session and even then I tend to use my guitar
for rhythm and bass picking. I also don't have a pickup in the guitar (yet )
so that might make a difference.
Any and all reasonable suggstions will be explored (providing my budget can
afford it). the Elixer strings currently run at £14.99 a set in the UK which
is a ludicrous amount of money to pay for something I have to replace every
month, sooner if I am out gigging.
Thanks
Simon Arnold
Why not use the same string type that was on it when you first
got it? I think they probably used Martin SP 80/20 light, but
you should check by looking it up on www.mguitar.com.
Al
--
Reply to al_guitar "at" clifftopmusic "dot" com
I'd been using Elixir 12's on my Taylor for a couple of years and tried
the John Pearse Phosphor Bronze on a whim. They sounded much better.
Set-up may also be an issue, if you don't do it yourself you should
find a qualified guitar tech....blah blah blah...
Kelly
Yep, that's what they use. Even Martin Marquis lights will sound better on it
than the Elixirs.
Paul
http://stringdancers.com/paulrk
Two issues: first, the string gauge.
While Martin may RECOMMEND lights on that model, I don't believe they forbid
mediums, and I don't think mediums will damage it.
Instead, I think what you have in that recommendation is Martin's perception of
what most players who will select that instrument will be geared towards, which
is probably fingerpicking.
Light strings would make sense in that application.
Another interesting presumption is one that hadn't occurred to me until I
visited the Larrivée factory a few times. The first time I visited ALL
Larrivée guitars left the factory strung with medium gauge strings, without
exception.
The next time I visited the less expensive satin finish Larrivées were leaving
strung up with lights. I asked Matt Larrivée why, and he told me that the
company's assumption was that the lower end models were being bought mostly by
beginners, and that beginners preferred light gauge strings because they were
easier on their hands. More accomplished players wanted more tone, he said, so
the mediums remained standard on the more expensive guitars.
I'm not sure I quite bought his logic, then or now, but something similar might
be afoot at Martin. The 15 and 17 Series guitars are considered lower end
models by the company.
Short version: the light strings might be as much about market positioning as
any true requirement of the instrument itself.
So I would go ahead and try the guitar with medium gauge strings, and just
WATCH it carefully to make sure there's no structural change.
The neck and action may shift somewhat, which is no big deal and is easily
corrected, but what you particularly want to watch for is any lifting of the
bridge or bellying of the top.
Even a moderate amount of bellying is no big deal, provided that it doesn't
progress.
As for the string brand itself, none of us here can really do anything more
than recommend our favorites. I endorse John Pearse strings, because I think
they're the best strings available, but my understanding is that they're quite
difficult to find in the UK. (Perhaps some British newsgroup regulars can give
us a source...)
Martin and D'Addarrio strings ought to be easy enough to find, and what you
ought to do is buy several sets in different alloys, then only keep each set on
the guitar for a week at most, so that when the next set goes on, the strings
you're replacing are still relatively fresh.
This way you can get a more valid basis of comparison, new strings replacing
fairly new strings, as opposed to letting the strings just DIE and turn to mud
before replacing them. (ANYthing sounds good after replacing truly dead
strings....)
So I guess my first step if I were you would be to get a set of Martin Marquis
mediums and put them on the guitar, to see whether it can take the additional
tension. (Which I'll bet money it CAN...)
Then go buy several sets of strings in whichever gauge you decide upon, in
different brands and alloys, and rotate them on and off the guitar in fairly
rapid succession, so that you can determine which sound best to your ears.
Hope that makes sense.
Wade Hampton Miller
Chugiak, Alaska
Remove the "Howdy" to reply...
Marc.
"Simon Arnold" <simon.p...@btinternet.com> schreef in bericht
news:cgqn4e$3nt$1...@titan.btinternet.com...
--
Warmest Regards,
Terence
www.goodacoustics.com
www.goodacoustics.co.uk
"Wade Hampton Miller" <hoj...@aol.comHowdy> wrote in message
news:20040828171329...@mb-m25.aol.com...
Hi Simon,
Lots of good advice on strings, setup, and such...but here's a guess for
something else that might be going on...
You bought a guitar made in the US, and you're keeping it in the UK, where
the humidity is substantially higher. It's also summertime, when the
humidity is peaking.
My own experience (including a few years that I lived in the UK), is that my
instruments sound dead when they get *too* humidified. The difference is
quite noticeable...they actually sound best when they're drier than they
ought to be (but it's BAD PRACTICE to keep them too dry...it will damage
them badly).
Anyway - in the English spring and summer, it might be worth keeping gelatin
packets in the case to soak up some of the excess moisture. Don't overdo
it, and make sure you check the guitar frequently for signs of dryness, but
it might help the tone. Best practice is to keep a hygrometer in the case,
but I've never been able to find an inexpensive one that's accurate enough
to do me any good. If it's any help, the guitars are built in a controlled
environment with relative humidity of 45%-55%
Cheers,
Mike Pugh
Al, the OOO-17 hasn't been made since the '60s. This is an older
instrument -- it's spruce topped and should stand up to mediums (you'd
think) but if the owner contacted Martin and they recommended lights then
he should listen to that advice.
--
Bill
reply to sirwill1 AT same domain as above
Hmmm...I was assuming it was a new instrument too. I wonder if he means the
00-17? It actually has a mahogany top, not spruce.
You're correct - there is no 000-17 in the current catalog (although there's
a 000-15, which is close).
BTW...it still sounds like a humidity issue to me.
Cheers,
Mike Pugh
my favorite strings are made in the UK - Newtones.
>ple...@nospam.us wrote:
>:
>: Why not use the same string type that was on it when you first
>: got it? I think they probably used Martin SP 80/20 light, but
>: you should check by looking it up on www.mguitar.com.
>:
>
>Al, the OOO-17 hasn't been made since the '60s. This is an older
>instrument -- it's spruce topped and should stand up to mediums (you'd
>think) but if the owner contacted Martin and they recommended lights then
>he should listen to that advice.
There were very few 000-17 guitars made before recently. There
was one made in 1911 (presumably with a spruce top because style
17 had spruce tops until 1922) and then 25 more made in 1952 (I
think these were 14-fret models) which were all-mahogany. I've
had the good fortune to play one of these.
Within the past few years style 17 re-emerged as a glossy and
bound version of the also-recently-re-introduced style 15, which
came back as a satin-finished guitar. My bad, they are not
listed on www.mguitar.com so they are out of production. I'd
still recommend the Martin SP 80/20 lights for that guitar, but
it might stand up to mediums. I was recommending what I thought
it shipped with because the OP was trying to recapture the tone
it had when he got it. If by chance it is one of the 1952 ones,
I'd use lights for sure. If it's the 1911 one, I'm interested
in seeing it.
>Within the past few years style 17 re-emerged as a glossy and
>bound version of the
What's Joe Jordan's glossy girlie man guitar a 000-16? I thought it was a 17.
00-16DB IIRC.
figures, smaller number.
> ple...@nospam.us wrote:
> :
> : Why not use the same string type that was on it when you first
> : got it? I think they probably used Martin SP 80/20 light, but
> : you should check by looking it up on www.mguitar.com.
> :
>
> Al, the OOO-17 hasn't been made since the '60s. This is an older
> instrument -- it's spruce topped and should stand up to mediums (you'd
> think) but if the owner contacted Martin and they recommended lights then
> he should listen to that advice.
>
Bill, I see that the Martin website is only listing two -17
series guitars currently, but they had more than that two or
three months ago. I know there was a 000-17 and a 000-17S
offered within the last six months. I've been keeping an eye on
those. I'm sorry to see them go. I guess the popularity of the
many permutations of the -15 and -16 series has displaced the -17.
-Raf
--
Misifus-
Rafael Seibert
mailto:rsei...@cox-internet.com
http://www.ralphandsue.com
>
> Within the past few years style 17 re-emerged as a glossy and
> bound version of the also-recently-re-introduced style 15, which
> came back as a satin-finished guitar. My bad, they are not
> listed on www.mguitar.com so they are out of production. I'd
> still recommend the Martin SP 80/20 lights for that guitar, but
> it might stand up to mediums. I was recommending what I thought
> it shipped with because the OP was trying to recapture the tone
> it had when he got it. If by chance it is one of the 1952 ones,
> I'd use lights for sure. If it's the 1911 one, I'm interested
> in seeing it.
>
> Al
The original poster said he had had the guitar a little over a
year. That could be one of the reissue 000-17 instruments. They
were really quite pretty. Santa Cruz made a similar 00-17S for
NAAM a year or so ago.
http://community.webtv.net/PintadaKid/THELONGWALK
I COMPLAINED BECAUSE I HAD NO SHOES UNTIL I MET A MAN WHO HAD NO FEET.
EL PINTADA KID ..... LUPE
Simon Arnold
"Wade Hampton Miller" <hoj...@aol.comHowdy> wrote in message
news:20040828171329...@mb-m25.aol.com...
Simon Arnold
"Bill Benzel" <nos...@netaxs.com> wrote in message
news:tX6Yc.601$Fg2.1...@newshog.newsread.com...
>Sorry, I thought it was a 000-17, it is in fact a 00-17. Shop told me it was
>a 000, never bothered to check before now. Just liked the smaller size. It a
>beautiful guitar. Similar in size to the Gibson B-25 I had a few rears ago
>although nowhere near so loud. Much easier to play than any Martin I ever
>tried before,(most feel like a plank with string on). It is mahoganny, I
>think a re-issue of one they produced in the early 20th century
>
>Simon Arnold
Well, then, try Martin SP 80/20 Lights. :-)
If you are interested I could post a synopsis of the history of
the 00-17, as I did with the 000. I'd guess you aren't, though.
I had a friend who bought a 000-28EC a few years ago, a very
nice guitar. AFter the original strings died he put on his
usual favorites. After a couple of string change cycles, he
complained to me that there was less volume and speculated that
there was something fishy in the way the guitar was breaking in.
I asked him what strings he was using. I told him to try the
original ones. He did and found that the tone that attracted
him in the first place was there again. Hence my suggestion to
you. I've been through a similar situation to yours before.
Best of luck.
I use 12 - 54 Phos Bronze on my HD-28V (recently changed from 11 - 52
because it drives the guitar better).
John Pearse are the best, with either Dean Markley or D'Addario next.
All this is just an opinion of course.
The best thing is just to keep trying different brands and types until you
fing something the rings your chimes.
They don't really cost that much, and most of the strings that you try
will be good enough to leave on till they die.
MJRB
I got a batch of a dozen unpacketed 80/20 lights from one of the US
based string vendors - I think stringsdirect.com. Martin strings,
unlabelled and unpacketed, but they work superbly on small body guitars
where the 80/20 alloy really brings out the tone.
David
> "Simon Arnold" <simon.p...@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>
>>Sorry, I thought it was a 000-17, it is in fact a 00-17. Shop told me it was
>>a 000, never bothered to check before now. Just liked the smaller size. It a
>>beautiful guitar. Similar in size to the Gibson B-25 I had a few rears ago
>>although nowhere near so loud. Much easier to play than any Martin I ever
>>tried before,(most feel like a plank with string on). It is mahoganny, I
>>think a re-issue of one they produced in the early 20th century
>>
>>Simon Arnold
>
>
> Well, then, try Martin SP 80/20 Lights. :-)
>
> If you are interested I could post a synopsis of the history of
> the 00-17, as I did with the 000. I'd guess you aren't, though.
I once had a 1937 00-17. I got Larry Coryell to play it.
> also might try the
> John Pearce if I can locate some. If not my daughter live in the states
> (Baltimore) so she could send some ovefor me. Any one know of a supplier in
> that area for her to get them for me if none in the UK?
Any guitar shop around the Baltimore area would likely have them.
Appalachian Bluegrass in Catonsville (643 Frederick Rd.) would
definitely be good.
However, while I too like John Pearse's strings, the similar
Martin, D'Addario or GHS are close enough that they could let you
know if you're getting near the sound you want.
You're from Vaughn? I had an odd adventure in Vaughn about
twenty-five years ago.
>I once had a 1937 00-17. I got Larry Coryell to play it.
There *has* to be more to the story than that! Inquiring minds want to know
:-)
-----------------------------------------------------------
Paul
http://stringdancers.com/paulrk
That's a mahogany top, right?
I know lights and only lights for cedar as a general rule -- have never
owned a mahogany topped guitar though so I don't know if the additional
tension of mediums would be a concern.
Now I'll just wait for one or more of the resident experts to weigh in on
this. That way I can learn something.
I'm always interested.
>: If you are interested I could post a synopsis of the history of
>: the 00-17, as I did with the 000.
>
>I'm always interested.
OK. Some more Martin guitar history. The 00-17 was introduced
in 1906 with mahogany back and sides, ebony fretboard and bridge
and spruce top. It was a 12-fret design. It was Martin's first
guitar with a mahogany bodies. It was made through 1917. The
00-17 was re-introduced in 1930. This time, it was still a
12-fret guitar but it had an all-mahogany body and rosewood
fingerboard and bridge. In 1934 the 00-17 became a 14-fret
instrument (except for a very few 00-17H Hawaiian style guitars
in the 1930s). This is the same year that the OM-18 and OM-28
(introduced in 1929) became 000-18 and 000-28, respectively.
The 000 guitars were 12-fret models before. The 0-17, 0-18 and
00-18 also became 14-fretters. The 0-18 might have switched
over in 1933. Later that year, the 000-18 and 000-28 went to a
shorter scale length (24.9 vs. 25.4). I have a theory that the
24.9 was in reality 24 7/8 and 25.4 was 25 3/8, but that's my
own theory. The 00-17 was always a short-scale guitar, as far
as I know. The 00-17 continued to be produced through 1960. A
few more trickled out in the 1980s for some reason. Quite
recently, Martin came out with 00-17 models that were glossy and
bound versions of their popular and also recently-re-introduced
style 15 models. Martin's site lists a 14-fret version. I
might have seen a 12-fret version but I'm not too up on these
recent models.
This was taken mostly from my memory so all inaccuracies are
attributable to that. The information comes from a variety of
sources ranging from oral history to actually playing a fair
number of these instruments to the very interesting books by
Walter Carter, Mike Longworth, Jim Washburn and Richard
Johnston.
> Raf writes:
>
>
>>I once had a 1937 00-17. I got Larry Coryell to play it.
>
>
> There *has* to be more to the story than that! Inquiring minds want to know
> :-)
>
I think I've told this one before. Don't like to bore, but...
I was living in Nashville in about 1975 and I was having a party
for some of my co-workers, just beer and burgers on a grill on
the balcony. One of the gals came in late and said she had just
flown in from seeing her folks in Memphis. She had this strange
guy with her. He was wearing a green polyester suit, with a
green shirt and a green tie. Anyway, she said she met him on the
plane and he's really hungry, can we get him a burger.
I said, "Sure!"
He said, "Thanks, my name's Larry Coryell." I about dropped my
teeth, but nobody else at the party had any idea who he was. I
knew he had a gig at the Exit/In that night.
I didn't want to take unfair advantage, so I waited until he'd
had a burger or two and a beer and two, and I sidled up to him
and said, "I've got a 1937 Martin inside."
He said, "Wow, let me see it." I did and he played for a bit.
It was really a pretty tired old box. He asked if I had an
electric. I did have an old Les Paul, Jr. and I plugged it into
my Bassman.
Well, Larry started to cook and we had a girl from India there.
She began to sing some ragas. Larry started jamming with the
ragas and it was really getting good.
Time flew, and pretty soon it was 9:00 PM. Now Larry was
supposed to be onstage at the Exit at 9:00 PM, but he didn't want
to quit. About 9:45 he decided to go on the condition that the
whole party follow him up to the club to be his guests. If
you've seen the Exit/In, it won't hold an extra thirty or so
people, so he went and we stayed and continued to party.
Sure wish I could have gotten that evening on tape. All for the
price of a couple of burgers. Mind you, they were fresh and
handmade.
[snip]
:
: This was taken mostly from my memory so all inaccuracies are
: attributable to that. The information comes from a variety of
: sources ranging from oral history to actually playing a fair
: number of these instruments to the very interesting books by
: Walter Carter, Mike Longworth, Jim Washburn and Richard
: Johnston.
:
Thanks Al -- your ability to remember this kind of detail amazes me. My
brain has turned to a sieve lately.
>Thanks Al -- your ability to remember this kind of detail amazes me. My
>brain has turned to a sieve lately.
There seems to be little wrong with my long-term memory but my
short-term memory ain't what it used to be. I am particularly
bad now with song lyrics and people's names. Lyrics that make
it into my long-term memory are there for good, as far as I can
tell. Also names. Takes a lot of repetition in both cases.
eric johnson
ej...@uic.edu
In article <2t74j05vfghaajak2...@4ax.com>, ple...@nospam.us
says...
Thanks. Great tale! Carlton sounds like quite the character.
>
>Should be noted that at that time all 15's and 17's would have been "X"
>braced/dovetail neck guitars, Recent versions have hybrid top bracing
>and non dovetail neck joint.
>
>eric johnson
>ej...@uic.edu
That's what I mean about short-term memory. To me, all Martins
are X-braced, have dovetail neck joints, etc. I only recently
started remembering that Martins come with adjustable truss
rods. That's been going on since about 1985... :-)
Hey Raf, that's quite a story, makes the guitar even more special than it
already was.
MJRB
"If your guitar is stored in an air-conditioned space, you might be in good
shape. Air-conditioning acts as a de-humidifier during the summer months.
Where central air-conditioning is not an option, simply remove your guitar
and blow-dry the inside of the empty case for about 10 minutes every week or
two to reduce the moisture build-up that can adversly affect your
instrument."
Cheers,
Mike Pugh
"No Busking" <nobu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:kKGdnQKOqpw...@adelphia.com...
> > Ok, having had this guitar for just over a year I am starting
> > to get a litltle ticked off with it. When I bought it, the
> > sound was amazing, you know! warm, rounded, bassy
> > with a lot of mid tone and plenty of depth. Since then I
> > have struggled to find that same sound.
>
> Hi Simon,
>
> Lots of good advice on strings, setup, and such...but here's a guess for
> something else that might be going on...
>
> You bought a guitar made in the US, and you're keeping it in the UK, where
> the humidity is substantially higher. It's also summertime, when the
> humidity is peaking.
>
> My own experience (including a few years that I lived in the UK), is that
my
> instruments sound dead when they get *too* humidified. The difference is
> quite noticeable...they actually sound best when they're drier than they
> ought to be (but it's BAD PRACTICE to keep them too dry...it will damage
> them badly).
>
> Anyway - in the English spring and summer, it might be worth keeping
gelatin
> packets in the case to soak up some of the excess moisture. Don't overdo
> it, and make sure you check the guitar frequently for signs of dryness,
but
> it might help the tone. Best practice is to keep a hygrometer in the
case,
> but I've never been able to find an inexpensive one that's accurate enough
> to do me any good. If it's any help, the guitars are built in a
controlled
> environment with relative humidity of 45%-55%
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mike Pugh
>
>
>Thanks Wade, shall try the Martins though I haven't usually liked them in
>the past. Always sounded rubbish on previos instruments, also might try the
>John Pearce if I can locate some. If not my daughter live in the states
>(Baltimore) so she could send some ovefor me. Any one know of a supplier in
>that area for her to get them for me if none in the UK?
>
>Simon Arnold
O.K. here's a challenge. Somebody read all of Simon Arnold's posts and
come to the conclusion that the guy is not taking the piss.
His syntax is American, as are his spelling errors (previos - I've
never seen that one over here). He's giving up a UK net address but
he's not British.
This is a long thread - you're getting taken here, guys.
Pete (I may be wrong, and if I am, I will apologise)
Al confessed:
<< That's what I mean about short-term memory. To me, all Martins
are X-braced, >>
And they still are. The "Hybrid" refers to addition of the "A frame" brace
above the sound hole. Below the soundhole, a 000-17S is a scalloped X, with two
scalloped tone bars, a pattern more similar than not to an old-style dovetail
jointed 17, though it should be noted that Martin only made 26 000 -17 models,
all but one in 1952 and all but one14 fret models; both the dovetail and
mortise and tenon neck joints are glued-in, with very little difference in the
amount of glued surface.
One would be hard-pressed to compare old-style 000-17 with the modern 000-17S -
unless you're the person who owns the one 12 fret 000-17 made in 1911. Of
course, that particular guitar was mahogany over spruce, and built for gut
strings, rendering comparisons all but useless. Better to compare the 00
versions, which after 1930 are 14 fret models.
Here are some photos, the first link shows the neck joints, the second the
bracing patterns,
http://homepage.mac.com/om42k/Martin_neck_joints/PhotoAlbum24.html
Note the second, scalloped pattern photos and the last "Hybrid" pattern pics.
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/History/Martin/MartinBraces/martinbraces.html
HTH
Joe
Thanks, Joe. Good pics. I'm pretty funny; I like this sort of
detail.
Sadly, discontinued last year.
Joe
P.S no-ones getting taken
Simon Arnold
"Sleepy Fingers Jones" <persisten...@NOSPAM.yahoo.com> wrote in
message news:k987j05nqlsro5ime...@4ax.com...
> Ok, I am in the UK, Cambridge and am not taking the piss. I have a 00-17
> martin guitar serial number 857733. I did not come on here to waste yout
> time and if you think I am then I am sorry. I only wanted to know which are
> the best strings for my style of playing amd for the guitar I have. Please
> don't think I am not interested in this thread any longer if I do not reply,
> I am fascinated by the detail some of the people are able to post. If all
> you can do is accuse me of time wasting then I am sorry for yoy. As for my
> spelling, well- who cares so long as you can read and understand it.
> TRhanks to all who posted in this thread, I am getting my daughter in
> Baltimore to send over some John Pearce Medium guage strtings for me to
> try. Will let you know how I get on.
>
> P.S no-ones getting taken
John Pearse strings are also now available from UK guitarist/producer, Chris
Newman at his Old Bridge Music site (Chris who uses them himself and may
even be an endorser). The only place I've seen them so far.
They are at his website JP PBs 12-53 Lights and 13-56 Mediums at 7 UKP per
set.
<http://www.oldbridgemusic.com/acatalog/index.html?http%3A//www.oldbridgemus
ic.com/acatalog/catalogbody.html&CatalogBody>
I have no commercial interests there btw.
CR
> Ok, I am in the UK, Cambridge and am not taking the piss. I have a 00-17
> martin guitar serial number 857733. I did not come on here to waste yout
> time and if you think I am then I am sorry. I only wanted to know which are
> the best strings for my style of playing amd for the guitar I have. Please
> don't think I am not interested in this thread any longer if I do not reply,
> I am fascinated by the detail some of the people are able to post. If all
> you can do is accuse me of time wasting then I am sorry for yoy. As for my
> spelling, well- who cares so long as you can read and understand it.
> TRhanks to all who posted in this thread, I am getting my daughter in
> Baltimore to send over some John Pearce Medium guage strtings for me to
> try. Will let you know how I get on.
>
> P.S no-ones getting taken
>
> Simon Arnold
It hadn't occurred to me that you might be.
good luck with your search, it is all part of the game.
MJRB
"Simon Arnold" <simon.p...@btinternet.com> wrote in message
news:ch4o03$f39$1...@hercules.btinternet.com...
Psssssst!!!!! Pete!!!! This is the part where you said you'd apologize!
Get out from behind the bar (bring a pint with you, please) and log-on.
Sorry Simon...we've recently had issues with folks that weren't who they
seemed to be. Pete was speculating and happens to have been incorrect (he
also seems to have forgotten that Yanks DO live in the UK on occasion <g>).
At the moment, though, he's in the middle of taking over a pub in Bath, and
has probably forgotten to follow up. I feel pretty safe in saying no harm
intended, and that he would freely offer his apologies if he only
remembered.
BTW...I still think that excess humidity may be the issue with your
guitar....
Cheers,
Mike Pugh
Siimon Arnold.
P.S no apologies needed, no hurt feelings, just want to get my guitar
sounding the best it can
"No Busking" <nobu...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:Xsydnf1J57K...@adelphia.com...
If the humidity in your area is high enough that your guitar has
too much moisture in it, you will need more than silica gel packs
to keep it dry enough. Ideally, the humidity should be between
40% and 60%. If your Relative Humidity remains higher than that
in the house, you might want to think about a dehumidifier for
that room.
Ironically, many of us in the States have the opposite problem,
too little humidity.