Stripping catalyzed poly?

[Tony Done]

Solvents or stripper won't touch this one. Is a blow torch OK, or should
I perhaps invest in a heat gun? I plan on leaving it as natural wood
with an oil finish if the timber looks OK.
--
Tony Done

http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456
http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

[JimLowther]

Is this an electric?

Best wishes,

Dr. Jim Lowther

[Tony Done]

Yes, an old Burny LP Jr copy.

[JimLowther]

On Feb 22, 7:10 pm, Tony Done <tonyd...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> On 23/02/2013 9:24 AM, JimLowther wrote:
>
> > On Feb 21, 1:33 am, Tony Done <tonyd...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> >> Solvents or stripper won't touch this one. Is a blow torch OK, or should
> >> I perhaps invest in a heat gun? I plan on leaving it as natural wood
> >> with an oil finish if the timber looks OK.
> >> --
> >> Tony Done
>

> >>http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456http://www.f...

>
> > Is this an electric?
>
> > Best wishes,
>
> > Dr. Jim Lowther
>
> Yes, an old Burny LP Jr copy.
>
> --
> Tony Done
>
> http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456http://www.flickr.com/photos/done_family/

I tried to strip the top of a sporano uke and decided it is easier
just to sand off the finish. Since an LP Jr copy would havea flat
surface that is what I would recommend. Otherwise, stripper alone
won't do it--you would have to have something abrasive, and you run
the risk of marring the wood.

I'm guessing you really don't like the present finish.

[David Hajicek]

"JimLowther" <JimLo...@aol.com> wrote in message
news:06b75033-bbd1-42f0...@n2g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...

___________

I haven't found a good solution to this problem. A heatgun can be made to
work, but you run the risk of charring the wood. Little temp difference
between stripping temp and charring. Also, any plastic binding could be
toast.

Mechanical removal methods are the remaining alternatives. Even here you
have to be careful as the wood is so much softer than the finish.

I wish there were a good answer as I see a number of older UV poly guitar
finishes that have gone cloudy or started to lift from the wood.

Dave

[Tony Done]

I might just spray something, eg satin black poly, over the current
finish to make it look presentable. The guitar hasn't got much value,
but I would like to tidy it up a bit.

[JimLowther]

On Feb 24, 11:34 pm, "David Hajicek" <haji...@skypoint.com> wrote:
> "JimLowther" <JimLowt...@aol.com> wrote in message

>
> news:06b75033-bbd1-42f0...@n2g2000yqg.googlegroups.com...
> On Feb 22, 7:10 pm, Tony Done <tonyd...@bigpond.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 23/02/2013 9:24 AM, JimLowther wrote:
>
> > > On Feb 21, 1:33 am, Tony Done <tonyd...@bigpond.com> wrote:
> > >> Solvents or stripper won't touch this one. Is a blow torch OK, or
> > >> should
> > >> I perhaps invest in a heat gun? I plan on leaving it as natural wood
> > >> with an oil finish if the timber looks OK.
> > >> --
> > >> Tony Done
>
> > >>http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456http://www.f...
>
> > > Is this an electric?
>
> > > Best wishes,
>
> > > Dr. Jim Lowther
>
> > Yes, an old Burny LP Jr copy.
>
> > --
> > Tony Done
>

> >http://www.soundclick.com/bands/default.cfm?bandID=784456http://www.f...

>
> I tried to strip the top of a sporano uke and decided it is easier
> just to sand off the finish.  Since an LP Jr copy would havea flat
> surface that is what I would recommend.  Otherwise, stripper alone
> won't do it--you would have to have something abrasive, and you run
> the risk of marring the wood.
>
> I'm guessing you really don't like the present finish.
>
> Best wishes,
>
> Dr. Jim Lowther
>
> ___________
>
> I haven't found a good solution to this problem.  A heatgun can be made to
> work, but you run the risk of charring the wood.  Little temp difference
> between stripping temp and charring.  Also, any plastic binding could be
> toast.
>
> Mechanical removal methods are the remaining alternatives.  Even here you
> have to be careful as the wood is so much softer than the finish.
>
> I wish there were a good answer as I see a number of older UV poly guitar
> finishes that have gone cloudy or started to lift from the wood.
>
> Dave

Lifting is definitely an issue. I have an instrument with a cracked
(slotted) headstock that would be an easy repair had not the poly
around the injury lifted from the wood. I have no clue how to repair
the finish.

[David Hajicek]

"JimLowther" <JimLo...@aol.com> wrote in message

news:054d3825-2761-4028...@k8g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...

____________

If the finish is otherwise intact and you can get at the lifted area, work
some low viscosity epoxy into the void area. Superglue won't penetrate far
enough, unfortunately.

I've drilled small holes so I could work the bubbles out. Only issue is
that initially, at least, the epoxy will be softer than the poly, so you
need to let it sit for several days to fully harden before buffing out. In
worse cases, I have had to do a light overcoat of spray lacquer (spray can
is fine), to give a surface which can be buffed out without witness lines.

Dave

[JimLowther]

I'll give it a try, although I really hate using epoxy. I never
thought you could spray lacquer over poly. That would probably help
get a better buff.

[dhaji...@gmail.com]

I usually just do that for a patch job. But it buffs better than the poly. You need to scuff the poly with something like 2000 sandpaper so there is some tooth, but not scratches that would be difficult to buff out of the poly.

Doing a whole face of a guitar would be easy. Just don't buff through or it could show. If you do the 2000 as a prep, then buffing through wouldn't be so bad.

Dave

[dhaji...@gmail.com]

On Tuesday, February 26, 2013 5:08:34 AM UTC-6, JimLowther wrote:

How did the repair job work out?

Dave