Your thoughts, please.
Dave Hajicek
I have some parchment paper that came in a package of several paster
colors, including a pale tan color. It's 24lb paper, and it makes nice
elegant labels for the guitar. Here's an example:
http://www.cyrguitars.com/AG12_Completed_02S.JPG
--Steve in Roseville
Thanks. I can get some 20lb Vellum that should work.
That is some guitar. Amazing top. It looks very nice.
Dave Hajicek
>
> That is some guitar. Amazing top. It looks very nice.
>
> Dave Hajicek
>
>
That top is somethin' else, isn't it? The guitar has great tone and
wonderful bottom-end, although I had to change out the .047" low string
for a .056" to properly drive to top. The guitar has a set of John
Pearse light guage PB strings, and is tuned down 2 half-steps. I'm very
happy with except it needs a compensated saddle desperately. Just
haven't gotten around to making one for it. :-(
--Steve in Roseville
How do you make your labels? I hand-letter mine but I expect you could
color copy / ink jet yours and follow my methods. I use 20# 100% cotton
bond (sold as thesis bond in college towns). I've also found that 20#
copier paper is nearly as good, though a bit tougher to work with wet
since it has shorter fibers. I tried 16# at one point, but it's too
flimsy when wet.
One I have the label made, I saturate it with finish and paint it down
to the inside of my drums. See
http://balkantunes.org/TupansEtc/drums.html
towards the bottom of the page (jump to "label" from the top). I
occasionally get a little ink smear at first, but that disappears with
stroking out. Probably if I used solvent based varnish that wouldn't be
a problem, but in my shop it would also be hard on the user.
YMMV of course, but I've found this method very forgiving (you can even
repair a torn label by judicious manipulation with your brush while it
is wet ;-).
Jim
I have been signing the inside of the top in pencil. So I have no label as
yet. Alternately I could burn "Hajicek Guitars" into the back strip under
the sound hole. Both traditional approaches.
I would use an inkjet design which I would sign and date by hand. I would
probably give it a very dry coating of lacquer (spray) prior to the above to
prevent smearing or bleeding with moisture.
That's the plan, anyway.
Dave