Antoniotsai on ebay
Twang
the inlay work is fantastic.
prices are great.
go crazy!
TWANG!
Steve
I've bought stuff from him. You're right, the stuff is beautiful. The
problem I've experienced with his stuff is this: the fingerboards etc
are made in a very humid climate, and they tend to warp when they get to
the drier conditions here in California. When a fingerboard arrives, I
immediately clamp it to a straight piece of 8/4 maple and leave it that
way for about 4 weeks as the wood acclimates to my shop. Problem solved.
Also check out Ebay ID = bruceweiart.
--Roseville Steve
Twang
It's pretty dry in minnesota right now. about 45% in the house though.
I haven't noticed a problem with any I have so far, but I'll certainly
keep an eye on them.
They do need a bit of fretwork, I'll say that.
Tuners aren't too hot either.
But boy.. what inlay!
Warren
experienced, mine warped so badly they broke some of the pearl. I live
in Mississippi, though...I tell people that "it's hot here, but it's a
wet heat". :)
For the price, the quality is okay. But I don't think it is
presentation quality, at least not what I bought.
It was also hard for me to find something that worked, visually. I find
some of the artwork too over the top. Typically, I think the inlay
should match up to the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th and 12th frets but the ones
I've seen don't usually have any rhyme or reason.
Warren
Twang
Warren wrote:
> I've bought a couple of pieces from the eBay'ers. As Roseville Steve
> experienced, mine warped so badly they broke some of the pearl. I live
> in Mississippi, though...I tell people that "it's hot here, but it's a
> wet heat". :)
>
> For the price, the quality is okay. But I don't think it is
> presentation quality, at least not what I bought.
>
> It was also hard for me to find something that worked, visually. I find
> some of the artwork too over the top. Typically, I think the inlay
> should match up to the 3rd, 5th, 7th, 9th and 12th frets but the ones
> I've seen don't usually have any rhyme or reason.
>
> Warren
Warren.
I have let's see.. four strats and two teles here from Antoniotsai.
I am going to do complete reviews in harmony central, when time
permits.
For now I offer this.
Black strat set up right out of the box, had it for about a month now.
A couple of high frets, no worse than one would find pulling any five
to seven hundred dollar guitar off the rack nearly anywhere.
Sunburst strat no 1 the same.
Sunburst Strat no 2 needed a couple of days in my home to settle down,
but also, plays nice.
I let them stay in the case, I put in some moisture, keep them in a
humidity controlled room, increase the humidity to about 55% for these
guitars in that room.
It's dry here compared to there.. after a week or so, I begin to reduce
the humidity gradually.
I adjust them gently and slowly, but no problems so far at all.
The tuners work very well. One set a tad stiff, the other feeling like
Grovers, they all hold tune.
Same with the teles.
I had enough confidence from buying one or two per week to buy more.
Eventually buying some at 'buy it now' prices so I would be sure to get
those I found special.
These come with no hardware, just neck and body.
The inlays vary a great deal in style and the subject matter varies and
is definatley eastern mentality.
parrots.. turtles.. dragons.. some kind of dramatic fighting bird...
elaborate flowers..
sunrise headstocks..
The neck inlays .. the flying eagle is one of my favorites. Yes, it is
true that you have to rely on the side position markers as the eagle
takes up the majority of the fingerboard.
These are not guitar necks for amatuers, especially grumpy ones.
If the lights are dim you may lose your place!
On the other hand, who would want the lights dim when he's playing an
Antoniotsai?
The trem bridge screws are not tight. On any of them. The neck screws
have different degrees of tightness. Check all screws on these guitars.
You don't do that with every guitar? yer silly.
The 'worst' inlays have had the same problem. The body inlays are
sometimes not quite fully smooth. they dip a bit at wing tip.. or going
over a curve of the body..
You can feel it, but you can't really see it unless you tilt the guitar
in the light.
that didn't bother me. I rather expected that he's selling the not so
perfect items on ebay.. that's the low price.. and selling his best
stuff locally, for premium price and best enhancement of his reputation
where he lives.
Business, is business.
I find the strat pickups have the pole pieces too high on the g string,
and that exacerbates the low pole piece on the b string.
Otherwise the hardware is ok.. though you find one out of three may
have a tiny scratch somewhere.
The truss rods work smoothly and well. Not a single problem.
The weight of the guitars is excellent. No logs, no plywood.
Alder, mahogany, tiger/quilted maple tops, solid once piece ash or
alder.. sometimes you get two pieces..
I have one with three, a tele.. black translucent finish tiger maple
top.. who cares?
I don't. hellova little guitar.
Necks from american companys cost 150.00 and up.. with dots.
Antoniotsais guitars have hundreds of pieces of abalone forming
fantastic looking, perfectly smooth neck adornments..
Sure you have to be fairly good at repair and adjustment to get them
set up right.
Same as it ever was.
I've gotten a guitar with a ding in the back.. a scrape on the top..
Antoniotsais folk answered me quickly.. and we arrived at a fair
settlement and I have no complaint.
There is no doubt that some of the inlay work may be 'over the top' to
some. I, for one, don't like the rocket ship design on some of them.
It's an ok idea, but it's too large and looks too gross.
I also am not crazy about one of the headstock designs.. which has
stars and comets.. looks a bit amatuerish.
On the other hand.. I've got a solid ash translucsent finish tele with
a dragon on that makes me cream.
And a blue tele, solid ash, with flowers that's so damn pretty you can
hardly believe it.
The devil bat neck.. that's what I call it, is to die for.. severely
aggressive!
There is no doubt a difference between what the Asian mind percieves as
appropriate and beautiful, both in style and degree, and the typical
american mind.
They aren't for everybody.
But well made.. playable.. beautiful.. sturdy.. very good basic sound..
they hit the spot for me, easily.
All of my Antoniotsais will recieve upgrades.. theyare worth it.
They'll get extreme care to choice of material and installation.. I'll
spend extra time on set ups.. and there's no way in hell I'll sell them
'cheap'.
The gig bags are excellent. Even the backstraps zip into twin pouches
on the back so that you don't have them dangling unless you want to use
them.
the headstock is held inside a special velcro pouch inside the bag for
extra protection.
exterior double pouches at headstock and body. Embroidered gold A on
the bags, too.
Excellent double stitching... tough handles.. and plenty of them..
leather attachment plates for handles..
easily a sixty dollar bag.
My firm belief is that people drag them out of the box, tune and go..
an especially bad thing to do with the acoustics. But not a smart thing
with any electric either.
How do you feel after a journer from china to america?
chipper and ready to rock? or maybe a little jet lag..
The paint is nice.. sometimes a tad off here and there.. maybe some
haze.. but again, I didn't expec these to be his very best work.
Some however, are flawless. There's just nothing I can find that isn't
right.
I'd buy either at the prices they are selling for, and have, and will
continue.
I'd put Antoniotsais teles and strats right next to matching wood
fenders.. and ask you.. why wouldn't a person pay the same money for
that fantastic inlay work when the rest of the guitar is equal or
better in every case?
I like these guitars. I like the finishes.. the colors are different
than here.. (yet the sunburst is classic, the black deep and shiny)
They play well.. really well, when you get them set up. The tele pots
are very sensitive.. moreso than the strats.
The tele pickups are nearly as good sounding as the Kent Armstrongs I
was using, and have just about the same output.
He's got a few left. So go ahead and bid against me. I'm willing to
pay, however, so, have your credit card handy.
two hundred and fifty bucks for a 335 style archtop with a complete
spider and web on the body... and the back.. and neck and headstock
inlays.
transparent red. solid maple. gold hardware
with hard case.
You pay six hundred dollars for an epiphone sheraton, I have one, it's
one of my fave guitars, with laminated maple, sure it's nice.. pretty
as hell.. but Antoniotsai outdoes it for inlays, and woods and finish.
for less money.
yep. it's probably stupid of me to say all this.. and wind up paying
more for them.
But I dont care because I really have respect for the work and the
people who built them.
harmony central complete reviews coming soon.
TWANG!
ps
I still love fenders. and epiphones. don't get me wrong. They aren't
bad, or less good..
some people don't really like dramatic inlays.. some people need that
five year warranty, that lifetime warranty.
some people need the headstock label.
I'm sorry Antoniotsai and others copy fenders so accurately. I'd prefer
they made some modifications to set themselves apart. It would prevent
phonies.. (If I put a fender neck on the black Antoniotsai strat..
noone would ever know by looking or playing it.)
But, good guitars. I'll say yes, and vouch for the electric solid bodys.
to.vi...@gmail.com
I bought a strat copy from Antoniotsai (inlaidartist or "tony") for
$320.00 or so. Beautiful inlay (abalone and mop) of mountains, stars
and planets on fretboard.
Not meaning to rain on your parade Twang, but I have some significant
issues with it:
Frets above the 8th are not spaced accurately, bugs me.
One fret 10th I think (the guitar is at work) is actually bent downward
at the lower end (under the high e string), this *really* bugs me.
Some frets are not finished smoothly (quite rough and some scored and
flat, actually),
Two small pieces of inlay are missing (one a little planet or star, one
a small piece of a mountain). These leave a shallow low place on the
fretboard.
One inlay piece actually sticking up at one end slightly from being
pushed down at the other end under a fret. The glue must have set it
in place like that. A high e or b string bend will catch on it.
The body finish is nice, it has tobacco burst on laminated figured
maple. But, where the body wood (alder I believe) is joined together
underneath the lamination, you notice a ridge i.e. the joint is not
even and smooth. You have to look at it tilted in the light to notice
this, but it is quite apparent, you don't have to look hard.
A little crack on the body on the side at the neck joint (where the
wood narrows to a point).
There was a thin wood shim under the neck at the joint.
I think the pickups (from Korea I was told) sound quite well.
The body issue I can tolerate, but the poor quality fretwork is a big
disappointment.
No shielding in the body pickup and electronic cavities.
Apart from these issues this guitar has potential, and I would like to
fix it up. I would appreciate any advice/recommendations on doing the
refretting myself. I guess I should ask this question again in a new
thread.
Regards to all,
Vic
Steve
>
> Frets above the 8th are not spaced accurately, bugs me.
>
I bought two fretted fingerboards from another Ebay seller named Bruce
Wei (I think he's in Vietnam). The inlay work was beautiful - better
than Antonio Tsai's IMHO, but they had the same issue with frets being
inaccurately spaced. I sent him an email describing the problem, and
even sent him measurements for all fret positions (the two fingerboards
had different spacing!). He agreed to a refund, but I had him make me a
bass fingerboard with NO frets and no slots instead - I'll cut those
myself, thank you. He had me return the defective fingerboards. All in
all I was happy with the transaction, so I posted positive feedback for him.
--Steve
Twang
to.vi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hi,
> I bought a strat copy from Antoniotsai (inlaidartist or "tony") for
> $320.00 or so. Beautiful inlay (abalone and mop) of mountains, stars
> and planets on fretboard.
>
> Not meaning to rain on your parade Twang, but I have some significant
> issues with it:
Okey dokey.
>
> Frets above the 8th are not spaced accurately, bugs me.
I've not run into a problem like that at all.
> One fret 10th I think (the guitar is at work) is actually bent downward
> at the lower end (under the high e string), this *really* bugs me.
I don't fully understand you.
> Some frets are not finished smoothly (quite rough and some scored and
> flat, actually),
Yes. His auction pieces seem to largley need minor fret work.
It seems to vary. One guy does a bad job of crowning... another guy
does a bad job of polishing.
Sometimes fret ends are too prominent.
> Two small pieces of inlay are missing (one a little planet or star, one
> a small piece of a mountain). These leave a shallow low place on the
> fretboard.
All my pieces of inlay on fingerboards and headstocks have been dead
perfect.
The only quibbles I have about inlay has been on the bodys.
These are not perfectly flat on some pieces.
You have to feel it to know it though.
> One inlay piece actually sticking up at one end slightly from being
> pushed down at the other end under a fret. The glue must have set it
> in place like that. A high e or b string bend will catch on it.
I rather believe he's selling us his seconds. I figured that from the
first guitar.. and I pay gladly because I've been happy with all of
mine.
> The body finish is nice, it has tobacco burst on laminated figured
> maple. But, where the body wood (alder I believe) is joined together
> underneath the lamination, you notice a ridge i.e. the joint is not
> even and smooth. You have to look at it tilted in the light to notice
> this, but it is quite apparent, you don't have to look hard.
I have solid color guitars, sunbursts and a tiger maple transparent
finish tele..
my problems are dings and dents. two have those, one pretty nasty
really.
and finish flaws like minor scrapes or not quite flat clear coat.
you can either fix them or you can't. so far I've got only one that's a
bit beyond my skill.
> A little crack on the body on the side at the neck joint (where the
> wood narrows to a point).
I've not had that, yet.
> There was a thin wood shim under the neck at the joint.
I had one which had a shim in it. I took it out and replaced it with a
better shim. *s*
> I think the pickups (from Korea I was told) sound quite well.
Yes. the teles are very nice, I think. the strats need to really be set
up right to not have string to string volume disparity.
> The body issue I can tolerate, but the poor quality fretwork is a big
> disappointment.
I do fretwork on everything I've ever bought except my taylor.
So.. I guess I expect it.
But I'll give you this.. they are not busting their quality control
departments ass when it comes to these ebay guitars.
> No shielding in the body pickup and electronic cavities.
I see a little piece of foil on some..
No biggee for me, because I sheild paint all my guitars and use foil on
pickups.
> Apart from these issues this guitar has potential, and I would like to
> fix it up. I would appreciate any advice/recommendations on doing the
> refretting myself. I guess I should ask this question again in a new
> thread.
sound like you need a crown and polish..
I redo every neck I get, from him or anyone else.. his necks typically
need more work than sometimes even a saga.. they do surprisingly well,
typically having only a crappy finish to the frets and the odd high
fret.
Tony seems to be not finishing these pieces completely.. anything goes
wrong they rush it through.
and then they discount it and let the buyer bid and beware.
I feel comfortable with this because he's not let me down in any way
that leaped beyond my skills.
I do feel that I know they have potential, because I have, for one
example, a black strat with eagle inlay board that plays fantastically.
dead stock right now except for grovers.. I'll build that into a real
player for sure.
It already sounds very competitive, and plays great.. with a few custom
parts it will have the sound it's looks deserve.
I'll be trying to sell mine after they are fixed up.
The thing is risk. You have to pretty much take what you get, because
he is after all. all the way in Taiwan.
He could screw you, I suppose, but then he'd have ebay complaint
process to deal with, and lose reputation.
He's been there five years.. I have heard some complaints on his
acoustics that were pretty serious and I've avoided those so far.
TWANG!
Twang
I'm keeping my eye on his stuff, too. *S*
TWANG!
to.vi...@gmail.com
Good detailed reviews like yours are very helpful. I'm going to have a
go at fixing mine. I've been wanting to learn how to do fretwork
anyway. That's why I've been checking out this newsgroup. Lot's of
good info in the archives, and helpful people for sure.
Do you have any thoughts on finishing over inlaid fretboard with a
clear marine epoxy, or is it a crazy idea?
Vic
Twang
to.vi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Thanks Twang,
> Good detailed reviews like yours are very helpful. I'm going to have a
> go at fixing mine. I've been wanting to learn how to do fretwork
> anyway. That's why I've been checking out this newsgroup. Lot's of
> good info in the archives, and helpful people for sure.
> Do you have any thoughts on finishing over inlaid fretboard with a
> clear marine epoxy, or is it a crazy idea?
> Vic
My pleasure.
Just read a lot, take your time, and quit if you start feeling funky
and come back later.
I usually am working on several guitars at once, just so I don't ever
burn out on one kind of work.
I've never finished a fretboard and I've not given it a lot of thought.
I don't think you'd need anything as drastic as epoxy, for sure.
I think a sanding sealer would do the job.
I'm assuming you're worried about inlays coming up?
the problem is, I dont do inlay work... so I'm not even sure what Tony
uses to glue them down.
I do know that no matter what he uses, having the surfaces clean,
levelled correctly, clamping the inlay tightly to fit and getting the
glue spread evenly are where most problems can come from.
For that reason, I would think that getting a problem piece off and
then getting it on right would be a better solution that covering it
over and hoping that keeps it on.
My flying eagle inlay necks have no problems at all.. very smooth. same
with the dragons and lions and flowers, etc..
the bodys are a different matter.. they can and do have some not so
smooth areas, but there's enough paint to keep anything from snagging,
and they still look fine, so I haven't done anything to them.
I'm waiting for some shell to be shipped to me, and I'll be trying my
hand at modest inlay work soon.. so I'll know better then what the
exact problems of getting this done right are. For now all I can offer
is the old chinese idea.. avoid the small mistake at the beginning!
and that means look for that mistake first.. rather than try to make up
for it on the other end.
epoxy would be pretty thick.. and god knows what refretting woud be
like after that!
I am sure I would be trying find out how to remove the inlay piece,
and get it on right.
hope that helps...
TWANG!
to.vi...@gmail.com
Thanks, yes that's exactly what I was thinking-sealing the inlay down.
I hadn't figured out what to do with the piece thats sticking up, but
agree; getting it off without breaking it and getting it down flat
would be my goal. Maybe some kind of solvent to break down the glue,
or heat would do the trick. The inlay pieces are VERY thin, from
looking at the places where a couple came off. Solvent shouldn't hurt
the abalone or MOP, or the rosewood.
Thanks,
Vic
Twang
to.vi...@gmail.com wrote:
> Twang,
> Thanks, yes that's exactly what I was thinking-sealing the inlay down.
> I hadn't figured out what to do with the piece thats sticking up, but
> agree; getting it off without breaking it and getting it down flat
> would be my goal. Maybe some kind of solvent to break down the glue,
> or heat would do the trick. The inlay pieces are VERY thin, from
> looking at the places where a couple came off. Solvent shouldn't hurt
> the abalone or MOP, or the rosewood.
> Thanks,
> Vic
I'm not sure about heat.
That's how to get a fingerboard off.. but again.. I don't know what
glue is used on
inlays.
I'm gonna do some looking around.. you've got me interested now. *S*
TWANG!