Re: Plans or measurements for headless guitar
David Hajicek
"Ed Tootill" <ed.to...@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:bcd6c203-ab8b-4769...@l18g2000yql.googlegroups.com...
> Is there anywhere I can find plans, mainly measurements for bridge
> placement, etc, for a headless guitar? I did searches but have not
> been successful finding anything.
>
> Ed S.
The relationship between the nut and bridge does not change from that of a
guitar with a tuning head. So the physical location of the bridge does not
move.
Is this an electric or how do you plan to tune the strings?
Dave
Ed Tootill
> "Ed Tootill" <ed.toot...@gmail.com> wrote in message
It will be an electric guitar. I plan to use ABM parts. Is there a
book that lists the measurements? One idea is to buy a neck-through
blank from Carvin and add the rest of the body as wings. The plans or
measurement info don't need to be free.
Thanks,
Ed
David Hajicek
Thanks,
Ed
==========
The neck you choose will determine the scale length for the strings. I
don't know the popular electric scales off hand, but they are 25" give or
take a bit. If there is a guitar that you like the feel of, find out what
that is and try to copy that. Carvin lists the scale length for their
necks. That is the critical dimension. If you search on line, you should
be able to find the scale for guitars you like.
Carvin shows one through body neck kit with a 25.0" scale length. So
distance from the end of the fretboard to the center of the bridge
(adjustment) should be roughly the scale length plus about 2mm or 25.08" in
this case.
http://www.carvinguitars.com/products/single.php?product=NT6&cid=29
If you have a neck and don't know the scale, measure the distance from the
nut position (end of fretboard) to the 12th fret. Double that (= scale
length) and add about 2mm for compensation. That will get you in the
ballpark. Center the adjustment range of the bridge you want at that
dimension (scale length + 2mm) and you will be close enough to fine tune the
intonation and action.
Since in this case the strings are not tied to the bridge (goes to tuning
machine instead), the bridge can be positioned by hand to find the best
compromise for intonation before you drill mounting holes for the bridge.
I would do all this before you finish the guitar in case you have to fill a
hole and re-drill. With electric bridges, there is a fair amount of
adjustment possible, so the risks aren't too high.
Does that make sense?
Dave
Ed Tootill
>
> If you have a neck and don't know the scale, measure the distance from the
> nut position (end of fretboard) to the 12th fret. Double that (= scale
> length) and add about 2mm for compensation. That will get you in the
> ballpark. Center the adjustment range of the bridge you want at that
> dimension (scale length + 2mm) and you will be close enough to fine tune the
> intonation and action.
>
> Since in this case the strings are not tied to the bridge (goes to tuning
> machine instead), the bridge can be positioned by hand to find the best
> compromise for intonation before you drill mounting holes for the bridge.
>
> I would do all this before you finish the guitar in case you have to fill a
> hole and re-drill. With electric bridges, there is a fair amount of
> adjustment possible, so the risks aren't too high.
>
> Does that make sense?
>
>
> - Show quoted text -
Dave,
Yes, it makes perfect sense. It was a very clear description of the
process. I was over-thinking the bridge placement process.
Thank you very much.
Ed
Benoit Meulle-Stef
>
> If you have a neck and don't know the scale, measure the distance from the
> nut position (end of fretboard) to the 12th fret. Double that (= scale
> length) and add about 2mm for compensation. That will get you in the
> ballpark. Center the adjustment range of the bridge you want at that
> dimension (scale length + 2mm) and you will be close enough to fine tune the
> intonation and action.
>
> Since in this case the strings are not tied to the bridge (goes to tuning
> machine instead), the bridge can be positioned by hand to find the best
> compromise for intonation before you drill mounting holes for the bridge.
>
> I would do all this before you finish the guitar in case you have to fill a
> hole and re-drill. With electric bridges, there is a fair amount of
> adjustment possible, so the risks aren't too high.
>
> Does that make sense?
>
> Dave
Dear Friends:
I rather use 4mm to be shure. The only thing I see as a
problem is the ABM headpiece... Be careful Carvin neck have trussrods
adjustments at the HARD... You have to be sure you can put the
headpiece and stile use the trussrod.
Cheers
Ben
PS: ABM parts are great anyway I have been using them for 15 years...
David Hajicek
"Benoit Meulle-Stef" <b...@bmsguitars.com> wrote in message
news:9b23b68d-40cb-4ec3...@g2g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
============
Are we talking a 6 string or bass?
In any case, Ed can mount the "headpiece" and move the bridge (before
drilling holes) to the place where it works best.
Dave
Benoit Meulle-Stef
>
> Are we talking a 6 string or bass?
>
> In any case, Ed can mount the "headpiece" and move the bridge (before
> drilling holes) to the place where it works best.
>
> Dave
Dear Dave:
I usually use 4mm compensation for the guitars (electrics)
Actually 5.25 for the basses and 2.75 for the trebles. I noticed a lot
of new TOm are too narrow and don't have enough room for adjusting
harmonics so 4mm at the center is my security measure ;-)
Cheers
Benoit
Kevin Hall
Bens' numbers pretty much match my own observations on compensation for
intonation correction. For some reason folks seem reluctant to put the
saddles far enough back.
Something of which a new builder should be aware is the tendency for
different sources to express scale lengths in different ways without
explaining the difference. Some list the exact measurement from nut to 12
fret, doubled, as scale length and others give the 'corrected' scale
without labelling it as such. Some measure in the middle of the saddle,
and others ( most) give the actual length of the first string from nut to
compensated saddle. It's always best to take your own measurement rather
than relying on published data.
KH
David Hajicek
"Kevin Hall" <timbe...@webhart.net> wrote in message
news:rpadnWu-sLUuoIbT...@posted.vianet...
I stand corrected. I'd remembered the 2mm number and checked it against my
Taylor acoustic, so that number seemed right. But I just checked the
intonation and it is sharp! I hadn't really noticed that before.
Of course, the action height and all that adds into the mix just to
complicate things.
Dave
Benoit Meulle-Stef
> While thinking about this build project I found a Hohner G3T on Ebay, bought
> it and it just arrived at my door. It's not a Jazz guitar but what an
> ergonomic guitar. The cool thing about the pickup switching is I can have
> all the pickups on as 3 single coils or with the bridge pup in humbucker
> mode or any combination of the pups. I love the neck-through sound. Still
> messing with it but it is one cool guitar.
>
Too bad it's not actually a neck trough body but a poorly glued neck
(believe me after re-gluing about 10 of them...)
Benoit
Ed Tootill
Oh man! Hoodwinked again. :-) But I still really like the guitar.
I've been playing classical guitar and I forgot how nice the bigger
frets feel and play. Thanks for the info about the neck.
Ed
Benoit Meulle-Stef
No problem BUT 2 advices:
Don't drop it! And watch carefully the 2 pivots who hold the Vibrato,
they usually collapse under string tension pushing the vibrato against
the bridge PU... It can be fix but it's a pain in the Gibson to
repair...
Benoit
Ed Tootill
> No problem BUT 2 advices:
> Don't drop it! And watch carefully the 2 pivots who hold the Vibrato,
> they usually collapse under string tension pushing the vibrato against
> the bridge PU... It can be fix but it's a pain in the Gibson to
> repair...
>
> - Show quoted text -
Thanks. Are you talking about the Asian-made Steinberger guitars
owned by Gibson or the Hohner models? I'll assume your advice holds
for all the headless guitars, Steinberger and the clones.
I just adjusted the intonation. The previous owner pushed all the
saddles toward the nut. Even the open chords sounded sour. It took me
no time to intonate the G3T and it is in tune all the way up. I
ordered a string adaptor so I can use standard strings, so will redo
the setup again after I change the strings to my favorite D'Addario
set.
Ed T.
Benoit Meulle-Stef
Especialy th hohner model.
Ben