About sizing-filler (sealer) for violin woods.
Jean Parent
Hi
I did try few sealer, including white shellac, but I find them a bit to
hard wen it's dry, I would like most to find a soft sealer who will be,
and stay more flexible and more elastic than the shellac.
I did think of using egg white, but it's become to hard like the shellac,
but what could I put in the egg white to make it more flexible and more
elastic, but without a loss of it's adhesive quality ?
Some kind of oil maby ?
What kind ?
How much of it ?
Or ?
Any recipe of violin woods sealer using egg ?
There was a post from Gaetan Mailloux, about using gelatin as a sealer.
Is that a good one, do it will stay flexible ?
Here's the recipe that he post;
Thank, Jean
>Gaetan Mailloux (ba...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA) writes:
>......
...........
> Or here a recipe of a gelatin sealer;
>
> Put one inch of cold water in glass open bottle.
>
> put in that water, one tea spoon of gelatin powder and mix well.
>
> Heat it in a water-bath at medium heat, until it lo> And wen it still hot, paint the violin with that liquid. It better to done
> it in a warm place.
>
> After it's dry, sand the wood a bit with a fine sand paper.
>
> So, what do you think of that recipe ?
>
John Ellsworth
In rec.music.makers.builders Jean Parent <bd...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:
: Hi
: I did try few sealer, including white shellac, but I find them a bit to
: hard wen it's dry, I would like most to find a soft sealer who will be,
: and stay more flexible and more elastic than the shellac.
: Some kind of oil maby ?
: What kind ?
: How much of it ?
In his book titled "Violin Varnish", published in 1946, Joseph Michelman
suggests the use of raw linseed oil as a filler. He suggests applying as
much oil as can be absorbed at one time. and then setting it to dry in a
cabinet with plenty of ultraviolet (either sunlight or lamps). With the
interior temperature reaching 150F the oil dried in 4 days.
I haven't tried it yet, but plan to in use this approach as an experiment
this summer.
John.
ETX-T-TWO Liden Fredrik
In article <5lfaki$a6p$1...@blackice.winternet.com>, John Ellsworth <j...@parka.winternet.com> writes:
> In his book titled "Violin Varnish", published in 1946, Joseph Michelman
> suggests the use of raw linseed oil as a filler. He suggests applying as
> much oil as can be absorbed at one time. and then setting it to dry in a
> cabinet with plenty of ultraviolet (either sunlight or lamps). With the
> interior temperature reaching 150F the oil dried in 4 days.
>
> I haven't tried it yet, but plan to in use this approach as an experiment
> this summer.
>
> John.
Don't do it John!
It's a sure way to destroy the wood for the top of the violin. It
becomes much too hard after the linseed oil treatment (it may take
up to a year before you start noticing it, but it will become worse
and worse...).
The current ideas about the sealer used by the Cremonese masters point
to the following ingredients: Calcium, silicon, chlorine, aluminium,
sulphur, iron, magnesium, phorphorus, sodium (in order of volume).
This analysis was Barlowe spectra 18 of sample 21 Gofriller cello.
It seems that the ground can be reproduced fairly well using a 50% potassium
silicate solution (wipe this on the wood) and then rag on a layer of
a mixture of 45 grms Calcium Lactate, 10 grms Alum, 3 grms Manganese
Sulphate, 3 grms Titanium oxide, 5 grms Ferric oxide with clorinated water.
This is what David Rubio uses as a ground for his violins (with some small
modifications each time). One can add Mica (fine glimmer) as well, for
a better appearance.
Egg white is a surprisingly good wood sealer. I have used it myself in
combination with a varnish based on Dragon Blood and Oil of Spike (with
small amounts of Venetian turpentine and siccative as drier). It is
however difficult to seal the wood of the top plate, especially if it
has a lot of run out. In this case the use of casein has been recommended to
me (can be bought a Kremer). One mixes the casein with a e.g. NaOH and brushes
it on the wood (I have not done this myself... yet).
I hope this suggestions are enough to keep you away from using linseed oil on
your wood. It can however be used for the neck with no bad effects (the parts
that are not varnished).
Good Luck!
Fredrik Liden, Stockholm, Sweden
fri...@ix.netcom.com
John Ellsworth wrote:
>...
>
> In his book titled "Violin Varnish", published in 1946, Joseph Michelman
> suggests the use of raw linseed oil as a filler. He suggests applying as
> much oil as can be absorbed at one time. and then setting it to dry in a
> cabinet with plenty of ultraviolet (either sunlight or lamps). With the
> interior temperature reaching 150F the oil dried in 4 days.
>
> I haven't tried it yet, but plan to in use this approach as an experiment
> this summer.
>
Let me know how it works out. The first fiddle I ever made I did this
way, and to me even after eight years it still seems sort of soggy.
Where stress is high the wood seems to have given out. Of course, it's
a first fiddle, but the wood seems kind of weak all over anyway.
MAF
Thomas Bailey
In article <5lel7k$q...@freenet-news.carleton.ca>,
bd...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA says...
> Any recipe of violin woods sealer using egg ?
>
>
author) that works well for me. Two parts water, one part
walnut oil( can find at health food store), and one part egg
white. Shake well and brush on two coats. I follow with oil
based pore filler, then color coats. This gives a great seal
which lets the natural beauty of the wood come through.
--
Charlottesville, Va
jako...@wineasy.se
On 15 May 1997 15:37:54 GMT, John Ellsworth <j...@parka.winternet.com>
wrote:
>In rec.music.makers.builders Jean Parent <bd...@FreeNet.Carleton.CA> wrote:
>
>: Hi
>
>: I did try few sealer, including white shellac, but I find them a bit to
>: hard wen it's dry, I would like most to find a soft sealer who will be,
>: and stay more flexible and more elastic than the shellac.
>
>: Some kind of oil maby ?
>
>: What kind ?
>
>: How much of it ?
>
>In his book titled "Violin Varnish", published in 1946, Joseph Michelman
>suggests the use of raw linseed oil as a filler. He suggests applying as
>much oil as can be absorbed at one time. and then setting it to dry in a
>cabinet with plenty of ultraviolet (either sunlight or lamps). With the
>interior temperature reaching 150F the oil dried in 4 days.
>
>I haven't tried it yet, but plan to in use this approach as an experiment
>this summer.
>
>John.
>
*
*
Soaking the wood with linseed oil can not be recommended. It is a
widely accepted truth that the tone of the instrument detoriates with
time. It takes several years for the linseed oil to oxidize/polymerize
to its final state, and it gets HARD.
The rule is: Don´t let anything into the wood that is, or gets harder
than the wood itself.
Tommy Jakobsson
Violin Maker